Is anything? It is certainly tomato proof. Here's a "stormproof" rood edge, as designed in the Fortified Roof guidelines: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-IAbIVkWVO4o.htmlsi=H2-Lx5mW6axABhUN
Steve Kerxhalli. You said it buddy. I myself don’t use drip flashing. I overhang SBS Deckbase 1 1/2” past fascia run starter strip flush with that. That system has been proven for 150 years. Deckbase is minimum code in Alberta.
nice video. thanks. I prefer to ice and water shield my entire roof so there's no issue of any water getting in. I live in a very cold and snowy climate with a roof pitch of 5/12. So to me the extra "insurance" is worth it. thanks again.
Thanks for this! Like others, am going with a full membrane on my roof to protect from Hurricanes. It will simply never, ever leak, but of course the cost will be a bit higher. Only concern is re-roofing 25 years from now, as the membrane will be one with the decking, but will cross that bridge when I get there =)
Drip firsts no matter what than membrane period I learned this when I 16 years old a wise older carpenter showed this application done it this way all my life never a problem there is a reason why drip edge is first period
Sorry Riley, You have no idea of what you are talking about when it comes to dealing with climate regions with heavy snow and prolonged cold. I have been installing since 1971 and I'm 2nd generation roofing contractor. I started before the ice shield was made and that material was a God send. The only way is to install ice shield over the gutter board 3". Drip edge was made for 2 reasons. The first is to cover rake and gutter metal fascia and second is to reinforce starter and 1st course shingles from drooping down into gutters .
Sshouldn't you have put on two more layers on because it looks like you didn't go pass the interior wall that jogs in toward the end of the video . Does the membrane have to go a few feet pass ALL interior walls ?
I got here looking to confirm it wouldn't be entirely crazy to run self-adhesive membrane underlayment on eaves either fully over fascia, to the bottom/narrow edge, or at least to the elevation where the gutter will terminate. The only other (forum) link, c. 2011, that I've gone through is about evenly split between drip-edge-first and drip-edge-after membrane, but they're arguing over ice-damming which isn't a concern so far in Honolulu, where I am. We get crappy lumber shipped here, so in part I'd do this to cover knots and avoid ongoing paint-related maintenance for any exposed wood. I like the idea that the membrane would seal against the fasteners used by the gutter-hanger when that time comes, too. So - any big reasons NOT to fully wrap the fascia? (I don't honestly have a plan to cover it against UV damage, but that could be just paint, maybe factory-coated flashing that would run behind the gutter...)
Folding the peel and stick over the top of the fascia will keep wind-blown rain from creeping in between the shingles and the roof sheathing. It also is a great backup against ice dams, which, as you say isn't t a problem yet in Honolulu. As for covering the fascia entirely-Ummm, wouldn't that be sort of ugly? Maybe try synthetic lumber, like KLEER, Boral, or AZEK?
@@ProTradeCraft I just experimented with this a couple of days ago - mixed results. The Owens-Corning underlayment (pale green fleecy exposed surface) didn't seem particularly sticky, and I realized my rollers were miles away after I'd gotten into the experiment, so getting the stuff to stick took forever. Would the specified primer have improved that? I've not used one previously while working with other underlayments - but the other factor was that I got into this in the late afternoon, after things had cooled off somewhat, so surfaces were probably in the mid-seventy degree range. Previously-used stuff (Titanium and another product I can't recall) stuck so well that I was much more paranoid about getting it down in the wrong location. I'd not seen the fleecy surface of this stuff before getting into this (thought it was a basic PE woven surface that would look just "white" or off-white from the ground) so no, it's not a great option for either painting or leaving exposed. I'm guessing the fleeced surface is one, or maybe THE approach to giving the material a high-temp rating for use under a tile or metal roof? I'm now thinking I'll skin over the surface with a painted-aluminum or steel flashing, but perhaps there's a common integrated method of doing this with gutters - though at present I'm not sure I will use gutters on all eaves due to proximity of trees/leafy debris to two sides of the house. Anyway, having not really been pleased with this application, for now I just made things temporarily rain-tight by replacing the synthetic felt, which had been up there far beyond its expected lifespan.
Would you mind doing a little video treatise on the rake edge of a hot roof (hot roof includes ventilation strategy above deepest roof deck layer)? So to clarify the detail from interior to exterior would be: closed cell spray foam, roof decking, peel and stick membrane (or zip w/ liquid flash), 2-3 layers of XPS foam seams staggered, furring strips, 2nd roof deck layer, 2 layers of tar paper, shingles, sky. How do you cover the rake edge of a hot roof is basically my question. Thanks
Seen one video similar to this one. They wrap the membrane down the fascia. Then drip. Then felt overlapping drip and membrane so shingles won’t stick to the membrane. That membrane is on for life. Your stuck with it.
untill someone proves to me that drip edge butted leaks and or causes leaks i think the look of overlaped drip edge is the shits. ugly and embarrassing. Butt those drips together and get a seamless look !!
