My favorite method of broken bolt removal 

@@ageek522 Awesome! 👊👍

Yes Sir! 1-the nut gives you something to grab onto, and 2- the heat works it's magic

You actually have to wait until the bolt cools down a bit. Heat expands metal. And the bold will expand when welded.

@@toddmarasse1157You actually don’t have to wait. Stop commenting on subjects where all your experience is derived from everything except hands on experience

@@LandonRoy-cv9rt lol. Ok bud.

You can’t do this in an iron block. It needs to be an aluminum base material and your bolt.

I bet his would have to if it wasn't a new bolt .

Yes you absolutely can. Take a piece of copper tubing/pipe depending on your bolt hole size and fill inside it with weld.​@kevinxcal1

​@@kevinxcal1i have done it many times in iron block, just gotta be careful not to weld to the base material

@@redrustyhill2Absolutely right!

@@Fredtarbosso In vehicle makes for really shitty videos. Lots of blocking the camera...

Yes, for sure you don't wanna breathe in fumes from zinc, work in an open area with good ventilation. But it's I don't see much issue welding 1 or 2 nuts and washers. Would be a problem if you were doing this for 8h a day...

Lol u Germ and fumes ppl r hilarious. 5sec will do nothing 1 hour will... Use common sense

many many bolts on vehicles are zinc plated and them selves get heat up all the time

@@_hanchito_cail. That they do, then the coating eventually goes away

I got poison with sink welding whey young sick so many times my lungs fucked I am only 45 I used 2 drink milk not till get the sickness

@@3rdworldoutdooradventures697 Awesome! 👊👍

@exzirongerth3255 Aluminum head, so no weld stuck to the threads. If it's a Cast iron head the trick is to use liquid paper to paint the cyl head around the bolt to prevent the weld from sticking. 👊👍

@@Gail_Lee Awesome! 👍👊

@salvor1 An exhaust manifold bolt will break from the repeated thermal expansion and eventually just gets sheared off. Once the head of a bolt is broken off the remainder of the bolt/threads no longer has tension on it, so quite often to get it out you just need to attach a handle=welding on a nut

The head is aluminum in this case. If it was cast iron you would need to be careful not tonweld to the head, but it still works the same.

Thank you, I've done a few. Sounds like your weld is too cold, need more heat. Try welding to the washer 1st, it gets you the thickness of the nut closer to the broken stud, better chance of it sticking.

​@@jedlowduallydon't be afraid of preheating it all with a torch. Room temp, to five hundred degrees, has a massive impact. Even 300 degrees is light years different than room temp before you start welding.

@sasquatchrosefarts9131 Yes Sir, preheat can be your friend

same here

@ThePaperBoy187 If the bleeder screws are made of something ferous (ie:steel) It should work.

I just have an old L-tech Mig 220v machine, I just use C25 mixed gas. You can also use a stick welder.

@@jedlowdually Thanks for that. Would carbon steel wire be best for automotive bolts? I guess flux core is not as clean and controllable...?

@pingpong9656 Yeah I just use whatever I have in the machine depending if I was welding sheet metal or thicker stuff. Heat is your primary concern, if .023 is too cold maybe try .030 or something heavier, not that big a deal

Stuff in the way makes for a bad demo vid. But even on vehicle I'd pull the manifold.

Don't work so well when the bolt is been in there for a long time. And is seized

@moparsteve1 You mean exactly like this one was? Yeah, works great actually!

i tried it like 5 time s and the dam nut keeps shearing off of the weld@@jedlowdually

Its gas weld ?

@james10739 If the broken bolt or stud is broken too far down you may lose too much heat trying to weld to a nut. Welding 1st to a washer gets you the thickness of the nut closer to the broken bolt so you have a better chance of welding to it, then once you do it's easy to weld a nut to that.

@User-wollswoycegawage Sounds like you're losing too much heat. Try welding to a washer 1st, that gets the heat of the weld that much closer...

@@jedlowdually I'm getting the weld on the stud I've used what nuts I have about all clean new nuts Some bigger than others Getting stud hot Welding until nut is filled with weld But making sure the weld is good on stud And building it up with a continuous weld Just snaps off

@@User-wollswoycegawage Maybe the bolt is mechanically stuck, like bottomed in the hole or wedged in the threads. May have no option but to drill it out.

