I have been working with leather for a couple of years. I hope to share my love of leatherworking with other like minded individuals. From how-to videos, product reviews, and basic build videos; I'm hoping I can help foster your love of the ancient art of leatherworking.
Late to the video, but I took a slightly different approach with mine. I modified my strap-cutter using a disc cut from a leather offcut, rather than sandpaper. It grips really well.
I bought this edger from Tandy and it’s great! I use it every day on all thicknesses of leather and never have any problems. It’s made very well, sturdy and you can fine tune it to anything you’re working on. It’s triple AAA in my book.
OK having watched this and recently tried using 10 coat in my airbrush. I have some questions. What size needle did you use in the airbrush? What pressure did you use? Did you dilute the resin with water or anything else to keep it from clogging the airbrush? As I mentioned, I used tan coat straight out of the bottle and it just clogged up my airbrush, something fierce and took me forever to take it apart and clean it and get it working. And once you were done, what did you use to clean your airbrush? I hope to see some good answers from you.
I purchased a costly purse from a well-know, national brand. The seams will not lay flat due to leather thickness .. I love the purse & have even exchanged it once with them. I’ve opened the lining & have access to seams… can they be ’sliced’ without taking the seam stitches out ? Thank you
Thank you for this I’ve been running dyes through my brush and there’s no better way. Just a heads up from a model builder a real good cleaner is Windsor newton brush cleaner and restorer this stuff really works miracles on what it can get out. Thanks again for the video.
I did get a 5W xtool due to finances but wanted to at least get my feet wet as they say.. it's been hard to find videos to say what a 5W is or isn't capable of doing.. glad I found your video very helpful.. hopefully I can find more like this video regarding the 5W 😊
Just bought the Since brand from Tandy yesterday. It was sharp but not scary sharp which is what I like. Going through different grits of sandpaper up to 3000 grit and then buffing I had a mirror polish and a very sharp knife. On 9 ounce vegtan it cut through with very slight pressure. Haven’t tried any projects yet but have it ready. Your mention of the first two has been exactly my experience.
Great subject. I had a friend that happen to have a Japanese skiver. He let me draw out a pattern from the tool. Later made a skiver from a hacksaw blade made to cut like a foot thick of stainless steel from a metal company that throws them away after so much use. Beautiful knife. Keeps a sharp edge too. It's razor sharp an is no joke sharp. Cuts through leather like warm butter. I sure am glad to have this tool. I think if it ever sprouted legs, I would cry. I think one thing that makes it such a good blade is not just the high carbon steel, it's the mirror shine finish that helps so there is no drag at all going through the leather. This is just my opinion. It took me hours to finish this skiver.
You polish the die and wash it real good with soap and distilled water and dry it well then put a little beeswax on the surface that will eliminate that silvery substance that getting on your product. I bought some iron shoe lasts years ago now, but I did polish the shoe last piece to a high gloss and washed them as I said and they have never rusted again and are still clean to this day.. I only wiped a little beeswax on the surface and wipe the surface off so only a a seal was left on the metal. I actually did the procedure on all my tools I bought that I had to remove a lot of rust. Lucky for me when I got my 29k it was in great condition for a sewing machine that is over a 100 yrs old. Thanks for the video.
shows what you know. I’ve never excepted a single dollar for any review. I’ve done on any product. They may have provided the item, but my opinion is my own. If my opinion isn’t worth anything, then why are you watching a review video on a leatherworking tool?
Your instructions are always so clear, thanks for taking the time. I would like to learn more about the tools and techniques used to get the best edge to reduce bulk in a seam formed by sewing two pieces of leather right sides together. I'm thinking this would be a step where the edge is split rather than feathered down on an angle.
For the would be sofa dyer..(i realise this vid is not for that, but here is some info for the novice .I recently dyed a leather chair from light beige to black. I used a pro/oil dye for a deeper and richer black. The pro dye on this relatively large project will need at least over night to dry between coats (in a dry warm home with ventilation) and ideally 24hrs. The NON pro dye (by all expert accounts) takes much less time to dry for a similar project. Small undyed leather projects as shown here have different effects and times, so you must do your own research for your specific project.