Check out PDF patterns and leather products on my Etsy page: www.etsy.com/shop/JamesBerryLeather
About my leather working? I use only vegetable tanned (or vegtan) leather that I dye myself and hand-stitch using the classic saddle-stitch technique. I mostly enjoy making bags and wallets but I'm open to new challenges and exciting pieces. I also like restoring old tools and sharing the restoration process with you guys.
Check out the tools I use and recommend here: www.amazon.com/shop/jamesberry Any purchase you make through this link will really help me out :) Nearly all my leather comes from the French provider DécoCuir : www.decocuir.com
That’s lovely. As a beginner on leather work, I’ll start with this soon. Thanks for free pdf. What’s the spacing size? 3.85mm? Is it French style iron?
This wooden wallet is amazing! The 3D wood texture print on leather is so unique and stylish. It’s incredible how you’ve combined craftsmanship with modern design to create something both functional and beautiful.
Your leathercrafting itself is a wonderful think to watch, but you also add some exemplary parenting in action! Thank you so much, you gives u hope that even after being father we can still responsibly pursue this hobby/career 😂
And looking at this isn’t the bevel on the wrong side? I’m left-handed and if I’m going to use this, let’s say up against the straight edge. I don’t want the bevel there. I want the flat side of the blade there which means I’d have to buy what you call, the right hand blade
If the blade gets more than strow yellow/brown by heat (redish, blue or even grey) the steal has lost most of its hardness. Learn about temperature treatment of carbon steel and tempering colors.
Just dropping in, because I saw the Indispensable knife in the thumbnail. Order at your own risk! Mine came and it couldn't even hold its blade as the bolts didn't go all the way through, and their heads were terribly pointy and uncomfortable. A knife handle that can't hold a knife is what I got. Chartermade got associated with these clowns, too bad.
ROFL At first I thought you said it came with "a four-letter version for those in the US." I spent a couple beats trying to find the joke about Americans swearing before my brain went back and re-parsed it!
It is overrated, this leather is for the clout because it gets patina very quick but not as beautiful as other leather like chromexcel and shell. Wickett and craig is also another good choice for a quality patina. But hey this leather is good for practice as most leather worker praised its ease of work.
Hey James, do you know what the function of the stitches between the pieces near the lowest lace holes is? It looks like you left it out and I'm wondering about leaving it out too, but I'm worried you did something else clever to compensate!
James: I love what you do with your 3D printer. Not only the texture pattern, but you dye holder with a spot for the dawber. Excellent. If you can imagine it, you can probably 3D print it. Every time you get a great idea printed and it works, it justifies the purchase of the printer. On another note, if I might suggest a better free hand (no stitching pony) method. Eric Corter has a video on his 'Leap Frog' method of 'in air' stitching. He has been doing it for over 15 years. I learned it and haven't used my pony for years. His method produces very even clean stitches and the technique allows for very fast, accurate stitching. It is only a suggestion. Leather workers are usually attached to their construction methods. Thank you again for the video. (my favorite video of yours is the refurbish of the Swiss Army pouch) Wish I could find one to play with.
Thank you so much for the kind message and for the tip on the Leap Frog method! I only stitch without a pony for the smaller stitch lines (and even then I'll often bust out a stitching pony). I'll take a look at how Eric does it as it could definitely help save some time :D
@@JamesBerry I made a cowboy hat (Tony's pattern from DieselPunkRo) and only used the Leap Frog method. Eric's method saves the time moving the piece in the pony. Have fun.
Technically yes, it will help a bit but could also do quite a lot of damage depending on the type of leather and whatever was previously used to protect it. If you have vegetable tanned leather with no artificial top coat, you can try gently rubbing it with a damp cloth. If possible I would still recommend you find some saddle soap (can be found in most places selling leather goods or horse-ridding equipment) - it will both clean and moisten your leather in a safe way.
This a great idea, wouldn't mind doing a few bits for myself, i already have 2 , 3d printers, thank you for showing us this idea. What would be a cheap press for a beginner please ?
I've been printing stamps commercially for 10 years for leather stamping. They stand up very well over time, I've never had a stamp fail in many years. If used correctly the stamp work is amazing. I print at 33% infill with at least 3 shells. My depth of the stamp is 3/8". I use a simple Harbor Freight arbor press with good quality veg tan leather. Most of my stamps are created with the Lulzbot mini with 2.85 PLA filament.
Erf, sadly not... I can however recommend RU-vid and some specific channels to start learning. Go check out some of Leodis Leather early videos - there's a goldmine of information out there if you know what you are looking for.
