IDM Wire Harness Pin Test. P1316 DTC. 2001 7.3 Power stroke 

Big thanks Kieth. And yes I did leave out load testing. That point is something I have had to clarify several times in comments with viewers on this video. How the low voltage of the ohm test would carry thru just a few strands of a frayed wire but not the 120 Volta DC that the idm puts thru. It’s hard to film what you are working on and remember to include every possible detail of the process as well. Thanks again for taking the time to comment and especially to share with me and the viewers that important aspect I left out. I appreciate it when our little community backs each other up. Also thanks for watching, we’ll keep cranking um out

.@@bayoudiesel I agree we do have a great 7.3 community. I live in Slidell, and I noticed your channel starts with Bayou, are you in Louisiana or in the south down here Gulf somewhere? Just curios. Look fwd to watching some more of your 7.3 videos. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith

@@keithnoneya yes sir. I’m in the Lafayette area. And I’d appreciate any comments that come to mind if you watch any more videos. Always trying to improve the channel and myself. Lol.

Thanks for the compliment and giving some of your time to my channel. Hope the info helps ya out.

Thanks for the compliment and giving some of your time to my channel. Hope the info helps ya out.

@@JustinLaurent-ow5rd glad you enjoyed it. Although seeing which video it is I hope you aren’t to deep in the weeds with your project. Let me know if any questions come up. Appreciate the comment and thanks for watchin

Thanks. I hope it helps ya out and u got some enjoyment as well.

Thanks bud. Also on a side note, keep in mind that this test is looking for broken & shorted wires. But it is possible to have a wire with just a few strands still hanging on that will give a good ohm test because of the low voltage but will not be strong enough to carry the 120 volts dc from the idm. So a false positive is possible. But I find this test usually helps isolate the trouble spot. Good luck on your project and thanks for watchin.

That’s really good to hear. Glad I could be of help and thanks very much for watching.

Mardino93 what was the problem with you truck ? I did this test and all showing 3.4 ohms but still getting code p1316 and 2,3,6,8 cylinders short to high to low side open

@@John-n6g not to say the idm can’t go bad but I find more often than not it’s a wiring issue. Keep in mind that this test is limited tho. Even a frayed wire with only a couple of strands still connected can pass an ohm test but not carry the 120 v dc that the idm puts out.

@@bayoudieselI don't have to have the batteries hooked up to get an accurate test do I

@@John-n6g no. When testing ohms the meter uses its own battery power. But it is always a good idea to have the batteries disconnected when doing these kind of test. Uncles you are tracking volts or amps. Then they need to stay hooked up. Side note. You’ll be looking for out of spec ohm readings or no reading when there should be. Feel free to hit me back if questions arise.

Thank you so much!!!

Ok that’s a good bit of data to digest. I’ll have to read it a couple of times to sort thru it. But for starters: Where does the relay chatter noise seem to be coming from? Do you have any type of windshield leak ? And as far as the glow plugs go the glow plug wires are hot from the relay for around 1.5min each cycle of the key no matter what the wait to start light does. They are 12v hot and the plugs ground thru their threads into the block. Like a spark plug. Computer makes a ground to the glow plug relay to make this happen. I’ll reread this a bit later today when I have more time and hit ya back.

@@bayoudiesel no windshield leaks as far as I know. Relays and connectors appear corrosion free. I wrote I checked the IDM connector, but that was the PCM. I'll pull the fender liner next and inspect the IDM. As far as glow plug circuit goes: with key off, valve cover connectors unplugged, glow plug wires unplugged from the relay, I get continuity to ground on brown and yellow glow plug wires, which concerns me. I'm going to unplug the large square connector on the valve cover and redo my test. Relay chatter comes from fuel pump relay and IDM relay. I can hear it and feel it with my finger. It stops as soon as I pull the relay. Sometimes it stops when I turn the headlights on. Truck can start. Runs rough. Sometimes headlight on help.

