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I had a 2011 CRV auto, changed the gearbox fluid at 70.000 miles and sold it at 115,000 miles still driving like the day it came out of the showroom. The best car I have ever had.
Sorry, no it was the DTEC. My mechanic couldn't believe how clean the oil was every year when he did the service. At the moment I would say it was the best car I have ever owned and I have owned about 40 of them over the years, including BMW. I have bought a 190bhp diesel Tiguan because Honda stopped making diesel and hope it will be as reliable as the Honda.
I also had a CRV, 2011 and did 328,000 miles in it. Decided to get something slightly newer but as Honda no longer sell diesels I had to opt for Volvo Xc40. Nice car but I prefer the CRV.
I own a 2013 CRV going on 100,000 miles. No problems whatsoever. Just oil changes twice a year (5,000 miles each) and a filter or two. Changed the transmission fluid once. That’s it. Never had any problem with the “juddering” noted here. There is a brief rattle at start up, which I’m told is due to the variable valve timing - so far no problems. My son influenced me to buy a Honda and I am pleased with it. Starting with the 2017 model year (I think), Honda went to the 1.5 liter direct injection engine with CVT transmission. I do not care for those.
@@pahooper99. I had owned Volvo’s years ago but would not own one now due to it being Chinese-owned. I don’t want to give more business to a country that threatens US and its allies with destruction. Screw em!
V40 r design owner here and a D2 1.6 on a long run I average about 60-70mpg and around 50 around town. I've owned mine 6 years now and the only thing that's ever gone wrong is a broken spring and a engine mount. Been a great car to me
Hi James, those volvo v40 really are incredible on fuel I had one as a courtesy car when I got the volvo dealership to service my xc60, fairly quick also.
I had the sister car to the volvo. A ford focus 1.6d econetic. I got it as a runner for work. Combined was 64 mpg and it would get 78 mpg + at 70 to 74mph on a run. It is an incredibly frugal engine. So I can believe it. It had a few engine management gremlins though.
We have a 2015 V40 CC D2. Has always averaged well above 60 to the gallon, at one point even averaging 66MPG during summer. Having said that, the head gasket is prone to going on the D2’s, and it’s no cheap fix either. Thankfully not an issue we’ve encountered in the last 7 years of ownership, in fact the only issue we’ve ever had was an ABS sensor beyond general maintenance , so I wouldn’t let the horror stories put you off. Brilliant cars though, we’re now on our second (a T3 2018 petrol).
I've got a 63 plate V40 D2, it's a lovely drive, actually the best car I've ever driven, so comfortable and I'm 6ft 4. Amazing MPG, HOWEVER I've had it 5 years now. Bought it used from a main dealer and no exaggeration I've spend over £1k on it minimum every year new clutch/ gearbox at 80k miles and the daul mass fly wheel done too. Its now done 130k miles and still drives like a new car. Hoping 2023 brings a year of less expense haha!
@@sp-tw8ij a 63 plate D2 isn't a Geely engine though, it's a PSA unit (Pug/Citroen). Personally, I'm a Volvo man and that means preferably the Volvo engines, which in this era are the excellent D3/4 or D5 (all 5-cylinder units) - not many better diesels around than those. The 1.6 D2 PSA engine is okay, certainly much less of a monetpit than the "1.6D" PSA engine found in P1 platform cars, but it isn't in the same league as the 5-pots for reliability, performance or character.
I have the same problem on my Honda Civic Auto. Doing low speeds on a cold engine can be a knightmare. Once engine has warned up or driving at higher speeds no problems. If I had known it was a common issue and just needed a gearbox flush I'd have had it done ages ago.... Thanks for the info.
I bought an older (2008) CRV before Christmas, and they delivered it the day after I got hit with Covid. Because I was feeling so rough, I didn't bother having a test run, I thought 'they've just driven down from London, so it must be okay', then went back to bed. The interior lights don't work, the auto wipers do whatever they please - but worst of all, it's got electronic steering, which feels intermittent and is next to impossible to steer in a straight line. Now, having watched your video, I've just realised it's also got the 'Honda tremble' at lowish speeds! Thanks Chops. Luckily, I've still got my trusty old Toyota Regius - which I wouldn't swap for 10 of these Honda CRVs
I haven't owned a diesel CRV but I do drive a 1.5TDCi (123ps) Focus Zetec & it is best miles per gallon engine that I am aware of. I rarely go on the motorway and most of my driving is suburban based. I average around 70 mpg. You do have to know how to drive them to get that from them though. EG: Changing up & down the gears in the most fuel efficient way.
