Hi, I'm George, I started this channel January 2023. I've been doing DIY since I was a child, and the aim of this channel is to share some of that passion.
Would not recommend this model. Get the TTB516NAL if you are after a nailgun. this has a wide hammer for the staples so I found when nailing something it would leave a 3-4mm mark. Not ideal. the 516 hammer should only be as wide as the nail head
This is an awesome video! Thanks in particular for explaining the failure modes of the pen testers. I’ve always felt they were potentially dangerous, but wasn’t sure how they could fail exactly. Also, you said two things about the NCVT that are slightly wrong. 1) They sense the electrostatic field, not the electromagnetic field. 2) They do in fact use your body as the return path, and if your boots are too insulating, as you said in another comment about the pen. But they will also fail to work if you’re too far away from the ground, like up on a ladder. I’ve been up on an 8-foot fiberglass ladder and found them to still work, but I’m not sure how much further I could get.
@@TheDiligentDIYer1759 Any comments on my observations about the height above ground limitation on the NCVT? I haven’t been able to test the statements I’ve read on the issue and am wondering if you’ve heard anyone talk on the subject.
Very good. Regarding the fused spur, is it acceptable to have switchable FCUs (with the load going to other appliances, say a 1A switched FCU for a light) as part of a fused spur? (Imagine the diagram at 6.05 with the first double socket on the fused spur as a switchable FCU going to a light.) Thank you.
Useful video! I have alot of DeWalt tools and thinking of getting a Nail gun for the first time as never used one before. Have looked at the Worx brad nailer but would you recommend this one for a first time user?
@@TheDiligentDIYer1759 It looks like it is and I do like all the DeWalt stuff. I would be using it more occasionally for DIY and occasional pro jobs but would rather pay more for something that lasts. What are your thoughts on the Worx brad nailer?
Very useful video, but my OLED tv only draws 85 watts according to my power meter and my fridge freezer very little more . My Dishwasher has a hot feed and the washer is set to cold wash . Lighting is LED's. so the only large consumers of power are the shower 8KW (4KW Eco setting) , the oven 3KW and the induction hob 5/6 KW ? These all have dedicated circuits , so are rings really out dated , and should be replaced with individual circuits.? I can foresee that soon power requirements on outlets will be even lower.
Spot-on advice. Fixed a few leaking olive joints that could not be cut off this way. Some redundancy on new compression fittings with ptfe tape in my opinion also does not hurt.
The thumbnail s horrible click bait and really misleading for the uniformed. I used to have respect for your videos, but this is pure drivel looking for views.
I’m a tile bathroom guy, he used the wrong screws. Those screws are going to act as an anode cathode and cause rust behind tile, which will cause tiles to crack as rust on his “stainless steel” screws develops. Water hardness is going to accelerate the issue. He needed polyurethane end caps on his nails, this shower is going to fail in 2 years and the tiles are going to crack then cave in. Otherwise nice job.
All the screws are covered with tanking membrane anyway, so very unlikely they’ll ever get wet. Why do you put stainless steel screws in quotation marks haha, do you not believe they are stainless steel? Salty water with a water softener would be more of a rust concern than hard water. My electrochemical knowledge is only what I recall from my A levels, but I would have thought the wood studs would be a sufficient insulator to stop any flow of electrons, so I’m not worried. I’ll be very disappointed if this shower only lasts two years!
@@TheDiligentDIYer1759 yes, wood is a impedance, but the flow of electrons in humidity changes the impedance and acts as conduit for flow of electrons. Membrane doesn’t help, it traps the moisture and accelerates the process, I made original post with assumption you put the membrane on which is why it accelerates it as it never dries. Polyurethane coated screws are the way to go, stainless steel doesn’t mean anything. They will rust especially when acting as an anode and cathode with the alkalinity of the adhesives used. You have highly negative charges on the boards which is why you don’t want any moisture on stainless steel. It’s going to corrode in that environment.