@@alexzbarazky3038 where are u testing and getting continuity on glow plugs? Cause if u test from 9 pin to a ground u will see continuity. And while the 9 pin is disconnected if u cycle key to on u will see 12 v on the pins coming from the engine harness for about 1 1/2 minutes. It may be easier to talk it over. Hit me up on email bayoudieseltrucks@gmail.com and send me ur number and a time ur free to kick it around.

Appreciate it bud. Just trying to keep as many of these bad ass ole gals on the road as possible. Hope you enjoy and we’ll keep em coming. Thanks for watchin

2.7 ohms is outta spec at the idm connector whats that mean

@@patrickpatterson3239 on electrical components there is usually a specification of how many ohms of resistance that component will show on an ohms test when it is good. For the 7.3 injectors that spec is between 2.8-3.6. Now in this test of ohming out the idm plug you are checking for readings out of this spec to attempt to find your problem area. So if you get a bad reading you can shorten the loop by moving inward to the 42 pin connecter and testing there. If still out of spec then move in to the valve cover harness. Each of these steps is ruling out sections of the harness and narrowing your focus towards the troubled area. Couple of side notes to keep in mind. Some meters are more accurate than others so if you are getting a reading that is 0.1 out of spec you may still be good. The thing to watch out for with ohm testing like this is that if you are testing a wire that has several broken wires and just a few strands still holding it can show good even with a few strands holding but will not carry the load of 120v DC that the idm sends to the injectors.

@bayoudiesel tyvm is a 2.7 ohms all around far enough to cause a no start? Ive seen 2.8 to 3.5 ohms is preferred

If I found your numbers I would make note of them but would move on to looking at other usual no start suspects before I worry about 2.7

@@bayoudiesel tyvm

Your welcome. Just trying to keep these cool ole gals on the road. Appreciate the comment and thanks for watchin

Good to hear. Glad you got something out of it.

Thanks bud. I appreciate the comment. Thanks for watchin.

Now that’s a pretty good comment right there. Lmao

😆😆😆😆

I hear ya. I keep a spare that came out of a parts truck for testing. What codes are ya getting?

@@bayoudiesel p0603 code i ruled out the idm i think. Basically wont run up past 1100 rpm and a few weeks back had a no start, replaced glow plugs everything worked fine for a while(im assuming from the battery disconnect)

@@offgridhandyman if memory serve that is the kam(keep alive memory) code. If so that pops up every time you disconnect batteries. Do ya have access to watch live data streams on a scanner?

@@bayoudiesel yea it is the kam code. No i dont alls i have is a ob2 reader and a superchips reader which is the one that found the code. No check engine light came on either. Maybe ill have to ask around locally for someone with a snap on dignostic

@@offgridhandyman ok. Sense we don’t have access to live data we can do it old school. Give me a little history on your rig and how it came to this poor running condition.

All the 7.3’s I’ve been dealing with have been Superduty’s im not familiar with the pin outs on the obs. But the procedure should be the same. What I would do is see if I can get the wiring diagram and the pin layout for the the connectors. Then ohm them out.

Sound like a short in the common hot for that bank. Keep in mind that an ohm test uses minimal voltage so if a wire is damaged (frayed) with just a few strands holding on the ohm test can pass but it will not carry a load when the idm try’s to send 120v DC thru it. You can disconnect both sides of the harness and use a light bulb to test the circuit and see if that wire can carry a load

It very well could be the IDM. If you can find one to test your theory its a pretty quick swap. Are you getting any smoke while cranking? Have you scanned it for codes? Whats hpop pressure looking like?

Usually 1316 means electrical issue in the harness. When I start at the idm plug and find an issue I will usually move inward to the 42 pin plug on the driver side valve cover. Test again. If issue is still there then I will move inward to the 9pin uvch plug and test again. If the issue stays in front of the of you then it may be that injector. If the issue disappears when you move inward then you have past it up and it is in the section of harness behind you. Hit me back if you have any more questions and thanks for watchin and the comments

Readings out of spec more often than not means wiring issues. Of course it could be a bad injector solenoid to cause that is in the loop you are testing. Testing thru the idm plug tests the whole loop. So when I get bad readings I’ll narrow it down by going to the 42 pin connector and testing the shorter loop then to the under valve cover harnesses and possibly test the inj solenoid it self. Most commonly it’s the under valve cover harnesses or chaffed wires in the harness tho. Side note: keep in mind with ohm testing wires that an ohm meter uses low voltage to test so you can get a false reading meaning a wire may have a few strands still connected to give ya a good ohm test but not be able to carry the 120volts DC load being sent to pulse the injectors. Hope this helps if not hit me back. Thanks for watchin.

