GSK: Tier 1 shoes

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GSK: Tier 1 shoes
General Shoe Knowledge: Tier 1 shoes. Shoes over $850.
Here is my overall sizing guide, inspired by the Skoaktiebolaget sizing guide.
@wishoeguy Sizing Chart
Fugashin 9.5UK
John Lobb 10UK
Stefano Bemer TX 44.5 PdP
Bontoni 202 44 PdP
Vass new Peter 44 PdP
Vass u 44 PdP
Meermin Rui UK10
Meermin Hiro UK10
Meermin HOK UK9.5
Meermin Elton UK10
Allen Edmonds 65 US11D
Allen Edmonds 511 US11D
Allen Edmonds 108 US11D
Allen Edmonds 64 US11D
Allen Edmonds 606 US11D
Allen Edmonds 1757 US11D
Allen Edmonds 1943 US11D
Allen Edmonds 97 US11D
Alden Barrie 11D US
Alden Aberdeen 11E US
Crockett and Jones 336 UK 10E
Crockett and Jones 325 UK10E
Crockett and Jones 378 UK10E
Crockett and Jones 348 UK10E
Crockett and Jones 341 UK10E
Loake Capital UK9.5F
Loake Tower UK9.5F
Loake River UK9.5F
Loake Bullet UK9.5F
Vass U UK10 / 44 (a little tight)
Vass New Peter UK10 / 44
Heinrich Dinkelacker Buda UK9.5G
Heinrich Dinkelacker Luzern UK9.5G
TLB Mallorca Picasso UK10
TLB Bryan UK10
Carmina Rain UK10
Carmina Oscar UK10
Carmina Forest UK10
Carmina Simpson UK10.5
Löf and Tung T UK10
Enzo Bonafe 74945 UK10
Enzo Bonafe 946 UK 10
Alden Barrie US11D
Alden Aberdeen US11E
Barker 464 UK9.5F
Alfred Sargent 109 UK10
Carlos Santos 57 UK9.5
Carlos Santos 234 UK9.5
Carlos Santos CS2 UK9.5
Amblier AM18 UK10
Paolo Scafora R UK10
Paolo Scafora Door UK10
Yeossal Branca UK10
Cobbler Union 312 9.5UK
TLB Picasso 10UK
TLB Bryan 10UK
TLB Goya 10UK
TLB Oliver 10UK
Edward Green 389 10UK
Gaziano & Girling TG73 10.5UK
Gaziano & Girling MH71 10 UK
Foster &Son ALM 10FUK
George Cleverley 348 10UK
Oct Tenth Huang 10UK (has high instep. Asked for thicker sole).
Paraboot Griff UK10
Mezlan 110 US11M
Church’s Natural UK10G
Church’s Castoro UK10F
J Fitzpatrick NGT UK10.5E (will size down to 10 in future)
J Fitzpatrick LPB UK9.5E
Barbanerra Gaucho UK10
Sons of Henrey Contemporary Almond 10F
Trickers 2298 UK10F
Trickers 6143 UK9.5F
Bruno Magli 92B UK10/44/US11
Eve’s and Gray UK10 (no last listed)
A Meccariellio Hawksbill UK10 / 44
Herring Lakenhurst 10F

Хобби

Опубликовано:

12 дек 2020

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Комментарии : 44

@CobblerBob Год назад

Great video!! 👊🏼 Amazing info here.

@zefdin101 3 года назад

Excellent dissertation on higher end shoes. Thanks! That Scafora Norwegian Split Toe has me drooling on my keyboard it’s so beautiful... Bellissimo!

@wishoeguy 3 года назад

Thanks

@kenwintimothypallorossisma7029 3 года назад

Awesome video again John. Took us on a short trip around Europe covid can’t stop us from traveling the shoe world. Thanks again for a awesome video!

@wishoeguy 3 года назад

thanks

@guythat1185 3 года назад

Very informative

@antoniohopson5287 3 года назад

Thank You Again...... Like Said Before, Shoe Game Is Fantastic.. Thank You For The Education...

@wishoeguy 3 года назад

Thanks again!

@csmcilwain 3 года назад

Your shoe game is on point!! 👌🏾

@wishoeguy 3 года назад

Thanks!

@hanwenyap 3 года назад

Super awesome video! Hope you'll do Tiers II, III, IV and so on in the future!

@wishoeguy 3 года назад

As you saw I have tier 2 mapped out. I’ll get the rest done too. Always takes longer than you expect. Thanks for the feedback.

