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I didn’t knew that Leica didn’t really change this technique since the M ones after WW2. The Fuji solution to this problem is much more elegant, more intelligent… and more 2024….😮
That is the most worthwhile quarter of an hour's tutorial video I have watched for a long time. All of it was useful but for me the back and forth movement to nail fine focus is going to make a big difference to the rangefinder experience for me. I must admit I have been struggling a bit but you have inspired me to go out again and use all of these techniques with more confidence. Great video, thank you for posting.
Great all-in-one lesson David! I've been using the M beginning with the M9 and now the M10, for me, I think the most valuable tip you've offered that was the greatest benefit to me was the rocking focus. Brilliant! I was guilty of trying to "fine-tune" the focus using the finger tab, but now I know better! I'll buy you a coffee the next time you're in Vietnam! Thank you David! As Josh said to you when reviewing my gear in the Show Us Your Kit episode last year, no, I do not have a farm! Hahaha! Cheers, Scott
A nice summary indeed! The other day, I realized that the minimum focus distance of 0.7 m is a great distance for taking selfie, so it's another way how to look at it :)
You could probably get away with f/16 on film. On high resolution digital sensors, as the pixels get smaller and smaller, you can't stop down as much without suffering from diffraction.
Thanks David . You are a great pedagog. When the subject is moving, and to get the perfect focus is not so easy , I close a bit the aperture to get a little more depth of field and have a kind of automatic correction of the lack of perfect focusing with the range finder. It is "zone focusing" but in a particular situation.
There's a much, much better way to focus using Leica lenses. As long as they don't contain moving elements, I just mount them on the TZM-02 on my Z8 and press the shutter button. Focus is done.
Nothing wrong with live view. I often use my M11 with the EVF. But even then, the same tips on rangefinder focus like estimating distance, focus tab position, pre-focusing, and leaning in/out also speed up focus using live view.
This video is so good it should be a charged lesson. Just got my Leica M and been practicing the last 8 hours and you've made my life so much easier. THANK YOU.
Excellent and I want to add one more item; when focussing, always start from one end - preferably from infinity. It avoids the back and forth of turning the ring.
Say the distance to yourself in your head. That keeps the distance estimation separate from the tab position, which varies lens to lens and makes it easier to learn and remember. Best video on this subject I've ever seen. Way to go David.
These are great advice. I had to learn these tips the hard way through lots of trial and many errors over many decades. You did it in 17 minutes. Well done.
Very kind of you. I'm in the same boat. Been learning rangefinder photography for over 20 years and had to do it by trial and error. Hopefully, this will help those just discovering the Leica M to shortcut the process a little bit.
Such a great video. The arms-length=0.7m point is 🤯 and pre-focusing using estimated distance is a great tip. I put both of these tips to use today after watching the video and already feel faster at focusing. Thanks for the great content as always
I'll give you the number 1 tip for best way to manual focusing Leica M. If you are using Glasses, get a Leica Correction Lens. Go to a Leica store and try what works best for you. Or, you just get rid of the M and get a Q :) I never looked back after I switched to Q. Great image quality with the 28mm Summilux plus the Macro capability.
Definitely a good tip on the diopter. Just remember that the M viewfinder has a projected distance of 2m / 6ft so go to your optometrist and get a correction value for that distance. Then subtract the standard built-in -0.5 correction to determine which diopter you need. And hey, the Q is awesome, especially if you like the 28mm focal length. It can truly be a one camera solution.
@@RedDotForumWhenever I get a new spectacle prescription, I take that along to my Leica dealer and they ensure I have the correct correction lens. Thankfully I only have to buy a new one every 2-4 years.
David, thank you for this tutorial. Hope to see one on improving composition. Btw, is there a big jump in going from M10 to M11P? Would you sell your M9P plus M10 for M11P if u were thinking of upgrading to M11P?
Composition is big topic! Will give that some thought. Yes, there is a big jump from the M10 to M11-P. I'd suggest you check out my full M11 review, where I run down every improvement from the M10 to the M11: rdf.to/M11-Review As to your specific question, yes, I'd definitely make that trade. I know the M9-P has a cult following right now, but the M11-P is just a superior camera in every possible way, both to the M9-P and the M10. From the 15+ stops of dynamic range to the insane resolution and vastly better low light performance to the gorgeous EVF, live view metering and in-camera USB charging, the M11 is the way to go.
A nice, comprehensive set of helpful hints. Maybe next time add a short view of the lens barrel with the distance scale explained? And how about giving distances in meters and feet for those of us who use the latter? Thanks for your post!
Yeah, during editing, I had wished that I covered the depth of field scale a little more. Hopefully, the visual explanation of hyperfocal and zone focusing still made sense. As to the feet/meters, I did use both several times, maybe not every time talking about distance.
