QUICK Meguiar's Hybrid Paint Coating How-To Guide 

Hi, apologies for being late to the party. Can this be used as a topper over a ceramic coating? A year ago I fully machine polished & coated one of my sons cars with ADS Metal-Oxide which so far so good & still looks & behaves as it did day one however, if we can extend its 2 year life to 3 or more all the better. This appears easy & quick enough for him to add protection for his coating hence the Q. Any thoughts very much appreciated. Many thanks, wishing you success, health & happiness. Mike S

@@mikesloper7112 Hey Mike! I am not personally familiar with that coating, so I cannot say for 100% sure, but in general I have found that coatings that are fully cured and performing properly do not allow for much to bond to them. For example, once Hybrid Paint Coating cures for an hour or so, after that if you attempt to add another layer it will almost entirely fail to bond - mostly just filling any potentially missed or weak spots. That said, your idea is a sound one and it can still work, but I would say give it another 4-6 months for that coating to age a little bit. In my experience once the hydrophobics dip down enough that the coating only slowly pushes away soapy water, rather than rapidly, that they generally will allow for a top coat to be applied and bond. Again, it can vary by coating so I can't speak to that specific one, but that is usually the case. In the meantime, I would suggest using either Meguiar's M799 PRO Hybrid Ceramic Bead Booster, or Hybrid Ceramic Detailer as a drying aide and final wipe-down after washes. This will put some added sacrificial protection, while keeping the hydrophobics that allow for the benefits of self-cleaning to stay at their peak. Hope this helps. -MK

@@MarkusKleis : Many, many thanks for your thoughts & expreience, it is very much appreciated. (ADS: ArtDeShine Metal Oxide Ceramic Coating, it's exceeded my expectation already on my son's car & will be going on my daily as soon as I can properly prepare the oem surface with road rash & a mountain of stone chips to flatten & blend. If you get the chance you wont be disappointed) Thanks again, wishing you success, health & happiness .

Can you use bead maker as a topper?

@@dankuhn7496 In theory, yes. It will not harm it, but it will actually make the coating seem to perform worse because Beadmaker has a far lower contact angle. Beadmaker will also attract and hold onto more dust and pollen than the coating. Lastly, know that ANY topper will struggle to stick to this coating for at least the first six months and so as soon as you wash it, they will wash off completely. You can still use toppers, just know that as soon as you use combined physical agitation and a chemical cleaner they wipe right off. Me personally, I stick to Hybrid Ceramic Detailer or M799 to top this coating as they do not attract dust/pollen and they have a higher contact angle. -MK

Thank you for the kind words! -MK

You bet - glad you like it! -MK

Awesome! Thanks for sharing your experience 👍

I love this type of feedback! So glad I could help, and thank you for the support and taking the time to let me know about your experience. -MK

Hey Julio, how has the Hybrid Paint Coating been holding up?

Thank you! -MK

Thank you for the kind words, I really appreciate it! -MK

Heck yeah - now you can see why I love the stuff so much :) -MK

Thanks for sharing your experience John! Glad it served you well so far. Please do keep us updated! PS, look for a new video in a few days filled with some pointers about how to wash and dry a vehicle to KEEP it looking its best :) -MK

Thank you! If you need any help just let me know!

@@MarkusKleis Thanks for the advice!

Will the M122 remove this product later for touch up paint prep?

@@jonb703 No, the M122 will not remove the coating. But if you did want to touch-up the coating down the road I would recommend using a chemical iron remover first (Like D1801), washing, and then using M122. As long as the coating has died back some, you can follow that process and apply it on top of what remains and it will bond fine. If the coating is cured and still strong you would need to compound and polish, then M122, then apply new. Let me know if you still have questions.

@@MarkusKleis Just finished doing the front end of my car today. This was repaired and painted last Sept. Wanted to get a good strong coat on now that the paint has had plenty of time to cure. Looks and feels fantastic! How much paint chip protection will I get out of this? Many products advertise 9H. This product makes no claims. Also, when I need to make paint touch ups with this on, the steps you laid out above will be fine for paint prep? Of course, I will need the paint to bond. So, once this is on, you can't get anything (including this product) to stick/bond without surface prep? Still learning when it comes to these coatings rather than waxing. Found it extremely easy to apply but hard to see visually. Had to go by feel and methods for full coverage. Lastly, you can wax on top of this? I have many different Meguiars and Turtle Wax products. Including the new Graphene line. Still not sure when to identify the end of this product's lifespan. Guess 1 year is close to accurate? Waxing is easy. Just apply when you want too. I appreciate all your time and advise!

Hi Jordan, Glad you like the videos! Leaving Meguiar's was not something I was looking or expecting to do, frankly. I loved it there and am extremely grateful for my time with that organization - the people were fantastic and I learned SO MUCH. Long story short, I was approached by a persistent head hunter and was presented with an opportunity to expand my responsibility and take on learning parts of the business I wasn't able to affect as much in my role at Meguiar's. I am obsessed with learning and perfecting my passions and crafts, and the idea of getting to learn more about the retail side of the business (I was focused primarily on PRO / MARINE / RV), as well as switching gears from primarily developing chemicals to primarily developing tools and accessories was very appealing to me. I figured it was the best chance for me to round out my knowledge and expertise on the auto detailing industry as a whole. And yes, I am very much still on good terms with the folks at Meguiar's as many of them are dear personal friends and neighbors ha. I even got a sneak peak tour of their new headquarters! :) Hope that answers your question. -MK

Lol. Yeah, that was me. I don’t usually have a beard. I just get lazy from time to time 😂

Yeah, I would expect a ceramic sealant that only lasts a few months to be easier than a coating that can last a few years. It’s nice to have both options :) -MK

So it won't stick when the coating is still fresh and strong, but when you notice that the hydrophobic properties have dipped down to a level where you would normally want to freshen up your wax or whatever else you would use, at that point you can use an iron remover (chemical), do a deep wash, then wipe with the same M122 Surface Prep and apply one coat. You won't need two. Should you want to REALLY dive deep on this, check out my Deep Dive video that is 47 minutes long on this coating and basically everything you could ever want to know about it :)

Thank you very much! If you are unable to keep it inside for the first 24 hours, my suggestion would be to try to get the coating applied earlier in the day and then let it sit out in the sun all day. This helps accelerate the curing. If you get dust or dew on the car you can use fresh, clean, quality microfiber towels and just use some water to make them damp and very gently wipe away any contaminants. Use a second towel to gently wipe the area dry immediately after. Do not use pressure or any detailers or other chemicals for the first 24 hours as they can mix with the coating and potentially affect the coating slightly. Don't stress about it either way - short of it getting down poured on it should be fine!