I have a manual 2.2 CR-V and a it's great car, but have heard about this issue on the Auto. To me it first really reared its head in Canada (or that's where I noticed the forums get going on it). That was over eight years ago, but people still have the cars, and I've not seen any trends towards low milage failures. Obviously this is not a scientific poll etc. But it's interesting Honda never put another mechanical fix in place. I could be interesting to see how they "sell" the problem in Canada and the US. Regardless, explaining the problem is the fairest approach to selling it. That's a great spec version however, and if it drives as good as mine does, it's still a nice car. The grease on the door stay, mine is the same, so someone has looked after it :)
I've got the s60 with the D2 and average about 35 mpg and it's never waiver from that .. performance is no ball of fire but once above 2000 rpm it starts to get lively.
im a tech for honda. Not too sure about the european spec cr-v, but here in the U.S. its our pilots mainly that come in with this concern and its usually because the customer doesnt service the atf. You are correct though a software update is done as well as several transmission fluid changes, while going through the gears on the lift. It definitely works. Occasionally but not often the torque convertor may need to be replaced.
Hi James, the filter is internal and you have to drop the trans tear it apart to get to it ...just have it flushed, flashed and if you wanna fill 2 to 4 Oz of shudder fix ...(comes in a small tube) it wont hurt it(pour 1 or 2 in and drive it to mix it ...beleive me it works (all Canadian CRVs are autos, dont think ive ever seen a manual one here 😂 )
Hmm, if that CRV has the traditional 5 speed slushbox then its a pretty robust box, used in Accords & CRVs Petrols for years. If I remember correctly the fluid change on these is in the handbook/srvc book and needed every 37.5k/40k miles (or 3yrs ish). But who bothers right.... then you get these problems, neglect. If it is the box I'm thinking of it should have the level dipstick on the right front of the engine bay. Only every use Honda fluid. On older Accords there was a small black external filter on the fluid line at the top of the box, not sure on the CRVs.
Those Honda five speed automatics are like manual gearboxes with clutch packs replacing the sychro hubs you find on manual cars. Not the best or most economical of things. I had a manual version identical to that one but changed it for a 2015 twin turbo 1.6 with the nine speed ZF automatic. It’s a second car and only done some 60,000 trouble-free miles so far. The ZF does drone a bit at certain speeds in certain gear ratios but always has done. The main issue I have with this and the next generation of this car is the noise from the wiper motor that, once you notice it, sound like a cat being crushed constantly under a wheel.
@@BigFecker No. While it will have a torque convertor this gearbox is a constant mesh type with clutch packs rather than the more common type with planetary gear sets with clutches and brakes. Different concepts entirely and the reason that Honda could not fit any more bulky gear sets in this transmission design. It would make the transaxle too wide for transverse mounting. Which is why they went for the compact nested planetary ZF or, depending on your locality, a CVT as the next generation.
I had an older HRV CVT auto. The box made a judder which got progressively worse over 8 years of owning it. Only happened when changing from first to second. Changed the gearbox oil once and it almost entirely went away... for 3 weeks. Then was as bad as before. As it was only first to second gear I drove it without issue for 8 years. Best £1,250 I ever spent.
hello James, I am sure that you shall sort out the Honda CRV gearbox (fault) and inform the new buyer. Keep being honest and producing such good service to your cucstomers!! Best wishes from Lincolnshire
From the CRV owners forum regarding the 40mph shudder- “I had the exact same problem on both my 2005 and 2006 Honda crv. First check the cv axels and make sure they are not worn but tight. If then are tight, I cured the problem by replacing the fluid in the differentials and flushing the transmission. It worked on both cars and now they drive smooth without the ripple vibration affect.”
will be interesting to see what Honda's warranty is on the fix they apply ? The approach you're taking seems entirely correct James. These cars are so popular and have such a following that the new owner with just have to take into account that this fix might need to be redone in the future.
