How to remove the transmission on a 1999 Ford Ranger. This is a 5 speed manual with 2WD. 2.5 liter 4 cylinder engine. This procedure took about an hour.
I actually just dropped my transmission on my 2001 ford ranger, 4.0 SOHC 5 speed manual 4x4 this last weekend. Did it by myself, I actually took a block of wood, cut it down and notched it with a skill saw so it would fit flat on the bottom of the transmission. Then I took two ratchet straps and strapped it to teh bottom of the transmission. Grabbed my rolling jack, put it under there.. then wrestled it out and dropped it - only needed 1 hand to hold the driveshaft end!
I bought a 199 Ranger that needed a fuel pump. Paid $200 for it. Changed fuel pump, EGR valve and tubing and put a new battery in her. She was running like a top....or so I thought. 185 miles later tranny goes out. Got another, gonna put it in this weekend 05/10/19. Thanks for the video!
I ended up doing the same thing I did on my Montero- very long extensions with a wobble at the end, doing the wrenching from behind the transmission. It helped to let the trans hang down without the crossmember to give a little more room to get the socket up there. He had a new clutch put in at one point and they must've really tightened them tight!! Took some work but we got it loose. Getting the new trans stabbed in with just muscles and a bottle jack was rough, but we got it. Thanks again!
I really appreciate the effort you took to produce this video. I had the "luxury" of watching not only your video, but many others. Yours was one of the best I could find that showed exactly how you got the tranny to the floor. Coming out, gravity is our friend. Over 30 years ago I did this the same way in my Dad's driveway on my '87 Mazda B2000. Putting it back together dang near gave me a hernia!
one tip so you dont spill any fluid if you want to keep it is putting a plastic bag (fold)on the transmission end and use electrical tape around after you take off the drive shaft
This is a fantastic video! Still helpful today, in 2021. Trying to save the brand new transmission from my ranger, to resell before I send it to scrap.
I recommend removing the shifter lever itself at the base holding bolt instead of removing the top "cap" of the transmission to remove the shifter lever. The NUT on the right side of the base of the shifter lever, remove it and screw it onto the left side of the shifter lever base bolt, it will pull the compressed pin bolt out of the tight fit . Remove the pin bolt and remove the shifter lever. Much simpler than how you did yours.
Not so important but heads up. if you remove the positive cable to a battery and not the negative, you have a chance at causing a short. Like if a tool were too touch the positive side with the negative cable still attached. Always disconnect the negative first.
I just wanted to say thanks for taking the time to make and post this video. My friend has a 1990 Ranger with the M50D-R1 trans and we just got a new one shipped to us today, and with some tips from your video we got straight to it, and almost have it out already. He is a one banana mechanic, so a its slow going. Tomorrow I will be working on it and we'll have the trans out fairly fast. Your video made very clear a couple of spots I was unsure about.
I use ratchet straps that go around the top side of the frame when I do transmissions. And zip tying a zip lock bag over the tail end helps. Also make sure truck is in NEUTRAL before you pull the shifter out. Otherwise you need to pop the shift forks back into neutral with a screwdriver.
+John K Yes sir stole my method takes a little more time but its a lot safer and you can manipulate the transmission better without breaking into tears .
Took me as long to get the upper right hand bolt out as it did to get everything else out/disconnected to pull it. Wound up having to pull the cat converter, right front tire and plastic inner fender in order to weld a 1/2-13 nut on the rounded off bolt head to get the blasted thing out! Good news was the master cylinder didn't need the lengthy bleeding process. Was rock hard solid before reconnecting the high pressure line so I only had to gravity bleed the new slave cylinder. Thanks again!
I have to replace my flywheel on my 96 ranger and man did your video just help me out big time. Thankyou brother, this video was very clear on teaching
@7:14 - Yup. That sounds about right. Be changing a slave cylinder this weekend, you answered all the questions I had, in the AC, that I didn't want to go figure out in the dadbern Texas heat. 👍🏼 Thanks
MAN I HAVE BEEN TRYING FOR DAYS ON GETTING THE HYDOLIC CLCH LINE OUT FROM THAT STUPIT COUPLING I WISH I WOULD HAVE FOUND THIS VIDEO FIRST COUSE YOU GUYS ARE THE BEST AFTER LOOKING AT THE VEDIO I WENT OUT SIDE DID LIKE YOU SAID ON VEDIO AND IN LESS THAT A MINET THE DAM THING CAME RIGHT OUT THANK FOR THE VEDIO BIG RUBEN
Here is another tip for you when you remove your transmission without the correct jack.. If you are using just a standard jack like you are using, grab yourself a 2x6 about 12 inches long and put it on top of your jack to give your transmission a little more support.. Also if you can screw in 2 eye bolts into the side of the 2x6 and take a ratchet strap and wrap it up and over the transmission to help secure it to the 2x6 it would also help...
