You're like the Bob Ross of mechanics. Mellow with a velvety baritone voice. Makes me happy I need to work on my bike on a beautiful day. Happy little fork seals.
Wow Mike, this is just what I needed to see to get this done. Also, oddly soothing video, like motorcycle Bob Ross.... At 12:56, I almost expected a "Happy lil fork tube...."
You bet. But that 77 is quite a bit different. If you're looking in your service manual (and I hope you do), you'll see that late in 77, Harley started using Showa brand forks. They are different from the old original Harley forks and they are different from what we showed here. If you're just changing fork oil, read it. If you're installing new seals, read it. Figure out what you've got. Showa forks were installed on 77 FL's, I believe, after September 77.
Thanks for the reply and heads up. I have the manual. Skill? That's another story. I might chicken out! I know they did a midyear change. Cause I read and watch you!
Take it slow. Be careful. You're better than most, because you take the time to read. We all start at the beginning. Don't forget to enjoy it and feel proud, like you just gave yourself a present.
This guy is the shovel guru, but not to proud to make a simple fork seal replacement video for aspiring DIY MC owners. Nice, glad to see you disassemble forks the same way I do. Curious to see how you get the fork cap back in under spring tension. I have large arms and just brute force it in most of the time. lol I have the tool to help on touring models, some of those have insanely stout springs.
Looking for an older Dyna right now--save the RK for my trips down the Blue Ridge. Your videos, with your extremely clear way of explaining things, are always very helpful.
Good morning Mr Pacific, Cameraman Mike. Seals once you do them once, they’re a breeze and great tip with the wedge and grease ( oil )as well. On my 2002 Night Train 41mm forks, I changed over to Monotubes in the front but they still require a few ounces of fluid for lubrication. So when I was putting them back together I double guessed myself when I tightened the drain screws on the lowers so I pulled them apart to check, after the new seals were installed. I then put it back together again but now after a ride my fork seals aren’t leaking but they leave a mild streaking or residue that I wipe clean, not even enough to look wet in the finger but I attribute this to pulling it apart right after I put it together again. I do have another seals kit but I was waiting until this winter when I put in gold tubes and paint the lowers. Correct me if I’m wrong Mike but once you make a seal on the fork legs, should they be replaced any time you pull them back apart, even if brand new? I use James seals by the way. I feel like it’s a one and done application no matter what and as soon as you pull them off, you’ve compromised the seal? I mean they only go together one way but what do you think? Take care of yourself Mike, always pleasure watching you work.
@@pacificmike9501 Any chance of you educating us on magneto’s? Especially how to set one for for generator vs stator bike. I have asked many people that question and get varying answers.
The charging system has nothing to do with it. Getting instructions from the manufacturer (Morris, Burkhardt, Joe Hunt), works or use an early Sportster (58-69) XLCH HD factory Service manual. It's just a matter or getting the timing very exacting. No big sparkplug gaps. Book calls for .018 or .019.
Thanks for this video, Mike! I recently bought a 2000 Dyna FXDWG and want to lower it a bit. I have a Progressive Suspension lowering kit on the way, and I plan on doing the install myself, along with new O-rings, seals and bushings.
Ah it a pleasure to see you in good trim, and having done several forks over the years I now have to wait and see if you shim the bushings. Zero play and near-zero drag was the goal when I was doing that sort of thing.
hi Mike...I have a dyna with the leak and i was just about to research on how to and there you are....love it easy to follow and obviously a experienced bike guy....thx
I remembered you had a trick for spreading the lower clamp ! Repairing fork leak seal on my 75 FLH. The trick works great for spreading lower clamp. Thanks again.