@@TheDiligentDIYer1759The tiles will be fine. Once you add tanking tape and membrane there is no water going anywhere. It makes you wonder how all these old houses are still standing when they didn’t use polyurethane cathode anode screws. 😂
Completely agree with you, insulated backer board is my preference. I like the B&Q ‘q board’ as it comes in 2400 x 600 sheets as opposed to some which are only 1200x 600
Just had a boiler changed so need to change my shower,..(It was LP and now HP),..The boilers in the loft as is the control box for the shower,..I believe i will need to find the hot and cold supply from the boiler then tee into the plastic pipes,...I'm wondering about the longevity of speedfit,...Have to admit i did not use inserts with the first shower and they have been perfect for a good 12 years or so now!
The seals are rated for 50 years if installed correctly, which does include the insert. That should out live most of us! Personally if I can use copper and solder, I will, but if not then pex is perfectly suitable. Thanks for watching!
Depends on the issue really, if you’ve got hot water everywhere else, then there’s something wrong with the shower, probably the cartridge. If you’ve got no hot water anywhere, then it’s probably the cylinder
I realise this is an old video now, but I need some advice. I live in France and I employed a plumber to change the copper to plastic, as the copper is old and the joints are constantly failing. The plumber recommended multilayer pipe ie plastic with an aluminum liner and push fit fittings. He's left me with the job unfinished and as it seems impossible to find a reliable plumber around here, I'm considered finishing myself. Most of the videos Ive found are just plastic to copper, but I havent found anything for multilayer to copper. Do you know if I need any specific tools for this? As the pipe is aluminium lined, will I still need inserts?
I’m not sure why plastic would need an aluminium liner, seems odd. Standard pex is double walled anyway. Sorry i can’t help, best to speak to someone french! Thanks for watching!
A few points; 1) your cylinder thermostat should really not be set lower than about 60C to prevent Legionella disease forming. 2) That combi valve is also a pressure reducing valve hence the pressure being a lot lower the other side of it. 3) The potable expansion vessel has a balloon in it, not a diaphragm as drinking water should not come into contact with the inner metal surface.
Presumably you mean a 20ah car battery? The connectors i showed here are for AC 230v, i think you need to look at something designed for a car battery. Thanks for watching
@@TheDiligentDIYer1759 I am on about 48v20am e bike battery can i use a 30amp connecter to connect the motor to the controller the motor is 1000w thanks for your reply
That could have been the expanding foam that destroyed that cable as the normal expanding foam with eat away at the insulation over time, fire rated foam though is fine to use
You should use adhesive lined heatshrink. Otherwise moisture will work it's way in. This has to be a maintenance free joint as it will be in an inaccessible location. Or some sort of gel filled crimp connector, but then I guess space is limited. I am not an electrician.
Good idea, you think that would work with heating fuel, like house oil, passing the filter 1/4 line. I'm thinking the pro before me over tightened the seal. Over time could the drip stop? Unravel next time I get to see my dad. We'll investigate with more information. Working with the Teflon Tap for 10+ years welder repair shop, I could apply the same principal to house heating oil connections. Never thought about the Bud (Olive) to seal.
Effectively yes, but it’s on resistance rather than continuity. So it will show off the scale resistance where there’s no continuity, and something lower when there is some. The video in end screen goes through how I identified the fault. Thanks for watching!
@@TheDiligentDIYer1759 Thanks for the reply. The comment was a little tong in cheek. I do find in annoying that the Wago 221Compact Series does not have an inline version. would have been great here.
Back in the days before youtube repairs like this would just have been strip block and tape not always tape either lol,videos like yours really help the diyer do the job properly,thanks for the video
Not just dust, I buy the expensive multi-tool blades. They are OK on softwood, but anything else, they are blunt in no time. Especially with the metal blades on metal.
That 360 looks great, just can't justify 150 quid for DIY use. I guess I'll stick to the cheapo Amazon one plus some rechargeable batteries. £30 all in will do most jobs just fine.
You can go as low as £60 for a 360 laser, I’m not sure how good they are, but there’s a few on Amazon that look okay. Fully appreciate they are still expensive though, depends on your needs really. Thank you for watching!
