Im this video I try to tell you what to look for while doing a simple oil change and problems that I have seen since this is mostly all I do is work on these Powerstrokes.
Ron, you keep helping me even though you’re not around these parts anymore. I’ll always appreciate what you did to help us all out with our struggles. Travel light. You did the world well and even in your absence you continue to help dummies like me.
Bummer to read the comments. WAY to young to be gone. My thoughts and prayers to this gentleman's Family. Great presentation. All the "Good ones" seem to depart way to soon. RIP my fellow 'Diesel Brother'.
Rip diesel tech Ron. Awesome guy who knew his stuff about these trucks. Helped me out on my oil change today on my 6.0. All the way from Canada. Very knowledgeable guy, great teacher.
The best diesel mechanic ive seen work and able to explain things and cover every detail of what to do and not to do. Was a true walking Diesel Encyclopedia R.I.P.
Ron, some very good information and well appreciated my friend. Since owning my truck, new in 2006, I've never changed my own oil....but that has changed as of my next oil change. I purchased the Rotella oil and the Motorcraft oil filter. Looking forward to doing my own work. Thank you again for taking the time out to help educate those of us ignorant on doing our own work on these diesels. Mine actually is a 2006 F-350 6.0L with bullet proof work done.
Wow awesome video... I was able to change my oil for the first time by myself and it came out perfect the details of this video is absolutely right on to the T. Thank you so much for your help I'll be watching all your videos
Great video! I just changed my 6.4L oil and found that the Ford shop changed my oil 700 miles ago...soot black oil now! when I pulled the oil found it dry as a bone with an aftermarket oversized disposable Wix cap! Thanks for the info or I'd never known.
Thank you so much for your video I have a 04 6.0 Ive owned it for about eight months . I only use moto craft fuel and oil filters. After watching your video I decided to check my oil cap. And sure enough it is a wix cap. I opened the cap and low and behold no oil on filter or in houseing. This is very upsetting that previous owner switched caps and filter and didn't save it say anything. I've put about 10'000 miles on it so far I just hope I didn't hurt anything up until this point .
Ron, I have a 2003 F350 with the 6.0 engine. The first issue I had was the truck seemed to be running a little rough. I noticed more vibration in the cab than normal. I drove about 30 to 40 miles into town and back with no change. I changed the oil checked the cooling level and replaced both fuel filters with motorcraft. The oil filter housing is stock and I also used motorcraft oil and filter. The issue started getting worse with these symptoms. Runs rough cold and when warmed up. Sometimes not all the time the truck will stall when put into gear. Several times there was no pedal response when in drive. In park or neutral I can rev up the rpms. If the truck stalls it will be hard to restart. I purchased the scangauge 2 and programmed for the 6.0. The FMP was running 47. The ICP was zero key on engine off and 836 or so at idle. The IPR was 30 or so at idle. No codes are coming up. Any thoughts? Thanks, John
Thanks for video Now that makes sense why some other brands tell you not to reuse cap. I see even Ford has filter available with or without cap. In the manual it mentions leaving the oil drain plug out when changing filter. I assumed this was to help drain filter housing maybe not needed? I believe the other weights are 5w-40 10w-30 0w-30 & 0w-40, did not see 5w30 as mentioned. The thinner weights were not recommended in warm temperature. I just changed & 15w-40 is recommended down to 20 degrees, I prefer to put in 5w-40 synthetic during winter cause it does get below 20 F here. It seems to start & run better if left out in cold with 5w-40. Thanks Again.
I have a 2010 f250 6.4,,, And is been giving a lots of problems related to turbos,,, the oil indicator light came on , so i went and changed the oil pressure/temperature sensors ,then i took my truck for a ride and it ran smooth for a couple of miles , But same light can back on again , then i ent and do the process again , but this time i also replaced the map/AIT sensor too, including oil pressure/temperature ,, and also turbos , truck ran ok for a while (though didnt get much boost from turbos ) this time my truck ran longer until the oil indicator light came back on again , but managed to drive back home , though white smoke kept coming out of the exhaust , same thing happened before i replaced this turbos ,,, oh i got a code P0179A is about power to turbo actuator circuit , ,,,
When I change my oil the other day it took 14 quarts of oil and now shows full on the dipstick. It is at the very end of the dipstick right where the wire starts. I pulled the oil filter first with the filler cap open and dipstick removed pulled the drain plug and let it drain for over 20 min. I also had the truck parked on flat surface overnight. Do you think I will need to add the 15th quart soon?
FYI, Racor makes the Motorcraft filters, and last I heard Fram repackages Racor filters, but that was before the fram/ champ merger. the reason WIX/Napa/CQ filters have the attached cap is the Racor filter system is patented and they will not pay for the use of the patent so that is their work around. 12K engine I would rather use a Motorcraft/Racor filter anyway cheap insurance
If/when you can you could make a "series" of videos doing maintenance work. You already have oil/fuel filters, now when you get a chance you could setup videos for things like transmission fluids, diff fluids (front and rear, 4by s) and the slightly more intricate things like repairing/re-greasing the esof hubs and parking brake jobs. I think service brakes are kind of self explanatory but it could be made a FULL brake service if you get the chances. Thanks for the videos you already have, they're very informative and help me to understand whats what and how to try and save a buck where I can or to know if its out of my league.
Ditch that regen system if you want your truck to last. Diesel fuel makes a crappy lubricant so keep it out of the oil. My 6.4 has over 300,000 miles and have never had a problem (starter, trans at 270k) because it has been deleted since near new. Full delete and a tuner, which you may have to go to Mexico to get done. hint hint. This truck rips 4"straight pipe , K&N, tuner.