Currently nothing as I don't have time to make any (they tend to end up as gifts for family). Moreover, I'm really bad at pricing and don't feel comfortable giving you any tips on that front :') Maybe you could ask people on different Facebook groupes related to leatherwork.
been looking to make one of these myslef. the leather i have is alot 2softer2 than the one you have in the video. its 1.6mm supposedly. can you recommend how to stiffen up the leather? i was thinking about possibly a felt backer?
Not sure on this one as it really depends on the stiffness of the leather you have. Definitely sticking a felt liner would help stiffen it up and help cushion whatever is being stored inside.
Looks like you are still getting some dye rubbing off after the conditioner was added. Do you add anything else to the top to stop the dye bleed? I could see this being an issue if someone wears light colored pants or coat and their purse or belt left color behind from friction contact.
I have always added some hard wax on top and have never had issues with dye rubbing off on cloths or anything. Not sure if this would be true also for water based dyes.
Ive got exact bag from 50. My have original belt attached into back side of bag (22mm wide). It's interesting because I do not have mounting holes drilled on the sides but back side. Yours do not have any holes at the back side. It means they had two belt mounting systems.
Thanks for your message, I'm always curious to hear about the variations in these bags! I wouldn't be surprised if they had different versions of this bag for different uses, or maybe it evolved over the years and was adapted... or maybe the user themselves modified the bag to suit their specific needs. Anyhow, great to read yours is still in use :D
i dropped that usefull knife few times and the fixator mechanisms stopped to hold the blade the way it does. its still holds, but now you CAN pull with your fingers. i was trying to fix that but cant find a way, nor the video tutorial. there is spring in there and i have no any clue, where it belongs. please, help, desperately need in advice, dont wanna switch that beautifull knife to a new one
Ah shoot I'm sorry to hear yours is not working anymore :/ I haven't needed to take it apart yet so am not able to help you here. Hope you find what you're looking for online!
I purchased veg tanned leather sneakers, but I'm not completely happy with the colour(sort of dark orange), so I was thinking about applying a darker shade shoe paste, but because it's veg tanned, I thought maybe it won't work properly, so I searched for a video hoping to find some help. Any recommendations, anyone? 😊
Fiebings leather dye and Pro dye are both alcohol based! The difference is that the leather dye is powder pigmented and the Pro is oil based pigmented.
I used your video as a guide to make my wife one, and I modified it a little with 2 pockets on the inside back and a few other minor changes, but it turned out AMAZING. I jokingly told my wife I'll never be able to pull that off again, so she can't mess it up or anything lol thanks for your help!!
Think you could get even better results by flipping the print and printing by the stamp detail on the print bed and getting a nice even textured surface, instead of the top layer lines that you can see on some stamps. The bed layer will always be better than the top layer. You can add supports and it doesn’t matter the surface quality where the supports hold the top of the stamp since it won’t touch the leather.
One thing you might want to do in Tinker Cad is to round the corners of the base for the stamp. My method (for other similar projects) is to: Bring in a block that will be cut down to the size of the finished base in the process. Set height to 20 mm, and then size x and y to be larger than the image you are stamping. Apply a Radius to the block. Make sure all the content will still fit within the block space Drag the new 'base' off to the side. Now bring in two "hole' blocks, setting them each for 9 mm in height, and sizing them to the dimension of the base. Center the 'base' on one of the hole blocks, then merge them. This will cut the bottom off the block leaving a flat surface.. Flip the base, and bring it down to the graph bed of the workspace, Center the 'base' on the other 'hole block. Again merge the two, You should have a rounded corner block to use as a base for your stamp. Drag it down to the bed, center the block on the bottom of the stamp image, mirror one or both for the stamp, and export the resulting STL. If you don't merge them, it's a lot easier to extract that base for later re-use on another stamp. The main reason for this is that having a rounded set of corners will leave less chance for a corner to break off, or if there is some reason that the stamp gets started off center, for the corner to end up stamping into the leather. Mostly the former means that at least this part will be less likely to be the reason a given stamp breaks or fails. There's still going to be durability issues with the stamping image of course. 🙂 I believe there are nozzles down to 0.1 mm as well, but as you've no doubt discovered, reducing the nozzle size dramatically increases the time it takes to print. I'd like to see a process that allows you to add some draft angle to the stamped image to improve it's durability, but that's a bit more than TinkerCad can do at the moment. Autodesk would like you to move operations like that into Fusion360, which considering you're doing this as part of a leather working business would likely engage their prohibitively expensive (for most of us anyway) licensing fees. As long as this works, and you're OK with the time it takes to print spares of stamps, and have the sliced versions ready to print replacements at the end of the day, or on demand if the printer is in the back room of your shop, that works too.
