How To Measure, Mark, And Install A Three Tab Shed, Garage, Or House Roof Part 2 

Did t notice I was doing that, actually. I really do try to just spit out any information that sets whomever is watching into a place where they have something, anything at all to not be a hundred percent in the dark, as the place where they are at like right here and right now. I haven't been here in a while. Ive actually been the service sept for a local roofing company here in Va Beach for about three years now. Tough job, actually. Ive learned a lot. Ive seen rain leave a roofgo into a gutter come back I side the structure, and leak some 15 foot inside the house, and never would have ever figured it out without the homeowners nephew telling me he could hear it inside the wall. I figured if he can hear it I should be able to as well. He was right, and I happened to have a skill set that could decipher what was happening. Being the service call guy on residential tear-off or any roof work, has problems with it. You have to prove it is not the roof that is leaking in order for the people you work for to get paid, which ultimately means that I have to find the leak, regardless of who is at fault. Ive had to caulk up countless WI Dows to prove the roof didn't leak. Ive had to redo valleys that weren't done right countless tiles as well. But by far, the above mentioned leak was the best, with the Seco d. Eat being one where the design of the standard size bricks themselves were the culprit. On that job, the homeowner called the office and told them he didn't think I was experienced enough to be trying to figure out the problem on his roof. This dude got all new everything. Complete tear-off of shingle. All new decking and I mean all new decking and a brand new TPO roof on the flat, on top of new decking. The roof aint supposed to leak,but it did, and did in a very odd way with little rain. Ya learn to listen to customers descriptions. Words have very definite meanings. You can say 'yo", and just the way you say it can be hostile or passive, or conveying danger, depending upon your mood, their mood, and variety of other things. Language means a lot. Not many people use words or terms like cascading and like a waterfall in normal conversations. Descriptors mean a lot gotta go. Neighbor two houses away jslkki g for a white ankle biter. I have. O idea how to spell it but I'm sure my device dictionary would. And I was actually trying to post a comment to the link below but got jammed up here. I was going to post that his roof sheeting is wromd somewhere unless he has sheeting with no grain or has evenly sized squares in his roof framing, but commenting was not available. I hate that. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-9ZyUXLy4zK8.html

How often you mark

LOL, out in this environment, or any construction environment, nobody carries a phillips head screwdriver with them, so you get rid of a knife like that real fast, and we ain't trying to go anywhere just to change a blade. It's a nail every time, and sometimes that tack head isn't strong enough either. Framing nail, flatbar, etc.

Man, I really appreciate this comment. These guys get really testy on this video for some reason. It's been difficult learning not to react back the same way they attack, but after I see how stupid I can let my reactions make myself look, I guess I'm learning. Thanks for the comment.

This was 3 tabs, which only hang over 6 inches on the end I start on. They wont crack in the cold, but can over-bend in the dead heat of summer if not cut immediately after the bond row is done. On the other end of a section, I always cut my shingles to either a whole, quarter, or half tab before I start nailing them all on. On an Arc roof, I cut pre-cut my books for the end I start on, like most guys do, and on the other end, I tend to cut all my shingles about 2 inches long, and simply cut the entire end with a chalk line. It's easier, faster, and has a better finished edge than custom cutting each finishing shingle individually. And for the record, nailing rows across vs. nailing in vertical columns, takes a lot more time because you have to physically keep moving your body a lot more from end to end, and results in widely staggering keys when that method is used with 3 tab shingles, even if the shingles are run with vertical bond lines. It's the horizontal application process itself that makes that happen, because when running in columns, you can see the ends of all shingles in each column, and easily determine whether or not you have any shingles running out of vertical alignment with the rest of them. If using the stair stepping method of installation, keys will stagger back and forth again, but not as much as with doing the whole section horizontally, because you are still working in columns traveling up the roof for each next shingle. Also, I usually don't even raise any tabs to nail under them while i am actually nailing the shingles on. These roofs are so small that I just go back and do that after all shingles are nailed on, with the exception of when it's really hot and sealing the shingles together that fast.

cheapshedkits thanks for that long hand explanation of the vertical stack method and how it keeps your keys lined up. I had never heard that before and it makes a lot of sense.

I wouldn't say to always follow a rake. I follow mine because I built the shed, but I but I've been in situations with really long rakes on vaulted ceilings on single floor houses that had rakes so bad they required adjusting the overhang just to have a bit of one at the tight area. These three tabs are difficult like that. Arks are great and you can follow a crooked rake, but but with three tabs, you can the keys will look as bad as the rake if you don't follow a straight line, but probably something I should have mentioned in the video but didn't mention most likely.. Three tabs are tough to run and make look good past a couple of dormers too in many cases. I suggest go Arks because they hide so much and look at the etter too.. As for gluing edges, I live in VA Beach and don't have to do any of that. The most I have to do is six nails on any kind of shingle if I go down into Moyock, NC and do a job. High wind area that requires six nails always.

@@cheapshedkits thanks for the reply appreciate it.

I nearly always use gaf 3 tabs. I build sheds where we go get materials from Lowes nearly every time. Both Lowes and Home Depot only keep gaf shingles on the floor. It kinda sucked when they both did that because colors are much more limited since they both sell basically the same, most used colors, but by only one manufacturer. It's even worse since Lowes started only stocking 3-4 colors of 3 tabs at all locations. Used to be that each store stocked shingles based on what colors they sell the most of, so that different Lowes stores would have different colors, which meant that if one store didn't have it in stock, they could tell me which store did have it in stock. Nowadays, all they really stock is golden cedar, autumn brown, charcoal, and weathered wood, or weathered gray, which is the 3 tab name for weathered wood nowadays. It seems kinda odd to only se one manufacturer shingle. Color match is more important than anything a lot of times, and if it's a brand new roof, the client could possibly prefer something else, and it shouldn't really matter to the roofer, because they all get the same nails in them. In the world I deal with every day, there's not much worrying about color match or being picky over the color. Color match means I have to go to a real roofing supply to get 3-10 bundles, and it's so much slower getting materials that way.

You’re gayyyyyyy

@David Schnelker Because the instructions on shingle packages state not to. If you want to know - why not - you should call the shingle manufacturer. All products have customer service people available to answer questions.

