Ford 2.7L EcoBoost Engine - Specs, Problems & Reliability 

Seems like you have had good luck with your truck. I’m in the market for a used truck and stumbled across a 2016 with the 2.7 at 160k miles. From what I’ve been seeing these 2.7’s are more reliable than the 3.5’s and it’s intrigued me into seriously considering ones. What’s your thoughts on buying a used one at that many miles for around $20k?

@@treethompson Strap in, you’re asking a big question involving a lot of money, and there is not going to be a bumper sticker sized answer. I’m not sure how much experience you have with mechanical things. I cut my teeth rebuilding go kart and motorcycle engines as a kid so most of this is second nature to me. Most people reading this are going to be in one or two categories: they’re either going to roll their eyes and say well of course, Captain obvious. That, or it’s all going to sound like I’m talking in a foreign language. $20,000 is a pile of money, and honestly the best thing you could do for yourself is to have a reputable shop check the vehicle out before any cash changes hands. If the seller isn’t willing to let you do that then maybe it’s time to find a different seller. If you can find a shop like The Car Wizard’s place in Kansas, that’s the kind of place you want to use. Back in the 80s when I first started playing around with fast cars my take on turbochargers was “twice as fast, half as long” I was all about big block V8 engines. And the turbo systems they had on cars back then were pretty awful. They didn’t even start using water cooled housings until the end of the 1980s, so shutting down your engine immediately after a long hard pull might just destroy the bearings in your turbo. That was just one of the issues you might’ve had to put up with back then. It’s a completely different world today. The oil is better. The metallurgy in the engine is better. The fuel delivery systems are far more advanced. But you still have to maintain the engine, and the biggest thing is to ignore the oil change interval that the computer suggests and just change it every 5000 miles or six months. It’s the cheapest insurance you will ever buy. Oil is like religion, so I’m not going to get into brand X Y Z except to say if the oil meets the very latest API service classifications for direct injection turbo charged gasoline engines it’s probably going to be a synthetic and if you keep it clean, you’ll be fine. With any rig at that mileage it’s all about how it was maintained. If you can get service records, that’s a huge plus. Although my truck wouldn’t show any oil changes, I do those myself. Still, at 160K I’d like to see at least one ATF change, and fluid swaps for the transfer case and differentials. Antifreeze, too. Those items are usually done by dealers so there should be records. You can get an idea about historical oil change intervals by pulling the dipstick and looking for varnish up above the oil level. The stick should be clean. If it is shiny/brand new? Someone might have cleaned it, so just use your judgement. You can also shine a flashlight inside the oil filler tube, and have a look at at least a little bit of what the cam and chains look like. If every part you see has a brownish coating on it, the engine has not been serviced regularly. 2016 still had single direct injection so there could be carbon buildup issues. I’ve never had problems with mine, but I’ve always kept clean synthetic oil in it, which helps because the synthetic oil stands up to more heat before it starts breaking down. What happens is blowby and your pcv system send a fine mist of oil past your intake valves. If the oil breaks down, you end up with a nasty coating of carbon on the valve stems, and the the ports of your intake system. Your giveaway here is a rough idle, especially after a cold start. That seems to be when the cylinder imbalance caused by severe carbon buildup is most likely to show. My engine has a little bit of a rough idle from stone cold, certainly not enough to classify as a misfire, and after the first couple of blocks of driving it smoothes out nicely. It’s behaved this way since new, so I’m calling it the nature of the beast. Gen II 2.7 and 3.5 both get direct plus port injection, which eliminates the carbon issues once and for all. For the rest of us, good synthetic oil changed 5000-6000 miles goes a long way. Good luck and if you don’t remember anything else out of this novel I just dictated, remember this: look for signs of regular oil changes and have a reputable shop check her out before you sign anything.

@@F9FCJ429 i appreciate the novel! Everything you said makes sense. The one I was thinking of looking at sold so I’m still on the hunt. We’ll see what happens

God dam That's a hell of a testimony. My 2.7 has been fantastic.

E

Same as my 2016.

How's the fuel mileage?

@@Optimistprime. I get around 19 mpg city , 22+ combined. 2018 2.7 supercrew 3.55 gear. Took it on a 3000mi trip last spring , got anywhere from 22.5 to 26 mpg, all speeds were 75 to 82 mph. Mpg was hand calculated because the dash mpg isn’t always correct. I’m extremely happy with it, it’s only had the oil changed every 4000 mi, no other service work done

I have a used 2019 with the 2.7. It has 108k miles on it. Regular maintenance both by me and the prior owner. 100kmi full service and it runs and drives like a new one that I test drove. I second the 19-20 mpg city (rural stop and go) and 23+ mpg on the highway depending on how I drive it, which isn’t slow. I plan on continuing the 5000-6000mi oil changes as opposed to the 10k intervals that I think they recommend. This is coming from a V8 die hard. My old 4.6 was reliable but had no where near the power. The low end torque makes me giggle every time.

