An accomplished F-Open shooter and coach teaches the art and science of long-range F-class shooting. Product reviews, competitive psychology, tips and techniques, and match breakdowns. This channel is about making you more competitive in long range competition. Join me for some fun and exciting content.
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3 hours in the tumbler 😳 ….I accidentally left mine in overnight and that was the end of my primer pockets - had to throw them all out - so its harsh way to clean if left in too long - im now switching to ultrasonic cleaning which can clean better in 10 minutes and not get bashed around
Keith, did I hear you right, .015 into the lands with a VLD ?? How do you push any bullet into the lands? Even with maximum interference neck to bullet , won't my bullet push deaper into the case as I close the bolt. Please help me to understand your statement. Thanks.
I use Saturn funnels and still tap them to ensure all the kernels flakes or balls go into the case. Good point Keith. I remember in the beginning of hand loading for me. When done I found powder kernels in my 50 piece case tray and wondered how. Zero missing kernels now.
Mean point of impact standard deviation is equal to the true dispersion divided by the square root of the number of shots. Since dispersion is the result of random processes, there’s nothing you can do to make the mean point of impact “more stable” except make the groups smaller..
Cheap old(like me) Lee plastic funnel has that step inside as well. Works great. I just swipe a dryer sheet on all surfaces along with my other tools, no problem.
Cases that have sharp shoulder angles and short necks can run into an issue where the bottom of the funnel hits the shoulder before the taper hits the mouth. That is the only situation where I have experienced leakage between funnel and case. Coincidentally,. that is the exact situation with the .284 Winchester, which is the caliber that Kieth uses for F class. None of the calibers that I load for have this problem. I ran into it loading for a friend's 7mm WSM. I will say that the funnels that he recommends are very good, having used one when helping a friend load for an off continent hunt.
I'm on my 3rd RCBS green plastic funnel, they do wear out making 22 cal a challenge. Question for you, if you could expand upon your statement of case dwell time in the sizing die? Does it reduce "memory " or spring back of brass?
Holy smokes! For the first (and probably last) time I am ahead of you - been using those funnels for at least 15 years. They are a “better mousetrap” IMHO.
I have been using Satern funnels for years. Great powder funnel. Definitely helped me get the powder into the brass over the generic one size fits all powder funnels.
I like Satern funnels a lot. Deb sent me some at one time. I used them for years. After a while, the aluminum will start to shift from the bushing at the bottom and you can get kernels that fall down in there. It got bad on mine with ball powders. The gap will grow over time. Not a deal breaker, something to be aware of. They are inexpensive enough it isn’t a problem to replace them.
Some people go out to test their ladders, expecting to find that accuracy node and stack shots one on top of another, but aren't aware of their ineptitude with shooting. No proper rifle rest, no good spot weld, and absolutely atrocious form all around. They shoot worse than 3 MOA with every step in their ladder test and begin to rationalize their miserable performance, falling back on a sheep's assessment of accuracy, where if you can hit a paper plate at 100 yards, that's good enough to blast Bambi. Utterly inferior mindsets go out to ranges and end up with embarrassing results. But with a little education and work, these people may eventually shoot barely acceptable 2" groups for hunting purposes out to no more than 300 yards, only if their rifle is well-rested and they are dead calm, but it's doubtful that they will achieve calmness when they are in the throes of an adrenaline rush. Buck fever will cause them to see trophy deer amid the trees, causing catastrophic hunting accidents when those deer they thought they spotted turn out to be fellow hunters. Hilarity ensues, gunfights break out, and the competent among the shooting crowd will shake their heads, feeling pity for fools.
My spring was coiled up like a drunk snake. My bolt works so much smoother after replacing it with a Wolff. I'm very excited to see if it fixed my flyers.
Keith, it was a marketing video on selling his rice. He proved in his own video that a nylon brush is all you need. It was more consistent than a bronze brush or rice. This was his results. This is the guy i argued with on why you shouldn't use a broze brush down the bore. He didn't seem to grasp the concept of fire cracking in that a bronze brush wipes away the micro burrs on the edges of the fire cracking making them bigger. What do you think Keith do you use a bronze brush too? BTW...doesn’t everyone anneal first?
Removing most/all of the inside neck carbon every time, and then adding dry lube (like NeoLube) before seating seems like a great way to control that variable. Did Greg test that?
Just found your channel. I'm a wannabe; I've done some machining so all this makes perfect sense to me. Thanks very much for your effort. I'm going to share this around; I agree with others-- everyone who uses a scope needs to see this. Two thumbs way up!
In my experience, using an expander ball stretches-out and reduces the shoulder bump that I painstakenly measured so carefully in the full-length sizing operation. The mandrel process does not change the headspace measurement for me. Has anyone else experienced this?
For me its wash , dry , anneal , lube with lanolin , decap , resize , mandrel , wash case lube off , dry , and 3 way trim with henderson ... about to try switching to dry tumbling cause double wash and dry is annoying
Why is everyone still using commercial case lubes??!! I use regular coconut oil (looks like shortening). A very slight amount is needed and it wipes off easily (heat above 80 F to make it even easier!) The residual oil that gets wiped off also cleans up any residual tumbling media dust and oxidation from the cases. Try coconut oil for your case lube and you will never go back to the sticky, stinky, messy, & expensive commercial lubes!
I like you didn't know what type you were shooting. That has always bothered me on other videos. Great job testing! These primer get smacked pretty hard from the firing pin. Id be curious to see if a firing pin could seat an unloaded primer.
Thanks for the video. Question please, I am very new to reloading, but everything I have seen up until your video, emphasized cleaning before sizing to protect your dies from becoming scratched and such from carbon and grit on your spent brass. I hand catch all of mine, so they never hit the ground. I was thinking that maybe as a professional shooter, maybe replacing dies often isn’t a big concern. The question is, for little shooters like me who don’t want to damage my dies, would you still recommend all the steps you suggest in this video before cleaning?
That is a great question. The first reaction I have is that I've been sizing without pre-cleaning for over a decade and 10's of thousands of rounds. None of my dies are damaged, and I haven't had to replace any. I buy commercial dies like RCBS, Redding, Forster, etc. I wonder why people think sizing brass with carbon or dirt on it ruins dies? Is there a chance that the whole thing is a myth? As for recommendations, I'll stick to the advice I gave in the video - Figure out what works for you and stick with it. I was just showing how simple it can be.
@@johnplummer1619 what did I miss? Video is about the order in which you do things. You don't run dirty, gritty, grimy brass into a die that has finer tolerances than wheel bearings. Unless you like ruining dies.
