Part 1 of 4 How to install Drop-in anchors to mount a manual tire changer 

The anchors have a cone-shaped metal slug inside of them that you are driving down when you hit the set tool with the hammer. The cone shape of the slug pushes out on the slits and acts like an expanding collet to wedge the anchor into the hole. The red stuff you pointed out is just a wax or plastic disc to keep the slug from falling out.

I'm doing the exact same job right now, thank you for documenting this brother! It's my first time drilling reinforced concrete and setting anchors. I can't wait to use this tire changer!

FYI, since OP here, and I did too, used 1/2" bolts, you need to enlarge the holes on the tire changer. Then when you go to drill the holes in the concrete, it's difficult to center the holes correctly. What I did was to buy a short 1/2" SDS concrete bit and grind the sides of the cutting head to 1/2" so it can be used as a centering tool. You need to do this because although the shank on the 1/2" concrete bit is 1/2", the cutting head part is slightly larger, and so it won't fit though a 1/2" hole in steel. Now you can drill a shallow hole though the pre-drilled hole in the steel support into the concrete, maybe 1/4" or so, then remove the steel support and switch to the 5/8" bit and finish the hole for the anchor.

Back in my younger days, we didn't have electric hammer drills or concrete drill bits,, so we used a star chisel and a 2-3 lb "drilling" hammer to slowly "drill" a hole in the concrete. We would then hammer a wooden peg into the concrete and use a lag screw if we didn't have the lead sleeves for the hole. The lag screw would expand the wood or lead to fill the hole. Quite a few carports got walls added to them to make an extra room on a house back then using this method to anchor the walls to the existing carport concrete slab.

Good information I'm just setting up a home tyre changing machine and am getting the parts together and was not sure which type of ground anchor I needed (drop in or sleeve) so you helped explain as I plan to bolt it down for use in the limited space in my garage then unbolt it and put it to one side out of the way when not being used **top tip if anyone plans on bolting and unbolting the tyre changer like me then cut the head of a bolt grind a slot in the top then with a flat head screwdriver screw it flush with the floor into the holes to stop dust and grit etc.. getting inside** Next I'm gonna make the duck head modification that fits on the top post it looks like it makes it so much easier to change tyres, thanks Clint from little old England

Solid Country Gold !!! another idea is to use the hole punch to start your holes so the drill doesnt "walk" off center.

I like your vids man, nice job.

Excellent! Thank you!!

Wish I had seen this video before I tried bolting my tire changer down. Would have been alot easier for me. Live and learn. ;-) Thanks for posting this even tho I didn't see it in time.

DIY'ers .. The U Channel is 1-1/2" tall and drilled to 10mm (roughly 7/16") holes. Consider these numbers while shopping hardware.

Thank you for documenting this. Super helpful in determining what I need to mount my tire changing tool.

Very good video thank you for the tips. My first time drilling concrete glad I went out and got a hammer drill from what you said.

Most excellent I wasn't familiar with different anchor types and got no good help from the local home improvement store, even though I now see that they have these in stock. Going to mount mine in the shop over the weekend.

Towards the end of the video, he mentions the most important thing: avoid walking the drill and resulting misalignment of the four holes. Drill and mount only the first anchor using the tire changer in place, then drill the remaining three holes using the tire changer's base as a template. DIY fun. ENJOY !!! Additionally, I would recommend using an epoxy adhesive, such as JB WELD, during insertion of the drop-in anchor, because the lateral forces applied over time will eventually loosen the anchor and tear it out of the concrete. The package label lists the anchors as being temporary devices for attaching hanging structural hardware for pipes, drop ceilings, etc., and are designed only for static load. A stronger method for anchoring the tire changer stand would be to forego the drop-in anchors entirely, and instead to drill four 1-inch holes 6 inches deep and using THREADED ROD COUPLING NUTS, attached and welded to 6 inch length of threaded rod, and filled in with concrete epoxy while held in place bolted to the tire changer stand as a template. The longer structure will withstand the lateral forces much better than the drop-in anchors. An even stronger way to anchor the tire changer would be to use THREADED ROD COUPLING NUTS attached to threaded rod, sunk into the soil and thusly filled in with hi-strength Quickrete mix to a minimum depth of 6 inches, covering an area 48 inches square. Yes, this would mean digging out the existing concrete floor to such dimensions and pouring new concrete on top of preset bolt holes. ENJOY !!!