@marksshoereviews6028 3 года назад

Very informative video. Personally I haven’t been able to justify the leap in price from upper Tier 2 (C&J Handgrade, Cheaney Imperial etc) to Tier 1 yet but I would likely start with G&G as their shoes are works of art. On the other hand, I’ve never been sold on Edward Green. Seems like a poor value proposition vs C&J handgrade and I can’t really figure out what I’m getting for the premium paid.

@wishoeguy 3 года назад

I understand that. Part of the reason I’ve been reticent to pull the trigger on a pair of dovers. At this level if it doesn’t feel like art, why bother?

@tonydeltablues 3 года назад

Wi Shoeguy - a stella video! You've introduced tier 1 shoes and I'm taken. I cannot afford tier 1 shoes (yet) but I really loved the St Crispins. Should we anticipate a tier 2 video? Tony

@wishoeguy 3 года назад

Yes. I’ll probably need at least a Week for that and I’ve got a couple unboxing to do in between. I’m also doing some shoe battles on European Adelaides and Split toes that will drop tonight. 13 brands each. Should be interesting. Lots coming.

@tonydeltablues 3 года назад

@@wishoeguy Appreciate all the time and effort! As and when you are able, I'll be there to watch :-) Tony

@scottbredin2882 3 года назад

Informative as ever! Do you know why Ascot have discontinued their association with Vass?

@wishoeguy 3 года назад

I’m not sure, but I think they’ve released their own last recently so evolution is an exciting step for them.

@Yshin10 3 года назад

Hey Wi Shoeguy, you have a lot of knowledge. I think it would be amazing if you had a blog? I'd love to be able to pin point your recommendations for Tier 1 shoe brands... like GG, EG, JL, etc., and which you like the best and then your Tier 2 brands... etc., What are you thoughts on Archibald London? I'm seeing them come up in the handwelting scene.

@wishoeguy 3 года назад

I haven’t had the pleasure of owning an Archibald London. Have to check out a pair.

@viasartoria 2 года назад

Hi there, really enjoy your content! Just wanted to say, “Positano” is not a type of calf leather, just the name they give to the patina.

@wishoeguy 2 года назад

Thanks. My mistake.

@anangelshero0410 3 года назад

Really cool collection... Have you considered costs for recrafting Norvegese stitched shoes versus similar GYW or blake-stitched?

@wishoeguy 3 года назад

Fiddleback waists and / or pegged waists are definitely more expensive to recraft. Great call out! . Though with my rotation I don’t have a lot of recrafting to do. I’ll talk to some cobblers and get some estimates to share on a follow up.

@josephheinecke1992 2 года назад

Thats a great question. I have a Meermin Norvegese welt that after thinking about it got me settled on that same question. Local cobbler is worthless so gonna have to mail off when the time comes

@garysanchez997 3 года назад

Hi Who does your shoe repairs? Thanks Love your channel !

@wishoeguy 3 года назад

Thanks. I have worked with a number of quality guys over the years. There is a cool group on facebook many of the pros belong to. North American Shoe Repair. If you’re looking for someone that’s the place id look.

@technolotree5690 3 года назад

Hey bud, I love, love your shoe collection, and your knowledge about them. But man, for half the price of one of the shoes in your collection, you could invest in a nice little Sony camera and not have to make videos from the web camera of a laptop. Just some honest advice. Keep up the channel. I suggest a basic Sony RX100 would improve the quality for your channel tremendously.

@wishoeguy 3 года назад

I have a beautiful Nikon d5600 but the autofocus keeps chopping up. I’m working on this and a sound solution in the new year. Thanks for the feedback.

@petermonarchist9542 3 года назад

Lovely Bemer shoes! Thank you. However, I find no explanation as to why Edward Green, for instance, would be better than, say, Barbanera. Edward Green uses thermoplastic in the heels and gemming technique with a textile piece. The leathers are very good but so are even Meermins Linea Maestro leathers. Antonio Meccariello seems to make much more well made shoes than Edward Green. Shoes should no be categorised with using price as a prime determining factor.

@wishoeguy 3 года назад

The tier system is just about price and the grade system will be all about quality. In the end though I won’t compare a factory made shoe with a handmade shoe. The gemming (canvas) is the hallmark Goodyear welted shoes which are mass produced. iMhO the best of these are Edward green and GG. It’s actually about the quality of the leather, the craftmanship and design. Meccariello makes these type of shoes too in his Aeris line. I’ve owned some vintage Florsheim shoes that were 55 years old and the gemming still fine so I have a hard time saying it impacts enduring quality. Bemer and the top line of AM, Saint Cripins, Enzo, Vass and Paolo Scafora are all hand welted and sew the insole directly to the welt and don’t have canvas.

