ReadyLIFT 2.5" FRONT LEVELING KIT INSTALL 

Glad you like it!

You're welcome!

I bet it rides tremendously better! Nice green machine on the side too.

@@johnstaub359 It softened the front suspension and puts my viewpoint higher. It also allows me to run some air in the rear bags which gets the overloads further away from the bump stops. For being a Ford 1 ton, it couldn't steer and handle any better.

Yea. Didn't think about that at the time but would have made it easier.

Muchas Gracias

Glad it helped! Rotate the front tires to the rear and see if that takes care of it. If not then you need to have a shop check the alignment and get a printout. It will pull to the side with the most negative caster and positive camber.

You will position the cutout on each bushing directly to the rear of vehicle. I started each bushing with the notch facing me and then turned it to the rear of vehicle with a pipe wrench. While you are doing this, watch the upper ball joint/knuckle move backward to rear of pickup just like in the video. The bushings will make the axle dust caps bottom out in the differential tubes which makes them hard to install and that is why I started with the notch to me and then rotated to the rear. After centering the steering wheel up at home I took it to work the next day and checked the alignment. It was dead on and needed no adjustment at all. L caster= 2.2deg, R caster= 2.2deg, L camber= -.2deg, R camber= -.4deg

It's a Westin 72-96150 platinum bug shield. It fit real nice and I think it looks better than some other brands on the market. Here is a link:www.amazon.com/Wade-72-96150-Platinum-Bug-Shield/dp/B0058VAQ6E

Thanks! The cutouts point directly to the rear of pickup.

Sure can. Jack up each side, remove tire, cotter pin, ball joint nut and you are there. Will probably need some penetrating oil and a chisel to get the old shim out. Install the new shim & reassemble. Other than centering up the steering wheel, I didn't have to adjust anything else.

2 degree caster bushings should do the trick.www.summitracing.com/parts/sps-23228?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAiAqJn9BRB0EiwAJ1SztXY2u2yhKf32_DVI5umJngzLdfY6m831wJgjd8FYeW0ASR1TCBhBVxoCch0QAvD_BwE

Yep, looks like you need to get one installed. You won't have to mess with camber, caster or toe. Just center up your steering wheel again & should be good to go.

Mine can't steer and ride any better after the install. I have already taken it for granted on how it looks, rides and handles. If I had to change it back, would probably be saying this truck is a POS. LOL Can't remember where I found the bushing specs but you will need them. Raising the front makes the caster go more negative and will cause problems with steering wander, pulling, memory steer, etc. This kit is pretty much the maximum that a stock Ford can be lifted, any more and then it would need the radius arms dropped. I checked the alignment a couple weeks later on our hunter machine at the shop and it was dead on! Didn't need to adjust the toe at all. See my comment to Dave Sperfslage for my alignment specs. There is a link in the description for the caster bushings. They can be found from multiple retailers.

I installed the caster sleeves the same time I did the kit and straightened the steering wheel right afterward in the garage. Drove it twice to tweak the wheel straight and have never touched since. It drives perfectly straight and tight just like factory. The only thing I noticed directly after install is it felt a little "softer" over bumps and more forgiving. I couldn't imagine ever going back to stock. Best improvement that can be done on these trucks IMO. I thought the same thing but that's the way the shocks are designed. I ran it up on our alignment machine a couple weeks later to check the alignment but it was dead on. Have to step up a little higher on the running boards which is cool. Definitely a better birds eye view of traffic also.

Stabilizer will not make it pull. Make sure your tire pressure is the same on both sides first. Next, rotate the front tires to the rear to see if that fixes. If it still pulls then you will need to have the alignment checked. Make sure you ask for an alignment printout. Caster should be equal or slightly more negative on the driver front. Camber should be equal or slightly more negative on the passenger front.

Nope, they just align and sit down in the lower spring bracket. The shocks keep the suspension from over traveling and shooting the springs out.

@@raincitywrench117 thanks for the video and links very happy with the whole setup especially the caster sleeves had to order stock bolts and plate for the bottom of spring.

No. Installed the kit exactly as it came. I double checked the alignment after replacing the upper ball joint bushings and it was dead on. I no longer have the pickup but it sure drove nice.

Mine rides stiff because of the overload springs in the back. I have 4 60lb sand bags in the very back of the box and it tames the rear vibration.

@@raincitywrench117 ok 👌

Couldn't find an updated link for amazon but did add one for summit racing.

About 5 hours. It took a few test drives to get the steering wheel straight so that added extra time but a job that can easily be done in a day.

Oh yea, big difference. Also raised the headlight aim and the first thing I noticed was how much higher it was to step up into the cab.

@@raincitywrench117 Good to know. Thanks for the reply.

Love it, should have done it day one after buying. Can't imaging going back to the way it was.

I got lucky, the kit had the correct bushings in a bag but had to press them in. Before I bought this kit, I noticed different shocks in the pictures depending on the seller.

Thought the same thing. 🤷‍♂️🤦‍♂️

My daily driver is a GMC. I like the body lines and 6.7L on the third generation 2011-2016. Not a fan of body or engines on pre 2011 Fords and body style on fourth gen Fords. Tough to go wrong with any of the newer big three diesels - Cummins 6.7 Duramax 6.6 Ford 6.7

Lol I'm giving you shit man! It is a sharp truck! I agree the other body styles sucked! Unless it's the 2 tone late 90s square body fords those are still the best looking ones! I'm partial to 6 ins row if you know wat I'm saying... I wld hate removing all piping and hoses to get to things on the V8 style diesels! Easier for me to work on!

@@misconceptionindustries2968 I figured as much and no offense taken. When it comes to truck competitions, I tell people drive what you like and fits your eye. Even with that said, pre 2011 Ford diesels are garbage IMO. Ford decided to kick international to the curb then design and manufacture their own diesel, the new 6.7 is an impressive engine. Inline 6 engines are bulletproof and I bet cummins never changes their design. Had and 86 bronco 300 I6. It's probably still running. I also had a 55, 73 and 1990. I loved the square style of the 1990 when it came out and just had to have one, same feeling with my 2013. I work for a Ford dealer now and after seeing new sticker prices, I appreciate my ride that much more and plan to hang on to it for a long time. Cheers