Extended Crank. I Thought It May Be Fuel Pressure, but now I know it's not. 

i lent my old ford adapter to someone, i forgot who i lent it to.getting old sucks, but beats dying young.

I just had the fuel pump replaced in my 2014 Silverado. It seemed to be taking longer to fire up, and then I began smelling fuel whenever I got out. When I finally saw gas dripping from the gas tank, I knew it was time for the shop. Thank you, GM, for plastic fuel pumps.

You ever see "the Den of tools" he does review of tools. Always talking about H.F. and their stuff. I see him every week, along with you. Only been a month of him, but does honestly good talking fella. Have a great weekend 😎☮️✌️

If you cycle the key to on once or twice it will pressurize the fuel system. If that influences the crank time I would pursue fuel issue. Michael

Thanks for the tip. Nice video.

That kit is ok. You have to take all the scharder valves out of the pieces so they work good. It will hold pressure and ya think its holding pressure and its not

For all the bally hoo I hear about how cheap (in terms of quality) the tools are a Harbor Freight, I must confess I like what they offer. I have no need for more hand tools, but every once in a while I need (want) something in the way of a power tool (electric or penumatic) that I do not yet have. Or a tester I need. Re: the Maddox fuel pressure tester you have, I think you made a good decision. I needed an oil pressure tester for an AOD I was swapping into our 1973 Mach 1 Mustang. I opted to get the slightly more costly Pittsburgh brand oil pressure gauge. Once the swap was done I figured I would no longer need the oil pressure gauge and gave it to one of the guys who helped install the AOD in the Mach 1 (which turned out great, by the way). Later on I decided I wanted to increase the Throttle Valve pressure a little to raisee the 1-2, 2-3, and 3-4 upshift road speed ranges. Well, that requires an oil pr4essure gauge. So I went back to Harbor Freight, and this time got the Maddox unit, because like yourself I figured I would enot be using it very often. Now, do not get me wrog - the Pittsbirgh unit is a nice device, and it has a pressure release button (aka bleed off) so I can see the maximum pressure attained despite the then current pressure - handy to have. But, the Maddox kit came with two gauges, with different pressure ranges on each (one for higher pressures, one for lower pressures with more distance between the incremental markers). Both have a nice array of tubing adapters. The Maddox tester was only #29, $10 less than the Pittsburgh unit, and it connected and worked just as well as the Pittsburgh unit. t $39 one can't go wrong with the Pittsburgh tester. But, for $29 the Maddox tester does every bit as good a job as is needed. You have said nice things about Harbor Freight in past videos, and I am glad as I know it is not just me who feels they offer decent tools. Not everyone who works on cars is able or willing to buy Snap-On tools, as nice as they are. I purchased a huge set of Craftsman tools back in the mid-70s that helped me make an excellent living as an auto tech back then. And now retired I have been using them on my vintage pony cars for all kinds of maintenance, tinkering, and repair work. /back in the day I took a lot of crap off folks who had Snao-On tools, as opposed to my Craftsman tools. I never teased them about paying 3 to 4 (or more) times what I did for tools, and I coul d never see enough of a functional difference to warranty getting all Snap-On tools. Well, The Snap-On vs Craftsman debate rages on, but now the craftsman tools are no longer made in the USA like back in the day. So, one could say they are "cheaper" (quality) than the original Craftsman tools. And folks can say bad things about Krome, Husky, Pittsburgh, etc. tools vs Snap-On, Mac, OTC, etc. But, the reality is for many DIY, hobbyists, and retired folks the less costly tools will do just fine. If I needed to use my tools and power tools every day to make a living, perhaps I would choose differently. But then again, perhaps not. I am encouraged to see you selected a recent set of tools you purchased coming from Harbor Freight. You are "good advertising" for them, whether they are aware or not.

Always learn something from your videos. 👍

Looking forward! The cause? And harbor freight valve not releasing! Will stay tuned the final analysis,and Master Good wrench I feel that I'm behind your shoulder watching and learning,The Wrenching Experience by Kenny!Thank you! I'm 71 young Open minded!

Good afternoon Mr Kenny hope y'all are having a wonderful day

GM typically use a nominal 58psi. Two different systems - fixed pressure of 58 psi, and a vacuum referenced variable pressure. Fixed pressure has injection mapped in the ECU, variable pressure has fixed value for injection in ECU. From zero to operating pressure happens real fast as long as the pump is working. Most likely crank sensor - these can be temperature sensitive if failing. Is this an LS engine? If so crank sensor is at the back of the engine above/behind the starter motor. Could also be cam sensor - engine can run with failed cam sensor - but takes time to figure out where it is - meaning slow start up.

Awesome video

hah good fuel pressure kit they even have one for a 91 GMC 1500, that you hook up to the fuel lines when taking out the frame fuel filter , I did have elven pounds to run the TBI , changed the fuel filter all was good .

20 Years ago fuel pressure wasn't that common that's most likely why the price difference & that one you bought is more than likely chinesium.Cheers mate.

Hey Kenny, could you let us all know about the conclusion of the fuel pressure gauge and HF? THX much

OIL PRESSURE SENDING UNIT ON SOME VEHICLES CAN CAUSE SYMPTOMS LIKE.

Mine did this when the oil was needing to be changed. Just change oil if not vvt solenoid needs cleaned or replace

Gm vortec engines has to have 50 lb fuel pressure under 50 lb it won't start but if you get it started it will run on 48 lb all day until it's cold and you go to start it again!!!

I don't know why, but the Schrader valves don't work right in mine either... takes some rtinkering

How about if you remove the core vslve ?

a cam sensor will do that also

Lot of time it's a cam sensor that will cause a long start time.

I had a stuck fuel injector.cause a fuel pressure drop in one of my cars.!

If the one way Shrader valve in the tool notices a drop in pressure, it won't let pressures equalize across the valve. How can the gauge beyond the valve give accurate readings? Isn't that valve there to detect maximum pressure, much like a compression tester, so you don't have to watch the gauge to eyeball maximum?

Looks exactly like my garbage usgeneral kit. Hopefully this works for ya

Is the bleed valve not on backwards or something?? After you disconnected the fuel line should it not return to zero, unless there is a check valve in the gauge?

Yeah when you take it back they will usually just give you a new kit.

I can’t imagine what I paid for my snap on kit 1000 years ago.

once had the mechanical advance stuck in full advance.

hello Kenneth

not 100% sure Cam sensor? If the pcm/ecm cannot read the cam position it will crank up to 5 times then will read the crank sensor before the pcm/ecm throwing spark. Check for the reading with your scan tool and see what you have for readings on the cam sensor if possible.

It'll work the first time. Next time it won't work, like most all Horror Fright crap.

Shouldnt there be a code for an intermittent crank sensor circuit ?

Check for an rpm signal when cranking.

Your Launch doesn't read fuel pressure ?

That button bleeds off pressure when the car turns off

I think you just need to tinker with the kit a little. If not, I'm sure they will swap for another one, you're a good customer. One question answered, so back to the drawing board.

Need 30 mins. of show. There not long enough. Adopt dog people. BKA