Just a channel mainly on plastering ,roofing,roughcasting,coving,the things I've learned from apprentice to tradesman I will also be trying to demonstrate some methods that I've learned from other channels on RU-vid thanks to anyone that watches and a really big thanks to those that subscribe
Did it work out OK? I recently used some Dryzone bagged material to sort salts on a fireplace and surrounding. Only partially successful, I wonder if i should have used with a membrane as well however?
Nice work, subscribed! I've had loads of valley leaks over the years and multiple roofers attempt to fix it and it still leaks. The valley is where an extension joins the original house and I suspect they did not use an upstand on the valley lead so in heavy rain or when we have strong wind, the rain is forced under the tiles beyond the lead.
Type roughcasting into Google everyone I know know what roughcast means wet or dry different areas different sayings meanings that's all you have to say post some videos of your work
2 passes with k1 top coat onto new block you can leave it off the trowel before scratching back but I just find if you sponge it first it binds it all together I done it both ways and prefered sponging before going back to scratch it back hope this helps
I've heard of a welted drip and I know this from the edge folded back on itself around the perimeter of a flat roof where 4mm torch on felt has been used different areas have different names lol
Hi Gordon, what type of sponge is recommended for this type of work ? Would it be a medium or hard sponge for example. Does the density of the sponge differ from binding to finish coat too? Thank you
Medium grade sponge is best suited for it ,that's what I've been using if you are new to sponging you do need to suss out what works for you but the results I get are phenomenal
@@lewigas290 and don't listen to the haters if you can suss the sponge it's another way to leave a great finish try different trowels aswell semiflex and ultraflex speedskims but you will need to figure alot out on your own
Never say never mate is my way of thinking. No one ever got anywhere by dismissing a way of doing things when you haven’t even tried it yourself. Still each to their own. Thanks for your advice I appreciate it. 👍
I am so glad I live in South off England and have never had re do a valley the way slates are fitted in Scotland! Direct to the boarding looks a nightmare job ! You must have to pick the perfect day's to do jobs like this .
As a fellow roofer mate a wee piece of advice 👍🏻 always put a vapour barrier between the lead and the roof usually A1f bitumen paper or fleece 👍🏻 stops the lead from oxidising underneath as much and gives it better protection 👍🏻 also when you are dressing the lead like that try and use a spoon dresser and perhaps a little heat into the lead which you minimise dressing and no dress marks over the lead 👍🏻
I think I mentioned that in one of the videos geotechstyle is what I normally use but only if customer pays for it I do maybe 3 roofs ayear if I'm lucky rest of time is k-rendering and plastering but I do know about barrier between lead and surface cheers anyway 👍
@redx11x not necessarily waterproof, but it stops the lead from rubbing on the exposed wood to allow expansion and contraction without fracturing. Breathable membrane is not supposed to be used as it breaks down pretty fast when the lead starts to oxidise. But these days you find alot of people use it .👎
My plasterer has just stapled the mesh to the wall and is skimming on top. Err is this a terrible way to do things? He hasn't embedded the mesh into a bonding or skim coat!
There should be NO cement used in this. You should instead be using lime, NHL 3.5, or better still, lime putty or a hot lime. The cement to too hard. It will retain water and cause spalling.
Believe it or not I know this as the lime method let's it breath but just doing what I was told to do and I guarantee there's loads of people that will do it this way but thanks for the information goid for the future
@@onpointplastering I did the very same thing to my house way back in 1984. Builders told me that it was the right thing to do.I have just redone it in lime (nhl2). I found that the cement was causing water to come through the soft sandstone. This was damaging the face of the stone.
