This Toyota Died in the Weirdest Way! 

I guess it still needs a fuel pump as it has the fuel level sensing sensor built in.

Thanks for sharing, I've actually never had a chance to scope one that was on empty so thanks for the tip and reference. I'm going to assume there's no type of "calibration" setting to match the gauge with the sending unit via the scanner? I only ask because I ran into one that had multiple pumps and would die the same way b/c it still "displayed" some fuel left on the cluster, I ended up figuring out the calibration and was able to match the two components when empty. Thanks for sharing as always.

You found that quickly! I have a sending unit on my car that's getting slow. I'm using the resettable trip meter to gauge fuel left, motorcycle-style. (Part unavailable, 31 year old car, I've replaced twice in its lifetime.)

So are you going to diag the fuel level sensor and/or fuel gauge circuit?

It still showed a 1/4 or 1/8 of a tank. So the sender was probably bad too. You should have showed if the gas level indicator on the cluster, if it went up. And also checked with the scan tool what the tank percentage showed.

you show great demonstration on using your equipment i love that no beating around the bush you just got another subscriber

Nice video and diagnosis. I liked the Slingblade reference. I guess the customer can decide if they want to replace fuel pump assembly or track their driving and fuel consumption.

That has to be embarrassing for the owner. But the gauge does make one believe it has gas. Interesting.

Nice diag. A lot of people would be surprised by how often this happens, even on brand new stuff. I had a 2023 Grand Cherokee with the exact same problem about a month ago.

My moms old Corsica had that problem, at 1/4 tank it was empty lol

Nice, simple, basic lesson. Thanks!

There should be a relay for the fuel pump. If that pump was run dry, it will need to be replaced. They are lubricated by the fuel that is moving through it.

Great video quick info . Would have liked to see fuel level reading after you added fuel and a amp and scope signal after running. Also if customer wanted to replace gauge Sender

This was a good one. Thanks Keith.

As i do lots of toyota imports from the the sudden stalling its always toyota fuel issues...these vitz so called yaris with digital sending unit display have this issue of showing false quantity. great info and explanation sir.cheers

excellent video thanks so much for sharing

Super information thank you

Love it. Going to bookmark that website 😃

very good video kinda odd about a month ago had one towed to shop no start usually this person isn't the type to run out of gas but when the tow truck dropped it off i grabbed the key turned on thought i heard fuel pump running customer standing there when i looked at gauge it was empty according to gauge i ask her last time she put fuel in she had the strangest look on her face quess i forgot to fill up yesterday she usually fills once a week when she gets paid she had forgotten face red went got gas and drove home. i felt so sorry for her didn't charge for diag should have but didn't thanks for video have learned a lot from you im in Alabama wish was closer for your classes thanks again

Great diag Keith! Do you have any more useful websites that would be helpful?

Great job, thank you for your sharing.🌹🌹

All the dirt and grass in the back seat is legit. Certified Oklahoma car right there.

Great video, I actually kept up with this one. 😊

Good video thanks for sharing Keith

All electric motors output the work that the application asks for at that moment. Many people think a 1/3HP motor always outputs the rated HP but this is not true.

Look like a fuel sender is on the list also . Fine diag.

4 basics, fuel, air, spark and compression.

Dude just scientifically proved car aint got no gas...wow

This is the content ilike to see looking forward to more of it.

Please give us more picoscope testing ways

The video was great! I only wish you would have shown the fuel pump waveform after you put fuel in it. Thanks for all the great content.

Thank you sir for a great video. Just like Ivan (Phad) the best thing is not parts require

Hmm Sending unit not working correctly? Owner might want to take out that pump and check everything and replace fuel filter. Informative for those that own this model car.

Carl is a genius! 😂

I'm actually surprised that the fuel level was obviously too low for the fuel pump to pick up yet the gauge read that high.

Love the title

How did you manage a crank no start that the customer didnt have the tow truck stop at a gas station to choke the tank so full that fuel runs out the filler neck. Every crank no start I get in have 40 gallons in a 20 gallon tank.

Of course us old timers would give it a spritz of ether to zoom in on a fuel issue and tap on the tank to see if it had gas . We've come a long way !

I had a customer tow her car to me three times because they were out of fuel. I asked her why and how she told me the fuel gauge doesn’t work each time it was in the shop the gauge worked when she drove away and hit bumps. It would stop working. Found corrosion on the wiring down at the pump. Problem solved happy customer. Thanks for the video man.

How do you know where the toyota was manufactured?

