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This channel features outdoor tractor work as well as other equipment that makes living in Minnesota a lot easier. We review products that we believe in and give honest unbiased reviews.
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It's the future, it's technologically rich and will only get better and stronger. Eleven years ago we went 84 miles on a charge, today over 500 miles and recharge in under 20 minutes to 80%. The cost of lithium batteries has dropped 97% in the last thirty years and new battery technologies will replace lithium and cobalt - it will only get better. Right now I run my house on LiFePo4 batteries that are safe, recyclable and will last 20 to 30 years.
I inherited my dads 2003 Harley Sportster…it lived in Maryland since new ( 21 years).. it is ALMOST…IMMACULATE….but now it is in my garage in Florida… a few miles from the ocean…so i need to get ahead of the ravages of humidity and salt air….this product…. 1) is it safe for aluminum engine parts? 2) even after fully rinsing is there a concern with residue negatively responding to the heat of the engine? ( engine block, cylinders and exhaust heat) 3) will the overspray damage the other metals and paint of the engine?… plastics and leather? Everybody wants to talk about shiny shiny pretty pretty…I just want to keep the bike clean and protected. All comments /input from experienced craftspeople will be very appreciated Thx
The welds look great for your first welds with the machine Jon! I also own a titanium, I have the titanium mig 140 and Iv welded every single thing on my channel using that welder and it’s been amazing.. great duty cycle too and Iv pushed it way passed its duty cycle many times which is a no no and it’s still holding up great. Cant wait to see your new video ! 👍🏻
I am doing the filter upgrade and moving my pump also. very poor design placing everything underneath especially for me that has the mid mower. That bracket makes it extremely difficult to do maintenance on that.
This is basically an acid (or is it a "base"), it will etch the shit out of the surface of the aluminum, and while it will look "better" for a bit, the now more porous surface will oxidize QUICKLY and look even worse than it did before in short order. Just my .02
A few years ago when I was looking for a little more HP, I stumbled on an LS dealer. When I found out I could get a cab with AC/Heat for less than the open station green one, I nervously traded my green for blue. NO regrets! The LS has been very good to me and the dealer is pretty amazing to work with.
Same thing happened to me 2 days after I got them. Traded them in and got a pair of aluminum toe boots, wore them on ice and fell and broke my shoulder to the point that it'll never be the same.
One issue I did experience though - having extremely limited experience with hydraulic lines... I absolutely overtightened either the fittings on the cylinder or the actual hoses onto the fittings. First drive out of the barn I had fluid going EVERYWHERE like a damn geyser. Don't believe I experienced any damage to the threads - just think moronic first timer over-tightening of everything over the o-rings. Project is slated for today to re-do these with new o-rings and just a 1/2 turn over hand-tight on all fittings is what I've been told. Anyone with any recommendations on this fix?
Lots of folks saying the danger of these and over manufacturer recommendation - totally understand. For me - two massive issues this completely solves: first, my tractor BARELY has enough juice with the pallet forks on to be able to lift the front snowblower (while on a 72"W thin pallet) up onto my racking system. With this kit, moving at a very slow speed over to the rack, now solves this issue - essentially saving me INSANE extra work 2x a year. Worth it there alone. Second: we own a roof tent for our Jeep Gladiator and it's set pretty high off of a lifted vehicle on top of the racks. Stock putting this up there with pallet forks isn't even an option - won't get high enough. Again - same thing here now... now at slow speed I can get into position and hit the height I need to slide it over onto the vehicle racks. Simply said - these two issues were almost enough to cost me $30k in upgrading from a BX to an LX or L (with similar attachments that don't carry over)... with this part, I can stay in my BX and just do daily rentals for the bigger jobs that happen 1x a year (or less).
I went for a 2380. I do miss a three point position control. Functionaly I miss that most. Also missing are split breaks. The diff lock has a bad reputation, and is tough to function. The fuel system is irksome. Not filter at the fill inlet, that is lame. Cold can gell fuel here. Traditional visiable filters are a no brainer. 1 ½" wheel spacers made a world of differance. The ride is more comfortable, and they do not interfear with the 60" belly mower. The loader lift is a bit lite, but the tractor can't handle much more anyway. It is what it is. More break out power would not hurt. An economy rpm mode would be nice. Often huge power is not needed for mowing, the option to reduce engine rpm would also quiet things down. My unit came with the radial tires. These are great. I have a bigger tractor for rough work, otherwise adding belly shielding would be a must. There are some short cuts for replacing the plastic hydro cooling fan. Compacting any thing has a price. The BX size is what I wanted. I can run under normal over head doors with out thinking!
That’s a great hack! I worked in the building industry for 41 years and have wrestled with stuck buckets many of times. I use this same technique to remove bicycle handlebar grips
You know I had a brand new pair of keen boots and they did the same thing like right out of the box. I got a hold of keen and they sent me a new pair no charge and told me to keep the damaged ones.
I don't know about you, but if I was going to pressure was my mower deck, it would not be within 4 feet of my vehicle. Would be a lot easier to move the vehicle than it would be to wash it.😂
If you have an EU2200i, you can follow these instructions for the most part. When it comes time to remove the emulsion tube (the long, pipe-shaped jet), you will need to push it down with a screwdriver or pick tool. You can access it through the choke area. This video shows exactly what you'd need to do for that part: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-znFS9WGf8BY.htmlsi=xi7__xRCeqBuEO8D&t=514 These instructions worked great for me. Thanks for making such a helpful video.
Месяц назад
If you'd contact them they'll send you another pair