I have a ninja v that I use on every shoot and I hate it. It's ridiculously, RIDICULOUSLY heavy (thanks for making it out of metal atomos, because we really needed that, and thanks for making the atomox SSD's out of metal too, totally necessary). Playback is also very stupid. If I want to review my 60 fps footage at 40% speed, I can't. I have to play it back at 50%. Pretty frigging stupid when most professional edits on done on a 24 fps timeline. I also can't just tap a button and play it back at 50%, no, I have to drag my finger on a slider and try to make the slider stop at 50%. Because atomos thought "lets not make it easy by tapping a button, let's make it a frustrating game for them."
I use the Sabrent Thunderbolt 4 KVM Switch. It's the only one I've found that has both Thunderbolt 4 inputs and Thunderbolt 4 outputs to run to my Apple Studio Display. I use it for switching back and forth between my work PC laptop and my MacBook. A bit of a time delay for the switching but other than that it works great!
**Unfair Billing Practices by Spectrum** I recently encountered a frustrating experience with Spectrum’s billing practices that I believe many customers should be aware of. My previous billing cycle ended on June 26th, and I canceled my service on June 28th, just two days into the new cycle. Despite this, Spectrum has charged me for the entire month, billing me through to July 26th. When I called to cancel the service, I was not informed that I would be charged for the full billing cycle. Spectrum claims this is part of their billing policy, which is stated somewhere in the service agreement. However, expecting customers to notice such policies buried in fine print is unreasonable and unfair. Customers deserve clear and transparent communication regarding billing practices before committing to a service. It's disappointing to see a company prioritize profits over fair treatment of its customers. I hope Spectrum reconsiders this policy and starts treating customers with the respect they deserve. Has anyone else experienced this issue?
Hi jared I have canon R7 and I want a lens for aroom. My room is tight .It is 4×4 meter ....can you recommend me alens that suits a tight room and a board ....I am ateacher ....I want the same thing in the channel " learn English with Emma" please, see the channel of her and recommend me alens
I have an R7 and I'm trying to decide whether to buy an RF 24-105. I have the EF 24-105 but it is the first iteration. I think they improved it a lot in the second model. How do you think the EF 24-105 version 1 compares to the RF lens? All the videos I've found assume you have an EF version 2. Thanks in advance!
I have the RF version and it is sharper than the EF version 1 I used to have. I can't say compared to version 2, but compared to version one it is a leap. Here are two vids I talk about it ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-O_uwTj_4Igg.html and ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-qZOwoWmCL_k.html
I must say, I have an R7 and a metabones speedbooster which I tested and it was sharper than viltrox on the edge to edge. But A full frame camera like R6 Mk2 still does take better images after noise cleaning with a wide open fast lens in comparison to R7 + speed booster + the same wide open fast lens. Why? Because it can handle ISO better than 2 times. That's the unfortunate reality. And there's a physical reason for it. The pixel density of the R7 is 3.46 times higher than the R6 or R6 mk2. I've tested the mk2 vs r7 + the speed booster. You've got a 1.6 crop factor*1.6 the square of it*(32.5/24)the megapixels formula to result in better iso handling. So If you put in a .71 adapter there and the square of it, you still get 1.74 times better iso in the 24mp full frame body without the speed booster. That's a reality. Full frame is still better for low light. And yes I tested it. The speed booster with the cropped camera will have a brighter exposure however the iso handling on the full frame can not be match with this trickery. You can take much cleaner dark images by just boosting iso and the cleanup with the AI etc will still end up sharper. Do I like the speed booster + crop body combo? Yes I like it very much. I love the reach without the speed booster on daylight. However yet it's still your lens's entrance pupil diameter vs how much of the light passes thru your lens and how much of that light can your sensor's pixels capture on the same generation of bodies using the same software. That formula doesn't fail. If your pixel density is high and it's the same type of pixel sensor and the same software, the more pixel density you have, the worse light handling you'll have.
All my other L series RF glass locks the IS element when off or disengaged from the camera body so I found it odd my 70-200 f4 RF flaps around all loose and cheap inside.