Let’s back up a bit. Tell me what she is doing and a little history on ur rig. Let’s kick it around a bit.

@@bayoudiesel She turns over with not even a hint of diesel. She is my glorious plow truck, was having some hard starts when cold. She would not start when hot. Started great if I wasn’t driving her hard. Did my injector seals and shimmed to get my clearances back while I waited for the new valve cover gaskets to arrive. Still nothing. Unplugged my icp to get my pcm to default 500 while I worked the air out of the oil. I don’t get any unburnt diesel coming out my tail so it’s like the injectors aren’t getting pressure.

@@rudolfdiesel7.3version31 my take on the “no unburnt” fuel would be either on the electric side or hydrolic side. Either the injectors are not pulsing (electrical) or u have no high pressure oil to push the poppet and squirt the fuel (hydrolic). Do you have access to a scanner so we can see some live data numbers?

@@bayoudiesel that’s kinda where I’m stuck. When I plug in with a obd2 scan tool I don’t get anything. I realize this is pre 96 but it has a port for obd2 so I’m confused. I swapped the pcm with one that was in another working 7.3. I did continuity tests on all my fuses. Live data stream on the ipc, ipr, and hpop is a route I would like to go next. That said I keep hearing about having to flash my pcm to be obd2 compatible but when I call tune shops they don’t understand what I’m asking for and let’s be honest, I don’t understand what I’m asking for lol

@@rudolfdiesel7.3version31 doesn’t make sense to me to have to flash a computer to be obd2 compatible if that’s how it came from the factory. Have u run thru the fuses with a test light to make sure everything is hot? I would start there to make sure pcm is getting power. If not fix that issue. If pcm has power and no communication then I might try swapping with another as long as they are compatible. Does ur check engine light come on and then go off when u key on? That’s a sign of pcm trouble also.

Do you have access to a scan tool to watch live data? As for the 42 pin test, I don’t have a video on that yet but all that is is moving down the harness closer in to try and find or eliminate bad and good sections of harness to isolate the problem. If you replaced the engine harness already the would probably not be the issue. These trucks need to see things like cps to know where the timing is as well as icp psi to see that there is a min of 520psi or it will not pulse the injectors. Among other things to. We need to figure out what part of the equation you are missing that causes the no start. You may need to send me your number to my email and we can kick this around over the phone. I hate to bring these things out of the comments but it’s hard enough trying to diagnose via comments. Bayoudieseltrucks@gmail.com

So #6 is way outta spec. Could be wiring or the solenoid but would only be isolated to #6. 1294 is high side open banks 2 (left side). Possible causes are open circuit or faulty idm. Sense you seem to already have a circuit issue with #6 I would lean that way. Although you see idm code I find more often ten not its wiring and not the idm. But if you can find/borrow one you could swap it to test. Back to the wiring. The center pin is the shared hot for the injectors. The 2 in front and behind it are the inj grounds. To loose a bank the center may be shorted or multiple wires are shorted. If you test the harness through the idm plug then move to the 42 pin and preform the same test then to the uvch 9 pin plug you may be able to isolate your problem. However keep in mind that even a frayed wire that is rely hanging on by a thread or two can ohm out but it will not carry a load of 110 v dc. So a good visual inspection of the wiring especially from the 42 pin to the uvch would be a good idea. Hope that helps. Hit me back if ya have any other questions. Thanks for watchin.

On this test it probably doesn’t matter. When you unplug the idm you are isolating the harness. I don’t remember if I talked about this in the video but you can get false positives with the ohm test. Meaning even if a frayed wire only has a few good strands the low voltage of the ohm meter may show it good. But it won’t carry the 120v dc load being sent to the injectors.

