I have been a professional caulker for over 45 years. You have to remove ALL of the existing sealant. You can’t leave the sealant in the gap like you did. But most importantly NEVER use acrylic .( Dap) in wet areas despite what they claim. It is very low quality sealant. Use 100% silicone. (GE or DOW) Professional caulkers never use Dap for anything but paint prep.
The sealant was obviously failing, it’s just not a good idea to install new sealant to already failing sealant. In this example The existing sealant was silicone. He replaced it with acrylic latex. Acrylic latex will not bond to silicone.All of the existing sealant has to be removed.It is never a good idea to not remove all of the sealant.
3:00 When I'm using a long tube like that, and I'm not near the end of the tube, when I'm finished with a job I'll stick a large 4d nail into the opening then put the tube back into storage. The caulk inside near the tip will still set, but having that nail in there means that the next time I need to caulk, I can pull the nail out and instantly have a central channel available where caulk farther back can get out. And the nail can go back in there for another few rounds.
I've tried this, it helps but only goes so far. Once you cut into the plastic housing the clock is ticking, you might get a few weeks with a good reseal
Thank you! This is very thorough and helpful. While I've caulked woodwork, this will be my first go with a sink. BTW - I dip my finger in a weak solution of dish soap and water to keep caulk from sticking to me while smoothing the bead. It works really well.
Thank you so much for this guide, just moved into a place and the sink has no caulking, it's all wet and dirty in there, now I gotta fix it and it's my first time caulking!
Excellent. I have to recaulk my kitchen sink and I wasn't sure what to do, but this tutorial is perfect. Even the tip about getting the tube instead of the gun depending on spacing and quantity. It's just something I didn't think about. Think I'll rechaulk the faucets in my bathroom too. Why not? 😁 Thanks again!
Thank you so much! I just did my 1st sink caulking job and I followed all your tips. For storing it, I covered the tip with the end of a thin twisty balloon, to keep it airtight, then put on the cap.
After a year of COVID-19, we’ve got a bunch of round areas to caulk I can’t thank you enough. We used to bring in a handyman. We don’t want somebody coming into the house now. So we need to do it ourselves. I can’t thank you enough. In the long run, this will save us money.
I can’t thank you enough! I have the same tight gap behind the faucet. The caulk at the wall side was moldy. I wasn’t going to ask a handyman to come in, because of pandemic I tried, but wish I had seen this first. Now I know that using some of the caulk makes the tube more flexible for tight spaces. Your video also showed me that I pushed the caulk too hard. How did you get your finger in there to smooth it? Also, why smooth it at an angle?
So a restaurant i work at has those long drains for the coffee station, would this work am that? Rn the coffee overflows the drain and spill over the side, spilling onto the shelving below.
Should only use 100% Silicone Caulk. Remove the sink and clean up all the old caulk. It will fail again. The stuff he used is a mix of Latex and silicone it will fail due to loss of adhesion over time.
If the caulk looked that bad on the edge it probably wasn't adhering very well anymore. Did you end up taking the whole sink out and re-sealing it yet?
Mister I have some more questions .. how can I write you .. I’m trying to reseal a busted kitchen sink and the counter top around it is eroded .. any suggestions on repairs ? Thanks mister
0:52 I managed to catch the laminate surface with my blade but fortunately that spot was tiny and under the lip of the sink, near the edge of the countertop cutout. Be careful on the angle and pressure used. I wasn't using the little tool shown in the video, I had a long (6-inch) handle tool probably from my painting box that takes a standard blade, probably too steep an angle at one point. I also managed to break a piece off the blade later on, a slim strip at the cutting edge (pushing too hard onto the counter bent the blade too far). Very fortunate it was the blade and not the sink! Just gotcha's from another amateur.
Good tips. However you should always wear latex gloves & a mask when working around mold. Some protective layer is better than none. Never rub your eyes, nose, ears or mouth either. After we thoroughly clean up the job site with a cleaner, as mold & it’s spores can be harmful to elderly, sick persons, children, etc. it’s always a good practice to minimize mold exposure. It can get you very ill, to the point of nasal, lung, throat, brain issues. Mold is also hard to treat clinically- so minimizing our exposure is critical. Cheers.
Being immature since this video was easy for inserting numerous puns....great info though and I used the red tube and it lasts a while if you store it properly!!
You made it look easy. Tried the exact same project with the same Dap product in white, and made a mess of it no matter how hard I tried. I ended up with a large 1/2" "boarder" smeared unevenly all the way around. I went over it several times with my finger, but I just couldn't get it right. So I went at it with a rag, frantically scrubbed to get the excess off before it set, but it just looked ugly in stark contrast with the black countertop. So I "whittled" my border down by ever-so-carefully edging along it with a wet rag, and it took hours before it looked even enough. I got it down to a 1/4" border, but I think that’s too wide. It just looks like a cheap motel job, and I'm not happy with it, but I just settled because I was too tired. . Next day I tried again on the other sink, and this time I tried to apply the caulking more sparingly. I even spent time painstakingly masking it to a nice 1/8" boarder with painter's tape, which was a tip I read elsewhere. Went over it with my finger, then immediately tried to pull the tape off at a 45 degree angle, but it didn’t work out. The caulk was completely ragged and uneven, and parts of it were "floating" off the counter. So after all that, I ended up having to run my finger around it again. But then ran into the exact same problem I had on the previous sink! After more hours trying to "edge" it carefully, the end result was even worse than the previous day's effort. I don't understand what went wrong. I must be missing something, or maybe my counter top shows up every detail because it’s black. I’m not sure, but I’m tempted to try scraping the border area off completely with a plastic scraper. It dries to a chalky matte consistency, and just looks like liquid paper against the black.
Oh man, I was already afraid to try this. Your experience sounds like a nightmare. I wonder if you went back and re-did this? If so, please share your experience. I want to do this around my sink. I want to know how long to wait to let it dry?
On a black countertop I think I would use black caulk and use masking tape on the sink side of the joint to keep the sink from getting messed up. Not every store will stock black caulk.
If the sink is shifting you need to do what he should have done. Remove the sink, scrape the old caulk from the bottom and re-seal with new silicone caulk.
Thanks for the excellent video. Very helpful. I think you missed two points in this video, one is to remove old caulk and other one is to ensure that surface is totally dry also before applying the caulk.
Sir, I have seen somewhere they used soapy water before using the finger to smooth out sealant to avoid the smears. Sorry, I forgot to add they sprayed the soapy water before smoothing out that sealant with their finger.
why am I 70% sure that your race is East Asian from you speaking I want to say your white but I feel like you're East Asian no big deal thank you for telling me all this useful information but I can hear your race by how you talk