Ran out of room on first post. The first thing I did when I bought the truck was change fluids and put OEM filters on it. So its my fault for not catching the oversized cap.
Just changed my first 6.0 filter set. It wasn't fun. An impact (deep) 36mm doesn't go well on the lower fuel filter! I bought a filter wrench on amazon for $9.00 which works great. You mentioned taller caps. I changed it with motorcraft filters but after seeing this how do I know it isn't a taller cap? Can I check this without removing the filter? It went on as I expected.
I have a 2005 superduty with 146k miles harley edition Im getting a hesitation the first 10 min of driving and while im driving if the truck goes into 5 gear when i accelerate it dosent down shift until i release the gas and then accelerate it down shifts to 3 gear I changed all filters including fuel filters What can that be ?? Thanks
I have an 05 Ford 250 diesel 6.0 in 7 months I need head gasket turbo needs to be clean fuel injectors fuel pump I am the second owner all this problem at happen to the first owner never take care it or it just happen with me I just bought my truck 7 months ago thank you
Great information Ron, Thank you so much, I just replace all the filters but I didn't know that NAPA filters are not that good. Hey, How many miles or how long do I have to use then to replace them again?
Ron, I what do you do if the oil filter spring sticks hard in the up position? I have to press down hard to get it down, then the spring action is smooth and easy through its range, but when I let it back up it freezes again. Thanks for the great videos
I took the exhaust filter off started the 6.4 ford and ran for a few minutes turn it off now it has a lock near the dash light panel. will not start now. anyone with a help thank you
I have a 2008 6.4. I have done a dpf delete and a cat delete. I was told I would be getting around 20 mpg but I'm getting 13.5. My tuner is set to economy. Any suggestions?
got a question we got a 6.4l powerstroke in and on top of the spring housing theres suppose to be a white plastic piece and its missing they said after they just got a oil change it shows the oil light comes on at a idle but as soon as u hit the accelerator light goes away? does that plastic piece have something to do with it and if so what is it called? i have never came across this before.
I HAVE A 2004 F250 6.0 I CHANGE THE OIL ON MY TRUCK, I HAVE THE ORIGINAL CAP AND FILTER ,I CHECK AT THE DEALER, BUT WHEN I TOOK MY FILTER OFF, IT DIDN'T GO UP WITH THE SPRING, SO WHAT CAN I DO NOW.
WOW! Great stuff. Sorry I only just found this. RIP. I changed my oil after watching this video. Ron said the filter should have a spring action when inserted. Does anyone know what it means if it doesn't spring up and down? Should I be worried? I used a Motorcraft FL2016W oil filter.
I did an oil change before doing any research. I just got an oil filter and changed the oil and filter. ...well I did a few things wrong according to your video. I drained the oil first, then changed the filter. I got a Napa gold filter and didn't have a clue to check the filter length and cap size. I did notice that there were some instructions with the filter describing two different spring systems inside the filter housing. The spring system in my truck matched the one for the filter I got. Hopefully that means it is okay. I also didn't lubricate the gasket when I put the cap on. Should I pull the filter back out to check if I am getting full coverage?
***** i hope you didn't throw away the ford cap... the o ring on the napa filters like to blow out and puke the oil all over the top of the engine, take it from eexperience of replacing a 6.4 engine for a friend who had this happen and ended up with a rod knock... he tired to sue napa which didnt work:) 15 grand later new complete and do NOT overfill the engine oil on any engine if its like 1/16th of an inch to much then whatever but like 1/4 of an inch is to much
I have a Ford 350 2008 and 6.4 with 186,000 mileage. I bought this truck in a auction. Supposedly the motor had some noise but the motor is locked. I thought it was the starter and I changed the solenoid of the starter. The motor moved a bit but then it locked again. If the motor is locked what can it be or what can I do? A mechanic said that the motor may have water in it so that can be the reason why its locked. Can anyone help with any information you may have to this issue? I will really appreciate it. Thank you in advance.
I am trying to change my water/fuel separator on my 2004 F250 6 liter and it keeps draining and want stop. I have a full tank. I have unhooked both batteries, taken the fuel filter cap off. It will not keep drain fuel so I can change the filter. Can you or anyone help me. Thanks
I usually do it quick or raise the lines. leaving caps and stuff on helps to stop it because it may cause a vacuum. it siphoning so you can't stop it without pushing the fuel back or raising it above the source
I need help, I changed the oil on my 2005 f250 6.0, I let it warmed up for 15 minutes, I revved it up to 2500 rpm it died out and now it won’t start 🤷♂️
Gabriel Martinez no I did not, but for some reason my IPR valve went out with the new oil, I removed the valve and the screen on the valve itself was stuck , long story short I cleaned it out and put a new screen and started right up and still running good, thanks for replying 😊✌️
Where did this guy learn to change oil?? First, loosen the oil filter cap, this lets air in and helps drain the oil and filter. Second drain the oil from engine. Third, change filter while oil is draining. Saves time. Fourth, Replace drain plug, add oil. Then check for leaks etc.
Ford in their Brazil market sells the F-250 with a Cummins engine. If they could put an Allison transmission behind that I'm moving there. Mainly the biggest problems with the 6.4 are a result of EPA compliance part. There are plenty of aftermarket parts to make these problems away and continue to make this trouble free truck. Hand down the fit and finish of the Ford products are superior, like the GM I had pull the door shut and your left with a door handle in your hard. The 6.4 turbo has great acceleration from start to finish. So Greg what do you think is better?
I've always been a Ford Guy, but if your gonna get a Diesel I would get a Cummins just for thier ease to work on, lower cost in parts and still get good power. The Chevy Duramax are great but they have injector problems. And I wouldn't own any diesel from 2008 and newer cause of all the emissions crap.
