Very helpful video thank you! I know it’s a bit older of a vid now but I’m having issues with my distributor on my base ‘87, it’s been leaking and causing smoke from the hot engine, I’ve been thinking about replacing the whole thing with a new crank sensor and all but also want to check the connecting plugs first, I’ve pulled them off before but didn’t really know what I was looking for. Does my z31 have to be on and running to check the sparks on the 6 plugs? Any help you can give me is much appreciated, thanks.
Run the engine and pull the plug wires at the distributor 1 at a time.. you’ll see and or feel the spark lol that same test can also diagnose dead or low compression cylinders
I have a whining sound coming gfrom the fuel pump , no lights work, ignition doesnt light up or work but the power windows work, the over load circut burned thru the wire any idea whats causing the fault? the car hasnt been started for 2 years.
I recently bought a 1985 na z31. It runs rough but after seeing this I’ll start replacing things one by one but my main problem is that my car won’t pass 60mph. Not only that but it struggles to get to 60. Any idea what may cause this. Thanks!
My car idles well runs good when pass 3k rpm but runs little rough lower rpms and causes car to feel like its lunging when accelerating and going thru the lower rpms until you get above 3k rpm then smooths out. Any suggestions?
Fuel pressure regulator most likely but could also be fuel temp sensor on the fuel regulator and or cylinder head temp sensor which might keep it in cold mode if it’s staying in cold start mode
As mentioned to John Rodrigo, they're normally called blower resistors. You may have to end up sourcing a used one, one from a different make/mode, or retrofit a resistor of your own.
They're normally called blowers resistors, that's what controls the speed to your blower fan ... you may try searching for "z31 blower resistor" or something along that.
What if I have spark and fuel and I did the timing and ignition timing I checked those multiple times and it just wont start I did the tensioner timed the engine and it kinda ran if you kept the pedal floored as soon as I fixed the intake tube replaced the tube close to the intake it wouldn't start
Also check for vacuum leaks. Mine would try to start but die right away. I left a hose unplugged. Try unplugging your maf sensor and see if that changes anything. If it starts with maf unplugged it might just be a big vacuum leak
@FleetTech97 Can you elaborate more where the vacuum leak could be coming from that caused it for you? I've replaced so much after my car hasn't been running and like you called out, I did discover the car runs with the maf unplugged. Next is to check for a vacuum leaked but want to know what and where it did it to yours
@@XevilangleX LOL it was 5 years ago so i cant remeber really i do miss that car as far as that engine though i junked the vg30 and i put in an lm7 5.3 v8 with a rs5r30a 5 speed from a z32 and it was an awesome car
