Can verify that with the valet key in the ignition on #2 and a brand new cut master key fob from the dealer, this worked on a 2004 Golf TDI exactly as it did in the video. Thanks for saving me the $190 the dealer quoted me to program it!
After wiring mine up like this the brake lights are always on. Ive tested all the connections... and its wired properly. Brake switch is good. Cant seem to wrap my head around why its doing that..
First thing is to check your grounds. If you unbolted one or two in the build, get them grounded again. Next, Use a needle or a pin and see if there is voltage before the converter. If there is constant voltage on the brake wire (red/black) before the converter, problem is upstream in the car. If voltage is correct there (only voltage when the brake is depressed) then check that the converter is grounded and wired correctly, it’s possible you have a bad converter. If voltage is coming out of the converter correctly, then there is a missing ground or a problem in the tail lights themselves
Do you have a part number or know where I could buy a three pin connector for the vss And where do I find the blue lilac wire that comes out of the instrument cluster pin 3
I’m doing this swap and I have a 2004 1.8t auto with the 09a. Pin 39 is already taken with a white w red stripe wire. Its not going back to the TCU. Any idea why that is or what I should do next?
Thank god for continuity check cuz my pin 63 in tcu to pin 54 in ecu goes to 90 of the ecu, but my Bentley publishers said everything is the same as ur diagram
I'm working with a 06 golf tdi bew and 09a, it is a mk4, as I kept going I noticed the ecu isn't the same as the Bentley publishers, my Bentley matches your diagram, my pin 39 in the ecu runs to my tps through the blue plenum chamber connector, which I cut lol I can fix it once I get my pin tools but quick question, when running that cruise control wire from your pin 39 can I just use any wire from the ecu that had to do with the auto trans? Seeing how none of those will be used anymore, I don't wanna hurt my ecu but want the cruise control, idk how an ecu work totally when it comes to pins and if a certain pin puts out more power than another
@@ianmoberg374 yes you can use any of the pins that formerly went to the TCU since none of them are functional now. Just remember to move the ECU end to the correct pin lol. Glad to hear you found an accurate diagram!
I'm gunna take that ecu pin amd run it as u do with the 39 wire in the ecu, over to pin 4 of the white connector and to the cruise control tool switch and my wiring will be done, I just gotta figure out how to work the male connector side
I'm working on this area on my 2nd beetle and I notice that you retained the vertical body line but your door does not stick way out like mine did. I like that look but the only way I could have achieved it would have been to shim behind the surround panel to push it out. Is that what you did there to bring it out or is there a difference in model years? Both of my builds are 07's and the door sticks way out and looks weird. Because of that, I filled that area to make it flush. Lots of extra work.
I can't remember what video talks about that. But the answer is yes, I often put a spacer on the B-piller (panel bond) before mounting the rear window surround. I usually cut it out of the window fall off. That seems to work nicely. Sometimes the rear window surround is a little tight though when fitting it. Just depends on the kit. I also did one on the outside. Bonded a piece of fiberglass onto the outside of the rear window surround which is much the same as laying a couple layers of glass on there as you did. I challenge I found of putting the spacer on the outside is that the upper rear corner can come out weird and it takes a lot of sanding to get it looking good. When I do a single piece of fiberglass from the rear window cut out, it still ends up being about a 3/32-1/8 inch difference behind the rear of the door and the front edge of the window surround. But putting a thicker spacer in makes it really tough to get the rear window surround on and laying correctly. So I accept the 3/32-1/8 difference.
Thank you for posting this series, it's so in depth, I'm having trouble finding the wiring diagram in my Bentley for 09a to 02j for the bew but I'll really get into it this weekend, I'm a starter yt mechanic, I'm confident but haven done this before, ur bids make it so much easier
Im so glad I found these vidoes because it made my swap a lot easier to accomplish. I took the car out for a drive tonight after getting it all the way back together and it worked as if it has always had a manual transmission.....thank you for sharing your knowledge
I just did the swap on a 2000 Beetle Alh. Excellent job talking through all of the wiring for this swap. The car drives, cruise control works, however, my tach does not. Do you have any direction to point me into or know what i may have done wrong?
Thats a new one to me. Not sure what you got going on. If you have a manual, look at the wiring diagram to trace the tach wiring. Sorry to hear of your issue
Can I have a link to the 09a to 02j swap? I found the second and third video of yours for that but can't find the first video :( and do u happen to have vids for the bew engine?
