Great video and very helpful. I used a spring bar tool from a watch battery and band replacement tool kit to push the hand spring into the correct position. These can be bought very cheaply on Amazon.
Basically I think if you shoot outside. It should be no points. I understand you're trying to make it more fair. But the people who want scout rifles, don't want fair. They want to be good.
I love your presentation, and the fact that you do not edit out the inevitable glitches. I started amateur smithing my own firearms in the 60’s and 70’s. You could say I studied at the School of Hard Knocks with a few lesson’s learned on the expensive side. I parlayed this into an FFL and 16 years of professional work from 1980 to 1996. I competed in PPC, IPSC, USPSA, SOF and 3 Gun. This gave me exposure to LE, Military and other clients who appreciated my work. I preferred to work on S&W, but did Colt, Ruger, and a few of the foreign makes that are basically clones. Eventually I got into auto pistols and got a contract to build 20 custom 1911’s for a Central Valley shop. In 1997 I retired and moved up in the Sierras. 27 years later, I am putting on a new pair of Hogue grips on my ancient Ruger Redhawk 7.5”. I had never thought about doing a trigger job on it, but decided to pull out the stones and Dremel and do some polishing. After removing the trigger group, I was separating the parts and all went well until I lifted out the hand. I knew and could see the spring plunger holding it forward…but soon experienced the “air soluble” nature of the spring/plunger. USPS is scheduled to deliver the parts (which are hard to find) tomorrow.
Question: Was there something wrong with the factory hand? Just curious as to why replacing it and if there's a reason other than the metal being harder on the aftermarket one. Thank you
is there a drop in kit anyone makes? AR15 have about 900 different aftermarket triggers on the market, some of which are amazingly awesome... doesnt anyone make them for these smith revolvers? i googled and didnt find much on it...
Thanks for this. I just got a 686, my first revolver, and couldnt figure out why it was giving me trouble at the range. Luckily the staff there was amazing, he helped my experience, managed to finish shooting. This was very educational, couldnt find anything in the SW book that came with it.
This is to state something that is almost too obvious, but is never actually stated. When you are pressing a trigger (especially in double action) you are compressing springs and moving parts in the gun's action. You can reduce your effort to move the trigger by replacing your current springs with weaker springs (that do not require as much force to compress). When a part moves in contact with another part, there is friction. It takes force to overcome that friction. That force comes either from the finger moving the trigger or from a compressed spring getting uncompressed. If you do not reduce the frictional forces, then the weaker springs may not exert enough force to move the part back into place (e.g., trigger reset). The result is that the gun may not work. The polishing of parts is important. Replacing springs is only half the job. This is a well executed video showing you what you need to do. If you don't want to do everything Scott demonstrates, then read what he does for a level 1 trigger job and do just that.
Love that Rod runout fixture. Thanks for showing that. I’ve not seen that set up and that’s awesome. I love how you barely put pressure on the cheater bar and it gave you a couple thou. I like how you said to go slow and sneak up on it. Good video.
I have a Taurus Judge that the cylinder is very difficult to open. The center pin is releasing the cylinder but it’s catching somewhere else but can’t put my finger on it. Any advice?
You can clean the stickiness off rubber using white vinegar, 5% or 10%. You might need to soak the handle in the vinegar for 5 or 10 minutes. I had some Oakley's where the rubber had become sticky, and the vinegar and paper towel got rid of the stickiness.
Hey, hi! -update! turns out I can and did tap the frozen part and got it open. I first tried the screw-but it did not budge. So I wrapped the pistol in cloth, put it in the vice and tapped gently with a brass hammer..(closest I had to plastic). This would be a H&R top break 32 short revolver. It is a beautiful pistol although very small. Beautiful bluing-excellent condition, now oiled. Thank you for giving me the idea VDC!..now I need to find the serial number on it and know what I have as to production year etc.
Greeting Scott, I really enjoyed your 686 trigger flicks. Let me ask you a question on my 686-6 plus? My cylinder is extremely loose on the crane. It just about wiggles in every direction. How is this problem repaired?
Just found your channel here. I did an "action job'" on my 586 several years ago and while it turned out fantastic, your tips and how to made me realize that I could have done it more efficiently and better. So thank you for this albeit it's 6 years past due. If you are still doing these, I do have one question. Tho.
Please help my 45/,410 judge . I Loaned the judge out to a friend for the weekend . He brought it back with the Cylinder out . He said he tried to clean it and removed the cylinder but he couldn't instal It back . So my question is how to reinstall cylinder back in the revolver . Please help .
You saved my bacon, many thanks, now that I realized there’s a hard to see pocket for the short end of the spring then the spring coil sits in a pocket of its own and snap she’s together, yee Haa. Any tricks to keep that sharp end of the hand arm from scratching the blued part of the gun as you slip the trigger off its stud to remove it?