When in the slightest doubt, or working any electrical unhook batteries

That is correct. If u get a good buzz test you are usually ok. This test is good for identifying a bad cylinder with bad wires / connectors or solenoids. Also good for narrowing down the location of the trouble. Hit me back if that doesn’t answer your question. Thanks for watchin!!

ok, so if memory serves pin 26 is the ground and pins 23&24 are the feeds (left & right banks respectively). Feeds are the common Hot shared by all injectors on that bank. The pcm makes and breaks the ground which is specific to each injector to pulse them. pin 26 and pin 18 are ground and shield respectively. What your info suggests is communication (short) between the feeds and the ground. Ford manual says possible causes are Short circuit, shorted injector,or failed IDM. If you have access to a test idm you could try swapping it out. Otherwise you need to eliminate sections of the harness to locate the problem area. I would start ate the 9 pin plugs and do the ohm test again on just the uvch. If that tests good then back up to the 42 pin connector over the drivers side valve cover. If that passed pin test form the idm plug again. This will tell weather its the uvch, engine harness, or engine bay harness. There are more places to check but that's the usual culprits. If you can't locate the problem hit me back with feedback from these test and we can put a new plan of attack.

Another side note. Ohming wires can be confusing in the sense that you can get a good ohm test and still have a fail. Ohms test sends minimal voltage down the wire which can show as a pass even if most of the wire is frayed or broken. As long as there is a strand or two still good it can show as a pass.The IDM sends 110-120 volts DC to the injectors so a frayed wire will not be able to carry that kind of a load through the bad section of wire. I know, this electrical shit can make you pull your hair out.

If so something is grounding / shorting out. Both of those should read open circuit.

I have a few questions to get ya started. High continuity on which wires? Do u know which injectors are the possible trouble causers? Do you have access to a scanner for live data, buzz test or cylinder contribution?

Just need to see what we are working with before we get into it.

Yes I have FORScan

And The continuity that tested high was the passenger side I’m not sure which injectors I forgot but one thing I do want to mention is I ended up popping off the valve cover and I swapped the valve cover gaskets in the truck started rough but it started

Is there a way that I can contact you to send you pictures at all of what I’m doing?

It very well could be the cheap tester. If u know someone u could get a good one to verify yours that would answer that. If u are ohm testing from the idm plug to get these results I would move closer such as doing the same test from the 42 pin connector on top of the driver side valve cover or going right to the 9 pin uvch connector. More offer than not u will be chasing wire/connector issues. But to rule out injector solenoids for that 1 ohm overage test the directly. If in spec then the issue is in the harness.

For this test it doesn’t matter because you are disconnected from the rest of the truck ounce you unplug the idm. However it is a good practice to unhook batteries unless you are testing for 12v on something. But this test is just making a loop. And the loop is unhooked from the rest of the truck. Side note when ohm testing you are using really low volts and if a wire is frayed you can sometimes get a false positive if you just have a few strands still connected but that wire will fail when carrying a load. Like the 120v DC that the idm puts out.

Can you tell me about what the truck is doing? Are there any codes? Do you have access to a scan tool?

@@bayoudiesel there is no codes I check my icp and ipr and they seem to be all fine I drop it to work one they and I park it and try to start it back up and didn’t crank at first it seems like you where able to get it back running like maybe 1 time every day but now is completely dead replace injectors and harness for the motor and for the injectors and still nothing have been to two shops and they can’t find nothing the first shop told me that they can’t get no communication from the idm to pcm

I did this test and my passenger side is showing me 10.6 or 12.5 in all of the passenger side ones

Update I replace both harness and all injectors same with the idm and ecm now I am having better reading but still with all that replace I am still having a 4.0 in 3 of my passenger side but it still not running

@@jaredmembreno8287 are you getting any white smoke while cranking? Is the engine trying to pop off or just spinning over? Is the oil full on the dip stick? Have you checked the hpop reservoir to see if it is staying full?

As far as testing an idm goes I usually have some parts trucks around here or a spare idm from another truck on truck that I can swap out and see if it helps. More often then not I have found problems to be in the wiring. But a bad idm is not an uncommon thing either.