Tar line is a seal line, not a nail line. Nails are supposed to be below the seal line in a very small area where manufacturers will warranty the shingles being blown of the roof, just like they require more nails, require use of their special starters, etc. The reality of my world is that that stuff doesn't matter, unlike all the badass roofers on here claim. These badass roofers work under a builder, or do whole tearoff roofs on houses where it may matter. In my world, by the time an insurance claim is made, it's made to the house, and once a payout is made via homeowners insurance, the insurance company doesn't give a damn about the other cost of less than a grand to replace the roof on the shed. I live in a different world than these roofers making their bullshit comments which are only valid in the situations I just mentioned. Sometimes, knowing too much about what you do also limits a man to not knowing much about what else is possible outside of what he knows. I really do already know what these guys are telling me, but I also know it's something that pertains to them, and that I can operate outside of those parameters. These guys would really freal out if they saw me use a stapler on the roof, which, by most local codes, I am allowed to do. The only local codes that would possibly prohibit that would be Currituck County, NC, or further south. But here in Va Beach and the general Hampton Roads area of VA, I'm good. Also, for any other guys wanting to follow up with an argument to this comment, your local building codes do not apply to sheds for the most part. The very most I ever have to do to actually pass an inspection if a shed were to get it are hurricane clips, wind beams, and ground anchoring. I know how to pass my inspections on the rare occasions I do fall under those rules.

@David Schnelker It appreciate your comment and explanation. It's quite alright that you've "never heard" of not nailing in the tar line. The directives I've mentioned are from the manufacturers instructions.

@@cheapshedkits The GAF directions do not state that at all. It says NOT to nail into the tar line and just above the slots in the shingles. LOL. You clearly don't read the manufacturer's instructions at all.

@@JohnBindon LOL what? I said in the reply above that nails belong belowl the tar seal, but above the key slots. That is what i said in the very reply that you replied to, correct???

Love the but a roofer would know that bullshit. Show us how it's done with a video. Do some time at something other than trying to make yourself look smart or cool or whatever it is you came out the mouth with that comment for. How bout do it your way, but the right way of your way and run the 7 inch line and cut the tabs off afterward. But why the fucking comment.

LOL half wavy and half straight as an arrow, huh? We've changes the way we do things over the years. One guy labors for two guys nailing, feeding shingles or keeping them stocked with bundles, depending upon pitch. Hard to start in the center unless it's 3 tabs, which nobody really puts on anymore. They do on these sheds more than half the time, often not wanting to pay the $50 or slightly more for the upgrade to Arcs. I deal with more people wanting to spend less money. That means typically unfinished smartside siding, and they paint it themselves.

Check his part 1 video.

Exactly, but don't forget, this is a shed that takes three or four bundles of shingles, and it's also techniques that have been around longer than any of the things you mentioned, including the codes. Definitely, in this era, do your house right per mfr application instructions, including their starters which will void their warranties. Reality of this situation is that the shed roof will likely get damage after the house and or garage, even with the techniques i used, because the shed is smaller and lower to the ground, and even often protected by trees or the other structures, and in any situation where an area gets widespread storm damage and homeowners insurance is having to fix lots of damaged house roofs, the 4 bundle shed roof replacement is not the number the adjusters are concerned about once they cover the house roof. And also, location means a lot on application of any roof. East coast down south they gotta mud all their edges and collars and stuff in, east coast north they gotta ice shield more but not mud as much, and here in Va Beach, there are no special requirements whatsoever, except for sometimes using a standard mansard nail pattern on three tab shingles when I do three tabs in Currituck County or Moyock, NC. We are coastal, though, and mrf may actually require the six nail mansard pattern on any of the little three tab roofs I do on these sheds, yet local code does not require it. And I wouldn't necessarily say this is a way most guys would do it, but this is the way someone not trying to spend any more than barely necessary would probably do it. And for the most part, modern methods is only for those mfr warranty guarantees only, but at least it is some kind of standardized installation that has minimums it must meet nowadays. Also, sheds again, are different, very diferent in fact. Standard codes don't necessarily work or need to be applied, and local code enforcement is rarely applicable to them. Aside from six nail pattern on 3 tabs, the only other codes I ever am forced to adhere to is anchoring systems for certain size sheds or larger, and in Moyock, roof sheeting nails along the eave side of the sheeting, which basically just means i run a 2x for a fascia instead of a 1x, and the sheeting extends beyond the rafter tail so it can be nailed. And hurricane clips on anything that gets an inspection, which only rarely happens on a 12x16 or larger structure. Twice now, in two different localities, anchoring systems aren't available locally at any of the box stores, and I got the inspector to allow me to build my own anchoring system using galvanized all thread with a nut and big flat washer on each end, straight down on the bottom plate on each corner, then dig a footing to whatever size they tell me they want it to be, and when i get my framing inspection off, I get an OK to pour inspection at the same time. The inspector knows I am not going to dig those holes and set that up on a well built project and then not pour my anchoring footings over less than 50 bucks worth of concrete. Good comment, you hit on all the important stuff and actually just said what time it really is here on this stuff in regards to specs and warranties, which is good for everyone to know so they do actually know that their house will require just a little more specific materials and techniques in order to not make a big mistake that can end up being very costly out of pocket later on.

Its perfectly fine to use an upside down shingle for starter as long as the stice doesn't land on a stice or other opening. A shingle can also be cut for starter as long as as its past half way or it won't cover. May vary depending on area but it certainly won't be the cause of a leak unless there is another issue such as an unusual horizontal incline in plywood.

Just now seeing this. Still it doesn't really matter. I m right handed, but I so I start on the left side of the roof. I I know that's a whole and half tab. It usually doesn't get too bad, but it but on u square stuff, I losing some of the vertical keys on one end, and but not losing all of them, I is about one of the most unattractive things that can happen with the three tab shingles. Get that part right on a rake and force things to work out in the field that is left to work with. Around 3or3 dormers can get really ugly if u don't have a goal of looking very good when ur done.