Not even gonna watch *CLICK BAIT TITLE* Scotty just came out with a video called "Why Toyota's Never Die In A Weird Way and Why I Am Quitting RU-vid" and he never lies 😐

Nice Diag!

fuel level sending unit is fubar!

This was very strange. Now unless that gas "gauge' (digital bar graph) "all of a sudden" began to read 1/4 tank, when there is actually no gas, YOU WOULD THINK that someone who drives this car every day, would know by now that the gauge is funky. I mean, if this the FIRST TIME EVER, that they let the gas level go down to 1/4 tank? Anyway, since it DID stall on the highway, and the gauge DOES read low, wouldn't it be a good general practice under this set of conditions be, to just add some gas into the tank and see if it starts......first? LASTLY, what would have been very interesting, is (since you had the amp clamp on the fuel pump wire) to see what it was drawing when it did start.

So does the fuel level not reading right now get fixed?

Holy crap! How can someone diagnose that without all these tools? I would've never guessed the fuel gauge was stuck on quarter full. I guess another way would be to listen to the pump running, but that still doesn't mean it's actually pumping the gas.

Great video and diag! Possible contaminated sender from high sulfur fuel.

Thanks for using as basic tools as possible to illustrate that it's skill before tools. Love quality tools but can't afford them all

Awesome

First view, it does not have any fuel, bad pump? Ok so out of gas, lol how to tell I’m out of gas the hard way, nice to know. Diag the pump with a scope

A lot of fancy tools just to figure out there's no fuel in it.

Fule gage in fuel pump reading wrong value

I respect your approach and your knowledge but if you suspect it’s out of gas Why not just dump a gallon of gas into it and see what happens?