It’s baffling though isn’t it, a software update that over time degrades? I’ve got a Mk2 Crv 2.2 and it’s bullet proof which only came with the manual option and now I’m glad. I will pursue this on the Honda owners forums of which I’m a member of three should be interesting.
Got exact same car, same year, spec and even colour. Had it 6yrs now and noticed it straight away after purchase, had gearbox oil done and all sorted. Noticed it again recently after 5yrs 60k so changed gearbox oil again and all sorted. The garage did say the oil was quite burnt and stunk out the workshop so suggest they just need regular changes. Otherwise it has been a brilliant car and ours has the cream leather and interior which just makes it feel a little more luxurious.
One the earlier volvos I think it's the Ford focus 1.6 engine, if yours is a box should be easy to find, I get them rebuilt, usually 300 quid with a years warranty.
With the Honda dude.. I'd get the oil flush and relearn done and advise it as a serviceable item rather than a fault, could well be down to miles and how it's driven as to when it comes back. Could see the camera shaking as the shudder occurred! 👍
If flywheel is quiet don't bother replacing it, you can check it for movement when box is off, same with clutch, if it's meaty don't replace it, may be recent anyway.
@@ChopsGarage yes bud if it's quiet when you put the clutch down it's OK, otherwise you'll be throwing a grand at it including box. Be nice if people p exd cars with no issues, we'd be rich then.
James the Honda jazz 2002-2007 automatic gear does the same thing but from a standing start. I changed the fluid then back to normal. 3k later same again. Manual gearbox jazz are fine. I own the manual jazz. My ones 2007 and family owned for 12 years.
Sounds like torque converter shutter. Plenty of cars do that. They make a product in the US called Lubeguard instant shutter fix that takes care of it.
Re Honda CR-V could be both gearbox software and engine hardware related. If engine filters and injectors clog up you may start feeling a small judder - this needs a bit more agressive driving to clear them up as well as filters changed. It should start pulling smoother from low revs. Gearbox is sturdy and if I am not mistaken used on 2.0 petrol as well, defo better then subsequent 9 speed ZF on 1.6 I-DTEC.
CRV. I had similar with my Toyota Land Cruiser. Scared the heck out of me thinking I’d have to have a new gearbox or torque. After recommended, I had a gearbox flush, and put 2 tubes of Lubeguard Dr Tranny Instant Shudder Fix. Absolute smooth as silk now. It usually lasts 30,000 miles but for the price of £10-15 per tube, another application, compared to a gearbox, No brainier.
This judder is quite common but the cure is simply a gear box oil change. It doesn’t need plugging in or reprogramming in our experience. It generally lasts a long time and is only about 3.5 litres of Honda ATF fluid and is a doddle to do
Check engine and gearbox mounts also, sounds strange, but alignment is important, change oil 3 times, had shifting issue with 2nd gen, these two issues sorted it.
The V40 diesels really are good. I got the V40 D3 (manual) on a 2018 plate. From fumes to full to fumes again, calculated 72.4mpg at a 64mph average extra-urban cycle. Pretty much exactly what Volvo claim.
If the Honda owner is elderly and in the early stage of dementia, he/she probably never noticed the problem, or didn't realise it was anything to worry about. They will have spent much of their motoring life in older cars from 50s, 60s, 70s, 80s and 90s, all of which are much less refined, and transmit mechanical noises into the cabin as a matter of course. My Triumph Acclaim certainly does. Nothing wrong with it, it's just the way it is. They'll have probably just assumed it was normal car sounds. It's also highly probable that they left the service book at the garage when the car was last serviced. A phone call might just turn it up. I wouldn't have thought there's anything sinister going on. Just old people stuff that happens to us all.
Honestly I doubt it if they would if they aren't car people and older I'd say they probably assumed thats how it was. I mean my mum who isn't even that old drove 60 miles at 80mph with a horrible missfire and a flashing check engine light she only notice something wasn't right when left it idling waiting for my dad to come out help with her bags which by that point the car had suffered pretty much a newclear meltdown
@@ChopsGarage They can collapse i had a ford that sounded the same as your volvo. Is there not an inspection port on the lower side of the gearbox/engine mounting to look inside and see whats going on without removing the gearbox ?