I just thought of this. On a 3 tab roob, the best cuts you can ever get is the side you start from, which is every other shingle being cut 1/2 tab off of it. If I had a situation where i did not really want a smaller cut to show or to be possibly more exposed to wind that could damage the shingle, it could be a good idea to make sure the roof is started on the edge you want to be the strongest, which may result it running the roof left handed style, but is doable. It's also possible to measure it all the way to the other end and not run backwards, but you'll likely never run it as straight as preferred, and in those situations, it's actually not all that uncommon to chalk the row before the last row and straighten inconsinstities out there just before laying the final row. I've seen Navy inspectors make the roofers do that on every row of shingles before.

I think most guns operate in the 90-120 PSI range. That's for any gun, regardless of whether it's a roofing, framing, or trim gun, I believe. They need that pressure to be able to drive the nail deep enough, or you will have a lot of nails that don't drive all the way in. if it's driving too deep after that, then you use the depth adjustment on the gun itself to make the tip, which is the part that actually touches the roof, get farther away from where the nail comes out of the gun. Any modern roof gun I've seen made in the past 20 years always has a small wheel that you can turn in order to raise and lower the foot that touches the roof, which changes the actual depth that the nail is driven. Roof guns will also blow the nail all the way through every time if you are trying to nail roofing felt with them. You can use it though, by driving it at an angle so only one side of the nail touches the roof, and the other side doesn't touch the roof after the nail is driven. Then you can hit the nail with a hammer and flatten it out. It's hard to nail paper with a roofing gun without having nails blow through. I use a slap stapler for drying in. It's fast, easy, and cheap that way. Also, the warmer the shingles are, the easier the nails will blow through it as well. Check the depth gauge adjustment wheel on your gun. That's probably the problem, or you are trying to use the gun to nail tar paper.

Bang a few nails in If they are going to deep Back off on the PSI.If not deep enough.Crank it up

The starters on the rake keep the top corner of each shingle from curling down, and keeps a consistent straight line from each endpoint because you're applying shingles on a line and not cutting every shingle free handed and trying to end up with a really straight overhang, especially on a long run. Do the freehand cuts after a starter is on and the not so great cuts won't affect the way the edge looks. You just can't get them clean, straight lines without the take starter. And this video was done to just get a fast and working roof on a shed. This ain't the Taj Mahal. It's s shed nobody wants to buy shingles for or spend their Saturday working on. Yes, there are other ways that make it either harder or make it cost more to hide s starter bump on a three tab shingles roof that probably has a pitch so low you can only see it from the second floor corner room the boys stay in anyway, amd it ain't worth it for this super basic video. And nothing is gonna be flying off .this method has worked for decades on the eastern coast of the country. Hell, follow this video for your roof and you will have a better roof than the roofs I see every day now, and I'm the service tech of wholesale roofers in VA beach. The quality in workmanship just isn't there like it used to be. Nowadays, younger s guy that can make 6 nails shoot inn3.5 seconds. Teonste pretty close to the line they are supposed to be on, 5 are on one half of the shingle, one is right where the lap for the next shingle is, one is low and will be a shine until it rains and makes the head rusty, and then you have teonste the other end right beside one another. Half the roofs are just keyed in using no lines, and they skesysbkeybthemninndi fucking high that to take s roof apart forns repair has ended up being s tearoff on that section because they are so damn greedy about not giving enough to work with that it comes down to, especially when it's fixings short bottom overhang..seriously though, the last guy you want installing your roof is the one with the speed record. Fast always equates to less precise and less caring about it being good quality work. It's that simple. There's always a tradeoff for speed, and that is quality, and there's just no getting around that fact. Six nails in locations not ideal, and mailed crooked don't hey actually cut into the shingle due to their shitty angle can't touch four correctly driven hand drive nails. From what I see out there, the roof contractor and the roofer with the crews get what they pay for, and the customers don't really get what they think they are getting. You're probably better off hiring small local guy that runs his own crew because if you don't, you'll get a sub crew, and with that you have no idea of what to expect in quality. Five star ratings are s joke. Overcharge bybdoinlenbefsusrnyoubhave a good Google rating and can finance it,kick 500 or more back in problems and get s bad review removed rather quickly on someone with hundreds of jobs under their name, then give a teonste rating tons giybthsybdoesnnice work but not that kind of work load and you kill jid good tdting. S five star ratings system is about the worst system ever used because the one with lots of transactions doesn't get penalized when hebshouldz and the one with few transactions gets far over oenalized, and there are ways people chest the system by getting people to go leave s review, such as at s party..it's just s bad system if you want quality work done for you. Seek out a smaller company if you want good work done, and don't do the job in extrrme cold or hea

God, really? Every fucking way to run starters has been discussed already, and whose boss you think you are asking where the blade landed on one of my jobs? Wrong jobsite for that question. And big deal on your yrs of experience. That didn't stop you from saying stupid shit, did it?

I sometimes roof over my blades. They are used down to spoon dullness. But a danger to anyone. Any responsible roofer does a good clean up on the ground for things like that anyway.