You remind of a old school taught me a lot when I was coming up his name was Rummy he was a well know remarkable soul he rode an fxr had over 400k miles on it
Hey Mike I really enjoy your videos. I have a couple of questions not related to the fork seals but here goes: 1) I have a 1990 evo softail that has an S&S carb and intake. Will the intake flanges/ seals from the stock manifold work with the S&S manifold? Just the seals perhaps? 2) Have you ever heard of or used Murphys soap? A tire shop turned me onto it to help seat a troublesome bead on an aluminum rim. It's thick like axle grease but is water soluble. Can I use it on the rubber intake seals? Thanks in advance
Thanks mike ; always pleasure to watch . Did mine . Used the old seal on top and old broken triple tree bottom to knock in . Don’t forget to put drain plug in before filling . 😁 ✊🏻👍👌👋
@@pacificmike9501 dang ; they save a few bucks - I watched a few old biker movies and they have the rubber covers over tubes . Never cared for the looks but guess they do work . 😁 Heard the worst thing is the dried bug guts on tubes . Not good on seals - ✊🏻👍👌👋
Yah, just old style stuff. A lot of people love 'em. Different strokes. I've got a collection of old biker movies. I remember when most of them were made.
Moin, thank you "both Mike s" ;-) for the very usefull Video. Excellent to use the Cardboard and the Woodchissel! In the past, I used no Cardboard and a Screwdriver..... I will do that never again!! Thank you!!!
Another great how to Video. thanks Mike. I still think you should make your videos a little longer, you should make this video you changing both forks, there's 1000's of people that make videos everyday and they are 1 our long
Dumb question; what is that tool called that you hit with the hammer to loosen the bolt? On aircraft we used a "screw knocker" in a rivet gun, but yours looks a lot more handy if you don't have the facilities, anyway couldn't get it to pop up on ebay
That's a good 'trick' on how to spread the lower tree without nicking the lower tree. Can't tell you how many times I've held my breath as I've slid a tube out, hoping not to nick scratch the something.
HOWDY Mike, My DYNA Fork-Tubes are smaller but Thanks you for the PROCEDURE I'm sure it will work on smaller diameter fork-tubes, too I especially the Match-Book cardboard & Wood-Chisel trick COOP .............................................
6:45 - Having studied UK dentistry techniques in gory detail, Mike was now able to proceed with forceful grace. (Grace the hex didn't much like that name, in her world she felt there were usually six sides to every story. Y'all : )
Hey Mike ! Thank you for your sharing of your expertise . I recently changed the fuel pump on my 2010 Dyna Wide Glide and my fuel pressure regulator had no metal retainer on it, and the purple (?ground wire?) was broke at the regulator is there a fix you could share with me on what to do about the purple wire that broke ? ( fuel pump harness that came with the new fuel pump did not have the purple wire ) And my new AM pump did not come with pressure regulator retainer or housing . Can you lend me your expert advise on this . Fuel pump still builds pressure without the purple wire hooked up but bike will not start just turns over.
Mike, Love your stuff. I have a 2002 Cartridge front-end on my 1997 FHT (I Know, frankenbike). Can I replace the oil in the left side without taking the front fork apart?
Thank you for sharing. Watched it and very much enjoyed it. I can see someone breaking that lower tree with the wrong thickness of a wood chisel. :( That would be a bad day for someone.
@@pacificmike9501 Wonder if a hard plastic tree fellers wedge would be of strong enough material with enough of an angle for the wedge to spread that upper tree pinch bolt.? Have a similar wedge in plastic automotive door panel removal tool kit that might even be a wider taper...not sure if plastic is as tough as tree fellers wedge...??? Might work as well as cardboard / wood chisel w/o as much "common sense" required...LOL!
Hi Mike, I'm in the process of changing my 07 Dyna stock front end with 49mm x 25.5" long slider tubes, to a Dyna Switchback 41mm x 26.25" long slider tubes. I'm replacing everything including the triple trees, lowers, and headlight. I have to increase the 41mm length, because the stock Switchback slider length is a half inch shorter with a stock length of 25". I don't wanna go down in height so I plan on increasing the length to the next available size at 26.25". My question is, how do I calculate the correct internals to accomplish this? Thanks, John
That's one that changes with the internals. I'm afraid you're on your own. In mixing and matching things from different sets, you have to study those pictures and measure to compare parts. This is what we call "hot rodding." It's mixing and matching to accomplish a specific end result.