Thanks for the video. On the shifter lever, just remove the big bolt and the shift arm comes off keeping the trany sealed on the top. Also drain the trany fluid before you start , makes it lighter. They recommend supporting the rear of the engine when you move the trany.
That's the way we've done it for years. "Quick and Easy". I usually put a bag over the tail of the transmission, then got both knees in place under the transmission, pulled on the tail piece and sort of rolled either left or right to get the transmission to the ground. I was wondering about how heavy the Ranger transmission was due to the bell housing being integrated on the front of it. All of the ones I've done so far, the transmission was removed from the bell housing, not the back of the engine. But now I see it's do-able. I guess aluminum makes a huge difference. Thanks for the video!
The funny part about you wrestling with that trans is that i find myself laughing....then recall the few times ive been in the exact same position. But it works!
Yeah, I was laughing at the transmission wrestling too. It's really cool that this was all done on his back with the wheels on the ground, no lift, no ramps.
thanks Brandon job already done it took me about 7 hours to do it...now my 97 ranger shits like a champ...and for Jenniesgarage again M8 thanks a bunch...Ps. Jennies I'd used a tinny flat screw driver to release the fluid line from the housing I pushed kind of evenly all around it while pulling the line away...wasn't hard at all!
On the slave cylinder quick release, I highly recommend putting some electrical tape over the release to protect it from weathering. Just took mine out today to replace both slave cylinder and the pressure plate and the plastic on the release had broken off. We used a pipe cutter to cut the release off without damaging the other part.
if you dont have a trans jack u can run rope around the trans behind the shifter and up thru the shifter hole and have someone lift from inside. it is a lot easier to manuver the trans for the reinstall. Hit it the first time and it rotated right in.
Nice work! Right now I'm trying to get a nut off that I stripped for my cross member bar. I'm just going to hand torch it off and replace the bolt later. I can't wait to see my fly wheel (hopefully not in rough shape). I only have a damn used clutch to put in it. Pray everything works well! Anyway I learned step by step by your video and is coming along nicely. BTW I have a Ford Ranger 1996 XLT and alot easier to change the clutch out compared to alot of other vehicles lol!
Great video man, I had a 98 ranger, same set up. Did the same thing, but I pulled the engine too so I just yanked both in one go. But my suggestion would be to losen the motor mounts, disconnect the wires/driveshaft, and cross member from the trans, then slowly jack it on down that way you can get to all the bolts from the bottom...Make sense? Either way works, but it might save you a trip from underneath the truck haha
Thanks! We need it! We're trying to get those two top bolts, and its a nightmare. We dropped the crossmember so the transmission would come down some so we could get to them, and it hardly budged! Do you have any tips on that?
Usually watching some suffering details is satisfying to compare to my own experience. On a Toyota trans I did get the hernia, not sure at which point it occurred. Tranny jack, magnetic light, nitrile gloves, 4 jack stands, and snap ring plier set you probably own by now.
How did you get the 2 very top bolts? I'm working on a '97 2.3 and I can't even get my fingers back behind the block (sitting in the engine bay), let alone any tools. Also, is removing the crossmember necessary?
I can't speak from experience, but I have been told that with the V6 you need to pull the exhaust. Soak the mounting bolts in some WD40 overnight, and then try going to work on them. If that doesn't work put some heat to them. Worst case is the grinder method. I hope you get it!
I am about to do this on my 97 ranger. Couple of questions first. What were the symptoms caused by slave cylinder. My truck is hard to shift when it warms up. Seems like it's 1st and 2nd but you can tell it get harder to shift as it warms up. I have read if your gonna drop the trans you should put a new clutch plate in as well? Any advise would be appreciated. Thanks.
Finally got the starter off, ugg what a pain, had to use a lot of penetrating oil and a breaker bar. There was a lot of corrosion and a bit of rust on the bolts. Now I can finally loosen up the bolts on the transmission.
Just finished doing mine that way. Same jack as OP. And a piece of 2x6. I was told i would have to remove exhaust. Not on mine. I did jack mine up though and set it on 2 stands. Not as skinny as OP :) 2000 v6 3.0 flex 2wd ford ranger
Not a mechanic so have a part question. At about the 6:15 minute mark you had backed the bolts out and for lace of a better way to put it wiggled a plastic looking piece at the front of the bell housing. What is that particular part called?
We've done it with a 4.0 Explorer while I was in school. The only must with that is a long, or several decently long extensions, and maybe a swivel haha. You don't have to go down very far, just far enough to catch a little eye sight on the top bolts. I like bouncing idea's off people, they might know a better way to save me time so theres my idea for you to help you out one day man! Haha
I removed ALL the bellhousing to engine bolts but still wouldn't budge. One thing no one has ever mentioned... THE ENGINE TO BELLHOUSING BOLTS!! UGH!!! Stranded away from home. Three days under that dang Ranger in a parking lot trying to get to the clutch slave. There is a much faster and simpler remedy. Put an ad on Craig's List: Ford Ranger. Works great but needs a clutch slave installed. The slave is about $75. I'll take off $200. Best offer! Then, go buy yourself a 1998 Toyota (nothing newer) with low miles. The Toyota has an EXTERNAL clutch slave. Get your act together, Mazda!