Have u done a buzz test? As far failed circuits, if u tested from the idm plug then I would test from the 42 pin plug over the driver side valve cover as well. If it still fails then I would go to the 9 pin vch plug and test. This will attempt to narrow things down and determine where the problem is. Eliminate what’s good and what ever is left should be what needs attention. Hope that helps

@@bayoudiesel hey thanks for the reply. I have not done the buzz test (I think that’s only on the ford 7.3 we have the international t444e 7.3l). The main plug has 3 wires going to the idm on it and all of them do good. But on the idm plug like I said you said pin 23 and pin 24 to pin 26 should be open loop but it’s not 23 has a ton of resistance and 24 has some resistance. I checked down inside the valve cover and all the stuff seems to be fine continuity wise. Any help is appreciated!

In the Lafayette area. Tell me what’s going on and maybe I can point ya in a direction.

I could use a little more info about what u are fighting with.

2000 f250 my truck its smoking Disconect right bank and stop smoking I checked the omhs from the idm wire and all injectors good only the common grounds do not read open on pin 23 to 26 and 24 to 26

@@panchoaguilar9207 it would appear that u have a short to ground somewhere. It’s my understanding the the pcm makes / breaks grounds to control solenoids. 23&24 are the feeds (hots) for each bank so any short to ground is going to cause electrical trouble. I would start by inspecting both sides of the 42 pin connector over the drivers side balance cover for chafing. After that I’d unplug the 9 pins on uvch and ohm that out, if good then plug them back and ohm test from the 42 pin. This should help u eliminate/isolate where the problem is and isn’t.

Is the idm a known good one? Is the pcm good? What codes are u getting from the pcm?

@@bayoudiesel I just got a remanned idm. This all started when I did an injector buzz test. All injectors would buzz but I would get a 1294 code. I had just changed injector cups and checked ucvh and all looked great. I deduced it was idm. 494k and 22 yrs felt long enough for idm Now after I got new idm, now I get no buzz on injector buzz test and now 1293 and 1294. This is also the 2nd idm, when this first happened I thought I had a dud. When I ohm out the idm connector I have high impedance on 2468. It seems to be a bad short killing all power to idm. PCM is good Sorry for the novel and thx!

@@davidcooper9930 seems to me like u have a wiring issue that started by killing the driver side bank and now both banks. My experience has been that idm codes lean more toward wiring issues than the idm. Doesn’t mean to totally rule out a bad idm tho. These rigs are all around 20 yrs old and that’s a good bit of wear on the harness and connectors. My starting point would be to inspect wiring and all connectors for fraying and damaged / burnt connector pins. Another good spot to check is under the 42 pin connector that attaches over the driver side valve cover. They are prone to rubbing on the vc and creating shorts. Pull it and inspect the underside very good. Put some loom or make a rubber boot to cover wires. U can also use a crescent wrench to bend the tang that holds the plug up a little. That will help hold it off of the vc. Let me know what u find and we can kick around any more questions. If it’s easier u can email me. Bayoudieseltrucks@gmail.com

Also I may have some wiring schematics if u need something to help u chase wires. What fun. Lol

I swap it out with a known hood one. Other than that I would think you would need to send it somewhere like Diesel technology of Chattanooga for testing.

Known good one. Lol. Not hood

@@bayoudiesel ok and if I sent it to them would they be able to repair it also

@@seandrake7534 yes sir. They can test it then fix or replace it.

Thanks for giving my channel some of your time. I really appreciate it.

¿Quiso decir P 1316 porque no veo una p 1326 en mis manuales? Si es 1316, normalmente apunta al IDM según la descripción. Normalmente encuentro problemas de cableado en el arnés del motor o en un conector. Para seguir adelante con usted, necesitaré saber qué está haciendo el camión.

Have you done a buzz test? Are there any codes? The thing with injectors is that when you narrow things down to and injector you either have an electrical problem or a mechanical one. Meaning: electrical can be wiring or components Mechanical can be a physical issue like clogged tip, or internal failure like o ring or spring or stuck piston.