Is that your first replacement of plugs? I have heard some folks replace at 60k some at 90k, some well over 100k. Just wondering when I should start thinking of replacing mine

@@paulhunter9613 Yeah, that was my first time replacing the plugs since I got mine at 65k.

@@Foxbody302 well that’s good to know, thanks. What was the condition of them , decent yet or quite used up? I’ve got a ways to go then with my 2.7 having 29xxx mi

@@paulhunter9613 they didn’t look too bad, but they looked like they had some mileage.

@@Foxbody302 👍

Supposedly, having the dealership disable the learning makes a big improvement in transmission performance.

You can buy a Cheap scan tool. 25 bucks. It solved my 10 speed issues

@@MacGregor. which scan tool? how did it clear up issues?

@@AC313_ FORScan Brings up a menu. Disable transmission adaptive learning. Plug in underneath dashboard. Steering column. First couple hundred miles after reset it learns your driving habits. No more clunking etcetera

Glad my 2015 come with the 6 speed. So far so good. I think the 10 speed is over kill personally.

Are you sure you would call it reliable? I am just so confused on which engine to get, too many people say stay away from any of the eco-boost and get the V8. Well, the newer 10 speed trans for the 5.0 is having all kinds of problems with the transmission.

@@bcw686 When I was shopping around for a full-size truck, I initially wanted to get a Ram. But when I found out their "auto start/stop" feature was shutting half the engine off, I looked elsewhere, which led me to the F150. I don't haul or tow anything on a regular basis, so the 2.7 EB was fine for how I drove the truck. From what I can tell, the 2.7 EB is a lot less problematic than the 3.5 EB, but mechanics prefer the 5.0 because of its simplicity.

oh ok, that makes more sense, thanks@@bronzestarvue

@@bronzestarvue the 5.0 is not known for simplicity anymore. And the start/stop feature you spoke of has nothing to do with having half of the engine shut off. The start /stop just turns the whole engine off then restarts it after like sitting at a stoplight. The 5.0 has MDS now, multiple displacement system, and that does shut down 1/2 the pistons when driving, another reason to stay away from the 5.0,,, among other problems .

@@bronzestarvue the auto start/stop feature has nothing to do with the cylinder deactivation feature. It just shuts the engine off at a stoplight, then restarts when the foot lifts off the brake. The cylinder deactivation has been problematic for Ram and Chevy and now ford has it on the 5.0. So it’s not a “simple” v8 anymore with with that feature, the wet belt oil pump, and variable valve timing. Time will tell whether it will last a long time

25 mpg in the city or highway? Also, how’s the fuel economy in the snow?

Hi Dr. What brand catch can did you go with and would recommend. Thanks!!!

@@robertclymer6948 I got an Amazon catch can, it has been doing it's job for four years.

Hi Don! What year 2.7 was this added? I have a 2015 F-150 2.7 ecoboost and thinking about adding an oil catch can.

@@robertclymer6948 It was added with the 2018 F-150.

That's great to hear! Installing an oil catch can is a smart preventative measure to help reduce the amount of oil that can build up on the valves over time.

They do say with the dual injection with 2018 and up you don’t need a catch can. So have you checked the catch can to see if there is any oil in it?

The direct and port don't function at the same time. It uses one at a time, based on what's going on. It cuts down the carbon buildup roughly by half.

Yes.

@@bradh6185 or it doesn’t let the carbon build up at all…

Hi Zach, how tough was it changing those plugs, man those back cylinders look like a bitch to do. Thanks Bro.

They aren’t bad at all. Nothing major needs done,. 3/8” drive with swivel on 6” extension takes care of the back plugs. All done including clean up within 1 hour comfortably.

I’m wondering the same thing. On the first gen 2.7 absolutely yes. The newer 2.7 made from 2018 on however has both port injection and direct injection so I’d imagine that would help alleviate the oil on the valves in turn reducing carbon buildup.

I would put a catch can on any forced-induction engine (turbo or supercharged), or one that has any form of direct injection. I did mine on a '23 Toyota 4runner for about $30. The kits made for specific engines are more expensive, but they're usually designed to be plug and play, so very easy to install. One could certainly spend money on worse things for their vehicle...

For all the talk, I don’t think generation 1 does either. 160,000 miles on my 15. No catch can no issues. No online problems I’ve seen either.