Unfortunately no. The dimensions of the 12 and up beetle don’t work for a Ute. It looks pretty silly. The door is much longer and the seats are moved back a bit. This makes for a long cab and a stubby little bed. It is unfortunate as I really like the newer MK5 based beetles
@@andrewhesterman2007 thank you very much for getting back to me. I like that kit so well, I am going to look for New Beetle. I do love mine, handle's and runs very nice.
2004 golf BEV I'm doing o1m to o2j swap and ran into some wiring problem . om my ecu pin 39 is taken , has red/white wire . what would be the solution? everything else i got all done
First thing I recommend is double checking your PIN numbers. It is easy to count the wrong direction or misread the little numbers. If you do indeed have a wire already in pin 39, then I’m not sure what is going on. All the gas engines from 2000 and newer utilize the same pin
I’m doing a 5speed O2J swap next week my question is the speed sensor do I have to do any modifications to it or just automatic plug just plugs back in to manual transmission?
Depends on the automatic you have. If you have an 09A, you have to follow the 09A tiptronic video series and wiring. If you have an 02M then follow this video wiring
Hi! Trying to do this on my 2015 Volkswagen EOS. My car is pushed start and the fob that I have the key is not cut. I am trying to trick it into thinking that the old key is the new key when I put it into the door. Would appreciate any input.
I get my keys from Cascade German www.cascadegerman.com/?s=key+fob&post_type=product&title=1&excerpt=1&content=0&categories=0&attributes=1&tags=1&sku=1&orderby=title-DESC&ixwps=1
shoot! I forgot about this video and went ahead and cut the sunroof rail along with the roof! Next time! Great video as usual. Oh, I should mention, I just got a 3D printer and most people are using PLA plastic for their printing. The problem with PLA is that it deforms at a relatively low temperature. A friend of mine printed an RC airplane and the wings drooped as it sat in the grass. I would make sure parts are printed with a higher temperature plastic such as ABS.
Hello Mr. Hestermann, I have a few questions about several pieces that I see in this video that you have added, but I did not receive in my Smyth Kit for my MK5 Jetta. Between 2:27 and 2:34 in your video, it shows you riviting some kind of plate on the outside of the left side bed panel. My kit did not have this piece in it. Is this something extra that you added? Also, between 6:47 and 7:41 in this video, it shows you riviting an aluminum plate under the left bed side panel and then bolting that same piece of aluminum to the B-Pillar brace. I didn't get that piece of aluminum in my MK5 kit. Is this something extra that you have added? Also at 7:35 in the video it shows another panel rivited to the right side bed panel above the gas filler neck cup. Is this another extra piece that you added? I didn't get one in my kit. Also, behind both wheel wells, there is a straight channel brace rivited between the side bed panels and the outer edge of the body floor pan. Once again, is this an extra brace that you added? I didn't receive these two braces in my MK5 kit! I would really appreciate your assistance with these questions! Thank you.
Replied to you on email but for other viewers/readers, most of those are extra brackets I made and installed. The second one you mentioned is supposed to come with the kit, called the B pillar outer brace or also referred to as wheel well to b pillar brace
would you or anyone else in the comments know how to do this with only one key? I tried the method in the user manual (pop lock cap off, press unlock, [(within 1 min) manually unlock the door, close door behind you, stick the key in the ignition, and turn to AUX mode, turn off, get out and close the door] NOGO. Am I missing something? Does anyone know what protocol VW uses to COMM with the key fob (SECURITY+, SECURITY+ 2.0, etc? Full disclosure I tried hacking my VW by capturing the unlock signal and replaying it on my flipper0.
Take the key cylinder out by popping the rubber plug in the jam side of door and loosening the torx screw but not all the way slide out and use a long screw driver to turn the lock while top portion of key is In ignition
Just now got mine to where i can drive it. Its an '04 BEW wagon. I lose throttle at 5mph, either forward or reverse. It will rev easily when sitting still. No CEL or any engine or ABS codes. Do you have any direction for me before i go back and trace ny steps?
@hesty32 yes. And Immo delete. Im wondering if it could have something to do with the Immo delete. I have another ECM from the manual donor car, I may try to throw in there to see if there's a change.
I don’t think the immo defeat is related. The fact that you have no codes is stumping me. If you haven’t, you could try resetting by unhooking the battery. Kinda sounding like accelerator communication issues (fuel pedal).
@hesty32 I appreciate you taking the time to reply. I am in process of testing a couple things at the moment. The TPS itself isn't it as I've installed two other known-good AP's as a hail Mary attempt to isolate the problem. If i end up having to rewire or find my mistake in the swap I'll reply with what I found. I am done with it for the week as of now.
