Thanks for reply to be honest I already did the valve cover job and going to replace spark plugs and wires because I seen an arch when praying some water at night with car engine running. This is what happened my cat code came on and I tried the Lacquer thinner in gas tank to clean converter and directly after when getting on highway to do the 150 mile cleaning trip that's when I got stumbling only noticeable when at stop light with low idle. That was directly after putting the thinner in, Cat code still there but when I ran through the tank and added fuel to full ran through that then another full tank the stumbling was still there thought stumbling would go away because there could be some thinner left in tank. Was wondering if the lacquer thinner fouled up spark plugs that ended up throwing a po300, multiple cylinder misfires. That's when I found the defective wires which was weird it happened at same time or wires were bad and fouled spark plugs became more noticeable after the thinner. Wont do that again sheesh! Most comments seemed promising about the Lacquer Thinner. When I get in there to change plugs I wanted to retorque cause I've heard of the tube nuts can come loose. Not sure what specs I used before but do you think if it wasn't what you used then using different torque specs after sealant used previously dried it will cause a leak from seals after that point? Sorry to dump my issue , just seemed like the possible cause for my original question would be appropriate. Thanks again, MIke a current learning diyer
I'm glad your actually trying, most people don't. Tip: I also added a little rtv in the treads of the nuts for spark tubes. Diagnostics can be annoying but you'll be happy with the result
Thanks for posting video. Was looking at all other videos involving this job and the torque specs were all over the place for the valve cover. Some stated 12-13 a couple 17 and then 34 and 36. Whe the fudge is going on? Please don't take this wrong but where did you get the torque specs you used? Just want to get it right mines a 2000 le 4 banger. I've had a bad experience over torqueing and breaking a strug bolt because of wrong info. Thanks again
Hi, welcome to the channel. It's always good to double check torque specs. I've used the same torque specs on 2 different cars without issues. I think when I originally did it, I had a print out of torque specs but if I have a car that I plan on keeping awhile I download the repair manual from e manual, definitely a life saver going that route. Hopefully I helped
@@towcars5550 I used Permatex Ultra Black and followed the directions on the back of the package. I applied the ultra black in those 8 spots (4 on the passenger side and 4 on the driver's side), put cover on ( don't forget to put gasket on underside of valve cover), tightened nuts as much as I could with only my fingers and a socket, waited an hour, and then torqued the 4 nuts to 33 ft-lbs in like 4 steps until I finally reached the 33 ft-lbs. Start tightening from the inside out in steps. After you're done torquing the nuts, I had to wait 24 hours before starting the engine. Permatex Ultra Black needs 24 hours to fully cure in order to withstand oil. I did it last February and no leaks yet. That's how I did with what I used. If you use something other than Permatex Ultra Black, you need to follow their directions. Good luck and have fun.