Instead of having both FF and aps-c, i have R7 with speedbooster and normal ef/rf-adapter. Both are great with ef-lenses (like ef16-35Lis2 and ef50/1.2L). This has made my 6Dmk2 obsolete. Only rf-lenses i have are rf-s10-18 and rf100-500L. Both for wild life. The latter is a stunning beast.
My 70-200mm F/4 does that. There is a floating element. Probably the Image stabilization. The new RF 35mm F/1.4 does the same thing. I received my copy today.
@@JaredHoyman First impressions are it’s small, light and compact. For some reason it feels “heavier” even those it weights about the same as my 14-35mm F/4 L. Maybe it’s the VCM that moves around a lot when the lens is powered off. I haven’t done a real world test yet, but the autofocus is blazing fast and a joy to use so far. It feels good in the hands and feels robust. I thought the front element was going to be much bigger but it’s almost identical to the RF 35mm F/1.8.
I use sigma/tamron primes on my R5 and no need to update but I'm happy I sold my tamron 70-200 2.8g2 and bought the RF 70-200 2.8. images look the same quality wise but the reduction in size and weight means I carry the lens more and not leave it at home so often like I did the tamron.
I also went from a T2i to a 6D. I now use a 5D Mk4 professionally and i bought the R7 for a travel camera, because it's much lighter. I really like it! It's especially good for landscape but the eye tracking is excellent. On a recent trip to England, I used it 90% of the time, despite bringing the big Mk4.
I have an R6 markii and I am using the rf. 100-500 mostly for sports and nature. I was looking for a versatile zoom lens and I’ve been trying the ef 17-40 f4 using the adapter but I’ve just bought the rf 24-105 f4 and I hope is the correct alternative.
Yeah that is the IS (Image Stabiliser) element. During normal operation IS off the element movement is locked by the motors (actuators more precisely). When IS is enabled at 70mm the physical movement of the stabiliser element is not that drastic but at 200mm that element is going to be bazerking allarround in there when handheld. Ypud have to use a faster camera to take a video of that tho
No, it would not be concerning the internal lens shakes around in order to compensate for shakes when you take pictures or record video when you have a camera turned off there’s no electrical input so it’s just bouncing around against the magnets. That is how it’s designed.
@@kanari- all my other RF L lenses lock the IS when the camera is off or it’s disengaged from the body; so this one has stumped me. It still shoots and performs well but there something about knowing it’s moving around bothers me.
Excellent as usual. Thank you. Which would you suggest the Neewer or Meike. I have moved EOS R mirrorless just yesterday. Your videos provide a lot of info and I wanted to get your opinion on the two adapters. Thanks
Both companies have produced excellent quality products over the years. As for the adapter my experience has been with the Meike. If you are looking for just a ef to RF with not control ring option or ND filter option I would just pay the $99 and get the canon version. The ND is pretty reasonable too here amzn.to/3L607H8
The element in the lens is moving/wobbling when the camera is off. All my other image stabilized RF lenses lock the IS when the camera is turned off or disengaged from the camera body not allowing any wobble.
@JaredHoyman There are two IS systems. One in the lens and the one in the camera. It's normal for this lens and the F2.8 to move around when it isn't attached to the camera.
It’s weird. When the camera is on whether stabilization is on or off it will lock. When the camera is off the image stabilization wobbles. My other IS lenses lock when it’s off.
Excellent. Thank you for this video. I am moving EOS R mirrorless and your video is an excellent help to rethink not selling the EF lenses. Did you create the R7 with speed boost.? Would love to watch it too.
Would the 24-105 f4 be the better option for a student/hobbyist than the 24-70 with the 70-200? I know that the 15-35, 24-70 & 70-200 are the "F2.8. Trinity", what constitutes the "F4 Trinity"? I hate the thought of having to invest over $6000 into lenses that whent there are more rational options for my situation...
For a hobbyist I would highly recommend the F4 Trio. I use the 14-35 Professionally and Love the 24-105. I actually don't shoot that much with the 24-70 2.8 rf.