I don't know which 6" pattern you're referring to, so I'm going to assume it's not for your courses of shingles since that's closer to a 5 1/2" pattern. And let me comment on that a sec. From what I've seen, all immigrant crews are so freaking greedy for 1/8 and 1/4 inches that they won't follow and proven layout of doubles on metric shingles. The layout begins with getting the bottom line first, where they tend to be already greedy..after that line is established, you run your marks by marking double numbers off zero being on that line. 11,22,33,44,55 etc. Now that's already somewhat greedy since the actual exposure is supposed to be 5 5/8", and out doubles layout results in a 5!1/2* exposure. Seriously, that's greedy enough..new generation crews are self learning how to be even greedier, which results in ink lines being exposed in the roof, but worse than that is the problem that srises when the roof has to come apart and BDO whatever it's apart for, then go back together. These guys doing the greedy layouts don't have to do that part of the job. They get so greedy with going outside slecs on exposure that half the time sunroof can't go back together without having more and more of the top part of the shingle color being exposed, making it son's shirt course has to be run just to hide it, or the whole side has to be torn off. And I was wrong on the above statement Doubles lowers exposure distance, which is giving us 1/8" extra overlap, which gives us a little more to work with when the roof comes apart and has to be lit back together. Seriously, if you aren't doing 11's, or doubles off your bottom shingle line, you're being one of those 1/8" greedy bastards and you're doing shitty ass fucking work. Just straight up shitty. And I'm saying this because I stopped building my sheds about three years ago to tskens supervisor position at a local roofing company, and now I am the only service tech for wholesale roofers in VA Beach, VA. I am the one who disassembled the brand new roofs and fixes every leak they get, and they sometimes do more than five tearoff roofs daily. I fix every leak that someone may have tried once to fix. As soon as trying caulk once doesn't work, it becomes my job. I work in the field in less in brand new tearoff roofs that are only days old and hold the credentials to be able to speak on the subject. Now, the 6" layout question. Three tab shingles are the most difficult roof to make look good. Arks hide all kinds of ugly, and three tab shingles highlight every bit of ugly that your probably not accustomed to having to think about. If you step the shingles like you step arks, your keys are going to look horrible. If you want your keys to look good and not look like dog shit, don't stair step the shingles. Run them straight up, trying to finish one at a time to the top.your layout lines must run square to one another in the verticals and horizontals, or your keys will "step" over one way or the other. The same way you can run edge shingles on sn "A" and see the A is out of square to the course lines on arks and nobody ever knows the gable is out, on three tabs it shows up as keys stepping over. Run vertical if you want the keys to look straight up and down without staggering back and forth. And God forbid you have to run them on a one story steep roof with five dormers. Talk the homeowner into arks on that roof if at all possible. Everybody will be happier in the end. But if you do have to run three tabs on something like that, first, my prayers are with you, but again run vertical rows, running them into the dormer from only one direction, and running beyond the dormer below it and above it. when you pass the dormer above and below it, put new bond lines immediately to reconnect the top to the bottom and rejoin forms full height row, and do that until you are done with the main roof, then drop back and fill back in where you have empty spots on one side of sll the dormers. The only place I ever, ever stair step three tab shingles is on smaller A roof where you cannot see key lines from the ground. Anytime your keys start staggering back and forth too much, simply popnannee set of bond lines from top to bottom of sunroof section, which will usually just be somewhere near the center of the section and only on the front main roof, and than run one more time of shingles and cut every shingle to the new bond lines you put on the roof. Sometimes a shingle will come up really short of the line, and you will have to separate one or two shingles into single tabs to get it to look good but not be such a drastic change. Everything shows on three tab roofs if your aren't good at doing a good clean straight layout and following it as perfectly as possible. I suggest not even learning how not to do it next time and just using arks.

you're an idiot, Joe Willis.

So show us how it's done then, mister slick talker. Also, how bout i have guns for everything, including the roof, and wanted to show it with hand drives because most people wont have a gun for three bundles of shingles. Sure, no chalk lines is smart when even experienced roofers can't do it that way and get it straight. Also, how do you get shiners when you already said I'm nailing too high up in the tar line???? You seem about as bright as many others commenting here.

If your using D style, why are you hanging your shingle over?

You dont agree with my trash roofing techniques Joe Willis ! I hate you..

You know, if you have any questions the instructions are written on the package!

Thank you. I appreciate the comment.

Too much lines and chalk on the roof on 5's, when you can key up every other shingle by eye. A roofer knows that It would be different if ya had to drop exposure down below 5 for a special low pitch roof, where you can't key up 4.5, 4, 3.5, or 3 inches by eye, which a roofer knows as well.

@@cheapshedkits ok see all this people talking about why don't you do it this and that way . Everybody has its own way of doing it but one thing is for sure I'm not a roofer my self I'm just doing it on my carport to save money but out of all the videos I have watched of "profession people they talk so much and make it a little confusing , but this video is so far the best I found , simple and explains as you go , made it so easy to understand and learn. Thanks for sharing.

Racking like what? I don't rack 3 tabs. I run them vertically. Keys will never line up if you rack, and running side to side is even worse. Racking is for arcs which hide even the shittiest of workmanship. Probably the hardest shingle roof to do and make look good is definitely a 3 tab roof, but one with lots of dormers.

I don't hand nail. I did hand drive for the video because if a regular person off the street does their own roof, they probably won't have the gun. Same reason for the lines on 10's going up the roof. Somebody with no experience will mess it up without lines. I don't need any lines at all to do the roof. I can eyeball the eave and rake overhang great and can run caps straight too, but i do run my paper perfectly straight so i can keep an even parallel with my shingles to certain lines on the paper. What I did here is exactly what i consider the lines you need and no extra.

and the gauge sucks compared to eyeballing parallel between the shingle and a line 3/4" away. As a matter of fact, a gauge sucks any day and takes too much time compared to spending the time it takes to run 10's on lines.

cheapshedkits Actually, I have no choice but to say you have no clue what you’re doing then.The gauge is exact. It doesn’t move, it’s exactly the same all the time. If you can’t keep your single straight then you’re doing it wrong. I’ve been shingling for 28 years day in and day out. Hand nail, gun, that’s all I do. Half the time I don’t even need to snap a line anymore. And it comes out perfect. You stick to sheds, I’ll stick to city block sized buildings. By the way, it takes longer to put your shingle on the line then it does to set it with a gauge. You’ll learn. Keep at it.

@@Maynardd The do your gauge every shingle, at every end. I'd have to say you're slow and not as accurate as a consistent line across the roof from end to end, assuming your eyes are good enough to follow it. Do you really think you'rte gonna gauge every shingle at each end and end up as fast or faster than following a line, or as/ more precise than following a line??? And fuck your "you'll learn" bullshit. If you've been shingling 28 years, you probably ain't gonna learn. Go watch some of the fastest and most inaccurate roofers videos. They don't use gauges because it's slow, but they nail too fast to be good and accurate most likely. And you seriously think gauging each shingle at each end is high production, huh?? LOLOL, with your smartass talk. Go watch videos of fast guys. My video was slow and by hand for a reason, to show how to do it. matter of fact, make a fucing video and don't be a monday morning quarterback for roofing. It's not hard. Get your cell phone out and prove your point, rather than arguments without evidence. God, I fucking hate a goddamn argument without evidence. Ball's in your court. Break bad on that video like you don't on that roof.

I will not deal with you guys' trolling bitch style bullshit anymore. Last two guys with similar comments were threatened with having their comments deleted, but i never actually did so. This guy didn't even get a warning. He's had his comment deleted while his ass was blocked simultaneously.

