Shane Tecklenburg is a racing engine management systems expert. He "tunes" high performance and racing type vehicles all over the world. These are some small snipets of days in the life of an American Racing Consultant.
That sheet metal work is gorgeous! Did RCR supply all the sheet metal work also? Amazing vehicle. What's the cost out the door complete if you don't mind? Thank you.
That sure is a beautiful car even if it is a replica. It’s got a V12 in it too. Wow you guys do some amazing work. That is beautiful. Also I love the way you guys describe what’s going on and the way you articulate everything about the fuel air Dino everything just beautiful man what a beautiful car. I’m sure the owner is gonna be super happy about that toy way you guys do it at your facility
The two gentlemen in the picture, the younger gentleman and the older gentleman doing the explaining and the computer work you guys just really explain everything very well. It’s really nice to hear. It’s nice to people share those if you wanna call them secrets but it’s just nice that you share the information and we know what’s going on with the car cause I built some thing in the garage and I could’ve used that along time ago. I ended up finding out what I needed, but that information that you guys have and share with the public is really important. It’s really nice and the car is just beautiful that Ferrari.
some thermostats (same type as this) have bleed holes, you can make them yourself. while closes there will be some low flow but that should just reduce temperature variations . mine keeps the coolat steady 185-187 in all conditions
@@TunedbyShaneT Indeed, but they aren't. That's the point: the outer 3 cylinders are connected by the primaries here. Literally zero scavenging. So much left on the table here
Shouldn't the thermostat be on the engine? Also wiuld an electric type waterpump be better for this application? I love these vids you do inspiration ❤
This is precisely the problem. The thermostat is so far from the engine it never gets hot enough to open. Mechanical water pump is ALWAYS preferable to an electric pump.
Build Quality looks better then factory was when the original was made. Current era engine is going to perform a lot better and a lot more reliably too. Just looks like the whole thing needs a lot of sorting out.
I know it's not ideal, but I think the "crankiness" of the cold start (including the black smoke) is actually kinda cool and reminiscent of a vintage carbureted race car. "It's not a bug, it's a feature" type deal 😉
Thanks for sharing, this one was cool and crazy to have to run to ems laptops at once... the injection timing results were interesting to hear about. 👍👍
@@TunedbyShaneT both intake and exhaust cams advance in the midrange and retard at high rpm? I've heard mixed things about retarding cams at high rpm some tuners don't do it they leave them a little bit advanced but not as much advanced as in the midrange
@@AJv-kb2pc normally with a dual VVt engine, when the throttle is wide open and you have full power demand, the intake cam is fully advanced at low speed from 1500-2000 rpm until about 3500-4000 and then it retards back to home position by about 5000. The exhaust cam remains at home position until about 4000 and then retards 15-20 degrees by 6000 or so and remains there through the rest of the rpm band. This is a generalization of course not every engine wants these values but most will have the best performance by doing so.
@@AJv-kb2pc the inlet cam is fully advanced at low speed and back to parked position around 5000 the exhaust cams retard about 15 deg beginning at 5500
Thank you for putting in the time to make these videos Shane, I know its a lot of extra work on your end but we love getting to see everything from your perspective, one of the best calibrators in the world. Awesome project, great work Shane 👍
Vacuum or no vacuum, the location of the thermostat and the fact that the bypass offered no restriction, meant no engine temperature was being communicated to the thermostat to make it open. Vacuum bleeding would not have solved the problem.
@@TunedbyShaneTare you saying that there was an air pocket behind the thermostat? That would cause the thermostat not to work, I had a similar issue after building up a Honda engine from scratch, air trapped in the system. However, an old drag racer helped me out, he had a trick for it, we opened a threaded inlet directly to the cooling system in the block, a bunch of steam came out and the temp stabilized immediately. The aspirin trick is a good one, I’ll try to remember that.👍🏼
@@martindworak no the thermostat was mounted at about the lowest part of the system. It’s doubtful it would have had an airlock. But the way the plumbing was done and the location of the thermostat were far enough away from the engine, that the water could not communicate the engine temperature to the thermostat. Mostly this was because there was no restriction in the bypass that allowed the water to circulate into the tank on the engine.
Richer mix burns slower. Although that header design follows the same footsteps as the original, it leaves a few out to the pasture. The issue being uneven scavenging. The intake very much depends on the bodywork, there could be some sort of ram air effect, but then again wrong scoop design can suck the inlet dry. Both of these issues depend on the need to follow the original design, which had trumpets and carbs and the exhaust integrated to the rear diffusor. With a different pipe work and re-tune, it would do 600. As it sits, 570 is a stout number. EDIT: YT took my reply button away, so.. Better be safe than sorry with the tune, especially when the hardware isn't up to the task. Next step imo would be taking it to the track and logging a few laps with full fairing. Then re-tuning or re-doing the pipe work if need be.
I’m guessing we could have leaned on it and got it to make near 600, but it wasn’t really worth it in this case. Also not sure how much absorption there is in the 6 speed Albins behind it or the half shafts with the angle they are on.
Had this fuel filter problem on an aircraft. Brand new carbon fiber tanks would plug up the filter with carbon dust almost intantly. Had to flush the tanks a few times.
I was gonna ask if the pivot point tries to add or reduce angle with speed but the way it was acting in those slows doesn't seem relevant. Oof yea control logic. Driver controlled like press to pass sounds smart!
A VK56DE is my dream build! I don't know much but IMO it's super slept on. Bottom end looks so stout and the heads should flow like a VQ35 which is no slouch!
So Cool! I heard some where that there is a custom roller rocker program in the works. Seems like that could give it longer service life and let it take some meaner ramp angles
Button is the way to go. Pressure release on the button and default mode to full wing. It is still several tenths per every straight section. At minimum 5-10 secs, and when fully utilized, 30+. Yes you can get to the top without DRS, but you will get there significantly faster with it. A good old fashioned roll dial would be the most ideal. Then you could literally dial the wing with your thumb for every condition. For every wing the side blades are the most critical element. They decide how much pressure the wing can hold, and which way the car itself is turning.