Slight update. I had a total of 3 AP's (accelerator pedals) floating around so swapped them in one at a time to no avail. I unplugged the VSS from the tranny and the car drives atms it should.. but with no speedo obviously. Everything else works and I will revisit the issue later cause I really like my cruise control but for the moment it's good enough.
Ah, then there is a communication issue. May be a wiring issue or possibly could be one of the modules. That would explain why the reprogramming doesn't work
I am gearing up to do a 09a to 02J swap and this series is probably the most valuable on the internet. Thank you sir!! One question though: As you swapped to 02m, I’m wondering if there are there any wiring differences between the 02M and 02j?
I found I needed to unplug the TCM from the harness otherwise the ecu was still searching for TCU and thus causing non-communication fault codes. I didn’t actually drive the car to test drivability but restarting with TCU unplugged didn’t cause any fault codes… just FYI for those wondering about this part. Cheers!
Great point! I usually remove the TCU and bag/tape the connector when I don’t do full wire harness surgery. If PRNDL still show up in your instrument cluster, the ECU and cluster are trying to communicate with the TCU and you will get errors/CELs. The TCU removed and ECU programmed to manual, you will still get a code for no communication with TCU but it won’t trigger a CEL. Thanks for highlighting this!
Hi, for audi a4 1.8t 20v 2005, replace for a manual transmission, i need to reflash the ECU or i can swap for manual with VCDS?? Greetings from Brazil.
1st, thanks a lot for the videos and your great work I have a Golf Mk4 2001 / 1.8T with 09A 5-speed automatic transmission (tiptronic) and Golf MK5 steering wheel with shifting paddles and no multifunction. Any cheap idea to connect the MK5 steering wheel paddles to the gearbox so that I can use the manual gear with the steering wheel paddles ?? I tried a lot to get wirings from the paddles to the manual harness but it always failed. Thanks all for your support.
Sorry I haven’t got an answer for you there. I’ve heard of folks making it work but don’t know it myself. Might be able to find some info on VW Vortex forum
This series of videos is really awesome. I have a question about where you were able to find that transmission. I have the exact same setup for the car and transmission but am having trouble finding a 6spd? Where should I order from?
I got a donor car. Swapped in all the actual components, that was easy enough. Will be wiring today. Thanks for taking the time to make these videos. I'm gonna try to use the donor cars underhood to PCM harness to cover that part. Ill check back later to either report good news or to look for where I went wrong.
the wiring in the engine bay will already be accomplished by changing the engine harness. You will still have to do some wiring in the car and in the plenum chamber to make the new engine harness have full continuity
Question for anyone willing to assist. Just completed my 09A to 02J swap including wiring for VSS, reverse lights and speed signal along with the necessary reconfiguration of the starter relay from 9-pin to 4-wire manual configuration using a #54 relay. I go to start the car and nothing happens- no starter noise or solenoid click / action. -Battery positive is providing 12V to starter stud, reverse lights work correctly, clutch safety switch has continuity when depressed. Negative battery cable attached to trans bell housing bolt/stud. All lights accessories work and no immobilizer issue. I was initially leaning toward the clutch safety switch wiring being the issue but my question is about the park / neutral safety cable on the 09A set-up which is connected from the shift box to the starter mechanism…. I disconnected that cable from the shifter end but left it in place. And thus still connected to the starter mechanism area… could this hinder starting if it’s in a specific position still on the starter / mechanism? Otherwise I’m going to scan and go over all the wiring again. Thanks!
the starter interlock cable is a mechanical set up. If I recall correctly, it is spring load in the ignition to the OFF position. Meaning if it is unhooked at the shifter, it should spring into the correct position to allow the car to start. But that should be with the cable pushed into the housing at the shifter end. So you can double check at the shifter end that the cable is pushed into the housing and not hung up on something pulling it out. I would suspect the clutch safety switch too. You can test it and you can bypass it to see if that is the issue. If you join the two leads of the safety switch (with a wire or a fuse), that should provide ground to the new 53 relay and allow the relay to work. You can check that pin 4 is ground when the clutch is pushed in to verify. Another test you can do here is put a voltmeter on pin 8 (of the 53 relay) to make sure 12v is present when the ignition is turned to start and the clutch is depressed.
@@hestermannmotorwerks thanks for your reply. I decided to go over everything again today and I finally decided to double-check the plenum connectors and I discovered the brown T10 connector wasn’t fully seated thus not making connection. Plugged it in and voila she started right up! All my wiring was in fact correct 👍🏻 Thanks again for your great videos- they helped a ton!!!
