How To | Rebuild Your Front Brake Caliper | Harley Davidson Street Bob FXDB 

Didn't think I would like the silent mode, but enjoyed the peaceful life sounds going on while you we're working. Thanks so much.

That's a beautiful bike. Thank you for the helpful yet simple videos.

Hi there great video,could you please measure the distance center to center for the mounting bolts to the fork tube,as iv bought a Harley project and it hasn't got a front caliper cheers JK

I'm glad PA doesn't do their inspection stickers like this, or I would be screwed lol Thanks for the video. I wish I had watched this before I trashed my rotator, ha ha.

Hi, great video. Just rebuilt my road glide calipers, somewhat similar ones. I used new Harley seals but re-used the pistons. I have a piston that's leaking now. The pistons were really hard to get in during the rebuild, I think I may have ruined a seal. Any advice how I should proceed?

What is the torque required for these callipers? i checked the owner's manual and is not there

Can you make a diagram about which are the assembly bolts versus the mounting bolts? Thx

Great video, I replace the pistons and seals but one of the pistons fits extremely tight, wonder what is the problem.

How do you make sure that you got out all the water and cleaning solution before trying to bleed the brakes?

I have a 2017 FXDLS. I was thinking about replacing the Bridge Bolts on my front calipers with ARP stainless steel equivalents. Do you foresee any challenges with that?

Merci pour cette vidéo .je cherchais justement un tuto pour mon fatboy harley , je possède, le même étrier .

When I do this do I bleed the brakes first? Or do I do it after the rebuild of the pistons

It’s easier to bleed the caliper before mounting it. If you raise the caliper the air naturally moves to the bleed valve.

I was told to only use brake fluid to lube the parts?

What size socket did you use ?

Using the break leaver to push air out of the break lines is very inefficient. It is much faster to suck the air out of the lines through the caliper bleed valve using a 30 or 60 cc syringe and a section of 1/4 inch silastic tubing. I used this method on my bike after rebuilding my calipers and I had the lines completely bled and ready to ride in about an hour. I highly recommend using this method. By the way, using an air compressor to pop out the pistons is a great idea, saved me a lot of time and grief. Thank you

@SingleMaltMechanic Found your video hoping it would give me some insight how to get all the air out of a completely new brake system. But you skipped over that part :( Opened up the bleeder valve on my 2010 FXSTC planning to flush the fluid and install a speed bleeder. Massive fail! The entire contents of the brake lines flowed out! Gravity? This doesn't happen on cars or rear HD brakes. So I'm in the same situation as many on here. Took forever to get a lever back and even then it travels several inches to completely lock the brake where it took perhaps an inch prior to doing this "repair". The brakes are not spongy now but what's causing the lever to travel so far to completely compress the pads now? And how do I fix this? Thanks in advance!

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Nice vid, thank you, however, I think you should have indicated that the rubber seal rings have to go in a certain way. The implication here is that it does not matter which way they are inserted. Just saying

Where you get those bleeder valves from

I just did this job and i can't, for the life of me, get this to bleed the air completely. I've done many brakes on cars and bike both, and never had this issue...

I was going to say something about that inspection sticker plate but I guess I won’t.

What is he washing the parts with?

Don’t mimes wear white gloves?

Why dielectric grease on the back side of piston? It serves no purpose there and will contaminate the hydraulic fluid.

Was nothing wrong with that caliper

It would've helped me better if you would explain what you were doing.