I started with an 89 yota with the 3.sl0 that pos didn't get me very far in cali though, i got the ranger and i love it but if the clutch isn't 100% bled the transmission sucks. Fordzda needs to get their shit together
I know it's a little late, but I just ran into the same problem on my Mazda B2300. I climbed up there and held the breaker bar in place after tying a rope to the end of it. I had a buddy slowly pull and it came right off.
The only thing holding me back right now from having mine off is the bolt at the top of the bell housing, a few inches from the firewall. I've put PB Blaster and that Loctite freeze shit on there, which got everything else loose. I just can't get enough leverage on my wrench to loosen the bolt at all. Any suggestions? Mine's a 96 with the 2.3, not sure if the bolt pattern would be any different.
I have the exact same truck. 1999 Ford Ranger 2.5l 5 speed. The pressure plate on mine doesn't seem to be releasing all the way and I am considering doing this job. Do you have any video of you putting the clutch kit on? BTW great video, almost makes me think I can tackle the job myself.
over the top of the trans mission and see the 2 bolts. Some finagling and a LOOOONG extension should be able to let you reach them. I know it seems counter intuitive, but looking forward from the rear of the trans really IS the easiest way to SEE those bolts. I used a massive extension and a swivel head socket wrench to pop them loose but a stubby socket or stubby crescent wrench will prob. do the trick just as easily if you are willing to try it the the "blind bellhousing hug" way.
Hi there I recently got a 1994 ford ranger 4x4 that needs the flywheel replaced I my self have never replaced a flywheel or took one off I can change brakes roaders and most other things pretty much the flywheel is one of the few things I've never had to mess with I know there is a big difference in replacing the flywheel so I was wondering what would be the best way for me to do this job I don't have a lift or anything but I do have a floor jack and jack stands can I lower the trans by using the the floor jack?? Or is there a way to replace the flywheel without removing the trans
I guess I should have tried this outdoors where there's more light, lol. Even with a drop light it's hard to see the transmission bolts in the garage. After the first two bolts on the bottom, the next ones I see have the bolt heads facing the engine, which really sucks. I'm having a heck of a time trying to even get to those, much less break them loose. I do have a transmission jack if I ever do manage it. Wish me luck, lol.
I just bought the truck and the symptoms I am having is sometimes it's hard to put into gear and when I put it into neutral and come up to a stop it feels like something is releasing and pushing forward well after I put it in neutral. I'm thinking the pressure plate, or slave cylinder. Any opinions? It's never slipped or jumped out of gear on me. The clutch pedal feels normal.
I need to work on my 2001 ranger but when I have it in nuetral it acts like it is still in gear I was told I need to replace shift forks any help on this situation please and thanks in advance
I have a 98 ranger 4cyl manual that has an issue. Sometimes it shifts like a dream, othertimes it's hard to shift, sometimes needing both hands to force it in. I thought the floor mat was preventing the clutch pedal from going all the way down (and it have been) but the problems persist. It will cluck in first gear as if it is still partially engaged, sometimes it will grind and not go in or just not even get to the grinding point and it takes several tries to jam it in gear. It comes and goes.
Excellent video man, I have a 2000 Ford Ranger Automatic though. How much of a difference do you think it is. Because i need to remove it and get it replaced find one from a junk yard who knows dont know yet. It has 350,000 miles on it lol. Back and forth to Atlantic City every day since i bought it. Also how do you get it back up to the engine where it goes? Any help would be greatly appreciated, Goin to attemped this in the near future......
Some quick pointers for you you don't have to take the starter wires off just take the starter bolts out and leave it up in the frame the starter itself the transmission bolts take all out but one there's dowel pins and input shaft it's not going anywhere until you pull that last one out jack up the car for you can get the rear wheels to spin so you can get at that other driveline bolt
ngl the trans jack I borrowed dies almost immediately when I did my 240sx trans and watching you drop the trans was like watching play for play video of myself xD
So would you recommend doing the clutch while the transmission is out rather then waiting 2 weeks and getting to do it again isn't that how it usually goes
I have a 86 ranger and I lost reverse , I’m gonna take the trans out, do I take it out in park or nuetral .... Iv never messed with automatic transmissions trying to learn
I replaced a clutch 95ford ranger what is the easiest way to hook the tranny up it's like something is blocking it going all the way into place what step did I miss why won't it go into place
I just went through this myself, if you lower the transmission and let it be supported by the engine then it will tilt the engine just enough for you to see/access them. You will have to either work "blind" by "hugging" the bell housing (Laying with feet forward towards front of truck, body under bellhousing) OR You can scoot back till your head is just a little further back than the rear of trans, and look forward towards top of bellhousing, Then you should just barely be able to look forward