11:15 *Why is it called Blue Tooth ? Bluetooth is the Anglicised version of the Scandinavian Blåtand/Blåtann (or in Old Norse blátǫnn). It was the epithet of King Harald Bluetooth, who united the disparate Danish tribes into a single kingdom; Kardach chose the name to imply that Bluetooth similarly unites communication protocols - not a lot of people know that [Michael Caine] !*
Ref.the honda.Do the diesels also have the cam set ups the pertrols have( a third cam for each pair that locks up under oil pressure and changes the duration of valve timing) If so at about 40 mph there may be an issue with that locking set up that buggars the valve duration up for a couple of seconds.An oil change essential but it equally is part " supervised" by the ECU.If the issue keeps reoccuring then the cam system springs and or locking pins are worn.? If its the gearbox I know vauxhall Zafira autos had a similar box issue which needed a remap because of a hesitation in changing up at low load.
I think with the Honda, the fault is so slight it’s unlikely to be recorded by the ECU, but worth a scan. Sometimes the EGR is a bit sticky, can show up under very light throttle. When you get it back from Honda, I would give it a good motorway run and some good forced downshifts for the ECU to map again. An elderly owner wouldn’t drive it like that , just supermarket runs.
As it goes off when you change gear bud it's box, get a used one or have it recon, if it was dual mass it would be noisy when you put the clutch down, it's box bearings mate.
I have a 65 plate D4 Volvo V40 diesel , I have had 70 on a motorway run driving like my grandma. Combined 56mpg. Oh did I mention the D4 will give anything short of a 911 a run for it’s money mid range, 300lb ft of tourque!! People driving big German cars on the motorway have no idea what it is when it leaves them in the rear view mirror !
Had a 2012 CRV manual on about 85,000 miles and we got the shudder at around 40-50 mph which then went away at higher speeds. Took it to Honda and they diagnosed a fault with, I think, the CV joints failing. They fixed it. Common fault apparently.
My CRV manual 2.2 does the same thing at around 1400-1500 rpm on light throttle. It's a blocked or sticking egr. When you accelerate even lightly the fault goes away. Hope this helps.
I'm not sure if that was part-exed due to the gearbox, or if it's just something the previous driver got accustomed to so never bothered to do anything about since it doesn't stop the car moving. I used to have a car like that (held first gear, especially when cold) but couldn't afford to get it fixed. After a while it just stopped bothering me when it became obvious it wasn't going to get worse, but when I sold the car 30,000 miles later the buyer picked up on it as they weren't used to it. it's often hard to tell if an older car is just getting quirky but is basically solid, or if there's an important fault developing that needs attention. This is also true of many people. Especially men. You're right, the trade are seen as "fair game" by people trading vehicles in. I think it's because the perception is that the trade will be able to get it fixed cheaply because they are "in the game", which is true to some extent. There's also a degree of "out of sight, out of mind" - people don't care that the car is probably going to get sold to some poor schlub who'll then have it let them down or cost them a fortune. And then the trader has a headache, too, as their margin (and more) just got ate fixing it. But the seller won't see any of that because they'll be gliding along in their new motor. It isn't very nice, but then neither is ridiculously inflated repair costs. James seems to be a very good trader (god bless him!). The trade isn't the den of Jackals it was a couple of decades back (changing legislation and the internet saw to that) , but it still has it's sharks and people know that much but have no way if know if they're dealing with James (honest, takes pride in his work and his integrity) or a complete shark. It is just easy to trade in a broken motor and believe you sh*t on a shark than to pay thousands to fix it as the risk you just got bit to the tune of the cost of a holiday.
Very kind! And entirely correct on all parts! This Arthur Daily, they fix nothing on the cars rubbish is so outdated. The law now protects the customer to the point of insanity (saw a claim win for used car sold over 2 years prior recently!) and you simply would not get away with what people claim you can.
Earlier Honda CVT judder is caused by the start clutch mechanism. Why it only judders at lower speeds. Changing the fluid can help in some cases but if the start clutch is bad will need replacing at some point.
