What not to do to your Predator 301 or any small engine. 

I run 20w50 synthetic in all of my small engines. St.Louis, Mo. weather and I don't run anything in the very cold winter months. This oil has worked best for me for years, for my climate.

outstanding tip on the timing . thanks friend

Well done description . Thank you . Best . I don't know if it matters I run motorcycle oil in ALL my small motors . Best

I don't think it was the timing at all. First, you used too much oil. Then you disabled the governor and used the stock rod. They say that the stock rod can handle 6k rpm but I wouldn't trust it. And when you remove the low oil sensor, there is no need to put the bolts for it back in the block. You are asking for trouble by doing that.

Ignition timing one of the big contributing factors to adding it is how big the bore is.... so with that being bigger than a 212 you should be able to run the same or more you would just probably need to keep Cooling in mind.

Does ARC make an extra long 270 rod? I was wondering since they make these rods in so many different lengths compared to a stock rod , they might be able to speck something for you, especially with the different sized bearings they offer. Perhaps a 270 rod at +.040 length might have fit, but I don't know. If you're running well now I guess it's all in the past. Run well. These are really good kits.

Hi Rumnhammer! I know this is an old video but I don't think this was your fault my friend. The timing being a bit high wouldn't cause the oiling failure issue. The problem was also not likely that you overfilled the oil. More than likely your carb failed you and leaked raw fuel into the engine oil. This thinned out the oil and increased the volume of oil in the crankcase. The thinned conventional oil could not lubricate the engine and that's where the heat came from and the failed rod bearing issue. All and all it's more than likely a case of bad luck with the carburetor, not your fault IMO.

An awful lot of crap being said in this one boys! When you go through such a lengthy, well-planned out video such as this one just to make himself feel better about blowing your engine up by adding too much oil, says everything! I built several 270s and 301s from stock to pretty heavily modified and timing has never been an issue no matter what combination I've ran but I can tell you right now and I'm not ashamed to admit it, oil level has! They're so much misinformation given by the op and it's everywhere in the comments too! I really wish he would own up to the mistake he made, posted a video based on that and all would have been wonderful but we obviously didn't get that.

Thank-you for sharing your pain, for the betterment of others

im runing a stage one 301cc how much timing such I add for drag racing in your opinion ?

Higher cylinder pressure = higher bearing load, combined with extra heat and foaming oil = less lubrication to the bearings, spelled doom for your engine. Thanks for sharing.

Yeah, I run AMSOIL 10W30 Z-Rod oil lots of zinc for tehse flat tappet lifters, the anti corrosion/rust inhibitor package from their marine oil, and it's synthetic.

I have a problem after taking mines apart and removing the governer I got oil in the exhaust when I checked it this morning it was so hard to turn over piston sounded like a plunger so I figured I flooded it so I too the spark plug out and filled the head with gasoline to dry up some of the oil I turned the motor over a few times watched it spit but now it will only crank with starter fluid and only for a few seconds at that any suggestions?

Where did you get your advance timing keys ?

if it detonated that bad then why are there no signs of it? timing had nothing to do with it, now adding all the extra oil killed it. the rod was beating the oil and foaming it up and the motor didn't oil correctly and starved the rod for oil, hence the ate up rod and crank but no signs of detonation damage.

You can clean up that drive shaft and piston boot with Emory cloth and replace the Piston bearings with new ones and that motor will be fine after you re-set the timing. Just use some good oil in it next time too.

Now that you have but apart, are you going to do any modifications?

Can someone please tell me where to find parts for a Predator 301cc Hemi? All I can find are parts for the small head

Clean the crank up have the rod resized and deck the block the same amount put some rings back in it.. a fire it up.. u can have a back up motor

been using 20wt (5w20) race oil to get a little more power. Seems to work good.

Basically pre-ignition? So let me ask, do run a billet connecting rod?

I'm in a similar situation. My connecting rod broke and I can't find a sure replacement. Any sugestions? I don't thing the 301 and 301 Hemi rods are the same size.

What is a advance key ? Cause I have a 301 and I am doing mods to it

Bought a '2015 predafor $100 e bay shipting included today

Guess you didn’t use Mobil one 15 /40 synthetic

you were running the engine with the stock billet rod without the metals

Will this motor work on an industrial cement mixer

Onto much oil was your issue period and only run sae 30 in summer and 5w 30 in winter 🥶 and again was not your timing just way to much oil

The too-much-oil theory: wouldn't the slinger be perfect for whipping the oil into a froth, if that were going to happen, at the best of times. That's why this theory doesn't make sense to me. Edit: wait, does this engine have no oil-slinger?

😯🔥

Too much RPM , and bad oil sae40wt. I used that 30years

You don't seem that confident that it got too hot, that it was the "wrong" oil weight or type, that had too much oil, or that it had too much timing. How did you conclude it was all those things that caused the rod to pile-up and not that you degoverned a stock engine and ran it at sustained high RPM and high load in a boat?

Um...You do know that once hot 5W30 and 10W30 are the same right? Both oils are rated as 30wt oils when at normal HOT operating temperature. So, they are equivalent where an engine spends 99% of its life.

It was destroyed because you didn't put a billet rod and that is the only reason not being too advanced

Spit it the fuck out dude. Damn.

The older non hemi design is more durable.

You ought to try the Engine Coatings.

Thats not a timing issue

LONG STORY SHORT IF IT AINT BROKE DONT FIX IT

No shit he talks to much talk about repeating yourself

"How did you conclude it was all those things that caused the rod to pile-up and not that you degoverned a stock engine and ran it at sustained high RPM and high load in a boat?" E X A C T L Y

You talk to God damn much! You keep repeating yourself over and over.