Sorry about the freakin 2 year old reply. I've been on a roofing crew and not building sheds. I do all the repair work and leaks and carpentry stuff. Here in our area, Sandbridge and Moyock NC are designated high wind, and 6 nails always on 3 tabs. Arcs call for 6 anyway. And realistically, coastal area would typically be considered a 6 nail per shingle on 3 tabs, and likely is now at this time, but at the time of this video, there was still a bit of a gliche in the system, and 4 nails were still being used on a 3 tab on a shed. But there were no real guidelines for sheds when i started in 09. I could build a 12x16x10 or so shed, meaning full 8' walls, and certain cities would require an anchoring system, but did not spec anything for it, so it was legal to use a kit for an Arrow 8x8 tin shed anchor system on my wooden 12x16, which is a joke.Chesapeake made me use a 4; long treated 2x4 stake at each corner against the runner and screwed or nailed to the runner. Smithfield let me design my own using all thread with a nut and big flat washer through bottom plate and down into a hole dug for a 16x16x12 footing basically on a 12x16x12 mansard shed that had an inspection. I passed my inspection and got an OK to pour at the same time. VB wanted the allthread type system to continue up to top of top plate. Also, in Sandbridge and Moyock, all sheeting is reqd to nain to fascis to stop lift of bottom sheets of roof decking, so everybody just uses 2x fascias to accomplish that. too hard to use a 1x. If u build and are going to use a helicoil type anchor kit (like a 30" dog chain screw in type auger system), you'll probably wanna get that system in as soon as u build the box if at all possible. They suck to try and get in after plywood is on the floor. I have had to do them at crazy angles just to turn them into the ground and be able to sledge hammer them sideways so they wouldn't be all out in the open for people and lawnmower problems.

Another reply based upon a guy's general location and codes he must adhere to. I'm not wherever you are located, and thus do not have to adhere to your local codes. Code requirements vary greatly based upon what state you are in, and sometimes even within different localities within the same state. So, your comment is only applicable to certain people who live in your general area.

So I'm assuming theres no wind where your at?

Break out a bundle of 3 tabs and come up with anything that says I am supposed to have starters nailed at 2 inches from any edge, and maybe I will continue to play your little game. Otherwise, I think we are done. But at least come up with manufacturer application evidence. Hell, I won't even deny it if it proves to be accurate, and I'll even give you the pat on the back you're looking for anyway. But only with manufacturer application specs in a normal, and not a high wind, environment. We good with that?

@@cheapshedkits trolls.. gotta love them. Lol got nothing better to do than try to point out things someone is doing wrong except for the fact that u don't have to put a nail 2" from the edge anywhere except places like Florida where they're allot of hurricane's but I'm 38 & have been roofing all my life & have never heard of a code stating anything like that. I don't put 3tabs on any different than the guy in this video & have never had a problem or complaint

Sorry for the delayed response of 8 months. Never saw this, and it ended up between replied from two and five years ago. For people who have never done this before, lines every other shingle is best, IMO. I assume that's what you're referring to. Lets ya line the long shingle up on a line every time, key up short shingle, and doesn't haf deck covered in chalk. 20's are too much room to mess up for inexperienced. Me, personally, I pull measurements off trim boards. 11 on rakes, 10 1/2 on bottoms, and that's all I do, aside from running paper real straight to use paper lines for reference if its a taller running roof. Or, I sometimes pull 10 1/2, 20 1/2, 30 1/2 etc all the way up off corner of fascia. That results in 1 1/2 overhang and all other lines at 10 spacing. Arcs or metric 3 tabs are obviously different, but most anything metric can pull doubles of bottom line after its figured out and placed, IE 11,22,33 etc. Most metrics are 13 1/4 -3/8. Hang 1 1/2, mark either or those, pull all doubles off that line. That's most, not all. There's metric 3 tabs too. I know IKO has them. These sheds are shorter than houses and closer to the ground. I do overhangs slightly smaller than a house. ppl lean ladders on these rakes as a storage location for ladder. I do always do bottom and rake lines on sheds though. Small misalignments show up faster and harsher on these as compared to the house. I run shingles straight enough to not need any more lines, though, not even on the caps usually.

I have another manly man comment again, I see.

TY

😅🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣hes a ROOFER😅🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣😅

Full starters are not fine on the eaves. If you use a full "starter", aka a full 3 tab shingle as a starter on the eave what happens is you create an area that is 3 plies thick in the entirety of the headlap area of the first course of shingles, extending just beyond the exposure of the second course, causing an eventual deflection of the material in between the second and third courses that creates a little ramp that water has to get over and gets trapped by. This shingle was not designed for this. It's unnatural that there would be an extra ply in there at the starter course; it doesn't belong. 3 tab shingles are only 3 ply where nails are placed(usually a swath of about 1" or so); 4 nails nailing down both course two and course one's headlap(each shingle technically has 8 nails fastening it, not 4), which is then overlapped by course 3, three plies. The rest of the system is two ply. Draw it out of a piece of graph paper, you'll see what I'm saying. Conversely, ridge caps are commonly installed incorrectly, but in the opposite manner. Bad roofers tend to start a course of caps with just a singular cap, and this is a mistake. Caps operate under a similar system and to leave out a necessary ply and also deprive the first cap's leading edge of sealant is a rookie move. These are things that people who don't care about their jobs do to earn a paycheck. Some people just don't give a shit and don't do due diligence to create a future for themselves as a skilled and trained craftsman; they're perfectly fine with sending shit lessons on down the line, sabotaging the entire industry with their fuckery in the process. I have no tolerance for this.

I agree. Beautiful job. I’ve worked with guys who don’t cut starter course in half and not use a vertical shingle on the rake. Hard to find fault with how nice a layout and job this guy is doing.

At least you're right and not being a jerk, either. One of the last guys was trying to tell me that I was supposed to be in the tar or higher. The true reality of this situation is this: We're really not concerned about manufacturer warranty so much. By the time winds affect this roof, the actual residence will be affected more. What besides wind would get a mfr warranty, anyway? Then it'll be on homeowners insurance. By the time they warranty the house roof, the shed either will or will not be covered under their ins policy. I really don't have to fly under local codes usually, either, because most sheds, even if required to permit, don't have to be actually inspected for being to code. I can use staple guns on plywood and roof if I want to, on nearly any shed.