Hi James,I think the people in the comments saying your being a bit harsh on the chap because he's got dementia are being a bit harsh on you,if they can do a deal on new car ok then they can't be to bad and dementia comes in lots of different forms tbh so I'm not sure if they would have noticed it or not well never know but hopefully you solve it,the volvo should be good once sorted aswell🙂👍
I had the 2 v40l as a courtesy car from volvo, I was driving it for about a day but rekon from my calculations from topping up the tank and the averadge mileage shown that this is spot on, I think I was about 56mpg driven with reasonable enthusiasm and probably over reving since I'm used to autos normally this was mixed roads) For were I live I need the awd and a biggish car, hence my xc60 but I loved the v40 I had.
Would the old couple (guessing its an old couple if they have dementia) even have noticed the issue on the CRV? My experience over the last 30 years in repairs/servicing side of the business you pick things up on the road tests that most people don't even notice.
Remember it's a fault at low speeds and low revs, I know someone were I worked who had a crv with the exact same fault and it is something you notice. Cure is as described.
The crv transmission fluid should be done in the 70’s and and issues would be on the Heath check not service book so there would be no reason to bin the book 👍🏻. I have one and did the fluids last year…
No, did mine as it was due. Had the car coming on 5 years with no worries. Honda service and Heath check every year with my mechanic completing the MOT and W&T items…… prob jinks myself now tho..
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Probably someone got cold feet as the 100k miles came up on that Volvo. Not sure why people to that coz looking at that car it is just getting into its stride - just needs a minor fettle on the clutch release bearing?
James, Northern Ireland. My business is Dell Laptops. My advertised price is my selling price. End-off. Cash. I closed 3 shops in Bristol, Exeter and Portsmouth. Couldn't be annoyed. The volume of business now is exceptional. Something wrong? Take this one.
James i think that Volvo is more like 5 to £600 for clutch flywheel kit around £500 for gearbox and at least £300+ for labour clutch parts have gone up loads in the last year my VW 2.0 is now £650 was £500 12 months ago for clutch flywheel kit for me to DIY but local none franchise want £1400 to do whole job
Your right about clutch prices, when my work isuzu d max clutch went I actually stuck a uprated one in, the price difference was only about £250 more! The friction material used in the factory cluthes seems of very low quality in recent years.
Input shaft bearings probably on the Volvo, I'd get it rebuilt, then you know it's a goodun. A second hand box could be risky as problems with those Peugeot/Citroen gearboxes are not unheard of
@@roystonvehicles9129 Slightly dearer down my way, closer to 450-500 but does depend on the box. Very quick turnaround and he replaces everything as he sees fit, 12 month warranty as well for peace of mind. Customers often pipe up about the £100 box they've found on eBay photographed in a muddy puddle but I always respond "what if it's got the same problem?" Eventually they understand it's better to repair the existing one as long as there's no casing or other catastrophic damage!
Tbh, I'd think it rare that a customer would say anything about a p ex, I've worked at main dealers and theywould just come in, I wouldn't ask, they wouldn't say, as a new car salesman you'd not be interested in the p ex, just get it traded out and think nothing of it, I certainly just used to walk around with my glasses guide and make an offer.
@@ChopsGarage yes bud, most new car salesman don't want to be bothered with used cars (which doesn't help us) so your p ex old couple probably just brought it in without much thought, Garage aren't interested, so unfortunately your left with a problem, then it's your customer who wants it to be as new, all a bit bizarre really when you think about it.
My old man had a CRV with the gearbox judder, he had the oil change and emu flash. It started playing up again in under 5k miles, ended up getting shot of it.
Well he is dipping the clutch and noise goes. Gearbox still turning. I'd be looking at flywheel or rekeas3 bearing. Had a seat that sounded like that. The release bearing was eating through the pressure plate. Also had dual mass that sound that bad.
I had a 2016 v40 D2 was probably the worst car Iv ever owned used to burn oil at around 600 miles per 1/2 lt . Hard to get in and out off . Put me off having another Volvo ps love the Chanel
I have a crv 13 plate with exactly same issue I took a stab at getting the rear diff oil change but its still the same its a minor annoyance but lets know if there ia any remedy