You can but I never put naked flames near a house lol a heat gun might be better option heard some horror stories of houses going up in flames and saw the aftermath of one such incident cheers for watching👍💪
I've had 2 dogs running around on it for 2 years and it's still like new and I'm not joking but buy quality and do the job correct and you can't go wrong
@@onpointplasteringThat's encouraging to hear, I'm in the same boat with dogs and a sloped garden. Has the sub base shifted at all over the years? I'm worried my dogs running around will push it down the slope over time. Thanks
@@NIIS150 no as I put 4x2 (dug a small trench) underneath before laying grass I nailed through it with 6inch nails worked brilliant no movement whatsoever
These type of slates for me are the best in the world, so thick and durable, we re slated our house in 2009 but the orignal slates had been on since 1864
I make sure I do a strong pva mix apply that over old walls if the walls are full of hairline cracks then I bed in fiberglass mesh ,let the pva dry as much as possible most times I pva and prep the night before timings all depend on room temperature and the background there's no real time to it just what finish you are happy to leave I first and second coat with the same mix have done so for 20 years never had a come back
If its square slates similar to those slates they will double nail all of them that was just a repair job for a mate that's going to get his roof re slated pretty soon now
@@onpointplastering I don’t have time to be getting people to video me chapping slates on not does the other boy we are to busy nailing each slate twice and 3 storms what’s that 1 year 7 year time the wind will fuck that roof
@@deanbarber5576 but you've got time to troll through RU-vid how busy are you 7 days a week 12 hour shifts by any chance do you have a years worth of work ahead of you and the roofs getting re done that's why it's not double nailed
Gordon, I got quoted £5k from a Glasgow company to tidy up my front facade but my old bricky, John, said he can repoint it. In terms of cleaning the actual stones up, would grit blasting do (lightly of course)?
Look in to that 1 I seen a fireplace get sand blasted and it turned out horrendous there's a company that does soft washing mainly for k-rend just depends on stonework if it's soft or hard
@@onpointplastering Gordon, thanks for the reply and excuse the late response. Actually, I am using a K rend system on my external wall insulation at the moment. The new build and existing build was base-coated with HP12 and then insulation (eps) applied over the top. Then, another basecoat and now we are applying Tudor chips over it. I will look at K rend products too for overcoating the sandstone (breathable for vapour diffusion of course).
Jeez I do roof slating roof tiling ,plastering ,roughcasting wet and dry hit ,k-rend,coving dot dab leadwork and your chinning me about a name if you do your research is a term used in Scotland all over to describe this work type roughcastung into Google and go to images thanks for watching 🤣
@@onpointplastering how do I make the rough cast mate ? Is it stones in the mix just like concrete and then dash it on the scratch coat like pebble dash
@@darrenmorgan6735 roughcast/wethit has the chips mixed through it that's a dry hit where you just spread the mortar on then cast the chips on I now use pre bagged renders for my dry hit and k-rend overdash /roughcast where you just add water alot easier
Depends where you are located different names this is a dry hit and when aggregate is mixed with sand cement its a wet hit roughcast ,pebble dash, Harling roughcast to me is either a wet or dry hit in my area everyone calla it this hope this helps
Nice 👍🏻 i need to do my house its the exact same as this, Sand and cement and im sure the Stone is called “Spar” do you add a Waterproof treatment to the render you made ? I always used ready mixed render with fibreglass in it
Where’s the cover ? It’s underneath the 2nd course abound it that’s where you get headlap and it less than 2 inch from the centre of the slate basically right in the water channel it’s a leak
@@deanbarber5576 making yourself look like you don't know how to work with slates that next slate fully covers the nail plenty of side lap and covet from slates I take it your not a roofer
@@deanbarber5576 making yourself look very foolish 1.24 full slate over nail doesn't need anymore cover as that covers it by itself like a single lap tile god I really want to see your work now
Also in future only ever nail the very top of the lead to allow expansion and also even further water proofing, the next peice will be covering all the nails with the 150ml lap
May I suggest using a blow torch to heat the lead up it becomes very much more maluable so easier to work with and boss, it won't end up looking like a wonky old bit of tin like yours does
I've seen people do that in the past but no way would I put any flame near a roof just asking for trouble and everyone had started somewhere learn from mistakes made
Nice, always liked slating in valleys etc,just a simple tip bud, I'd dress some of those tails also as I see you've recut the most of the valley (wondered why you hadn't numbered them)... keep up the work
Hey I remember you 😆 On Facebook's plasterers talk forum Remember #MasterYourMaterials? Haha Washing the bond out from between the addgregate does not strengthen the plaster
Never had a problem if I hit a problem then I change it its the age old argument you do what works for you and I will always try out different things and methods for myself if it works goid if it doesn't then its easily sorted 😉