You mean horizontal lines? every 10" from the starter shingle line. If it's metric shingles, every 11". After your starter shingle line is popped, turn the tape over and just start doing 10,20,30, etc. or 11,22,33, etc for metrics. Standard shingles are about 12-12 1/4 tall, and metrics are about 131/4 to 13 3/8 tall. Standard are 36 long and metrics are like 39 3/8" long. Metrics vary in length sometimes. Also, three tab shingles do come in metric sizes, so don't assume a three tab shingle is standard with 12" tabs. IKO makes metric three tab shingles.

Drip edge is not a requirement on a standard pitch shingle roof in Va Beach and surrounding cities.

Lmfao wtf..? Hell no!😅😅😅🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

You were trying to talk shit to me & u dont use drip edge...? Wtf...?

Bob42047bmx you don’t always need drip edge. There are homes specifically built to not have any at all. You should know what you’re talking about before you talk about it. And yeah, 28 years union commercial roofer.

@@Maynardd but that roof needed drip edge.. I personally think it makes a roof better, it protects your facia, looks good & is simple to run.. I mean if the house is designed to not have it cool but regardless of regulations why not use drip edge.? Just seems lazy to me.

Hey dumbass, I have guns for everything. The video was for people that are simply trying to get a roof on a shed, assuming they aren't equipped to do this shit every day.

cheapshedkits stfu dude wya

stop being a little bitch

This is the standard way shingles were run by most people on the east coast before architect shingles and dedicated starter shingles were available. The only thing some guys would really do different if they were doing it the "right" way would be to have one line below the bottom starter line and run one course lower, which would be like a starter you are familiar with today on all the arc shingles, and then just run a shingle on the 12' line. then they would cut the tabs off the bottom shingle, and what is left is just like todays starter. It would be 7" tall with the seal strip at the bottom to seal the first course shingles at the edge, where it actually needs to be sealed. Also, the way i showed, it des have two shingles stacked, without the 5" offset you get by running two courses, and it does result in a noticeable line across the top of the first course of shingles where the second course ends up settling down to the roof deck after it drops down two thicknesses of shingles instead of one. A nice, flat roof will show that on top of the finished product, but it's still beenthe acceptable way of doing a 3 tab roof for decades. Tese 3 tab roofs are the hardest to make look good, because the shingles have the keys in themthat have to run square on the entire roof or it shows. The hardest thing to run and make look good is a steep 3 tab roof with dormers. Arks hide all flaws in imperfect structure and imperfect application, but the 3 tab roof doesn't hide either one. you can't rack these shingles like arks are done. keys will never line up. i mean you can, but it will never, ever, look good and straight. Even on a perfectly square roof deck, it's still hard, especially if you have two guys on one section that run really different from one another. Big protrusions like chimneys and dormers have to have courses above and below them run across pas the chimney or dormer, then straightened back up with a new bond row going all the way from bottom to top again, and to keep it so that the keys keep lining up, it usually needs lines from bottom to top again after passing the protrusion. that will result in some shingles needing to have 1/16, 1/8, 3/16" cut off of them, and some shingles will come up short and not make it to the new bond lines, and sometimes have to be separated into three different tabs that you have to space wider apart to minimize noticing it. i don't build sheds anymore right now. I work in the norffolk/ va beach area of VA for the guy who does all of Wholesale Roofers work, which is the most popular residential roofing company locally. My employer does work for other roofing companies and contractors that sell jobs to homeowners and my boss has the crews. He does his own jobs too, but he does roofs for other people every day, and does sub work for them way more than his own jobs. he keeps up to 7 crews working on a new job every day if they are like 30 sq and smaller. That's like 35 full tearoff jobs per week that goes through his hands. they're hispanic crews with one fluent English speaking guy per job as a supervisor that can talk to customers without confusion of trying to hold a conversation with someone who does not know Spanish. the supervisors deal with that themselves with the crews. LOL, i kept falling asleep in truck too much because it's boring sitting in a truck wheni was doing the sheds for the past ten years, so i don't supervise anymore. i think i upgraded jobs in a way though. i do all the problems with leaks, and i don't have to be on site at 7 AM. my boss does real good doing so much sub work. always got some sweet rides. i'm talking Maserati and Rolls Royce rides, a harley, Chevelle, lifted Denali dually. very smart guy. hope this helped.

@@cheapshedkits thank you I Will have to watch your vids few times to get what you try to teach. Im in Minnesota in summer planing in doing my house so I got time to recién your vids once I did singles in a stop stiyle and notice Was easy to get croked you mention somthing about that in ome of your vids sorry my english Im from México

It's all good I understand what you're saying. i wouldn't put 3 tabs on anything i owned because for like $5 more per bundle or less sometimes like $10 per square, you get shingles that have another 4 years life expectability, as well as getting the arks that are easier to run and hide out of square issues with both the structure and with the installer. but to keep the upgrade cost that low,you do have to get one of the colors that they sellin both arks and 3 tabs and use the 3 tabs for the caps. For GAF, which is the only mfr they sell at both lowes and home depot, those colors are going to be charcoal, weather wood/ weather gray, shakewood/ golden cedar. The name before the / is the ark color name, and the name after the / is the three tab color name. there are other colors that cross over both shingle styles, but those are the three that nearly every lowes and home depot will have, and other colors that cross won't be at most stored, like pewter. I think autumn brown got phased out in arks and the ark darker brown is now considerably darker than the 3 tab autumn brown, but they would probably stil work together. if thy can make the color od the actual caps for some shingles as different from the shingle they go to, ain't no reason why the roofer can't do a color match thats the same amount different i guess.

@@cheapshedkits thank you for the info. I Will practice with my little shed and t The garage.. and then my little house. what air and nailer. Set up you recomend.?