Thank you! For your first question, as long as you wait the 24 hours, rain will have no measurable effect on the coating. I would just gently wipe away whatever road residue is left after you get the car off the road with a damp microfiber so that it isn't settling into the coating. But aside from that, I wouldn't worry about it - you won't notice any difference. As for your second question, after a year or so all you would need to do is a proper wash, then chemical iron remover, rinse, and then use M122 Surface Prep over the vehicle and re-apply like day 1. I have personally tested this and it works great. It will not work after 6 months as the coating will still reject it, but around a year or so it dips enough to allow the new coat. Let me know if you have any other questions! Thanks for your support!

@@MarkusKleis Got it! Thanks for your advice and looking forward to more videos! 👍

Hi Justin, While not ideal, if you can at least work out of direct sun and not in a dusty area, you can apply this outside. Keep in mind you run the risk of dust contamination leading to some light swirls when wiping. Aside from that, this coating is abnormally friendly about less-than-ideal conditions. -MK

Thank you! This coating will fill the fibers in the towels and it will actually make them feel super fluffy after you wash them... but it does it does clog them. I have relegated the used towels to shop towels after use as the towels will no longer absorb liquid since they become hydrophobic. I have actually been meaning to test a few solutions to soak them in immediately after use and see if it keeps them from getting clogged. I will report back when if I find anything useful!

@@MarkusKleis thanks for the info!!

Short answer; if you have a coating that is still performing well, a new coating will likely not bond to it. But if it is aged and/or lost the hydrophobics then you can perform a chemical DECON, followed by a panel wipe or surface prep and then coat as usual. Following this same logic, if down the road the coating stops performing everywhere you can just refresh it with an additional layer. -MK

@@MarkusKleis thank you very much!!! Hope you continue making videos!!!

Thank you! My answer to that would vary based on the condition of the paint, how close to perfection you want to chase and what type of polisher you have/are comfortable with. But I will answer for now and you can respond with more details and I will revise accordingly :) I personally use M110 Ultra Pro Speed Compound the vast majority of the time as my go-to compound because it is so user-friendly and finishes so well. When we developed M110 our #1 measuring stick for it was that we wanted it to be the compound that we ourselves would genuinely want to reach for when we were doing our own projects. If the defects are moderate to slightly than that, use a microfiber cutting pad/disc on a DA polisher with M110. If the defects are REALLY bad, you may want to try M100 instead as it has a little cut (but slightly lower quality finish). You can then follow with either M205 or M210 polish. M205 has a tick more cut than M210, but unless you are working with VERY sensitive paint either one works just fine. I M210 for the ultra sensitive paint, but the process is slightly more nuanced so I generally M205 for a non-pro. Let me know if you have more questions. -MK

Hi Gary! So the one thing that concerns me is the age of the paint. In the testing we performed we found paint with significant UV exposure PRIOR to coating was less likely to enjoy the same level of performance and durability as fresher paint. Now, given that you are in Maryland and the sun isn't as intense there as here (SoCal), you might still have a chance but I would highly recommend a DEEP cleaning and prep process that involved a physical clay bar or synthetic clay PLUS chemical iron remover (D1801 for example), followed by at least 1 stage of polishing. The polishing will be essential to both deep clean and remove any potential dead paint on the surface, giving ANY coating a much better surface to adhere to. You can try it without polishing, but don't be surprised if you don't see the same performance out of whatever coating you go with. As for winter cleaning, lots of folks turn to a rinseless wash method using a product like ONR (Optimum No Rinse) and a bucket or two in their garage. Use hot water so it doesn't freeze your hands PLUS it helps cleaning. -MK

Hi Andrew, I think you posted twice on accident, so I will carry over my answer here and expand to the stuff you added. Yes! We tested it mostly in Minnesota, actually. It was put on daily drivers and test panels and tested on the road, outside and in the lab. It definitely faced salty roads. The testing including putting against what the industry considers top-tier pro coatings. It performed very well. One of the main strengths of HPC is extremely high chemical resistance. The only thing I would say is that the key would be regular washing. It's the dwelling of contamination over an extended period of time that causes the most damage to coatings. I think you will be very happy with this.

It will clog them for sure and make them hydrophobic. I have actually been meaning to finish some testing about immediately tossing them into a bucket with some sort of solution to see if it stops it from setting. I do not yet have a final suggestion, but in the meantime you could try water mixed with some sort of degreaser - either D108, or maybe even dish soap. I will try to test and report back. As for what happens exactly, since this is a flexible coating it doesn't make them crunchy, it makes them almost feel fluffy as it fills in all of the rough edges of the towels so they no longer have crevices or voids to pick anything up.

@@MarkusKleisappreciate the detailed reply, I really enjoy your channel... try P&S Rags to Riches that is really good stuff

@@gorillanismo Thank you! I haven't tried that yet - but heard good things. I will make a point to pick some up, thanks!

I do believe it is officially discontinued in the US at least. I stockpiled like 25 bottles of it haha. Mirror Bright just didn't get the momentum it needed to justify keeping it alive. It was a really cool concept and the products were all solid, not a loser in the lineup, but the old school vibe just didn't resonate quite the way they had hoped. I LOVED the detailer... smells so darn good.