@petermonarchist9542 3 года назад

@@wishoeguy Thanks for your reply. I think gemming is a shameful technique. Edward Green is in no way better while using the gemming technique than anybody else. Thermoplastic is also a disgusting thing. Edward Green does have some good looking shoes but they are horribly overvalued at around €800. People praise them so much because they’re proud to be able to afford them while others cannot. My Greens are fine but nothing to brag about. My Meermin Linea Maestro inspire more confidence at one week in. There is no way I am paying €800 for gemmed shoes with thermoplastic at the toes and heel. If I feel the need to show off, I‘ll buy a golden Rolex which I don’t think I will want to.

@wishoeguy 3 года назад

I’m unclear what you mean about thermoplastic. I do know that the gemming is glued to the insoles but don’t know of any heated plastic except what they do over the upper for sole work, which is just protection for the upper and I believe all others do this as well. The heel counters and toe reinforcements on EG are sewn and leather, not plastic or paper (per the guys ive met who make the shoes or have been on factory tours) just like the LM line at Meermin. Don’t get me wrong, £800-£1200 is a ton to spend on shoes both in general and on any one specific pair. While I’ve found discounted or slightly used pairs to try EG, I can’t honestly say that any of my Meermin really measure up. I’m talking about the Norwegian split toe stitching because that’s what I have in many brands. The EG stitching is in line with Acme, Saint Crispins, Gaziano & Girling and Paolo Scafora in quality of the stitch. I don’t have Bemer in this style yet. The skin stitch toe, the apron density and finishing it next level compared to other hand welted options from Vass, Oct Tenth, Yeossal, Enzo Bonafe, and Meermin LM. These are all beautiful and solidly constructed shoes. The GG and EG are the only GYW among them. The gemming is glued but nothing else is held only by glue. What do you mean by thermoplastic? these are not like a thermo fused suit. I’m a little lost by what you mean and want to learn. Thanks.

@petermonarchist9542 3 года назад

@@wishoeguy Hi, thanks for your words. I’m very happy to learn about and discuss shoes with shoe lovers who are not pretentious or engage in war-like rhetoric. Thermoplastic is what is found in many shoes in the heel counter and the toe box, placed there to maintain structure. It is no deal breaker and almost all my shoes probably have it. But I think it is a disaster to sell a shoe for €800 or more to save €5 on a leather heel. Also, thermoplastic can break over time and ruin the shoe. Maybe Edward Green has stopped using those but they have in used it in the past which I have been told by my shoemaker who I am friends with. Gemming technique is a shameful „innovation“. It turns the shoe unnecessarily wobbly, especially over time and it may tear and shoemakers can have a hard time repairing it as they may not hit the existing holes while resoling. Handwelting is much better. Also, in Germany, where I‘m living, seasoned shoemakers have told me they do not like the stapling which comes with the gemming canvas - it causes the shoe to rot. Alternatives are handwelting or using many nails which used to be the German way of shoemaking. I cannot comment on stitching on Norwegian split toes - it is not my favourite style - I prefer a shoe to shine (pun intended) through its excellent, deep gloss only achievable via very good leather and a beautiful last. The only ornament I allow myself is tassel loafers and, of course, brogues. I prefer shoes other than black. Interestingly, C&J lasts tend to fit me very well but I‘m not buying those anymore. I love the Meccariello lasts and leathers - really need to acquire some soon! Have a good day! 👋🏻

@surinderjitsingh8954 Год назад

Bridlen shoes also don't use gemming

@wishoeguy Год назад

True. Their website is confusing if it’s traditional handwelted because they refer to the outsole stitching as Goodyear welt which it’s not. Goodyear is the linen gemming. If there is a channel on the insole (which there is in some pics and not in others and it’s never stitched) that holds the stitching to the welt instead of the gemming then it’s handwelt. If you do the stitching with machine Meccariello and JimJun call it modified gyw. I know it’s complicated, like a teenage romance.

@abdulazizal-thibaiti6517 3 года назад

did he talk about edward green ?

@wishoeguy 3 года назад

I did

@abdulazizal-thibaiti6517 3 года назад

@@wishoeguy I watched the whole thing. What min. And second did you talk about them. And thanks for the video. I plan on getting the st. James style from gazinio

@wishoeguy 3 года назад

I’m sorry. I mixed up what video. I did in my last split toe video. I only had EG summer loafers when I recorded this and I didn’t think they were representative of the brand.

@wishoeguy 3 года назад

You can check the English shoes playlist for direction.

@abdulazizal-thibaiti6517 3 года назад

@@wishoeguy I’ll go and check it out. Thanks