@@joecostu1571 No real recommendation on that because equipment is so readily available. i'm one guy.I don't really need a gas compressor because i don't work the new construction jobs or a crew, so a pancake compressor does me just fine. they are so available thatI buy used and don't work on one when it breaks. They are always around, in quantity, for $50, and i can choose how far i will travel for one i like better via an ad. last one i bought was an upright ryobi, where the tank is situated up and down vs the normal sideways. definitely makes carrying iteasier as the tank isn't banging me in the shin every step, but hits my leg higher up and hits it softly bcthe senter of the tank is against my leg the whole time i carry it. Gun, i have a bosch bulldog right now. i've had it a few years now, with no problems. it's under 200 at lowes. The normal bosch guns have the weird load design, but some guys love them due to their power that drives nails in where the hitachi has a bit of a weak punch sometimes. For gas compressors, most are using rollair or hitachi, or metabo, the new hitachi name. Both seem to work fine. everything is gonna break sooner or later. And then there is no name, or off name stuff. sometimes works great, surpassing name brand, and sometimes not. Name brand or no name, you don't know just how well it will perform util you own and use one. A better angle for you to hit this from is not specific equipment, but angle of approach. The #1 thing i see the Hispanic crews taking a bad approach on is application, specifically of the shingles themselves. Every crew has different measurements, which are measured out perfectly, which always results in spreading the shingles too far apart at times. Don't approach it that way. it is about the stupidest thing to do to not allow a little room for breathing and recovery if something happens. most crews start greedy and end greedy over 1/4 inches, when in the real working world, that 1/4 is nearly not even noticeable as a loss until it gets spread just a little too much and you habe nail lines on the shingles showing. go with lines every other shingle or every 3th shingle, and use measurements that allow a little overlap. For standard, that means 10, 20, 30, etc, and for metric, that means 11, 22, 33, etc. that's after the top of the bottom shingle location has been established, again, not being greedy over possibly overexposure. Bottoms, give it an extra 1/2 inch instead of making it have only a 1/2 inch overhang in the middle. i see those problems with install techniques on the daily. i've seen overexposure, with no kind of extra anywhere to fix it, reguire tearing the roof off to fix white lines showing, but every crew won't change to what was once the normal standard of 11,22,33 that offers a little recovery space. There's not a roof that i go up onto that doesn't have shingles spaced too far apart somewhere or have bottoms, and rakes too usually, that end up below the exposure they were told they were supposed to have. on even the biggest of roofsm the most you will ever gain by all that being breedy over 1/8 and 1/4 inches is the 5 or 5 1/2 it takes for the course of shingles they got away from having to run, all in the name of doing it their way or being jut a little bit faster, and it's just never worth that course of shingles they are doing al this stupid shit of under spec overhangs and overexposing shingle area to obtain. Youhave 5 guys running the highest grade equipment you can get to take off an put back on that tearoff roof that costs in the neighborhood of $500 per square. Those crewsdont get all that. the company that sells either the roof or subs it gets that, and those crews get less than 100 per sq of the money on a labor only deal, buy that's still 2 grand on a 20 sq roof for 5 guys to eat on, and they are done in a day. Still no reason for individual crews to be that greedy on measurements. nobody is going hungry in this deal, but do good work and it does show, and it does getrecognized as being good quality install practices, and you can be thenext roofer drivinga Rolls Royce, and that does happen. my boss ain't no different tan me, and i'm better actually as far as actual skills working on the structure, but he works 6 or more crews per day, knows what the work is worth, and has a Rolls. and he's younger than me too. Roofing is big, big, big business. Anybody can go to the top from nothing, but it will be a lot easier clawing your way to the top if you don't have to go back on stupid shit like spreading shingles too far apart every day.

Ya I'm aware of that, but with these small sheds, that's not a problem. Not so much the case for homeowners insurance, which is for pretty much anything except just high winds. Once they cover the house, which is where the real claim is, it makes the shed look like a doghouse almost and it's either covered or not, based on their policy. The shed roof ain't blowing off without damage to the residence that justifies paying the deductible to make the claim.

Cheap shed dipshit!Who cares about a fuckin warranty.

It's a shed! Who cares if it fucking leaks & we share a video about how to create a leaking roof.?

It makes a consistent edge looking from underneath. Cut just short of it about 1/4 or less and looks really nice on top as well. Mostly cosmetic.

Also, without a rake starter, the outside point of esch shingle will have a tendency to droop down. The bigger the overhang, the faster it will generally start happening. On a 3 tab shingle, a key line in that area greatly weakens it anyway. The tendency for each outer top corner to start bending does is greatly improved upon with the starter shingle. This effect applies to arc shingles as well. Arcs are a two piece design, laminates in the center horizontally, and the nail line is supposed to go through both halves of the shingle. This laminated line is not even an inch wide, and where the top layer has the fake "shake" laminate pard on the exposed part of each shingle, well those areas of the bottom exposed part of the shingle are stronger than the areas that don't have the fake shake part. Each shingle has the fake shake piece about 5 or six times per shingle. The sizes vary, or it would show noticeable paterns. anyway, the spaces between the fake raised shake par of the shingle are weaker, because they only have the area with the nail line laminated. If that area falls at the edge of a roof where the rake line is cut, it can have a tendency to separateevery bow and then, making both halves weaker, and prone to droop more. It's usually the installer not caring enough in really hot or really cold weather that messed most stuff up that can be blamed on the roofer. Mfg defects in materials are more often than not noticed by installer, and shingle discarded, but not always. Twice over this past summer I found GAF HDZ shingles with horizontal slits above the laminate line that leaked and had me sent out to the job to figure out what was wrong, and one ended up being on the flat of a low pitched roof that tied into the main house roof valley. Andd it was dead ass heat on both the install as well as the diagnosis. diagnosis had an additional problem, they had already tried to fv the problem before sending me over, and all shingles in that area were caulkedwith HP1 caulk, which is almost the strongest caulk I have ever seen. It changed the tool kit for diagnosing leaks, and now I keep a couple margin trowels with my kit with either edge ground down to a blace and filed for real sharp. One is a right and one is a left, and both have an untouched edge I can hit and pust on by hand.

You mean knee pads?? LOL, I didn't use then when I was doing tile work, either.

@@cheapshedkits ouch, ur crasy men😆

Did it occur to you that this video is designed to help make someone who has never done it end up with a successful job. Also, we've been through this comment before if you would have read the comments. It doesn't matter how an experienced roofer does it.

cheapshedkits you do us right when you show us the baby steps. Keep it up! My first and only roofing job so far was last week. One car detached garage in the Northeast, 4-6 pitch, I ran three chalk lines but after that just used the tops of each key for lining things up. It came out fine.