Hi Timbo, Thank you! It will cure in the towels and applicators - it actually makes microfiber feel super fluffy and soft, instead of hard and crunchy. I haven't really put any serious effort into trying to save the applicators or towels, but I know a lot of folks throw them immediately into a bucket of water and APC and let it soak and then wash them with other coatings. I have personally just relegated the towels to different roles as they are no longer very absorbent at all. Next time I apply it I will try to remember to try the bucket soak and see how it works and report back. -MK

Hi Andrew, yes! We tested it mostly in Minnesota, actually. It was put on daily drivers and test panels and tested on the road, outside and in the lab. It definitely faced salty roads. The testing including putting against what the industry considers top-tier pro coatings. It performed very well. One of the main strengths of HPC is extremely high chemical resistance. The only thing I would say is that the key would be regular washing. It's the dwelling of contamination over an extended period of time that causes the most damage to coatings.

Hi Mark, Simply polishing will do the trick. I would also suggest performing a paint decontamination prior to polishing to maximize the cleaning and prep of the surface. -MK

Hey Paul, No, it should be fine once it cures. I would avoid getting in on the coating for the first week while it fully cures. That said, I would spray your glass cleaner into the face of the towel rather than directly onto the glass - eliminates the over-spray issue :) -MK

Hi Trung, it would be best to try to remove as much as possible before applying HPC. There are a few options - you can use a degreaser in your wash process (add to your car wash), do one step of polishing with a fine polish, or use a wax & grease remover. If the car is still very hydrophobic then that means there is a lot of HCLW still there, so you want to try to get it to behave like it isn't waxed. Now, a little bit leftover is okay - testing showed that the coating can actually punch through some of it and still bond. You just want to try to at least knock it back before applying over it. Let me know if it doesn't work (trying to remove the HCLW), or if you have more questions.

Just to make sure I am understanding, you mean on the paint on the rear dually fenders? What products have you tried so far? And how often do you usually wash your truck? -MK

Hi Jorge, yes this should be fine. 👍 -MK

Hey James, that sounds extremely odd. Makes me wonder if the surface is damaged in some way. The images I think you tried to post are not showing up. Please email them to me paintcarespecialist at gmail -MK

It works great on wheels - I have put it on several and gotten about a year of noteworthy protection from it. I put it on my Raptor wheels which are a satin black and it looks and performs great. After close to a year and a half at this point I am not about to apply a fresh coat. HPC has very strong chemical resistance, better than most coatings, so it actually makes it ideal for wheels that face various cleaners. I use D1801 Wheel & Paint Iron DECON most often and it seems to have no effect on it. It also doesn't seem to have any adverse reactions to the heat.

@@MarkusKleis Awesome thanks so much for the feedback Markus!

Hi Tom, No sir! Rinseless and waterless washes work fine. I also rotate between different wash styles based on how dirty the vehicle is, how much time I have to dedicate to the wash and how lazy I feel like being that day ha! -MK

Hi evo77 - if it is just a few degrees, you should be fine it will just take more time to cure. If it is more than 6-7 degrees below, then I would recommend using a heat gun or something similar to carefully warm the panels. Be smart and safe about it and check the panel temps often. But the heat will help the curing process. This is true for virtually all coatings. -MK

Hi there, So different car washes can use very different chemicals - and I am guessing the issue you are facing is from their drying agent which is coating the surface and covering the coating. It's tough to know exactly how tenacious it is (and what the chemistry is) to know exactly what would remove it short of acid (water spot remover), but I would personally start with a more concentrated ratio of Meguiar's Hyper Wash (it is already 3x more concentrated than normal 128:1 washes). I would let it dwell a little (foam cannon or spread by mitt and let sit for 30 seconds) and then give it a good (gentle) but thorough contact wash. See if that does the trick. If not, you have the option of trying a water spot detailer for a final wipe-down after the wash which will remove any missed/fresh water spots while boosting the gloss and potentially remove the chemicals from the tunnel. Extreme Marine Water Spot Detailer is an example. Alternatively, although not directly achieving what you are after, you could use a detailer like Ultimate Quik Detailer which is simply going to make the finish crazy slick and smooth and although it is only coverings up, that may *effectively* give you what you are after in the easiest sense. I know - not ideal - but man, those tunnel washes can really leave some super tenacious stuff that really sticks to the car. -MK

Hi WGK, I would use a chemical decon product (iron remover) and then just apply like you did the first time. That easy :) This should work well on gloss PPF or vinyl as well 👍 -MK

Hey Paco! Great catch - I re-watched it to see how I worded it and I think I just failed to say UP to an hour. Since I was working in the cold at the very bottom of the temperature range so I wanted to give it just a little extra time to set up a little bit more. Normally, you want to get to the second coat WITHIN the first hour. Just so it is clear, if it is low 60s or less, wait 1 hour, but 70s and above, try to get the second coat on there within 1 hour. Thanks! -MK

@@MarkusKleis Thank you so much for your prompt response! One last question, I like to use McKee's 37 SIo2 (5%)Hydroblue as a spray-on/rinse-off drying aide/topper/booster. Can I still use this product on the Meguiar's paint coating? Asking since the MeGuiar's does not contain SIo2 and wondering if I should switch to a polymer based drying aide like P&S Beadmaker, but I would prefer to stick with McKee's Hydroblue.

About one second should do. Adjust as needed to make sure it spreads a nice thin even coat on each panel. -MK

Hey Mathew, no worries. Some folks toss their towels immediately into water with some APC or degreaser and let them soak for a while, and then wash them without letting them dry first. If you do this, you might be able to use them again - if not for paint, at least for some cleaning. It will definitely clog the microfiber and make it less absorbent if you do not do something along those lines. Unlike some coatings, this one actually makes the towels almost feel more soft and fluffy instead of hard and crunchy. -MK

Glossy vinyl, usually no issues there. In my experience with the matte or satin vinyl, it seems to have varied based on the condition and brand of the vinyl. Sometimes it works, but sometimes it comes out blotchy on any satin or matte vinyl. It's really hit or miss and unfortunately it's kind of impossible to know without trying it. If you do try it and it looks blotchy then the best solution is to basically keep layering on more product and gently working it into the area. It will continue to darken it as you do, but it should even it out in the process. Over time, it should lighten back up some but you do risk making it more of a dark satin than a typical matte finish. It's kind of a "try it at your own risk" type of situation when it comes to applying just about any product over matte or satin finishes - they are just very unpredictable. -MK

