Very nice editing. This style of video is awesome, I’m sure it’s a LOT of work with those tight edits but it does not go unnoticed and makes it all a pleasure to watch. Truck looks sick!
Great stiff brother..... You really do a fantastic job packing a lot of great install bits into the short first 5 minutes of the video.... Great editing and walk through, nice bashing as well..... I think you need a better big ramp for the big boy toys👍
Thanks man I'm glad you enjoyed. Yes for these really big trucks even my big ramp isn't quite enough to go really crazy. Of course if I go much higher I'll be in the neighbor's yard which would also be a problem :-)
Great video, excellent production values! 👍 Install was very clear and concise but still well detailed. A lot of 'smart' upgrades without going nuts! Don't always agree with your opinion (what fun would that be, lol) but the quality of your videos continues to impress! I expect those subs to climb quickly!
Wow great vid man, very well edited and entertaining! How’s everything holding up? Seems to really improve the rotational capability. Awesome seeing double flips in limited air height!
This is an Amazing truck, easily $2000+ build and Im not surprised its so ridiculously strong. Theres only one tiny thing you missed that you may want to consider - The Chassis Bracing. They tend to bend fairly easily although with the M2C chassis they may last a while. The bigger issue is the plastic ends of those braces - they break very easily and everyone I have met with an Arrma 8S recommends the M2C 7075 brace ends.
I actually considered those but in my experience keeping the plastic ends on things like that is actually a good thing. Yes they will break sometimes but they are a cheap and easy replace mechanical fuse. I have found that if you make everything metal you're going to end up breaking something metal and metal is expensive. That's the same reason why I kept the plastic bulkheads and plastic hubs and knuckles.
Awesome vid man. Awesome to see your channel growing! What issues did you have with running sensorless? Ive only run the 1250kv spektrum on it. No issues but ill switch to sensored since there is cogging with 30p/40s spool on my infraction--12s is heavy. Runs great, blew the tires off my half worn hoons at 12s 😂😂. Moving to the 56118.
It has a really bad startup routine is the only way I can describe it. Even with the motor out of the car when you nail the throttle it takes nearly a full second to spin up. This results in a very consistent and annoying hesitation from a standstill. It's not cogging In the classic sense but it's the same basic end result. It's possible that it only does it with some motors which is why I've only heard some people mention having a problem
@DoRC checking back in. I'm getting the same issues. Thought it was just cogging but you explained the same thing. Time to get the 5690 or 56118 motor.
Only thing I'd like is a parts list. I have an 8S Outcast EXB roller. And this looks like a good build. Not too crazy. All the upgrades at the right places.
Okay I'll try and give you a complete one but don't hold against me if I forget something M2C chassis, M2C motor mount, M2C center brace mount, M2C front and rear hinge pin and ABCD block kits, M2C ESC mount, MTC pillow ball retainers, M2C front and rear drive shafts, M2C center drive shafts, hot racing differential cups, hot racing mod 1.5 spur gear, saga mod 1.5 pinion, VG Racing Springs, M2C shock lowers, M2C shock pistons, Max 5G2 and I would recommend using a matching sensored ESC as it doesn't seem to like doing things sensorless. Not 100% certain all of this is necessary but it does address most of the weak points on the truck while still leaving in a flex and everything to absorb shock loads and not be too horrifically heavy.
Nice upgrades! If you know Aldo hit him up he knows the way to run this system uncensored 😎 now you need a bigger ramp to give those upgrades a proper beat down💪🏻😜
Yeah I got some good jumps with the ramp I have but a bit bigger would be nice. I think I would need a bigger backyard as well though as I'm already flying into the neighbor's yard occasionally :-) Yeah I've already been talking to a few people about running it uncensored. Jason Joseph apparently got his working but the method he mentioned to me didn't seem to do anything on mine.
Oh my gosh! This might be the coolest bashes I’ve ever seen hands down. Absolutely nailed it on the upgrades, metal in the right places, plastic in the right places too! I hate those all aluminum builds lol. And THOSE SHOCKS! Absolute beasts! Also great editing, totally satisfying to watch all the way through. I’m gonna sub for the great content. I really don’t say it unless I mean it, but from the content to the rig, my favorite rc video I’ve seen, and it’s by a MILE. Keep up the good work dude 🤘🤘🤘. Also mind if I ask what the whole thing cost you? I’m thinking about copying lol
Wow thanks I'm glad you enjoyed it! I think getting the roller for 399 on the deal It would be about 1600 bucks to copy the whole thing but I'm not 100% certain about that.
@@DoRC close enough an estimate for me lol. But that’s not too bad! I was thinking about picking up an Xmaxx and XRT, but I think I might build this instead. Did you find the roller used? Or is that the price for one new?
@@ridestolenbmx100 That was the price for a new one when they were discontinuing them. I don't know if they're still available at that price. Honestly though I would recommend an X-Max over one of these. It's a fun build and it's a fun truck but I think the X-Max is better.
@@DoRC I’ve had an Xmaxx before lol, I was only gonna get that because of lack of options at that size. With that available I’d rather do that. Something different than another xbmaxx!
