Triumph TR4 - Smiths/Jaeger Classic Gauge Calibration | Roundtail Restoration

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Using a bench power supply and a resistor box, I check and calibrate an old bi-metallic Smith's fuel gauge (BF2206/00). As with most things like this, if you have the right equipment, it's not that hard. And you'll learn a lot, too!
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29 фев 2024

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Комментарии : 17

@barry6274 4 месяца назад

That's really interesting, I had no idea they were adjustable. Thanks for another lesson in working with the electronics of these cars.

@roundtailrestoration 4 месяца назад

Thanks, Barry. It was a fun little project. Very simple design that is obviously quite robust.

@ericpfiffner5615 4 месяца назад

Decade boxes rock! I have some nice vintage ones at work

@roundtailrestoration 4 месяца назад

We had a really good one on the boat, calibrated to 0.01 ohms. Turns out they want to be able to accurately measure temperature in the reactor for some reason...

@MrMikeyspfx 4 месяца назад

Good information and you explained it very well

@roundtailrestoration 4 месяца назад

Thank you. I tend to geek out on stuff like this. Cheers!

@HenrysGarage 4 месяца назад

Great video. When my MGB is full, the indicator only shows around 3/4. I've been assuming it was the tank float needed replacing (or the indicator itself) and hadn't realised they're adjustable. I might have to take a look

@roundtailrestoration 4 месяца назад

Thanks! I have to look into the float sender. I think it may be adjustable as well so it may still be your float. I believe that Part 2 of the Gentlemen's guide will have some info.

@Laurent-wp7cq 4 месяца назад

Very useful Chris, thanks! I’m struggling with the temp gauge, i tried 2 sensors one reads high, the other way too high, so i will adjust the gauge using your guidance.

@roundtailrestoration 4 месяца назад

Glad it helped. Good luck getting them calibrated!

@DavesTR4A 3 месяца назад

Hi Chris, Hi Chris, As I was watching your excellent gauge adjustment video I noticed that you were using a bench top power supply to run your test. The original style voltage stabilizer actually produces an oscillating output, not a constant 10VDC. I would suggest that you remove the voltage stabilizer from you Spitfire wire that between your bench top supply and the load to get a more realistic supply voltage. If you are interested, I make a rebuilt voltage stabilizer using customer supplied voltage stabilizers. I spent about a year developing it and have sold over 100 so far with zero returns. I have a few videos of my voltage stabilizer on my RU-vid channel DavesTR4A if you are interested. Great videos Chris! Dave

@roundtailrestoration 3 месяца назад

Good point, Dave. I didn't think about that old school regulator giving a variable output. I think I still have the stabilizer on the 4's harness, so I'll grab that and see if I see any difference. I do know you remake the old regulators. It's on my list to send you one to rebuild for me! But, I didn't know you had a video, so I'll check that out. Thanks, Dave and thanks for watching!

@jarodofficer Месяц назад

And I assume you would want to set the power supply to feed a typical on-the-road voltage, like 13.5v, so the stabilizer will actually be working and oscillating.

@roundtailrestoration Месяц назад

@@jarodofficer Yes, that's what I did. Seemed to work.

@specter578 Месяц назад

Hi Chris. Do you have any videos or links to the process to dismantle and repair a Smith Jaeger speedometer for these spitfires?

@roundtailrestoration Месяц назад

I don't have any video links, but when I re-did my Spitfire's speedo I used this document: obswww.unige.ch/~wildif/cars/docs/Smith-jaeger_speedo_repair.pdf It's pretty good and goes into the different styles. You can probably find a video, but I don't have any to recommend. Good luck!

@specter578 Месяц назад

@@roundtailrestoration thank you very much!