Final Inspection is fine, but keep in mind that any spray waxes, sealants or boosted detailers will temporarily cover up the hydrophobics of the coatings and actually make the coating seem worse. When the coating is still fairly fresh they will wash off as soon as you perform a contact wash, though, so it's not that big of a deal. This is why I suggest something like M799 or Hybrid Ceramic Detailer, but even those have a slightly lower contact angle than fresh HPC. As for the towels, they will most likely be ruined from applying HPC - but it should only take a few towels. -MK

@@MarkusKleis Hmmm... doesn't really seem user friendly. Meguiars normally provides high quality microfibers, would be shame to throw them away after one use @ a $62 price? Plus all new incidentals that must be purchased like the recommended detail spray? Also wondering what happens if repaint work must be performed, what about contamination such as fish eye , solvent pop, or worse yet peeling or delamination ? As of now I am still very much afraid of all the new coatings on the market and will stick to good old fashioned polish and wax

Hey Mathew! Something definitely isn't right here. The two most likely scenarios are that either something kept it from bonding in the first place, or something contaminated it before it cured and compromised it. Shoot me an email so we can discuss ways to troubleshoot and try to fix it. It would also be helpful if you could send some pics or videos as well. paintcarespecialist at g mail is my address. -MK

I didn't get an email from you yet - let me know if you still need help and I will see what I can do. -MK

For the first several months you really don't need anything at all. In fact, if you used no toppers at all and simply washed it properly and regularly you should get 12+ months of protection. That said, using Hybrid Ceramic Wax or Hybrid Ceramic Detailer (or M799, the pro version) as either a drying aid or a refresher from time to time will not hurt anything and provides a little extra sacrificial barrier. You can also use the new Hybrid Ceramic Wash & Wax to maintain it - but again, it isn't super needed right away because it won't let much anything stick to it anyway. It's totally optional. I have videos on M799 and also on the Wash & wax if you are curious to learn about those. Hope that answers your question!

Hi Pedro! Yes, ideally you want to get existing waxes or sealants off as those could mix with the coating and reduce the effectiveness of the cure and bond. If you do even one step of polishing that should remove the wax. If you aren't going to do any polishing, I would add some APC (a few ounces) into your wash to help break it down during the prep wash. If you can get your hands on a true "wax & grease remover" product, you can also use that to wipe all of the paint down, THEN M122 Surface Prep, then coat. If there is a little bit left you should be okay - the solvents in the coating tend to punch through even with a little bit left. Hope that helps!

@@MarkusKleis thanks

Hi there! Thank you for your kind words! The end results from these two will seem pretty close in the beginning, but you should get about double the durability and maintain a higher tier of slickness and hydrophobicity for longer with HPC over Can Coat. Considering they are basically the same price, I think HPC is a no brainer. :) -MK

@@MarkusKleis I appreciate the response! I think I first subbed when you posted on the detailing 101 Facebook group. I hope you get the viewership that you deserve!

@@notsodelusional Thank you very much! Hopefully in due time :) -MK

Accurate! I just suggest a quick second coat if you skip the polishing. It should take about half as much product to do the second coat vs the first. -MK

@@MarkusKleis As a professional installer I make sure the paint looks as good as possible but some never coated a car and don'tknow all the steps, this seems to be perfect for a lot of people.

@@MrRedex88 Exactly. This was made to be very forgiving for DIYers, but still totally viable for pros. -MK

@@MarkusKleis I'm about to give it a try on my truck, I got it for 20 bucks so hey, I'm good 👍

Hi Jim, thanks for your kind words. I would actually do the whole vehicle with the first coat and then repeat the process with the second coat. What’s the weather like? As for the existing Hybrid Ceramic Wax, ideally I would remove that first. You can either do a light polish or use a Wax and Grease Remover before starting the process. Either should do the trick. Then use the M122 and apply as usual. -MK

@@MarkusKleis Thank you for the reply Markus. The weather here in Michigan (metro Detroit area) has been mostly in the low to mid 70's for the last few weeks during the day. I would think I would have to apply the MeGuiar's Hybrid Paint Coating in either the early morning or late afternoon to avoid direct sunlight to the car while applying since you want cool panels because I would be doing this outside. Would that be correct? And if I do go with the second coating, do I have a time limit to do so or just start right back applying the second coating to the first panel I started with on the first coat and do the whole process over. Lastly, on the light polish or wax and grease remover, what brand/product # would you recommend to use? Thank you again Markus for your expertise and help.

Hi Gavin! With any true coating you always want bare paint as the way this product functions is by chemically bonding directly to the paint itself. Things like waxes, sealants or even residue from compound or polish can interfere with that bond. My advice would be to either do a light polish, then proceed as usual and use the M122 Surface Prep as that will remove polish residue, OR, if you want to avoid polishing the whole car you would want to get a more aggressive type of panel wipe classified as a "Wax & Grease Remover." Meguiar's doesn't sell one, but there are several out there and they all perform essentially the same function. That will allow you to wipe the product on the paint (AVOID high gloss black plastics and rubber!) and it should easily remove any wax or sealant. Then simply use the M122 and proceed as normal. Let me know if you need any specific advice related to any of that. :)

@@MarkusKleis thank you so much for the detailed reply!! I’m going to do just do a light polish on the painted surfaces to remove the sealant. What would you recommend to remove it on the other non painted surfaces such as the lights? The car also has some PPF on it, so I would assume I would need to use maybe just an IPA wipe there? Sorry if any of these questions are stupid, I’ve been detailing cars for years but a bit new to the PPF and ceramics.

@@turboviper Not stupid at all! This is getting into some unique and advanced stuff. I would actually use the same polish on the headlights or other glossy plastics just the same. You can also lightly polish PPF - as long as you use a fine polish and a gentle enough foam pad, it's fine. When PPF ages, I sometimes do a quick polish to clean it up - the material itself isn't all that different than clear coat. The HPC bonds to PPF very well! You will love how much slicker it is and how much easier it is to wash and dry. -MK

@@MarkusKleis wow I had no idea you could polish PPF! I can’t thank you enough for all of the valuable knowledge! I’m excited to tackle the task now, where before I felt unsure. Thank you so much sir!