2.7

So why were the intake valves all caked-up?

The 2011 to 2016 2.7 didn't have duel injectors, the 2017 to 2023 had both injectors.

Perhaps he used a pic of some other engine to try a prove a point. Just like he said excessive oil consumption, that’s bull💩, I’ve never heard anyone make that claim unless you had a 5.0@@hmdwn

Yes. The 2.7 is essentially the same in all of fords applications. Depending on 1st or 2nd generation. 2018 and up 2.7’s have port injection with fuel injection to help with blow by.

​@@Boosted304My 2018 2.7 T MKX does not have duel point injection. So it seems to be only the f150's that got the change to 2nd gen

Maybe buy some better quality windshield washer fluid for starters. If it’s freezing that’s not fords fault. With getting a 5.0 next time, get a fresh credit card also, you will need it, it will get used often

@@paulhunter9613 I use the purple -32 degrees stuff. It was a Ford thing the hose is too small diameter i was told. There was a service bulletin put out for it.

@@ctfan1486 but it works just fine in warm weather, then “freezes up “ in winter,,, hmmn

It’s water in the check valve under the cowl on the passenger side. Drill it out and forget about it.

I've had 2 of them and used nothing but 87 octane with 0 problems, they're really good motors.

You can use either 87 or 93. Also I had a 4.6 2v, great durable engine

I use 87 in my 2.7. I use chevron gas so its probably a solid choice for 87 gasoline. Truck runs great.

Have the 2.7. It needs Lucas fuel stabilizer every couple tanks have the catch can it's great But Had the 4.6. Was a great runner

A healthy 4.6 is as good as anything if you're not looking at $$$. Expected issues on the 4.6 2v aren't so bad with proper care. However, if I did go newer I would get a 2.7 and treat it well (like the 4.6 and also 5.4 2v, Not 3valve. I've had a couple of 5.4 2v and they are smooth and quiet, and with proper care 250,000+ miles is achievable. We'll have to wait for 15 more years to find out how these EBs turn out, but for me an older 10th generation (1997-2003) 5.4/4.6 is just fine...IF TAKEN CARE OF.

15-17 have a Chain, after that all have wet belt

@@theodorecarbajal2975 Thanks that is good to know

A lot of people have been waiting for that belt to break and it hasn’t happened yet

@@paulhunter9613😂😂😂they can wait only

@@jassmaan7603 there are sites out there that folks have over 200,000 mi and no problems, it’s like waiting any other engine to have issues 🥴

Does the newer 2021 models have the wet belt?

I drove new thundra hybrid believe me it’s drive like shit , overbuild truck and you feel like ur driving a garbage truck😂

2018 and up DI

2018 has direct and port injection

We have both!

I miss my nissian truck. The Frontiers are great. I upgraded to the F150 for a full size. Hopefully it lasts a long time.

And don’t believe everything you hear on YT, some of the things said in this vid is bull💩

Partly agree. Higher octane fuel is designed to resist detonation or "knocking" in high-performance engines that have higher compression ratios or turbocharging. It is not necessarily cleaner-burning than regular gasoline. Some fuel manufacturers do add detergents to higher octane fuels that can help keep engine components clean and reduce emissions. Additionally, some higher-end gasoline formulations, such as "Top Tier" gasoline, may contain fewer impurities and contaminants, which can lead to cleaner burning and reduced engine deposits.

All gasoline grades have detergents in them!!!

If you think you need to run premium in this 2.7 daily you are wrong. If that’s the case then a 5.0 with 12.5 factory compression ratio would require premium all the time, and it doesn’t need that at all@@carproblemsmax

@@surroundedbyjaggoffs and top tier gas has more detergents in it, to be called top tier it has a set of standards it must pass unlike any other brand of gasoline

Put a Tiger tail in tank🐆

Very good point, what engine would you recommend?

@JulianoGSF it depends on what you're looking for. In my opinion, the eco-boost motors have been vetted out pretty well. But if you want 200K miles plus, stick with a 3.7 for cars and definitely a Coyote for the trucks.

Interesting opinion @@briantufaro1953

@brianufaro It isn’t a flaw and the belt does not degrade

@@JulianoGSF the five oh has the cold startup death rattle, high oil consumption, has a “tick” when warm, and has Mds which if is like GM and Ram will destroy the engine. And it has no low end torque to tow things like a truck should have

Perceived reliability 🤣🤣

I compared the 2024 Ranger Lariat 2.7 to the 2024 Tacoma Limited. All things considered, the Ranger is a far better truck. People have different opinions. I put down a $1,000 deposit and ordered the Ranger 4 days ago.

Clearly it’s just your opinion