You are 100% correct & he would kick us before admitting that. He ran his mouth taking cash shit in one comment defending his bullshit roofing. His mom even backs him up with likes & defensive rebuttals.

Yes they do have a 6 inch marks on the tabs, and the majority of the time if you use them they will throw off your waterlines. Old-school roofers will know what I’m talking about. You should always snap two lines up your rake and go off of them, only hacks would actually use the 6 inch notch, all bundles are made slightly different. Lines make for a better quality job.That’s a fact!

@@Maynardd I wouldn't recommend running 6s just saying if you do.. even if the notches are off you can easily look 2 shingles up & see if your line matches up. That's actually why it's not recommend, you dont want a waterline meeting directly up every other shingle. I only use the notches to center my ridge if I'm cutting them.

Rockies or rookies? U or you? I swear, the freaking basic ass bitches that respond to this simple tutorial on how to run a little roof for the first time in their lives and not crash the job. I can do any roof, and I can frame that bitch up too, ese. Comprende?

I'm calling bs on your square shingles chuy... if you think there all good then you clearly don't pay attention to your material. If he wants to draw lines then more power to him for taking another step to assuring a straight job. You clearly need to learn how to spell before you become an internet cowboy. U critic someone and make a fool of yourself.

Anyone can climb on a roof and nit pick the best roofer. I hate when people do that. I can climb on any roof and nit pick if I wanted to be a jerk. 😄

@@MayonR Thanks. We can all nitpick anything we want to, if that's our agenda. Hell, if a nitpicker starts getting way off course and blaming me for something I had to deal with as best i could, but misses legitimate stuff, I can even help him either do his job right, if that were my agenda. We really are, or have the ability to be, our worst critics. We all know of stuff we should have done better in our own work at some time, and it happens more than we would like probably. This mortal Earth experience has as many imperfections in each human before they even attempt to do work of any kind that will result in and imperfect result, but for about 25 years, depending on many other factors as well, this roo, by these basic install directions, will keep your shed (or any other residential pitched roof 3/12 pitch and higher), safe from leaking and damaging both the structure and it's contents.

What the hell does this even mean???

Maybe your code, but not my code.i have to use 6 fasteners on three tabs only when it's on a mansard.

Chuck Wyatt or a high wind area

15 years ago, everything here was the norm. The only reason the majority of changes came around was for the shingle manufacturers' warranties, which i totally understand them needing to have boundaries for, but the realities here are that most new techniques are for that alone; not even for a homeowners insurance policy. It's for manufacturer liability on materials quality mostly. The only time I go outside the normal 4 nails per three tab shingle in on a mansard,and on rakes. It doe get a little windy here in the Va Beach area, but all in all, no ice shield like farther north, and no cement on adges and collars like Florida. Around here edges like to get damaged by the winds. And the cold, hard, raw truth is: Myu shed ain't gotta be as close to code or mfr guidelines as the house does. The house does, though, to get the ins adjusted to cover it when the shingle manufacturer doesn't have to pay out because it was put on by their standard and with their parts. After the adjuster pays out for the house, the shed will be covered too if it was damaged and it does fall under their homeowners ins. plan. It's a few hundred dollar roof in most cases, compared to a 7k plus house roof. I tell ya though, I'm a magnet for some of the dumbest people on youtube i think. I just never knew roofers could be worse than ol drunk ass painters. I appreciate the comment.

Richard Scanica, one thing I have noticed during comments is that only men try to be slick with comments. Please, clarify your intent with your "slow roof" comment.

Job you did is fine I'm a garage/shed builder as well and prefer to use roofing nailer to speed it up a bit... 🙂

I have guns for everything. 18G pin for temping that I can tear apart easily without damage, 16G for actually nailing trim because the 15G angled finish nailer is caot prohibitive to me for this, 1/4 narrow crown stapler for the doors and sometimes sandwiching windows in between siding and trim, and even used to use medium and wide crown staplers for roof sheeting and roof shingles because I don't like the coil nails because they get damaged so easily. I have a regular coil gun I use now, one of the bostitch bulldog guns for like $179 from Lowes, and it works just fine, and I'm harsh on the guns. I have at least two of every gun, and sometimes run two guns side by side, but it's really not worth the effort if I work alone, because then I still have to try to not keep crossing air lines. I did this roof hand banging just because many people won't have guns, and it shows hand and finger orientation to accomplish that. Same thing with the shed that I did the first real video on. Hand banged everything till I ran out of time and had to pull the guns out. I even cut everything on the ground on that video, when I have folding horses, the template for the doors to use as the bence, and a 12" miter I use for anything that is easier to cut on a miter than it is to cut with a circular. Thanks for the reply.

Again, I did it by hand simple to let the guy who actually has to watch a video to do it see how it's done with hand drive nails. Let's assume he's not overflowing with cash, since he's trying to learn from a video. Lets also assume he won't have a gun, and if he does, he still knows where to put the nails by watching this video. But let's assume he's doing it the most basic way possible, and do our best to help that guy, in that environment. If I don't think that way, I'll probably not be helping the people I'm targeting the most.

I already replied to your other comment on the other part of this video, bitch. Go read it. Stupid fuck with no agenda cept get drunk and be your real self. Simple simon ass bitch. Oh, and I'll be deleting this one too in a couple days. maybe you'll wake up a little more sober and be a normal person and just take care of that yourself like a real man would do. If not, I'll handle it.

Look who's talking your to simple yourself

What does that mean?

It means go get a real job and stop making simple ass videos not your proffession do those fasteners right or do you not know how to

It means go get a REAL job

lol, they're going extinct almost, but for sheds, they are very popular because they are cheaper, but not by much now, and lighter. Half the time the dealbreaker on arcs is the cost of the bundle of caps, but at home depot and lowes, it's all gaf products now, with only like 4 colors of three tabs anyway, two of which have a matching arc color, the charcoal and the shakewood color i think. arcs are just easier to deal with because they hide all the defects that have to be right on 3 tab roofs. Half the roofers around here overlap the hell out of them, cali the valleys, and lucky to even get any lines on a roof sometimes on the regular construction jobs of new and tearoff shingles. Some really ugly work on shit worth 1000x what these sheds are worth. I stopped doing sheds for a while. Took a supervisor job watching tearoff residential jobs, and now all i do is woodwork and find the leaks mostly.