Excellent info. I am planning on mounting that same tire changer tomorrow and your video is going to make it much easier. By the way, i have a hammer drill lol

Great video thanks for your tips, even though I understood the concept of installation, it just helps to see it done once.

super helpful. i got the sds drill. super easy that way

Nice! Just what I was looking for!

Thanks for the help, I figured it out wrong myself. Lol but will now fix it

Helpful video. Getting ready to buy the same tire changer and was looking for info on some sort of removable anchor bolt because despite having a decent size shop, i dont have room to leave the tire changer mounted permanently and dont want bolt threads sticking up out of the slab.

I have a useful suggestion. To clean out the four holes you drilled, i would use an air compressor, not a vacuum. Just be sure to wear a respirator. You do not want to inhale concrete dust. Concrete dust contains silica. Silica wreaks havoc in your lungs if inhaled.

That was great advice about drilling the one hole. As good as I am fixing just about anyting I'm really not too good at driving nails or drilling a straight hole. That really makes sense about how to do it. I'm looking forward to watching the rest of the videos for this project.

$250 later and I’m thinking maybe I overdid it on the hammer drill recommendation. ;) (cordless DeWALT XR PowerDetect DCD998). For that price maybe I should’ve been looking at SDS or SDS+ hammer drills!

Crystal clear Best instructed Like & Shared

For those who have done this - what length ½-13 bolts used, please ?

Thanks!

What was that grey goop you used? Was it just a filler or some kind of epoxy?

Dude that shop vac is sweet

Nice

Good tip, I would have tried to drill them all ahead of time

Thx. Dont feel bad I've made that same mistake marking multiple holes instead of just using the thing I'm mounting.

very nice. you might want to buy some silicon plugs for sealing the holes so you can put the machine aside when not in use.

These anchors have a "spendy" look to them, maybe old fashioned expanding lead anchors with lag screws would be less expensive? Congratulations on having the stamina to drill the holes without a hammerdrill, that cement floor must've been pretty soft even then! Edited to add: I checked the cost and the lead anchors are 3 times the cost of the ones you used, if the setting tool isn't included. My bad.

The size of the bit is it 1/2 inch also

I assume these aren't removeable? Is there a way to do this so the tire changer can be mounted and unmounted

I did the same thing and about the third time I used it pulled out of the floor

Thanks for the video. I wanted to know how to use drop-in anchors to mount the same tire changer, so this couldn't be more spot on. What length of 1/2" bolt would you recommend for this?

What you REALLY want is a rotary hammer, even better than a hammer drill. But very special purpose so unlikely to buy it if this is the only job you've got. $100 at Harbor Freight, takes a special drill bit style and can't be used for anything other than beating on stuff.

Wich is better anchor bolts or drop in bolts

Why not just concrete in some all thread rod ?

If you have drop in anchors that are 1/2", then why is your bit 5/8? Wouldnt you use a 1/2" bit for 1/2" anchors?

Allso you only drilled 2" deep,but the manual says drill at least 4". So Im getting the idea the manual doesnt matter concerning certain details as long as you adjust your anchors to the appropriate size.

What size and type of drill bit did you use?

I got the same setup. How long was your bolts?

How to get this machine purchase

5/8?? The manual says to not use a drill bit larger in diameter than 7/16 in.

That music

Please tell me

I bought this product. But I can't punch hole on rented parking area. Lol

Looks like the drill is runing in reverse

I haven't had too hard of a time drilling 3 inch holes in concrete garage floor with 18v drill and masonry bit, takes a few minutes with plenty of water but is better than buying another one trick pony drill. I used lead anchors, tap in place and the bolt does the spreading. Seems like a lot of drama over a non event.

Well done but I have no idea why you put gasket sealant around the anchors. That won't accomplish anything that I know of.

Great anchors but the tool is a waste of money. Any peice of metal smaller than the thread diameter will work.