Whirlpool / Kenmore 90 series dryer not getting hot - thermal cutoff fuse repair / replacement 

@@pete0205 Sorry for the delayed response and much thanks for the view and compliment!

@@lauramarx2109 I appreciate the compliment! I’m glad to be able to help! Thanks for watching!

My apologies for the delayed response. You are welcome and thank you for watching!

They truly are easy to work on. I have to convince my wife to not buy a new set every time we go into Home Depot or Lowes. I tell her those are $300-400 repairs if a circuit board goes out! Thanks for watching! TPO&O

What would be the indicators/signs the ELEMENT needs replacing

Can I test thermostat and thermal cut off without taking off the terminals and without having to remove the element housing?

Same here with my friend who doubts the value of repairing this one.​@TexasPatriotOffRoadAndOutdoors

Glad to help! Thanks for watching!!!

This what makes the RU-vid community awesome - helping people.

Your welcome!

I really appreciate the comments. Thank you for watching!!

It turned out that my heating element had no continuity. I removed it, got the part number and ordered one for $19. I could see the break in the coil. Thanks again. @MattsGarageMiscDIY

@@Mattie-k3m awesome! Saving that $$$$. I tell people all the time, to just try and do your own repairs!

I have tried and it does work! Was about to post a short on that!

Glad to have helped! Thanks for watching!

You’re welcome. Glad to have helped!

Glad to have helped. Thanks for watching!

And same to you!

Glad to help. Thanks for watching!

You are more than welcome!

@@Amyhelpsall my first guess would be something with the control panel. Have you replaced anything on the back of the panel?

You are very welcome! This was one of those repairs that was frustrating but finally worked! Thanks for watching.

Glad to have helped. Thanks for watching!

You are welcome!

Did you try testing or replacing the thermal fuse yet? (ie, the white plastic one he mentions at 2:30) I'm dealing with the same issue as you. (dryer tumbles but does not heat) I did replace the aforementioned thermal fuse because it was the cheapest ($6 on Amazon) and easiest one to access without removing the entire front panel and because it worked to fix the issue in the past, but unfortunately, this time it didn't. Lol I haven't tested or replaced any of the other parts that you've replaced yet. (ie, the cutoff fuse, thermostat, or heating element) but those will be the next thing I try. I was reluctant to remove the entire front door panel like he did, but I guess I'll have to in order to access the other parts. Oh well, I hope this works.

​@@mkmstillstackin I replaced 5 parts in total. The thermostat, cycling thermostat (I think that's what it's called. I'm actually terribly confused by the names some of the pieces), thermal fuse, thermal fuse cut off, and heating element. Turns out, there was a problem with my electricity (caused by contractor crap) and my dryer was never even broken. I'm annoyed at the hours and hours I spent researching and trying to fix it but my dryer should be good to go for another 15 years and I learned a lot! Depending on your dryer, everything should be accessible by removing the front of machine. For me, the thermal fuse and cycling thermostat are located under the drum and very hard to access without removing the drum. I gave it a shot though and was able to do it. Figuring out part compatibility was actually the hardest part. I have a 90 series Maytag. These are the parts I purchased: www.amazon.com/dp/B07L8F53H4?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details www.amazon.com/dp/B07J2Z4QXQ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details (becayse thermal fuse in 4 part kit wasn't compatible) www.amazon.com/dp/B07P734P1R?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details I hope that helps.

@@BiTemeeDurgtai Thank you for that update! So happy to hear you were able to get to the root of your problem and get your dryer working again! Indeed, the various terms are confusing. I was able to access and test my igniter, which was good, but that was about it. My other parts were just too hard to access without removing the drum, which I refuse to do. So, I think I'm going to move on and get another machine. Lol Oh well, at least I gave it a shot.🙂 Congrats to you again! This was, indeed educational.

Thank you!!

Howdy to you. What make model and approximate year is your dryer?

@@TexasPatriotOffRoadAndOutdoors I was able to figure it out from this video from Karen. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-VxjoloPERug.htmlsi=QHSy5kzW3n_b-0kn It ended up being the thermal fuse. Kenmore 90 Series #77902791 Thermal Fuse Part #3390719

@@agrohippiechick awesome! I just watched that video as well, thank you for the link! Also, thank you for watching my video as well!!!

Glad to have helped. Thanks for watching!

You are welcome! Thank you for watching!

If I remember correctly, mine was located on the heater element housing. You can check if it’s bad with a VOM, using the ohm setting. I would guess that to be your culprit. Good luck and thanks for watching.