Hey Mike, the product wasn’t designed for matte surfaces. As such, there’s no guarantee it will work. It might work fine, it might be splotchy. The problem is that it’s impossible to know for sure without trying. I have personally had good luck on matte surfaces, but I know others have had hit or miss experiences. -MK

Don't be too afraid of it being there too long - remember, it won't high spot. If you wait too long it will be more work to wipe off, but it won't be the end of the world. That said, my advice would be to spread it, wait 30 seconds, then take the applicator without adding more product and work the area one more time with circular fast motions, then immediately wipe off the excess residue. That should do the trick. Also, if you do 2 coats, you will need to immediately do the second coat after doing the first coat because it will cure faster and then the second coat won't be able to bond. Hope that helps!

@@MarkusKleis should I go around the entire car before doing the second coat? I ask because I applied a traditional coating, and the bottle said a second coating has to be done within a hour to increase durability. I’m pretty deliberate with the application so I was only done with 3/4 of the car by the time the alarm went off. I ended up just doing one coat.

@@el__2handed If you don't want to be stressed and want to play it safe, do half the car at a time. No harm in that.

@@MarkusKleis appreciate the tips, Markus.

It works exceptionally well on PPF. I am at 18~ months on my PPF on my truck and it is still going very strong. I would wash, iron decon, then evaluate and see if you want to do a LIGHT polishing or not on the film, and then either way do the M122 surface Prep wipe that comes in the kit and apply.

@@MarkusKleis How is it on glass? My model X is a lot of glass.

@@fhamre By itself, it doesn't bond well to glass. Glass is a different beast and the bonding mechanism it requires (for a coating, not a sealant) is different. I would use something else for the glass.

My advice would be to try to get the truck coated as early in the day as possible and leave it to cure in the sun for the remainder of that day. IF you do that, the little bit of dew shouldn't be an issue. In the morning just use a a few clean microfibers to gently wipe everything clean and dry and you should be golden!

@@MarkusKleis thank you

Hi Chris, you can use any of the Hybrid Ceramic items over this coating AFTER it cures for a week. That said, nothing will properly stick to it for at least several months. So if you use the toppers they will come off when you wash it the next time. But eventually as the coating degrades a little bit, they will start to stick more. -MK

Clear coat is extremely thin so I doubt you saw a particle slide or retract under it. That particle would require a magnifier to see. Something like a grain of sand or smaller. Polishing is abrasive itself and cleans the paint while removing a thin layer of the clearcoat at the same time. No need to wetsand to remove contaminants.

@@elisicamost5959 I understand the thickness of clear being incredibly thin, even though it's most assuredly going to be the thickest layer on a panel. When we consider something 60 ish microns thin to be a decent healthy layer then it's obviously going to be incredibly thin. I actually took a course from Kelly Harris otherwise I wouldn't have even known about the differences between things like sinkage and orange peel, or the phenomenon of paint pinching but I can assure you that I've seen actual surface contamination work it's way into the clear on two different freshly painted white cars (both happened to be done at a body shop right next to a semi-active railway). Obviously the real fault here is that the shop isn't properly baking things but I seldom find any other defects in their work. But there's a surprising amount of body shops that prefer to let the panel cure slowly to avoid solvent pop as they consider softer paint the lesser of the two evils and I admit I sorta see how it makes sense from their perspective. The other issue is that it can also be caused by somebody not knowing what they're doing with paint correction and doing something like letting an improperly prepped panel get too hot, causing the paint to swell and sealing the imperfection into the clear as it then cools down. This is the main reason I believe most people that have been in the industry for decades prefer spot wet sanding to remove actual defects and then polishing out only the light stuff, as you're really likely only going to be removing 3-4 microns with a polisher itself. During the course he actually took readings from the same spot which he kept track of with a laser and ended up removing 4 microns of clear with the wet sanding and another 3 with the polisher, for a total of 7 microns which I found fascinating as I assumed it would take more than that to fix the defects. It's obviously not the same thing as being there, but he actually did an hour or so long video on the Lake Country RU-vid page going through a lot of the same concepts in the course I took, albeit the video is more condensed. If you can find the time and money I would 100% recommend any of the courses he teaches at lake country, but if you can only find the time I think the wet sanding video he did is fascinating as well and definitely worth the watch. Anyway back to the original point I was just hopeful Markus had some secret or something to try after all his years at Meguiars and deep knowledge of detailing products. I just hate going through the process of it when it's really the only defect on a panel, but overtime it's likely to work itself in deeper and cause issues so it's still best to address it I guess. I've thought about stuff like deliberately heating the panel itself and trying to get the deeper stuff but I feel like that's just begging to introduce more problems and be more difficult.

Interesting topic. To be honest, I am not 100% sure I have ever wondered or worried about chasing something like that. I would look at it this way - if it is that small that it could get embedded that deeply into the clear/paint, is it really necessary to dig it out? I think sometimes we (I truly include myself here) overthink things and chase perfection a bit more than we should. I am guessing any particular that deeply embedded that after both chemical and mechanical decon methods it is still there, it probably isn't big enough to really be visible anyway by the time you finish correcting and protecting the paint. All of that said, if there is something that deeply embedded that IS a concern and/or you simply must get it out, yes, sanding is likely the best way to attack that. Just keep in mind that OEM paint jobs are getting thinner and thinner by the day and sometimes you have to consider if chasing something that deep will do more harm than good in the end. Does that make sense? -MK

Hello, You wouldn't need to do anything like that for at least 6 months in most cases. If you put it on while the coating is still strong it will come completely off after one wash. But after you see the coating start to slow down a little, yes you can use that liquid Hybrid Ceramic and it should be fine. -MK

@@MarkusKleis thanks for the great video. I just applied this product on my small suv. Phew 😥! I’d say I did an 80% ok job - certainly not as good as how you showed it 😄 But boy, are the surfaces super slick now! I’ve got the car under wraps for the next 12 hours as it looks like it might rain and even though I’m under a porch, it’s still exposed to wind and spray. Here’s hoping for a good result in the coming months! 👌🏽

