I mean, it's cool, but for the same price and less work you can get an anvil that is heavier, bigger, harder, and doesn't have a void between the face and the body. But hey, making that kind of stuff is always amazing.
درود دمت گرم من دارم یه پرس میسازم یه قیچی میلگرد بر هیدرولیک را دارم تبدیل به پرس میکنم جک من 4/5سانت پیستون داخلی و10سانت قطر و 65سانت طول داره یعنی پرس 12تنی میشه ازش ساخت با یه موتوره 2/5اسب ایا میتونم
I need to do this so bad. I can find log splitters, both without a motor and even straight up electric log splitters. I just can’t handle the building and welding. I’ve got zero welding skill and even less welders… I live with some lower spine injuries that dictate my life. If I’m lucky I can spend 30 minutes at the forge in a week. And that’s me overdoing it to get my wife’s Christmas gift finished. A press would likely increase that by 300-400% at the absolute very least. I just don’t have spare income to forage for a cheap welder, a log splitter, the motor and all the other metal needed. Best of luck with yours.
I have a problem that I don't know how to solve. I use a coal forge and because of this I can’t properly monitor the temperature of the workpiece, because it is in the coals. When I want to do forge welding, my workpiece either melts into liquid metal or I don’t heat it enough and it oxidizes.
I've got some coil spring from a railroad engine about the same thickness or a bit larger diameter, I prefer to square it before punching the eye so it doesn't roll when the press is punching the hole.🤥
Wow nice work. Making a steak anvil at the moment, I have a couple of anvils but not very flat or square edge anymore. Made heaps of cool hardy tools though work ausome
Love your style! To make it glow blue try a light coat of white model paint, just dry brush it on and then add some blue florescent paint, Miniature paint from Vallejo is my go to florescent, it will create an intense bright blue that also glows under black light. Probably a bad idea on this beauty but its an idea!
Very impressive young man, I watched all 4 videos and I like the way you troubleshoot. It’s a rare quality in youngsters these days. Thank you for sharing, great, genuine format and production. Texas
Hey Bennett, hope you're doing well! I've been watching since the bloomery furnace livestreams (all 3 days lol), and enjoy your content! hope to see you finish up these knives, keep forging on my friend!
Spray the ceramic wool with a rigidizer next time.. usually comes in a spray bottle, a blue colored liquid. You soak the ceramic wool, the blue dye in the liquid helps to determine how much you have covered. A good dousing of that, then let it stand for a while. After it has stood for a while and permeated the wool. Use a torch, a tiger torch works well, but others I'm sure will do the job. Use a small flame. Then the wool will be nice and hard (or rigid as th3 name implies). No loose fibers. Then spread on the refractory cement
One more little tip if you're interested. When setting up and fitting your pieces together. Fit them corner to corner. It leaves a perfect corner joint for downhand welding on that gauge material. It will create a nice strong weld between both piece of material, and put you in a position to be able to use either a flapper disc or a sanding disc to round your corners nice and smooth without any loss to the integrity of the build. Just nice clean, finished corner joints.
For forming your roof portion. If you had a couple of pieces of pipe, you could set them up next to one another, as close or as far apart as deemed fit. Then place your sheet metal on top of the pipe and strike down, allowing you to round them slightly better. Or just lay it across a larger piece of pipe, with a bigger diameter and form the roof around that. Don't get me wrong, i am not critiquing your build in the slightest. You did a fantastic job, truly. I have been welding and fabricating for 20+ years now, and I still get really I spread when seeing guys like you get out there and create something amazing from an idea. Keep up the great work, and keep posting. I've been tempted to create videos on RU-vid for some time, just unsure where to start. Official "new" subscriber. 👍
That was interesting to whatch and I actually learned a lot. You were committed to it and I understand completely, I’m the same way when I start a project. Still turned out pretty good. 👍
Thanks! I’d love to do another one, I think getting the hollow grind just a smidge thinner would really improve the quality of the shave. Though I’ve been told my technique was also very bad for the actual shaving!
I refined it as much as I could, most ended up breaking into bits too small that I’m saving for a second smelt in a better shaped furnace. I did keep two larger pieces just as mementos of the first attempt.
@@BennettTheSmith Did it turn into wrought iron or steel I was wondering if it was possible to turn ordinary scrap metal into wrought iron since technically you should start with pig iron in that case? Or did the blooms not consolidate properly and they were too fragile?
@@Mechanicus_Instrumentum I suppose it’s possible to end up with wrought iron, but it would likely be more efficient to do that as a secondary process, after refining and homogenizing the bloom. I ended up with a piece of steel with many distinct layers, probably a medium to low carbon steel overall. It might be possible to turn scrap mild steel into wrought, but it would probably cost more in time and effort than sourcing antique wagon wheels and other existing wrought iron.
Yep. For the thickness of the metal it was fine to use water (plus no way I had that much oil). The crack was mainly due to the super thick face pulling against the relatively thin webbing. Should have brought it out and tempered the web right away. But the crack was fixable and the face is nice and hard!
