15 years ago had new roof installed. I then installed alum fascia covering around the house. Recently had the same company come out and install another new roof. Found out every corner of of the fascia was destroyed from water damage. You could plainly see it came in from the top open corner of the drip edge and spread out from there. Most roofers when they go around a corner with drip edge they just make a diagonal cut and bend the fascia around the corner. This results in a big hole in the top edge of that bend. Water will wick into that hole like crazy and if you have fascia cover the water will be trapped behind that cover and rot out like crazy. Talked to other roofer and he was aware of that so he says they do it like this guy to prevent that. If you can see big holes on the corners of your drip edge you will have rot. If no rot yet fill those holes with caulking. So this guy here is doing it right. Thank you!
I agree. I get a lot of flack for this method, but we use T metal around here and this is how you do it. Bending it around the corner is just not the right way for T metal. It will work well for square broke drip or edge metal that doesn't have a T.
PlymouthVT yep my roof is about 9 years old. That little cut is at every outside corner. One corner has a little rot, I will have to caulking on those places. Thanks for the information.
perfect example of a quality drip edge install, I saw some comments on your other video where people don't understand Florida roofing, I am not a Florida Roofer but was for years.. If you don't understand, ask a question, stubbornness equals ignorance equals inability to learn things like a mitered corner instead of a terribly ugly bent one.. Nice work
I learned how to do drip edge on my own, boss left me too shoot synthetic slate on 3 condos all by myself from flashing drip edge and step flashing. Closed all 3 condos in a little over a month 1 man. All help I had was having 2 condos dried in when I first got there. Funny thing is this exactly how I decided to do my drip. Pretty cool to see this is the way your showing here. Awesome
We call it T metal. We only use square broke in custom conditions, and event then we will put a T on it. Let's the roof hang over a bit with the strength of the metal to support.
@@PracticalRoofingConcepts yet to install or fab t metal, sure I will one day. I see how the T adds support and over hang a little. Only seen drip bent in a L with a kick on the bottom here in hawaii.
It can. We have always done it this way due to not having ice to contend with. Florida Building Code allows under or over. We seal with roofing cement for wind
Hey, how come you didn't "rope-off" on that roof... hahaha.. Just being a "smart aleck". I came to your channel for the metal cutting education, that I will be employing to install metal siding on a shop. You did a great job of explaining, and hands on demonstration. I thank you for this.
Pressure bend that last piece prior to installation and let's not pull it so tightly or smack it in place because that often causes the face to "kick outward". And for goodness sakes; let's think of those who will install the fascia...
I'm trying to learn how to do this. Your video is kind of confusing but once I found a diagram that was like in some magazine when a reader asked them how to do it, it all made sense. I'm curious to see how the drip edge running up the rake would go over the peak. Do you bend one piece over the peak or do you butt up two pieces at the peak?
You can cut the face up to the T and then fold down. If you make the piece go behind that doesn't line up perpendicular with the ground it looks better. You can also cut in two pieces. Cut the tee off and leave some nailer to fold over the ridge and also a tab on the face, and do the same on the other side so the tees line up, and no tab on the face. Hopefully, have that video coming soon.
If you are talking about the cuts then good.Make sure you follow your local code. Some codes want you to install dripedge under the paper. Florida code says over or under.
