I'm building a '57 3200 and I wish I had seen this first. Not because of his pain tips, but because I'd bet you using a C10 trans tunnel like the one here would've been far less expensive than replacing my firewall and trans tunnel. Live and learn. By the way, a lot of guys told me to double-up on the cab mounts. One guy even said to use hockey pucks. If I didn't have a shop doing the work for me, I would have.
Awesome job always a pleasure watching you inspires me to get back on my project that's been laying up for almost 10yrs , much love brother keep up the good work your a inspiration
It’s me again thanks for getting back to me just following along with ya your a big motivation for me on mine and wow you’re getting so much done at one time and you don’t need a camera person you got this down brother
Sir, I found your videos and I’d like to say.... you have basically given me a master class on how to weld! I feel like I can do my rockers and door skins myself! These videos are AWESOME!!!
Welded a big patch on the bottom of the door in my 76 C20. Then I find the corner I just welded is 3/8" out of alignment with the new rocker panel. Gotta take it apart and start over. Just when I thought my day was gonna be crap you put out another video... Thanks. By the way... If I did what I should have and made a template to show the contour of the door ( like you did) I would have got it right the first time. It pays to listen to Gibson.
Great work and such an inspiration brother!! I'm doing a 63 short bed fleetside and have the same problem areas you have. Keep up the great work and keep those videos coming!!!
Looking good. I use Ful-proxy and Select prime on my stuff and really like it. Many complain about the epoxy bring hard to sand, but I've had no problem all. Many of my paint jobs are: bare metal-Ful Poxy-maybe some filler-maybe Select Prime... Then Full Poxy to seal and color on top. No problems. Like your style.
Couple of observations, I just found you about a week ago so I went back and watched your post from 2012 all the way through. Your video production has improved and your presentation is spot on. Your craftsmanship is great. My father has been doing this kind of work for his entire life, he is now 74 and still builds Rat Rods and other hot rods for 8-10 hours a day by himself (I live in another state). I think the only reason why he is alive today is because of metal and welding. He also does his own engine builds, frame work and upholstery work. Your videos have inspired me to do my own work on my Trans Ams. I have two 79 Silver Anniversary and a 72 455 T/A that I have been building budgets for other folks to do the heavy work. I decided I will do it myself now thanks to you and my father. I will try to video some of the work and send it to you. I think you should submit your video to Velocity for a show, "Back Yard Body Man" "Small Shop Maniac" something like that. Anyway Great Job, and thanks for the education and inspiration.
Don't need a garage really if your willing to work hard to rebuild your truck!! Alot can be accomplished right in your driveway!? Nice days of course!!
Frank van de luijtgaarden wow me Gibson has fans all over the world you should try to make it over here when mr Gibson has a car show and all his fans can all meet him seams we all have love for what he’s doin
I’m late to the party, but man that looks great! I’m ready to paint in ‘65 f100. This is just the motivation I needed! I’m a paint newbie, so my I ask you… how you determined the amount of primers & paint to mix for the interior? And how was it, painting the steering column in place? Thanks and love the channel!
Do you paint the whole truck in epoxy first and then start your repairs? Or is everything sandblasted and primered! Thanks for any info and your a true craftsman.
@@bondovwvw any epoxy will work in my experience. People also recommend superglue and baking soda applied in layers and sealed with superglue over the top but I've seen the baking soda shrink just enough to make it settle and either loosen or dimple.
Love your videos....I am a First Gen Camaro guy but looking to purchase a C10 project. I see you restore the 63 - 66s......Any reason you stick with those years vs the 67 - 72 model C10s ? Just curious. I like both body styles and there are plenty projects out there to pick from. Thanks.....Tom
Tom B I just wanted to say that I love how much more curvy these years are and like I told my wife it’s kinda like these years trucks are wearing a hat ( on top of the cab) but a mutha to sand and body work
What product did you use on the surface rust after wire wheeling it clean? You have mentioned Rust Mort before. I have used Ospho with great results. I just got mine stripped down for sandblast, hopefully priming the interior in the next week or two.
RIPbiker13 I used a rust encapsulator from Eastwood Then came back several days later with restoleum truck bed undercoating, the ospho works great no doubt, for my red pickup had it sandblasted,epoxied the came back with Rock-it-liner
Gibson63 I have Raptor bedliner I'm going to undercoat with. I also got Eastwood rust encapsulating paint for the insides of the a pillars. Sounds like I'm on the right path. Thank you for responding. Btw, I've been watching since about the time you started the red truck. Love your videos.
I have noticed that there seems to be some variation in the tranny humps that Chevy used. One is big and square and one is actually more like a car. Have you ever seen that?
The Tito 66 clusters are different then the 60-63 but mine was also stuck I just hit around on the back a few times a also had to pry with a plastic tool from the front but finally came out
Me Gibson I traveled to the super chevy show in Memphis and it was a mess I can understand why you wasn’t there it was 30 degrees sleeting and goin up and down the isles where the swap meet is was so muddy you bout bust your ass I talked to a guy bout a hood for my c10 and he wanted 500 firm and it was beat up and surface rust was really heavy he called it patenia well the prices was not really a deal you get those prices anywhere I really wanted to see yours and meet you I’m a fan maybe next time
Gibson63 well the reason I’m asking is because I own a clean 1993 Ford full size Bronco and I removed the interior to expose and clean everything and to basically preserve the floors as they are solid. The floors do however have a few spots with surface rust on them. My question to you is, could I wire wheel the surface rust off and sand everything with 320 grit and apply 2-3 coats of epoxy primer to the whole floor?.... after priming it I’m gonna base coat clear coat it after letting it cure for about 10 days.
BroncoChris After wire wheeling the surface rust down I would treat it with some sort of vinegar water 50/50 mix or Rust mort to kill/stop the rust then epoxy