The short answer is because it's (FF) completely irrelevant. What if I told you that the inclusion of "ceramic," "graphene," or whatever other buzzword you want to pick for your coating was not even necessarily the most important part of what makes a good coating? The reality is that Meguiar's set out to make a new and updated ceramic coating (compared to the M688 they sold internationally as their pro coating, followed by M788), and after years of development and testing countless different formulas they actually were able to achieve better durability, better self-cleaning and better chemical resistance without ceramic than with it? Do you know why ceramic coatings universally demand that you wash them with pH neutral car washes? Because sio2 is inherently weak against caustic material - that is why they provide a relatively narrow pH range of what you are allowed to wash it with. Why? Because sio2, aka silica, will actually dissolve in strong acids or alkalines. Of course, there are ways to use ceramic materials to get fantastic results with various types of chemistries. Including coatings. I am in no way saying ceramic coatings are bad. But the notion that a coating MUST be ceramic to be "a real coating" is marketing nonsense. HPC has nothing to do with Fast Finish from a formula, performance or development standpoint. It was created by 100% different chemists with an entirely different type of chemistry. In fact, the formula wasn't even developed to be an aerosol - it just so happens that it ended up in one, but it just as easily can be applied without propellant just like any ceramic coating. The term "Polymer" is inherently EXTREMELY vague and broad. Did you know wood is a polymer? Along with millions of other things. The polymers used in FF, along with the rest of the formula, are completely unrelated. FF is a sealant good for about 4-6 months. The 1 year claim was based on a lab test that did not translate to the real world. Meguiar's realized that, owned that, and completely moved on from both that formula and that test method when it comes to defining durability claims. The new method is FAR more in line with real world results, and is very conservative at that. But don't take my word for it - apply FF to half of a good, and HPC to the other - then document how they compare and tell me how long it takes to see that they are more different than alike. Then report back! Would love to hear your findings. Hope that helps clear it up a bit. -MK

The gloss is fantastic - lots of people that have tried it comment about good glossy it looks. That said, the most important part of creating gloss comes from the prep (compound and polish) BEFORE the coating, regardless of which coating is applied. -MK

Yes, you can. I would only caution that it is hit or miss on matte wraps or surfaces, but should be safe for most satin wraps. The key is applying to the applicator not the wrap, and then massage it thoroughly to get even application. If for some reason you do see uneven patches on any matte or satin surfaces, apply more product to the applicator and re-work that area immediately and then immediately remove the residue without waiting. But for any normal gloss wraps or PPF, definitely works awesome! -MK

In this video I was just using my old piece of junk SunJoe that is about to die. I have a nice new AR Blue AR630 TSS waiting to take over once my electrician comes and upgrades the electrical in my garage. For the blower, I use the Hercules 20v Compact blower from Harbor Freight (where I work). I bought this with my own money about 6 months ago and absolutely love it. I use it to dry every vehicle - it's great for wheels, lug nuts, cracks, crevices, all of that. I use a 5ah battery and I can do 2 cars to 100% dry on one charge. www.harborfreight.com/20v-lithium-ion-cordless-compact-200-mph-jobsite-blower-tool-only-56417.html

Hi Clint - love hearing that! Regarding your Studebaker, because that does not have a clear coat using a coating (just about any coating) is risky as it can be really hit or miss how it looks when it cures. They tend to not soak the coating in evenly, which can result in a splotchy appearance. Unfortunate, but I personally wouldn't try it. I would stick to something along the lines of Hybrid Ceramic Wax, or the professional version the M27 liquid sealant. You can then maintain it with either Hybrid Ceramic Detailer or the pro version M799 Bead Booster with simple wipe-downs. Hope that helps, although I know it wasn't the answer you were hoping for. -MK

@@MarkusKleis Thanks for the prompt response. Honestly, this kind of is the answer I was looking for as it moves me in the right direction. Thanks again and I look forward to more of your videos. Clint.

@@MarkusKleis hey MK, regarding the clear coat & single stage paint” deal.. my dad has a white 2011 Toyota Corolla and I was wondering if I should use this product on it? I didn’t know for sure if those cars have clear coat paint bc Ive noticed they get VERY chalky if neglected. I was planning to polish it and put some type of protection on it, wondering what might be best. Thanks

@@TheMrChaddles Hey Chad, I personally wouldn’t advise using this product on that car. They oxidize like crazy and I do not think it will last at all like it should. I would recommend sticking to sealants or waxes and I would suggest compounding and or polishing before you apply those the first time. After that, if you wash and wax (or use a sealant) regularly, you can probably go a year or more between needing to polish again. An occasional cleaner wax would even do the trick to clean off the oxidized paint to leave a clean surface so future wax or sealants can bond properly. -MK

@@MarkusKleis awesome. Thanks for actually replying, with a well thought out response nonetheless. That means a lot. Like your content. Also saw where some guy was arguing with you the other day on either Detailing 101 or DFM group on fb and got a good laugh out of it lol. Have a good day!

Compound and polish to remove - same approach as traditional ceramic coatings. And yes on the wheels! -MK

Awesome - keep us posted!

Well I’ve put this stuff on my new car and it’s been 5 months and it’s taken a major hit.. no way it lasts year.. same thing, sits outside wash once a month, I’ve took a photo of when I first applied and today (5 months)

@@mattlester7799 I'm at 18 months on my daily and it is still incredibly strong. It's been on my wheels even longer at 24 months and also incredibly strong. You likely didn't have a full/proper bond in the first place, or something has happened to it since. I can't see any images, but can you describe in detail what condition the vehicle was in, what prep was done, how you applied it and how it has been washed/maintained? We might be able to trade the issue down. This is legit the first time I have seen a single person say anything negative in regards to the durability so it leads me to believe something is amiss.