Mike, I love your videos, seems like I get more mechanically inclined with every one! I have question in regard to removing the tubes from the triple trees. Mine are apparently seized tight. All bolts are removed, wedge is in place, but nothing is moving? I tried heating the triple tree collars and spraying PB Blaster and soaked them good. Still won't budge. I have even tried hitting the top caps ( with a block of wood) and a big hammer, nothing? Any advice to get these buggers moving? I'm just replacing the seals, can that be accomplished with the tubes still installed , can the seals even be driving in a halved piece of pvc pipe. Thanks for any knowledge you can provide!!!!!
Wow. That's a pretty unusual situation. You my ruin those parts just to get them apart. I don't know what front end you have, so I can't recommend what to do with those seals. It sounds like everything may need replacing.
Thanks again Mike! I did get them out. They were corroded slightly to the lower yoke. I got a bigger hammer and gently tapped the lower up while my son worked the sliders like a slide hammer. Took a few tries but at last success!
I've done a bunch on my 77 FLH Shovelhead. Go to our RU-vid homepage and click on the word "videos." There's 251 videos up, a bunch on my own Shovelhead.
Hey mike hope all is well can I get your advice what is a good ignition system module in the cam cover , and black box under the seat it’s for a 93 FXSTC I think mine has gone to ignition heaven after my 3yr old son left my ignition on for 3 days
Hi Mike, Biker Jim from Massachusetts. I’ve been watching ya but no talk. I have a question ? Since I know nothing about wiring or electrical stuff. I was wondering 💭 if I change to electronic ignition would this help my bike to idle ? Run’s great just doesn’t like to idle. Cleaned out carburetor SS E looks good. Points were adjusted 🤔 💭. I owned this 80 Shovelhead for 11 years now and it never idled good always have to gas it. Any idea’s 💡 ?
Hey Mike! Hope all is well. Met you up in Idylwilde last summer. What’s the next swap meet or event you plan on attending? I want to come say hello. Thanks for the video, will definitely come in handy with changing the fork oil on my low rider. Take care my friend and keep the videos coming. Tell camera man Mike I say hello.
Hello. Good to hear from you. The 28th and 29th is the "Born Free" show in Santiago Canyon. I should be there on Saturday. Hope to see you there. More on forks in the next video.
Hello Mike. Me name is Fernando. I have 73 FLH with a cracked frame. I have the bike stripped to the bare frame. I need a good person to weld/ repair it. I live in Long Beach Ca. You have anyone to recommend? Thanks
Hey. Mike , I’m a bit confused. I didn’t know there was a tapper screen. Where is it located. ??? I know it has a 2 springs in the top of the oil pump which I replaced but didn’t see any screens in either of the ports
The "tappet screen" is located at the top of the crankcase, on the right rear corner near the "tower" on the oil pump. Remove the plug (yours is probably very tight, be careful). With a pair of needle nose pliers, remove the screen and wash it out with solvent, gasoline, or alcohol, and blow it dry. That screen filters the oil that goes to the lifters and top end. It is routine maintenance and should be checked regularly. I check them and clean them every time I change oil.
@@pacificmike9501 thank You, I took the screen out , no sludge in it , put a new ball and spring in ,, took the bike out and unfortunately it’s still dumping oil in the exhaust after I idle some times . Haven’t done the lifters yet..
@@pacificmike9501 no. There are no leaks anymore. The air cleaner and carb intake are clean. The oil is being dumped into the exhaust pipe and coming out white. It only happens when I’m sitting at idle then accelerate.
Just for future reference there is no way those aluminum triple trees are gonna scratch or hurt those fork tubes because there steel tubes. You may be thinking of the old Harley stuff that had steel triple trees. I could be wrong though!
@@pacificmike9501 man i had a heck of a time last night putting on that freakin cap... the lowering kit does away with that long tube spacer. its probably worth it just to lower it and inch and not have to deal with that thing ever again!
Mike, I’ve got to change the fork seals on a stock 1970 FLH. I’m not looking forward to it. Manual helps, yes. However…#&@* happens. If you ever consider changing fork seals on a Shovel FLH, I’ll be watching. 😮
We'll do it when it comes up. You're describing a 49-early 77 front end. Unless the sliders are worn out, it's no big deal. Try looking in a year appropriate, Harley Davidson, service manual.