@@jedlowdually yes that's what I'm worried about Also gotta be drilled straight Il Try the washer method next Cheer's for advice

@User-wollswoycegawage I've drilled out many a bolt. Just gotta be careful, keep ot straight and don't go too deep... Good luck!

Sure, no problem!

@@jedlowdually I'm going to actually go buy some ez out bits and give it a shot since I'm Mr Low Cash lol. But thanks!

@darrellroireau4061 On these broken LS exhaust manifold bolts the heat from the welding is really your friend, I'd still use heat with an extractor.

@@jedlowdually thanks yes my bro n law told me to use some heat as well. I actually am working on a 2012 VW GTI 😆.

Nope, you can do this without the washer. The washer just helps if the broken bolt is a bit below the surface so you're losing too much heat welding to the nut.

@@jedlowdually I might have to do this tomorrow. My crankshaft position sensor bolt broke in the block and it’s basically flush. Also broke a extractor in the drilled bolt, hopefully it goes well like your vid 😅

@@alexward8596 If it's a cast block, here's a little trick so the weld doesn't stick to the block. Paint the area around the broken bolt with liquid paper. That'll prevent the weld from sticking.

@@jedlowdually you are the goat for the tips 🙏 I’ll update tomorrow lmao

@alexward8596 Good luck. Depending how comfortable you are Mig welding it might take a few tries to get it to stick, but this method almost always works for me.

@@yeagermcbipper9008 Oh sure, there's many factors. A bolt that's too long and gets wedged into a blind hole is a nightmare to extract.

@ChrisBrownRcdaddy24 I go directly to the block or head, needs to be a good clean ground point. Where the battery negative cable attaches is an easy point.

@@jedlowdually good looking man I appreciate it. I have a 2012 5.7 ram and I have a few broken off in the passenger side exhaust manifold

@ChrisBrownRcdaddy24 Yup, common on the Hemis, the LSs and even the Ferds

@donnyroberson2498 Good Job 👊👍

edit: ...weld them later.

You can still weld to stainless bolts the exact same way, even with standard steel wire.

​. Thanks so much!!!!!!

@@Brian-ii6sd 👍 You bet!

​@@jedlowdually brother, I got an old 1976 Trans am with the 400 pontiac engine 6.6L and Im trying to upgrade the heads. I found old high flow GTO heads from 1967 that'll flow Great, for $200+shipping. The alternative is spending $2700-$3000 on new aluminum heads. The only catch is the old exhaust manifold and its bolts are still attached to it. Maybe thats why hes selling cheap... im just intermediate level. I know how to weld but these exhaust manifolds seem like a real B*tch and i dont want to ruin the head just to still have to drop 3 grand on the aluminum heads.

Still my prefered method. I just pull the inner fenders and go in thru the wheel well.

I just use C25

@jackeroo75 If the area around the broken bolt is steel then you need to take precaution NOT to weld to the parent material. You can paint the area around the broken bolt with Liquid paper and that will help prevent it. Other than that you'll have to decide if anything else will be affected from the weld.

@@jedlowdually can I use aluminum to shield my water pump and surrounding area?

The block, or you could thread a bolt into the head and ground to that.

@Super-Bike-Joe Well if there isn't, what donyou even have to extract 😜

@@dinje7090 You bet! New bolt threads right in with your fingers!

@@user-ml8dm9fz6l One way to find out, but my guess would be it's wishful thinking.

@briholt100 Cylinder head is aluminum. If it's a cast head or block you'd want to take extra precaution not to weld to it. Old School trick is to paint the area around the broken bolt with liquid paper, helps the weld to not stick to the parent metal 😉👊

@@jedlowdually so I've got a broken extractor bolt, inside a broken bolt, inside an aluminum intake plenum (22re). Liquid paper? Like white out? Thank you for your information

@briholt100 Shitty, I'd still use this method, weld don't care if it's a broken bolt or the extractor...

Some things aren't for the average do it yourselfers...

tackled a thermostat housing yesterday it ended up going into today just finished up an hour ago

@colinhume5164 This was an aluminum cylinder head, if it's a cast head you need to take some extra precautions.

@@pattwidale4045 No, not always, but quite often.

The cylinder head on thisbone was aluminum, so no worries there. If it was Cast iron you have to take some precautions not to.

@@jedlowdually sweet cheers man, would help if I learnt more about welding 😄, I just use helicoil sets for my broken bolts

@@jedlowduallymy scooter has a broken stud , and the block is aluminum I think, can’t the weld stick to the aluminum?