@@MarkusKleis I washed the vehicle and checked the paint for any issues which seemed all fine it’s hardly ever moved less than 7k miles so the paint was never really bad, the only thing I would know that weaken it would be when I applied the coating I wiped it off right after getting the panel finished instead of letting it sit for afew minutes but it was being done in the afternoon probably around 78, I can’t post pictures to RU-vid so I can’t show you the week after and 5 months pictures but it’s taken a major hit and I’ve only maybe put 2k miles on it in 5 months, the sides of the car seems to be in good shape but the hood and top of the car is about 70 percent gone

@@mattlester7799 So no chemical or mechanical paint DECON, or paint correction was performed before applying, correct? And just so I am understanding- you had 7,000 miles at the time you applied it, or since? Regardless of those answers, it’s very possible you wiped it off before it could properly bond and s a result very material was actually applied to the paint that had any hope of bonding permanently. Aside from that, how frequently have you been washing the vehicle since applying the coating?

It should do quite well. It was stress tested in Minnesota winters and held up comparably to pro coatings. -MK

I left late last year and joined Harbor Freight Tools. It was a really tough decision but there was a a great opportunity for me to grow with some new challenges there and I just couldn’t pass it up.

Hey Evo, this is a Hybrid coating because it is a blend of Polysiloxane (Sio) and a polymeric structure. That blend is why it is called Hybrid since it mixed two components together. Many brands consider polysiloxane to be "ceramic," and if Meguiar's was as loose with their definitions as those brands they could have called this ceramic, too. The reality is you do not need sio2 for a coating to perform.

@@MarkusKleis Thank you for the response, I will give this product a try and see if it is one step above CarPro Cquartz Lite in term of performance and durability in hot weather.

@@evostudio1631 Lite is a great product! But I think you will find that this should stay performing at a high level longer.

Yes - this is fantastic on PPF. Makes it much slicker and bonds very well. -MK

If you are happy with how it looks, then you can skip the polishing. I do highly recommend at least doing an iron remover step though. Even brand new cars usually need that step and skipping it could reduce effectiveness of bonding, cause an uneven surface and reduce hydrophobics and durability. If you don’t own one, the best bang for the buck and easy to find option is using Meguiar’s Ultimate All Wheel Cleaner. I would spray it onto the already washed and dried panel, then use a wash mitt to agitate and spread it around. Then rinse it off, dry and then proceed to M122 then coating.

@@MarkusKleis Great advice! Lastly, should I remove the previous wax before applying this on? Just subscribed to you 🔥

@@enochsng3533 You definitely want to start with a clean surface any time you apply a true coating as you want it to be able to have a direct bond to the material you want it to stick to. If you have some existing wax you risk that mixing with the coating and compromising maximum bond. If you do any polishing followed by the M122, you should be good to go. If you do not use polish or compound, I suggest looking into a dedicated Wax & Grease Remover solvent-based product that you can wipe the area down with first, THEN use the included M122, then apply the coating. Let me know if that still isn't clear :)

Hi Vic, yes it does. All Meguiar's waxes, sealants or coatings offer protection from the elements and reduce UV damage. -MK

Hi gorillanismo, All of Meguiar’s waxes, sealants or coatings are engineered to provide protection against environmental damage including UV degradation. It’s a very technical and complex topic that I would like to address in a video, but the short answer is this will provide as much UV protection as a traditional ceramic coating. -MK

@@MarkusKleis thanks man, hope to see new videos soon

Yes sir. Just make sure they are properly cleaned first. My wheels on my Raptor have been coated for 24 months and are still beading at about 75-80%~ of day one. -MK

Yes, BUT, I highly suggest avoiding car washes that make contact with the car. Touch-less car washes are a great option for cars coated with HPC because it has very strong chemical resistance and can resist the chemicals used in touch-less tunnels. If you use traditional car washes with spinning brushes it will swirls, scratch and eventually beat the coating up to the point where it will fail prematurely. (Every coating I have ever tested says avoid car washes or the warranty is void for this reason). -MK

Yes it does - all waxes, sealants and coatings that Meguiar’s sells are engineered to provide varying degrees of protection against UV damage - this one is no exception :) -MK

Yes. All Meguiar’s waxes, sealants and coatings are designed to protect against environmental damage including UV-based damage, even if it isn’t specifically called out on the packaging. -MK

Hi Bobby, Definitely. I got a full two years on my wheels on my daily from a single application and zero toppers. I generally used either Meguiar's Non-Acid Wheel & Tire, D1801 Iron DECON or basic soap and water to wash. I hope to post a video about it soon. -MK

Not a stupid question- and yes it does! -MK

Hi Dannob! What is the stripe made of? Is it vinyl - if so, is it glossy, or some sort of matte or satin? If it is painted OR glossy vinyl, then coat right over it! No need to tape it off. If you have matte or satin, that material can be hit or miss... sometimes it works, sometimes it ends up blotchy (with any waxes, sealants or coatings). Hope that helps! -MK

@@MarkusKleis Thanks! Its glossy vinyl, can wait to try this out.

@@rsxcbr Should work great! If for any reason you get any uneven coverage, just apply more product to the applicator and gently work it into that area a little bit more and it should even it out. -MK

I am asking around - I don't believe it is there now, but not sure if it will be coming next year. -MK

Hi Alton, I would not recommend adding anything for the first week. There is a chance that the chemicals of the topper will either partially remove, or mix with the coating before it is fully cured, in turn reducing long-term durability slightly. I know out of habit it is normal to want to do a final wipe down and protect it as much as possible, but it really is not necessary in this case. This coating so strongly rejects chemicals and water that you are fine with it alone. If you absolutely need to do a wipe down to remove dust or fingerprints before delivery, I would suggest using distilled or spot-free water on a barely damp microfiber and very gently wiping it down with that. -MK

@@MarkusKleis thank you for the detailed reply! I really appreciate how thorough you just explained everything! I just landed two boxes for $20 each! Excited to try the coating out!

@@time2shineautospa586 My pleasure - glad I could help. -MK

No you are fine. You want to avoid getting it wet for 24 hours, and washing for a week if you can help it. There is a certain level of initial cure that takes place in the first 24 hours and it can handle basic water after that. It’s the introduction of chemicals (like wash) combined with the mechanical aspect of wiping during the wash process you want to avoid if possible for a week as the full cure finishes. That said, if it rains, my suggestion is to get quality microfiber towels damp with straight water and very gently wipe a la el at a time clean. Take a second polish dry microbes and gently dry that panel. Repeat until you do the whole car and you will be fine! -MK

@@MarkusKleis it very lightly rained for a minute today when the weather said no rain for two weeks 😂. So I waited till the paint wasn’t hot, 4 hours later, and did as you suggested. I used distilled water and sprayed it on a microfiber towel and went very gently. The light water spots literally came off with no pressure whatsoever. It rained 48 hours after application. Souther New Mexico weather is as predictable as Texas weather lol. Thank you for always providing such great information MK, I truly appreciate what you do for the detailing community.