Excellent review Jared…. f4 is the way to go for me, don’t really need the f2.8 as it’s heavy and expensive. This is a perfect lens. One question Jared, do I give away my EF 24-70 f4 for this one ? I also have a 70-200 f4
Congrats on 10k and the inbound RODE! That's awesome, well deserved, and a big milestone. I've been using the Rodecaster Duo for the better part of the year for my vids and really liking that. Would be interested to see how the iPad is working for ya, assuming it's working well enough in a photo workflow. #rodewirelesspro
Thank you, Dan! The iPad m4 Pro has seriously amazed me. I’m not a tablet person but I have found myself using this everyday since I bought it. The oled is so good that it feels like you can reach in and grab the graphics right out of it. I’ve been trying it out with my thumbnail work flow along with the Apple Pencil pro and it may work itself well into the process going forward. I played around with it in Lightroom and photoshop and it performs pretty well. Does the rodecaster duo free up space on your desk? That would be the reason why I would choose that over the rodecaster pro 2.
@@JaredHoyman I'm not really either. I've only ever had two tablets, most recently the mini 2. I think that form factor probably complements the MBP best for my use, but I am always curious as to how they're getting better for photo editing. Haha for me the Duo takes space because I was coming from a scarlett solo.. but much nicer. I still have a lot to learn with it but couldn't see myself ever using 4 xlrs.
I bought mine used and seems like new. I haven fully taken it out to get every bit of testing done, but a few shots could reveal an issue. I may have to return it as many shots are looking soft on my R6-II. I'm going to do some comparisons against my 70-200 f/4 and see exactly what's going on. I'm hoping I don't have to return it, but the few shots I took are not even close to being sharp. I'm pretty disappointed with it so far to be honest. I still want this lens, but maybe not the copy I have.
@@JaredHoymanI got the R5C in 2022 and the C70 last year. 99% of the time, I reach for the C70 without hesitation. The C70 is really an “ARRI Alexa” in a small compact formfactor. FWIW, I was in Burbank for the C400 launch earlier this month. Canon has made from great innovations there. That being said….I’m still in love with the C70; more DR, more compact….more “affordable”. The R5C has become my B-cam.
@@aregal I’m deciding between the 2 and you may have sold me on the c70. I like the idea of clog2 and internal nd filters along with the mini xlr’s. The price on refurbished has come down quite a bit.
@@JaredHoyman I made a “year with the C70” review video. I have the Mid49Cage with the Mid49 adapter. It makes it a breeze when connecting XLRs and when I need to fly it on a RoninS2. It’s a solid cage and deceivingly looks bulky but all the “bulk” is in the right places.
I've been waiting a long time for a wide angle prime lens for canon L series. So I'm going to buy an RF 35 F1.4, but after understand its real wide angle I realized that it gives too small difference with my current RF 50 F1.2L lens. I definitely like the RF 50 F1.2L for everything but its weight is not convenient for hiking. So always wanted a good fast lens at wide angle. Last year I bought the RF 24 F1.8 but in fact this lens was a compromise, it has very strong geometric distortion on edges and the camera profile stretches the corners a lot which makes many shots look very cheap. Now I want to sell this lens, it is lightweight comfortable IS lens with good aperture but with very mediocre picture and colors. I had already pre-ordered the RF 35 F1.4L VCM and was already thinking of buying it, but the thought that the 35 would be little different from the RF 50 F1.2L made it feel like a worthless purchase. I started researching and came across this lens RF 14-35 F4L IS USM and I was really interested in it as it weighs only 540 grams which is great for hiking and traveling as the RF 35 F1.4L VCM also weighs 555 grams but is not as versatile as the RF 14-35 F4L IS USM. Now I'm back to wondering if it makes sense to go for the RF 15-35 F2.8L IS USM as it is noticeably more expensive and heavier, the lens is definitely outstanding but is the one stop aperture justified in this case as I will have a significantly higher system weight.
I own both these lenses and I always go back and fourth to which one makes the most sense and since I can't decide I just kept both ;). My 15-35 2.8 RF actually lives on my Canon R7 for video. My 14-35 f4 is my work horse for real estate photography and video walk throughs. If shallow depth of field on wide angle is not important to you I would save the money and go with the 14-35 f4 RF. You get slightly wider, which does make a difference and it's light for walking and gimbal work. Refurbished is actually a good deal. amzn.to/3VQXU7F