@@bayoudiesel ran multiple buzz tests, first it came back with: Inj. 1,3,7 high to low side open Then it came back with: Inj. 1,3,5 high to low side open Then it came back with: Bank 1 high to low side open & Inj. 4 high to low side open Like I said, I had this issue before installing new -injectors -uvch -swapping IDMs -swapping inj. solenoids -checked every single wire injector related (ohm tested, sent power thru IDM plug to each inj. plug, no voltage drop & no amperage drop) Basically ruled out the injectors being the problem when I changed all 8, ruled out IDM when swapping them, ruled out wiring, disconnected hydra (in case that was the issue) Issue was present before and after installing any new parts.

@@bayoudiesel the only thing left in that loop is the pcm which isn’t really responsible for injectors not firing but it does control the IDM so I just sent out IDM & PCM to Jonathan at DTC to get them tested. Also should mention that every buzz test I ran, injectors 1,3,5 sounded a little muffled with #1 being the quietest

@@bartekwitas9500 did you replace the 9 pin pigtails that came with the uvch? I usually find that wiring is more often the culprit than components, due to the age of these rigs. With all that you have done so far I am leaning toward an issue in the engine harness. Pull the 42 pin connector on top of the drivers side valve cover and open / pull back the loom and inspect the underside of the individual wires. Look for chafing ect. Check the paint on the valve cover where that harness like to rub and see if paint is scuffed. Also open/pull back the loom on each of the 9 pin connectors and look for old repairs and chafing. Another good spot to look is in the hard bend just behind where the 42 pin bracket is located. Look for same.

@@bayoudiesel the only question I have is, if I tested every wire, there was no voltage drop, no amperage drop, ohm tested good, how could the wiring still be an issue ? Is there any way the pcm itself could be the issue ? I sent PCM & IDM out to get tested.

I don’t have any info on testing the IDM. If you find some please share it and I’ll pass it around. As for the IDM I have a spare one that is good so when in doubt swap it out. PCM is the computer same as pcu just different terminology. And again I have no test procedures for that. I have a spare there as well. The pcm could be sent to diesel technology of Chattanooga to be tested. Possibly the idm to but you’d have to check with them. Let me know what going on with your rig and we can see if we come up with some ideas to get her purring again

In case I missed it when I first read this. The PCM is right next to the park brake and sticks thru the fire wall to meet a large plug under the master cylinder

I test for power at the OBD 2 port as well. If no power there and all fuses are testing good the. Check the pcm relay and pcm diode in the under hood fuse box. If that tests good you would need the pin out diagram for the pcm plug to check that power is getting to the pcm. I can send that to ya if u send me an email or text number.

I did idm plug check like in ur video but no readings on drivers side looking for 42 connector male side to idm connector pin out would like to make sure that side of that harness is good

The is a pcm fuse and pcm relay. Location depends on what year your truck is. 99-early 02 or late 02-03. What year is your rig?

Sorry. This replay was from an earlier comment.

@@coolblue4077 send me your email and I can send ya the 42 pin plug pin out. Bayoudieseltrucks@gmail.com

When it comes to testing the components that’s above my pay grade. lol. You can un plug the components and load test plug to plug to check integrity of the wires and pins. I have used a simple 12 v light to do this. Works well

​@@bayoudiesel i don't mean the idm and pcm them selves just the plugs like the 42 pin to idm test but instead pcm plug to idm plug is it possible to test the 4 signal wires between idm and pcm i tried i cant get any continuity on anything i have main harness out that sits on top of engine i dont know if 42 pin plug has to be plugged in to do pcm plug to idm plug i still have a p1294 code these are last 4 wires and then i guess its idm time

Yes sir if you unplug the components then you can test the wires. I would ohm them first and then if you don’t find a trouble area then redo the test with a light like off of a trailer to apply load. You could do that light test first if you like and. Skip the ohm test. If you need the pin outs for the pcm plug I should have them and can send it to ya. Just send me your info at my email Bayoudieseltrucks@gmail.com