Unscrewing them that fast runs the risk of drilling the threads out. Dont let it heat up spinning it like crazy. Too many used RCs are all stripped out.
Maybe so but I've been using The same methods and similar tools for many years now and haven't had a problem. That being said I'm also a professional mechanic with a couple decades under my belt so I have a pretty good feel for these things. I wouldn't recommend someone who isn't comfortable with wrenching use those sorts of methods.
I am running the front rear drive shafts from M2C and I have the non-overkill drive shafts. I like the non-overkill ones because they aren't quite as thick and are less likely to bind on the output cups and will have a little bit more flex. Thanks for watching!
Personally I like sticking with plastic parts unless you know they're going to break. Aluminum is less flexible heavier and more expensive. I haven't broken any of these hubs so I can't personally recommend upgrading them unless you just really want the aluminum.
@@DoRC It wasn’t about breakage concerns. I saw videos of people complaining about the metal pillow ball’s caps constantly backing out of the plastic hubs. I was wondering if aluminum hubs for the front would help with this. I’m getting ready to buy the K8 and my research showed the pillow balls/hub design were a weak spot.
@@i4nic256 oh okay. Well I know that the stock ones tend to back out. The M2C ones in my experience are holding up fine. They sort of jam into the threads as you tighten them up which seems to hold them in place. If you use aluminum hubs of course then you can use thread locker which will definitely hold them in place. Can't really give you a definitive answer just because I don't have any experience with the aluminum hubs on these and limited experience with the M2C pillow ball retainers. I would say try the M2C ones is there a lot cheaper. You could always add a bit of super glue to them which can help when threading into plastic if they do decide to back out. That being said mine haven't yet.
@@DoRC Good to know. I might go the M2C route first since it’s cheaper. Their upgrades seem to address most of the problems they tackle. Thanks bud, enjoy that Outcast 8S…that’s on my Black Friday checklist.
$2.5k well spent🫡. I wanna do one of these builds with my new v2. Am I right that M2C doesn’t make a tower-to-tower brace for the 8s rigs? I know that Custom RC Upgrades does.
No they don't. They make aluminum ends for the stock tower braces but not an upgraded one. Personally I like the stock ones. With the much stiffer M2C chassis They don't really seem to bend that much and I think that with the plastic ends they are a cheap and easy to replace mechanical fuse if something does get overloaded.
@sendtherctothemoon I got them on the VG Racing website. They are listed for the Kraton but they're all the same length And if you look on eBay they list them for Kraton and the outcast. They work great on the outcast at least in my experience so far. Honestly I think they're probably more appropriate for the outcast since the outcast has all the same length shocks.
780 KV King val off of Amazon. It's one of those ones where it's the same motor labeled by like seven different brands. Seems like a good motor though the Max 5G2 really doesn't seem to like running sensorless motors
@JigSawRC any of the sensored motors. There are three that are specified as combos. They're all the same size but different KV. And there's the new 1250 KV motor that I think going to be a great combination. I'll have a video coming out about that very soon
Hey man awesome video. I'm either going to get the new outcast exb rtr, or a new xmaxx. I want your opinion on which to go with based off these builds. Outcast I'd add m2c pillow retainers, 25mm bulkhead screws, m2c brace ends and carbon fiber sleeves (stock chassis), and later upgraded cvd axles. Xmaxx I'd replace with HD arms (stock length) all around, Gpm hinge pin kit, xrt hubs/casters all around, gds 50t spur and a steel pinion, also m2c chassis brace on the bottom. 2085x servo once plastic one goes. Either way I'd essentially be keeping them both stock, I've no interest in crazy power or major weight additions. Which one do you think would be tougher with these builds? Which would be more reliable with moderate jumps/tumbles/high speed rips? Finally which would you pick out of these builds? Any input is appreciated! 👍
At the moment I think I'd go with the X-Maxx. This is primarily because I can pretty much guarantee you that most If not all of the updates that are on the new EXB RTR Kraton Will be showing up on V6 non-EXB versions of everything fairly soon. Some of the things that you're concerned about upgrading will have already been addressed.
@@DoRC I was talking about the newer 8s exb rtr outcast, not the 6s line. Forgive me if I'm misunderstanding, but you're saying things like aluminum bulkheads and aluminum pillow retainers will probably be coming to the 8s line too? They just updated the 8s recently so that's why I was wondering. I don't mind the plastic diff house, like you said keeps the 8s beasts lighter. Don't see them doing a full 8s update for a while now.. so you'd still say xmaxx?
@smoothwookienookie5912 I'm sorry My brain automatically went to the new 6S EXB. I would still recommend the X-Max between the two 8s options. The 8S EXB is an awesome truck but it's heavier than the X-Maxx a bit weaker out of the box and pretty much everything on it costs more to replace. They are similar size especially if you get the wide kit for the X-Max and they fill a similar role but I think the X-Max is just a better platform at the moment.
That's what I've heard. It's pretty unfortunate. It happens even without the motor in the car so it's not actually cogging. I think it's just a really bad startup routine on the sensorless system. I need to talk to hobby Wing about it.
hobbywing max5 g2 have a 1 second delay so you have to programed with the bluetooth module they sell it, you just have to update and decrease the turbo boost on 0 second's.