@@patriciahamilton57 Yes it is. However, due to having some electrical circuits, I believe gas dryers may have some thermal cut offs as well!

Hey! I would suspect the timer mechanism as the main culprit. If you have a local used appliance person, they may have a “used one” you could swap and test. (I’m fortunate to have A Better Deal appliance and HVAC repair in the Santa Fe, TX area, that has loaned me parts and advice on my repairs). You easily rule out the element by removing it and checking for continuity between the two connectors. I would also do the same with the two thermal cutoff fuses. Doing the above, could rule those three items out m, for the most part. Good luck and thank you for watching.

@@TexasPatriotOffRoadAndOutdoors - thanks for the quick reply! We will definitely look into those items. Appreciate your time!

@@RandyLundstedt I hope it gets you going!

3387747 is the Kenmore part number for my dryer. Thanks for watching.

Sorry for the delayed response. Unfortunately, I’m not sure what the part number is off hand. I guess I really need to start keeping a log of parts I replaced.

Have you checked for 220v to the element?

Yes. Checked. Pretty sure the problem is in the timer switch. Thnx for a very helpful video for a girl 🤪

@@darren1444 hey, glad to see you giving it a go!!!

You are very welcome! Thanks for watching!

My apologies for the late response. That is never good and is a major safety and fire hazard. Did you happen to correct it?

Not really anything in particular. It’s been awhile but don’t remember it being too hard to remove/access. Good luck, it’s worth a try.

I often wonder what goes through the heads of engineers - especially those in the automotive industry. It’s like they design things and have an unrealistic expectation that they won’t break. Another reason is that it forces the average Joe or Jill to bring their vehicle to a “Stealership” for said repair.

@@TexasPatriotOffRoadAndOutdoors heh, or otherwise they just enjoy torturing other engineers.

You will need to look at your wiring schematic. Mine was under the control panel folded up. Please don’t try to guess because it could cause a fire.

@@jaboa1117 I’m sorry for the delayed response but yes, on this model you do.

@@jaboa1117 Also, thank you for watching!!

If the element gets too hot and can/will cut off. If you’ve replaced both the thermal cutoff and fuse, you may try replacing the element - especially if you’ve cleaned all the duct work etc and it’s still giving you issues. I caution you not to bypass the thermal cutoff or fuse circuit, other than for testing purposes. They are “tripping” for a reason and I wouldn’t want to run the dryer like that because of risk of fire. Good luck and thanks for watching! TPO&O

@TexasPatriotOffRoadAndOutdoors I only bypasses to test. I got an infrared thermometer. The original was going open at 115F. The replacement high cut off was going open around 105... it was defective. I got a 2nd new one local and it stays closed and runs around 180F. The top of the metal housing got up to 207F max. That defective thermal cutoff had me running in circles. It's all good now.

@@fixitrod4969 i should have told you to grab an infrared thermometer, they are invaluable! Glad you got it figured out!

Lookin at the schematic, it shouldn’t matter, as both the thermal cut off and thermostat are simply a “switch”. Also, I will putting up a video soon about “resetting” the thermal cut off. You can actually slam the cut off on the counter or floor and it will reset it. And yes, if it overheats again, it will trip. Since I didn’t discover this neat little trick, I will credit another RU-vidr on my video.

Yes, you can replace the black wire with a similar sized wire and crimp the appropriate sized spades on the end.

@Texas Patriot Off-Road and Outdoors Thank you for the reply I ended up having to slam mine on the ground to reset it since store's weren't open because of Christmas and it actually got my dryer heating again. I think the reason why mine tripped out was I had something blocking the dryer vent

@@rodm2345 I’m glad to hear you got it going! Usually a blockage in the vent is the culprit! As a reminder, I wouldn’t leave the dryer running while you are gone from the house or at tonight while asleep, especially with the “reset” thermal fuse. Mine has been working flawless since my “reset” but I’m still cautious with it. Cody

@Texas Patriot Off-Road and Outdoors Well actually I don't think it worked I got a call saying clothes wasn't drying got home from work tested the parts for continuity everything checked off except the new thermal cutoff I removed the new one again and reset it tested it and got continuity replaced it watched the coils they started to glow but then 1-2 minutes after they shutoff so I have no clue what to do now I've been asking around and some say it might be the heating element

I generally use Amazon

Makes sense! Thanks for sharing!

Ok. That’s the beauty of our U.S. Constitution - and Country itself - the right to freedom of speech, among others. Regardless, hopefully my videos may provide assistance to you one day. Take care, TPO&O