These scotts mowers made by john deere were made only a few short years form 1998-2002. The drive belt routing and installation is a little tricky but definitely do-able
Thank you for your post, I looked at many others but yours is the best, I just loosened up the small idler puller and then pulled the big one with a piece of rope, just like you did and it was not hard at all.
Another video suggests running the belt up to the PTO pulley and using a large screwdriver to pry it over the pulley. It sure makes sense to me because I'm on my second time of replacing that geared pulley on top of the transmission because that gear on the pulley strips out over time and the tractor won't go forward or reverse because the pulley just slips on the transmission geared spline. That tension spring will take a hand off if you slip. This time I'm going to go up to the pto pulley and try that method.
Great video John. Hey how did you bypass the parking break safety switch? When I depress the brake,the safety switch doesn't get pushed in all the way,therefore the mower won't start. The j bolt that led to the locking bar for parking break is messed up,and won't lock brake pedal. Any knowledge you could share about bypassing that parking break switch would sure be appreciated. Thanks.
I don't know what year your machine is but more specifically I don't know what your Engine is. Mine mine is a 2000 Scots with a Briggs and Stratton motor.. On that model there are 2 harnesses that have purple and white wires . I disconnected both harnesses and clipped both sets of purple wires 4 in total , I then Connected all 4 purple wires together with a wire nut and boom all your safety items go away. Actually I think it was a 1997 for that mower But it definitely has a 17 horsepower Briggs and Stratton intech engine
Oops now that I'm looking at the video you posted on that was a 2000 kohler engine but the idea is the same I have no idea what those wires look like though, I did mine on the bricks and Stratton sorry if that doesn't help
Well here we go again. On my 3rd pulley replacement! This 99 Scott leave a lot to be desired.. one thing after another! I bought it new and I'm on my 2nd engine, 3rd drive pulley on the transmission.. countless batteries, 2nd carburetor, rear tires, fronts constantly leak ailr,, the first mower deck rotted out and now the 2nd one has a hole, the bagger tube gets eaten my the mower blades because of a horrible design that allows the tube to move into the blade compartment,,,now that is up to a $90 replacement part. I'm done! One more pulley fix and its going to get a 4 SALE sign or I'm going to fill the fuel tank , install a wick and light it. . No wonder they only made these for a few years!
Wow. Like your machine was built on Friday...I still have a 1999 with just a carb replacement...I truly think John deere built those for home depot when corners were not cut thinking to get some kind of contract. Now the John deere at big Box stores are typical shit like mtd. Sorry to hear you had so many problems...I still use my 99 as a primary mower
@@JLafix I worked at Home Depot when I bought it. Basically Home Depot wanted a nice big orange tractor to sell people then they discovered people like brand names and I have no idea where they got that name Scott from perhaps to copy the Scott grass seed to relate to mowing I like to tractor but this pulley problem is getting to me it's just a bad design and they are not designed to pull and I have a log splitter that I tow around we should change the name to riding lawn mower instead of tractor because tractors are supposed to be strong enough to tow
@@davidg813 I have two of those Scott's, a 97 and a 99. Never had a problem with the 97(non hydrostatic) with the briggs engine. The 99 is hydrostatic with the kohler that was given to me cause the person thought the transmission was bad. It was the striped out drive pulley. I welded that pulley right to the shaft 13 years ago. I use that still for a primary mower no problems since. The 97 is a race mower I made about 5 years ago. Considering the price of new ones today I'll keep fixing mine till the end of days.
I somehow have over 6.5 thousand hrs on my hydrostatic one and only probs i have had so far is the transmission mounts kept breaking but i have had it ratchet strapped for at least the last 1000 hrs or so and works fine. I also have had steering issues and changed the steering gears and bushings a few times
@@Lewtuube my current problem is staring I have to tackle that now the steering wheel has way too much play in the left tire when I turn left wants to go way too far to the left and I think it's all because of a stripped gear down at the bottom of the steering shaft oh well I bought it in 1999 so you got to expect something to wear out I just wish I could get at the steering column without having a rip half the tractor apart but covered up by the gas tank and who knows what else then in order to get the steering wheel off they had to use some Mongrel screw that nobody has a tool for it looks like some kind of a mongrel Torx screw whatever happened to hex head bolts