@@bayoudiesel so i need to unplug the 3 connectors on firewall and the 4 on inner fender as well or do they matter also do you know if the pcm diode in fusebox can cause individual bank to shut down or make it where im not getting any readings i cant get anything out of pcm plug thank you for your time

Also do you have to do pcm like the idm plug where your using both leads on one plug or its just plug to plug sorry for all the questions but i do appreciate it

0 ohms is good continuity with zero resistance

@@bayoudiesel on your paper it said it should be 2.8 - 3.6

@@danscreativespace sorry. I was in the middle of an ac repair and didn’t completely follow your question. I assume u are doing some version of my idm test in the video. Are you testing thru the idm plug? If so it would appear that you have a shorted wire and may be making continuity before getting to the injectors. Otherwise you would be getting numbers indicating resistance. You may need to move to the 42 pin connector or even all the way to the 9 pins to try to isolate the location of the problem. Hit me back with an explanation of what you have done so far to catch me up please.

@@bayoudiesel did a buzz test and got error codes p1273 p1275 p1277. Check the wire harness connected to the valve cover, didn’t see any burnt pins. Made sure harness was clean and securely connected. So followed your video on the IDM. Driver side ohms was reading around 3 for all cylinders for injector test. Passenger side was reading 0 for all cylinders (same cylinders coming back in buzz test). IDM ground test was okay

@@danscreativespace ok I’m with ya now. Have ya pulled the valve covers a to inspect uvch? I would do the ohm test again at the 9 pin. If those cylinders fail then uvch is bad If they pass then your short is probably further back in the harness. So my next move would be to conduct the ohm test at the 42 pin connector. If you need pin out info on these 2 connectors I can shoot it to ya

Good luck. Hit me back if you have questions or just let me know what fixed your problem. If you replaced the uvch and it’s pigtail a good place to check for frayed wires and shorts is both sides of the 42 pin plug. Also is common to pinch wires on the uvch when putting the valve cover back on. Thanks for watching

@@bayoudiesel so the passenger side is fine it's cyl 2 and 6. are not in range.

@@bayoudiesel the ground to circuit test passed as well.

so I reckon I'm tearing down the driver side next. gonna do a new uvch.

@@bayoudiesel and it was the same result with different IDM so I think its safe I can put that back on

No sir. The only stupid questions are the ones not asked. And you are not attempting the impossible. Just need to kick it around a bit and we can get ya dialed in I’m betting. First off this test can give false positives sometimes due to a frayed wire being able to carry and ohm test and not the load of 120v dc. I forgot to put that in the video. Catch me up on what the truck is doing and what you have done so far please?

hour a different tester out, i think that was some of my problem.. now i have good values for the left bank, and 0.L on cylinders 1 and 5... so i was panicking yesterday when the meter was messing with me, but a quick rundown, this truck sat and wiring harness was rodentized.... i had other issues going, so it sat some more after i took it to a mechanic. he preceded to steal my obdII scanner and the flash paq for my super chip and about 800 four of rolled up leads out of the back seat to start. lots of rigging to install pillar Guages and it shows🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️i put it on back burner, bought a low mileage truck for motor(paid 1500) and when i bought it, i was able to drive it away with an oil leak... guy said it was a rear main, so i put a skid in the bed of it and worked it until i fell asleep behind the wheel and flipped it with my vantage in it..😭now that low mileage motor is in this beast and its seen 3 more mechanics and can't get communication for obdII. In the middle of all of that, i ended up wiring on harness with solder and shrink, and even got it to work for a week about 4 hours away and when job was over, i went to the welding supply and it stopped and never ran again. i kept taking it places because i needed to work to pay for it all. low mileage motor from 2002 rwd xt and set of new dealer injectors, which i find turn out to be remans. I'm not positive there hasn't been sabotage, but feel like there should be enough here and I'm trying to put my buddy in the truck I'm driving now and me back in this one. he's a jam up mechanic, but we're here now)))i know, i know, a nightmare

oil leak in 1500 dollar truck turned out to be hpop fitting o rings...40 bucks at dealer😆😆i had already poured 1000 in Rotella out on the road putting truck to work😭😭😭

Tell me about what the truck is doing. Crank / no start?