Simple stuff first... From a backup generator session from earlier this Spring. Let me tell you about a man Jed, "A poor mechanical engineer, barely kept his family fed, And then one day he was shootin' at some food, And up through the ground come a bubblin' crude." Today's efforts involve a long-delayed plan for the 10k watt generator. A couple of years ago, I gutted the wiring distribution panel. As with any mass-produced item, things were done as cheaply as possible. The wiring gauge was *just* barely within specification for handling the output of the generator. I wanted to make sure running the thing for days non-stop wouldn't be a problem. The rewiring was rather involved. All the terminating connector ends have been soldered and insulated with heat shrink tubing. I spend a number of weeks designing, ordering, acquiring, building, and refining (with rework) the effort. But, during the long and involved rewiring job, I left the on-board starter battery charging circuit and components alone. I just didn't have the time to dive into that can of worms. Well, today is the day! The OEM charging system is getting pulled out! In its place will be a standard mains-powered trickle charger/maintainer. A 3 amp battery charger will be deployed to cover under-operation battery voltage levels. Why? The OEM charging system cannot be monitored. In addition, it's rather primitive. I'm worried about it overcharging the starter battery. I started my efforts around 10:00am. As such, I didn't bother firing up the generator. Why? It was working fine the last time I twisted the ignition key... It was relatively straightforward work to remove or cut out all the wires and components to the charging system. There were other wires in the harness bundles for the various mechanical protection circuits (low oil pressure shutoff) and such. No biggy, I'll add those back in as needed with fresh properly sized and spliced wires. Sometime around noon, I had the old charging system removed with just a couple of the generator's protection circuits still cut open. I'd better pause here and verify I haven't done any damage to critical operational systems. I took off the gas cap and checked for fuel in the tank. Oh, there's gas down there. Cool! Plus, it was running right up until I shut it down last time. I hit the starter switch for a few crank-overs of the engine and it sputters *trying* to get going but dies. I do this a couple of more times. Same result. It kinda wants to but never gets truly motivated. "Hmmm, I wonder what mechanical protection circuit I buggered up?" And so the long drawn-out slog of problem determination begins... Now, this isn't a complicated beast. It is a two-cylinder with electric start. So there are a few wires running around here and there. But, there are zero electronics and no massive control module cable bundles to deal with. How hard could this be? But, this is the first time I've done such a deep dive into the detailed inner-workings of this beast. I have a basic 30,000 ft. view of the operation of the device, but no in-the-weeds familiarity with it. Hell, it's little more than a large motor lawn mower. So, there I sit on my milk crate with knees at my ears bent over looking looking thinking thinking. After the removal of the OEM charging system, I only have two unterminated wires left. They *have* to be joined, grounded, or given power! Those are the only choices! I'm still looking and still thinking... I guess I should run inside the house and get on the Internet for a wiring diagram. Thank God for the Internet! I had access to the wiring diagram in under a minute. Okay, simple stuff! I think I know where my two open wires go... But, I'm not 100% sure. Once again, I'm not in-the-weeds familiar with the details of this mechanical beast. Well, I need to be sure! So, I started removing all the covers and plates for physically tracing *all* the subsystem control wires. Lots of bolts and covers later, my two orphaned wires are: The oil pressure switch and a lead from the ignition switch. At first blush, I think my wires will need to be joined. But, we'd better check! With the multi-meter I wanted to see if the wires lead to ground when given 12 volts. Or, do they supply 12 volts? Do the paths or voltages change upon activation of the ignition switch? Testing. Testing. Testing. And what about that goofy relay pulled out during my initial wire cutting and tearing? Once back inside the house, I got to look over the wiring diagram again and search the Internet for anyone else that has attempted this modification... I had fantastic luck with finding the wiring diagram. But, there's zero out there concerning my particular modification quest on gutting the battery charging circuit. Things that look key... The oil pressure switch. Is it open or closed during operation? And how does that relay come into play? More internet searching turns up the function of the time-delay relay. With power applied to the relay's primary, it doesn't switch on right away. And, once power is removed from the primary, the relay stays latched for a duration. Hmmmm. Why? When cranking the engine, oil pressure is slow to come up. We wouldn't want the low-oil pressure safety circuit paying attention upon initial cranking. Okay, I think I've got it... My two unterminated wires need to be joined. One end is the oil pressure switch and the other is the shorting lead-to-ground from the two ignition coils. How the system works: Low oil pressure closes the safety switch grounding out the ignition's primary winding killing spark. The time-delay relay sits in between the ignition primary and the oil pressure switch ground. So the time-delay relay needs to be added in eventually. However, for the time being, I can just connect my two unconnected wires and get the generator running. Once verified as running, I'll reconstitute the final wiring setup. The damned thing still isn't starting! It wants to. But, it's behaving like a teenager hitting the school day alarm clock snooze button never really getting out of bed. Really? To the basics, then: air, fuel, spark. Air? The air filter cover is already off. It's only a reach to pull the air filter. Still no start. Spark? There's a small aftermarket RPM/hour meter hooked up to one of the cylinders. Upon cranking, there's an RPM reading. So, at least one cylinder is firing. It should run with one cylinder albeit poorly... Fuel? I did check the gas tank at the beginning. This thing does have a crankcase pressure fuel pump. And too, there's a 12 volt fuel solenoid at the carburetor... Uh oh, that fuel solenoid! It may be clogged or burned out. I have a habit of leaving the generator's ignition key in the run position since powering it down after a run is through turning off the fuel valve and allowing the engine to cease operation via fuel starvation. This prevents varnish from gumming up the carburetor's works. The solenoid clicks when the start key is moved to run. That's good! But, does it physically move? I removed it from the carburetor to verify the plunger actually operated when 12 volts was applied. Thank goodness it appears to work! Those fuel solenoids are pricey at around a C note. Now, I'm looking at the fuel pump... Does fuel actually make it to the carburetor? But, you know, that's going to be a rather involved mess to test. Let's see if the engine will run if I add fuel manually? I pull out my "starting fluid on steroids" setup involving a propane cylinder and a quick disconnect air hose and blower. A toot of propane in the throat of the carburetor while cranking the engine lights her off perfectly! Oh that's fantastic! Surely the fuel pump ain't bad. I open up the gas tank again and rather than look straight down, I angle my view towards the pickup tube. There it is! The slight angle of the driveway has kept fuel from entering the pickup tube. That only took four hours to figure out... Wasted time? Kinda. But, I now know the absolute intimate in-the-weeds details of this generator's operational electrical systems. Before putting in the full effort to reconstitute the required wiring, I played with the time-delay relay which will need to be added back in the mix. The relay's primary is controlled by 120 volts from the generator. It latches 4 to 6 seconds after primary power is applied. It also remains latched for a similar period once primary power is removed. With the wiring completed and everything buttoned up, I called it a long long day. 10:00am to 9:00pm with four hours of stupid out-of-fuel tail-chasing. I have yet to run the generator as it's been modified. It's going to rain all day today. But, Sunday we'll give her a full-blown 10k watt hour-long load test!

did you ever get your stolen trailer and 4wheeler back just thought about it

😂

Enjoy your evening with all your family around you, L1 automotive Training 👍 SUBSTANTIAL L1 Automotive Training From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧 ⏰️ 07:14a.

CLICKBAIT! 😜

Please…stop apologizing. We get it.

I guess you're really in need of customers. I would never touch a car that dirty. Makes me nauseous only looking at the video...