I tried that and it didn't make any difference on mine. I've tried changing pretty much every setting there is and it didn't seem to change that at all. I will definitely take another look at it though. Thanks!
@@DoRCbecause I meet a lot of people that watch these videos and get the impression that everything needs to be upgraded . I think new people should get a disclaimer
@Shellzwick hmm. Maybe so but at the same time upgrading is kind of an integral part of the hobby for most people. I think making a video about that is reasonable. I saw you changed your original comment. I'm not sure how much experience you have with this platform but while the stock EXB is pretty durable If you're going to be doing serious bashing with it there are some things that definitely need to be upgraded. That being said upgrades certainly aren't for everyone and I can definitely appreciate your point of view on newcomers! I will keep that in mind for future videos.
@StevenYDG69 very true though I will say that I can see where he's coming from. The feeling that everything must immediately be upgraded is something that could turn new people off.
For that level bashing stock would work while being much cheaper. I wouldn't put that M2C chassis on for anything. If stock ever bends I'll replace with stock. It just looks to good not to use. I grabbed 2 when they first went on sale and the one i built has been going strong. Nothing has broken yet and I'm no easier on it than this video. More than one crash I've just known something had to be hanging off but even the wing is still firmly attached.
I've had these stock and have broken them pretty easily with the kind of bashing that I do. Keep in mind that I put almost only good landings in that video and I put several packs in that I wasn't recording. It's had some pretty hard landings. I've broken just about every stock vehicle I've had on that ramp. The stock truck is pretty durable but in my experience other than the 4S Max and the 4S Outcast V2 nothing has ever survived my bashing stock.
ITS THE G2 ESC ... THATS THE FIRST RUN I BET , I HAD HE SAME ISSUE WITH MY MAX8 G2 COMBO ITS AMATTER IF TIME BEFORE YOUR CAPS BURN OUT . I GOT A REPLACEMENT MAX 8G2 AND THERE WERE NO ISSUES
There were several runs in that video. I've run it quite a bit since then and no other issues. Switching to a sensored motor fixed the problem. Honestly I think all of the G2 ESCs have weird problems.
You're welcome. If you're going to use the Max 5G2 I would recommend using one of the new sensored hobby wing motors as the sensorless ones don't seem to play well with it.
@humblebeast7232 oh yeah I actually chose not to get those because I like to keep plastic in certain areas of the vehicle. If both allows for a little bit of flex and is a cheap mechanical fuse if something goes catastrophically wrong.
I would have done before footage but one of the things I do when I make these big upgrades is sell The stock parts off to help recoup costs. If they're used they're worth a lot less. A gravel pit is a good idea. I need to find something like that around here. Thanks for watching :-)
@@DoRC I can see that point. I just started a blog style series called I'd hit that where I go around looking for spots. Any hill in a park or school can be prime. Ya man, I watch everything and I try to be honest and impartial even though I have my opnions haha more bash less bench!💪
They are definitely a lot of fun! Honestly for your first one I would probably recommend an X-Max. These can be really good with a lot of upgrades but the X-Max is a bit better out of the box. Thanks for watching and if you aren't already subscribed a sub is appreciated :-)
Awesome build bro, I recently bought an Outcast 8s EXB V1 roller while it was on sale in July and i plan to put in a Max 5 G2\56118 G2 800kv but waiting on an M2C Bellcrank for the 56118 motor to fit it.
@@DoRC That's cool, Currently i'm planning to put a stock Spektrum Firma 160 V2 with 5687 1,100KV combo and the stock S6510 servo from the V2 RTR into my V1 EXB roller for now just to get it running hope fully by early next year. Kind of got slowed down by my X-Maxx servo going bad and other projects sometime maybe in the future i might put the Hobbywing Max 5 G2\800KV combo in my truck along with a few other parts.
@@DoRC ok thanks! Do you find these new 1/5 bashers to be durable enough? Compared to the smaller 6s versions? I don’t plan to be sending it 40 feet high but for like a bmx track style bash are they just as durable there?
@thepatternforms859 I don't think the 1/5 scale Arrmas are as durable as their 1/8 scale. For normal general driving they're fine but they do tend to break a little more often with heavy bashing.
Mod 1.5 gears are already in it and I had some foam supporting the rest of the motor but I don't know if you noticed in the very end of the video but I did end up breaking two of the screws off on the motor mount. I didn't realize it until later so I guess I need more support. I actually have the 1250 KV sensored motor coming and I'll be doing a video on that very soon. Should be a bit less stress on everything.
@@dualtrondreamteam6811 Well honestly The thing I was most concerned about confusing was the algorithm. Got to get those keywords in there otherwise it doesn't know who to push the video to.
@@DoRC I hope you get alot of views, it's a well put 2gether video and you have clearly spent alot of money getting the rig built! Keep up the good work
Why does everyone get all excited over center diffs then just lock them up with silicone plugs? Does'nt that just lock it up, rendering it basically not there now?