@@bayoudiesel it starts and runs but occasionally will stop running when I’m driving or almost stall at idle

@@malakis69 what work have ya done to her?

@@bayoudiesel my father In law is a mechanic and rebuilt the engine not too long ago. He said the only thing he didn’t replace is the wire harness but I wanna rule out as many things as I can before I replace the whole harness

@@malakis69 smart move. Couple of questions. How much fuel does she have? When u pin tested the harness was the truck able to start or not? Will she always restart immediately or do you have to wait a while before she will start? Does it kill when engine is hot only or when temp is still cool?

Feel free to hit me up on email Bayoudieseltrucks@gmail.com

Tengo algunos diagramas de cableado pero necesito saber cuál necesitas.

The one you see me using is an older genesis that I picked up from a friend when he upgraded to a newer unit. Has all the live data stream functions. I also hear good things about ford scan which has similar functions as well as being a tuner.

@@bayoudiesel thanks. I had my 02 7.3 loose power and run rough. Feels like running on 4. I had rebuilt the turbo, all new injectors and glow plugs. Ran great for about a month. Then the power loss and rough run. Did the IDM pin test here and all looks good with consistent 3.4ohms. I guess a new IDM may be needed. Where you located btw? I’m in Mississippi.

@@designsbynoz I’m in Louisiana. As for this test keep in mind that while you can have a bad idm be through on checking for bad wires. One issue with this test is that seeing continuity on an ohm test in not definitive in the sense that the ohm meter uses a small voltage to ohm test but the idm puts out 110 or 120 bolts dc. So wires that are frayed can pass ohm test but not carry the load of the idm.

Sounds like you have an issue. How’s she running?

@@bayoudiesel idles fine when I start moving the driver side bank shuts off I replaced the valve cover gaskets new plug and pulled the engine harness off and combed through it found the back side of ipr socket was burnt up replaced it with old vc gasket plug seems to idle better I still have to put the valve covers and intercooler piping back on before I can see if my problem was fixed I also picked up an idm from a buddy for free and put in

Not really understanding. Acting up 9 sec but u say she is running good. Can u fill me in more on the problem u are fighting

Looked up the codes. And not sure if this pin test is the direction u need to go. When u get back to me with more of an explanation I can suggest what direction I would go.

I will try to take some videos and upload them to my channel to help further explain what I'm dealing with. Originally I was having long cranks and low power. Bucking around 40mph. I replaced ipr,icp,cam,ebpv sensors+ injectors/wiring harness, new hpop lines and fittings. After doing the repairs the truck cranks over well. Starts up in colder weather with no issues. Idles much better, but within 9 seconds of running I keep getting the p1211/1209 codes. The truck runs way better after all the remove and replaced parts. But still have the dreadful codes.. running out of ammo for my parts cannon.. lol Maybe fuel tank filters/screens? Or the idm/pcm may need to be sent out for repairs? I just feel like it's gotta be some electrical side issue

@@LukeUtigard I looked up your codes in a ford book I have. As I’m sure you have already checked into. So 1211 ipr pressure above or below desired and 1209 icp fault possible ipr stuck. Do u have a scanner that can live stream data to watch icp pressure live? We’re all your replacement parts ford or known good aftermarket replacements? Screens in the tank are always good to check on if it’s been a while and that would cause power loss. It appears to me that if u are seeing lack of hpop pressure and sense u replaced most of the hpop components the issue would lie with a faulty component or u may have cut o ring from install. Helped a guy a couple of weeks ago and fresh remained alliant injectors had one go bad internally causing a bypass and loss of hpop pressure. Replaced it again and problem solved. Hope this info helps

@@bayoudiesel thanks. Yeah I did all oem ford Motorcraft parts. They were expensive but I don't want to have to chase down a bad out of the box part. I'll try this pin test aswell as consider the fuel tank screens. I don't have a live scanner and that is frustrating. I was able to use a nice scanner a few weeks ago. Witch lead me down to bad injectors with the buzz test.