@Apro._ if the head or block is aluminum welding yo a broken bolt or stud with a mig or stick welder will not stick to the aluminum. It's a different material than the bolt.

Your weld is too cold. Hence why you'd use the washer 1st, to get closer to the broken bolt so you lose less heat...

@@jedlowdually thanks I ended up drilling the bolt out and installing a helicoil, the broken bolt was too deep for a good weld

​@@zdravkomomci7570if its too deep, try using a piece of copper tubbing to build up the weld to surface level.

I don't see why not.

What type of welder did you use and how hot were the settings

@angelf9800 I have a 220v Mig welder. Settings will depend on your machine, and the wire size you are using.

@@475girish 👊👍

@ratherbefishing4225 On LSs I go thru the wheel well.

@@jedlowdually ya that was the only way I could do it on this one too. Ended up getting it done with the Stud X-Tract electrodes but it was a miserable experience

@@ratherbefishing4225 Victory 👊👍

Yes you can. That's how I removed manifold bolts from a 7.3

@@benscarpulla5840 It didn’t work for me, had to redrill and rethread with the $500 special kit . All good as new

I'm not a fan of flux core mig welding, but yeah, shouldn't be any different, as long as you have lots of heat.

Mig welder, or are you asking what brand.

I've done this with a cheap gasless mig welder, not as neat as this but worked fine

No, on sheet metal yes, but not a cylinder head.

@@Kevin-vv6oe 👊👍

@@jedlowdually Last yr removed broken starter bolt on a CB 750 Honda took 3 tries . So yeah 👍

@Kevin-vv6oe Still way better than using an extractor any day!

@rustybaws5313 Might depend on the lugnut material, like if you were talking a cast wheel lock bolt I bet the weld would just shear off and it wouldn't penetrate till you got down to the steel stud.

@@jedlowdually yeh it was a locking bolt. It just sheared off every single time I tried!!

@@rustybaws5313 Yup, that's because the puzzle key part is cast crap unfortunately.

😂 Well, I suppose you could aluminum weld it...

It works great! Beats any extractor or drilling!

No, the head is aluminum.

I'd do this over any extractor any day!

I wouldn’t say “works well” on this application, as they are often very tight in aluminum heads.

@jeanlawson9133 Nope, was not.

Just a 220v Mig welder. Can also do this with a stick welder.

Do you use flux wire or what kind?

@@iamangus4319 I use a Mig with sheilding gas

😂 Well, there is natural selection...

Mig welding

Thanks a lot.

@@bakeromar2063 You can also do this with a stick welder.

Yea, But this looks much easier.

@@smh2754 👊👍

@@Tigermeg816 So Satisfying too!!!

@@jamesguralski5156 Still my preferred method, you just go in thru the wheel well. Pull the plastic inner fender...

@Bobcatspiritdude 😂 Well yeah, this method is kinda dependent on that! You can use a Mig or stick tho!

Often it is 😉

These outer exhaust manifold bolts tend to sheer off on their own after a couple hundred thousand miles due to the thermal expansion of the manifold...pretty common

You've never worked on an old car then 😂

@@thomasjefferson6334or a Ram with a Hemi

@@kennybeck5519 I'd say it works a good 90% of the time.

No, if it's not too deep I'll just weld to a nut.

On an aluminum head? Yes…. Use a washer

@@nitrochaney1026 The weld won't stick to an aluminum head.

​@@jedlowduallyThank you for better educational! I have never thought use washer at base for bolt

@ronaldwoofer5024 Actually lots of people do...doesn't need to be a Mig, you can also do this with an old stick welder!

You lose the feel of the bolt breaking loose or not with an impact.

@jedlowdually it either turns counter clockwise or it don't? I can feel it just fine.

@@justinriley8651 Yeah, but more chance of the nut breaking off with the impact

@jedlowdually if you've done this alot you know sometimes they break off . more than once if it's really seized.

@@justinriley8651 or if the weld doesn't take...ain't my first rodeo 😉

You know it!!!

@user-jd5qn1sf7v Oh I have, but I would use this method over any easy out !

@@marathon8649 😂

@busted2010LT Oh no! Cast iron head? You've gotta take extra precaution not to weld to the head. One trick is to coat the area around the bolt hole with liquid paper, it helps prevent the weld from sticking to it.

😂 Nope, my nose didn't grow!

@mk4gli26 Is the weld not sticking to the broken bolt? Usually it's insufficient heat.