@@Thamac15 Hah, the rain gods can be cruel at times! Glad it worked out - and it is my pleasure! Glad I could help. -MK

Hey Ross, Couple of thoughts. One, I have on rare occasion come across some cars where just about everything seems to leave smears, streaks and un-even patches. It's quite rare, but it happens - I can't fully explain it, but I always suggest really making sure you start with a good, clean slate with a proper wash, decontamination and at least 1 step of paint correction to really deep clean the paint. It is *possible* that you are dealing with a build-up of old product not playing nice. The other possibility is applying too much product - which is super common. Lastly, the thing I would check is your microfiber towels - it is SUPER common that they get clogged with all of the durable polymers and chemicals used in modern sealants and waxes. Make sure to wash them with some white vinegar for the rinse cycle and VERY minimal amount of laundry detergent, or even better, a dedicated microfiber cleaner. I have definitely experienced situations where towels get clogged and it leads to smearing instead of absorption. All of that said, HPC is a true coating - not a sealant or a wax, so once it sets up and cured to the paint, there is no smearing it around at all. You may get a small amount of oily residue after application but that excess material will come off in the first wash. As long as your paint is in good condition, you apply it correctly, and then simply wash it often - it should give you a year or more of high quality protection. Given what you have experienced - I would invest in some fresh, quality microfiber towels and really be sure to deep clean the vehicle before applying. Hope that helps! -MK

Hey Jesse! No, you do not want to apply any true coating over any type of wax or sealant. A good hint that a product claiming to be a coating but actually just being a sealant is when the manufacturer says you can apply it over existing waxes or sealants (TW Hybrid Solutions Spray "Coating" for example). So you would want to use a true compound and/or polish before applying this coating. If you wanted to use Uno or Speed, then stick to something that is a spray sealant (Hybrid Ceramic Wax, for example) which doesn't need to bond directly to the paint. Does that make sense? -MK

@@MarkusKleis I figured as much. Thank you!

You know, you have to wonder, right? Isn't it fascinating how this product was totally ignored by that portion of the community? Makes you wonder, right? It should cause all of us to pause and ponder why that might be. I have my own theory. -MK

This is being tested on Scott HD's channel with really good results so far. Only downside to this product that I can think of is that I have no need for M122 or the applicators, as I already have both

@@tier1detailing Yeah it's killing it so far. He also added it to a new test of all pro coatings - very excited to see how it holds up comparatively. -MK

@@tier1detailing I actually did just see that the other day! Looking forward to seeing how it performs. 👍

Hey Kurt, Lack of sales. As a product marketer myself, I think they made a few mistakes with the size of the can being excessive (added $$), the included (2) 16x24 high quality towels (added $$) and the included M122 (added $$) compared to the other options that are in retail that are A.) Not even real coatings, and B.) Just a single spray bottle. In the end, I think the higher price PLUS the added cost of shipping aerosol small parcel ultimately doomed this item. One could also argue that the average consumer doesn't understand coatings well enough to "get it" without "ceramic" being mentioned. At any rate, I have high hopes for a solid replacement product in a better form factor in the future to fill the void this amazing product will leave behind. /Fingers crossed! -MK

Hello, Yes, all Meguiar's waxes, sealants and coatings offer protection from the elements including EV damage. -MK

Just watched Pan’s video on this product and he said there is no mention of UV protection on the packaging

@@paul6749 I helped develop this product. I assure you, it provides UV protection. The package is MARKETING- it is not the end all, be all of what the product can do :) I wasn’t the one who decided the packaging for this item - and the folks that did decided to focus on other things. -MK

Hey Andrew, so first thing I would do before going to re-coat is at least test and see if there is some sort of contamination on the coating. Sometimes lower panels get so much gunk thrown up from the road they get removed/abraded, and other times they just become "clogged" with stuff on top. I would do a wash, then try an iron remover first. See if that helps. From there, an acid based water spot remover would be the second thing to try. If it only makes it worse, then that means the coating is probably gone in that area. In that case, I would simply do the M122 wipe down and proceed to coat just like you did the first time. I would simply go over the entire vehicle and put a fresh coat just like day one. The only exception here would be if you see so many swirls and such that you wanted to polish first, but as long as the paint still looks good, you do not *need* to do that. I would also avoid clay and stick to chemical decon to avoid adding more swirls unless you plan on polishing. Where the coating is still strong, you will not do much applying more over it as it will just wipe off. But anywhere that the coating was gone/weak, it will bond just like the first time. Hope that answers your questions. -MK

I completed the two tests that you offered. sad to say but the coating did not make it through the salt spray here in northern indiana. Side panels 2/3 up are done. Only lasted appx six months. It’s hard here due to too cold to reapply until may. Added bead booster again( once in February when I noticed it failing) to try to get me by. Disappointed it did not hold up to the salt. Everywhere else on truck protection is still present. Better than fast finish held up though. A lot better than the ULW. Was very happy with HPC at first. Not sure where I will go from here. Might add more, might switch products. Not interested in 5 year ceramic but need to make it through the salt.

@@Mize77 It's hard for me to say for sure what is going on with any level of certainty without being able to see the vehicle or the process, but it could either be that the chemicals used in that area are just too much for it. It could also be that it just isn't getting a good bond in the first place, and as a result the bond is not able to last through that harsh environment. Sometimes you just don't get good compatibility with a product - it happens. All of that said, it is quite common that coatings get beat up in those areas in areas with excessive road salt. I saw posts today about a very reputable coating brand facing similar issues. You could always try a totally different coating, but no guarantees you won't face similar issues (but at least then you would know it wasn't limited to the HPC). -MK