I honestly have no complaints it’s pretty torquey and I run at least 50-55 mph with it. It will be better when I add an overdrive though. Thanks for watching!
I’m having a hard time getting my hub off on my ‘48-it’s permanently locked in for some reason…the previous owner never unlocked them. Would this stop me from getting it to come off, or does it not make a difference? I don’t want to get too rough with it
Great video! A lot of the links are outdated now for the parts and I’m trying to make sure I get the correct stuff. Any chance you could update some of the links?
I’m rebuilding a t19 basically doing the same thing you are in the video…. I took my shaft out first and second gears all came off but when I get to the third gear it has a c clip ring inside the 3rd gear and stops it from expanding also my transmissions reverse gear I don’t know if I can pull it off backwards safely? And ideas?
just what I was looking for. I installed Lock-Rites in my 1956 CJ wiith 25 front and 44 axles about 27 yrs ago. My offorading days are over so I need to put my gears back in. This is what I needed to refresh my memory on how I'll do it.
excellent info as usual...the Toyota starter is a cool coincidence that solves a problem for us...OEM willys starters are not cheap!!..the teeth on the starter are softer than the flywheel. i'm assuming this is done on purpose to sacrifice the starter gear teeth rather than the harder to change flywheel..
Very useful information! Thank you. I have been looking for a similar solution to a different interchange problem, haven't found any help on various forums. If you don't mind I'd like to toss it out here in hopes you or one of the viewers has an answer. I have a '66 IH Scout 152 slant four swapped into my '2A, stock IH flywheel, clutch and bellhousing. The pressure plate is shot and every source I have checked wants upwards of $350. for one. Is there a pressure plate for a more common (thus cheaper) aplication that will fit and work? Thanks for letting me ask and thanks for another great video.
i did a quick google search and there really doesn't appear to be much much choice...it looks like your parts are 'orphaned'...one other choice is the 'buy once, cry once' approach...if you can get your flywheel to a machine shop and get it drilled and tapped for the jeep pressure plate you can then use the relatively inexpensive jeep parts from now on.
Ok go on C&C equipment and get your parts and vehicles,jeeps, bulldozer tractors ,what ever you need m they are on RU-vid,and there phone # is-on that, thanks BigAl California.
nice job, it was about 40 yrs. ago i had an old [mid 60's] land cruiser. toyota parts were very to come by in oregon back then.i discovered that old chevy 235ci parts would crossover.[235 was very common back in the day] might be worth a look ]
Idk...with the 235 stuff, it's 60 year old plus stuff that's hard to come by and they just don't crank over like modern starters do. I think Jacob is on the right track here ..
There should be an Amazon link in the description under the video! If it doesn’t work email me at seven.bar.salvage@gmail.com and I’ll forward it to you!
Thank you for sharing. We’ve all made the same type of mistakes and you’re humble enough to share them unlike so many other RU-vidrs. We’re thinking about the issues right alongside you. It’s looking good. I’m glad you resumed work on the 3B. Looking forward to more.
thank's for this video. My cj5 1977 still has 4 drum brake and it's very difficult to adjust the front ones, a pain in the neck Did you adjust or install emergency brake in this video on your jeep? I didn't see it. Anyway this is an incredible job
This model Jeep has the e brake on the transfer case. Fortunately for you disk brakes was an option in 77 you should be able to source all the stock parts! Thank you!
Hey, Jacob. I wouldn't stress about that side mount on the transfer case much. On my 67 V6 CJ, for whatever reason, they did pretty much exactly what you did from the factory... except it most certainly wasn't 1/2" thick. It was probably 1/4" with a little "Z" bend in it to go under the transfer case ear and on top of the rubber mount. I'm assuming it's just kind of a stabilizer to keep the power train from rocking side to side and likely relieves a little stress on the transfer mount in a hard pull, etc. For what it's worth...the V6 Jeep's used a cable for the clutch. It worked good and except for a little mount tab for the cable ends, the rest of the system looked like every other Jeep. (IE..clutch pedal, throw out fork, etc).
For all of your Jeep needs look no farther than C&C equipment, Scott over there , has all jeep parts brand new and other parts, for all jeep sizes and styles, ,clint is the owner mand C&C equipment,has a RU-vid channel,and the phone number is right on the introduction,ok thanks , p.s. Advanced adapters in Paso Robles California has ant adapter engine the transmission you would ever want too, thanks BigAl California.
Great to see you back on the 3b. I think you could have used the steel plate and saved yourself some work. Bolt the transfer to the cross-member, then drill 2 new holes in the steel plate to match up to the 4 speed adapter.
You don't need the front trans mounts. They were for the p/u trks. Trying to send pics on Instagram. I had to change the imput shaft to a shorter one. The J trks had a 5 inch extension between the bell & the trans.
