Great content. I assume the voltage setting is 4.2 x the number of cells the drone takes (6s, 4s, etc.). Would the 0.40 amp setting be enough for any FPV drone?
Thanks! Not necessarily 4.2v. You don’t need to simulated a fully charged battery. In fact I normally use 16v for most of my tests despite I can be working with 6S drones. The current is more important. You can see in the video I used 0.5A and it was enough to hear the start beeps but it got into current protection mode. That happened with this drone which draws a lot of current. If I were to test the motors for example that 0.5 won’t be enough. So the answer is: it depends on the drone. I normally start with something between 0.4 if it’s a small drone, or 0.7 if it’s a 5”, but to test motors I have to go normally over 1amp.
Thanks for sharing! I would recommend looking at what CiottiFPV has to say regarding HDZero and Walksnail for these tiny drones. For the 65mm frames, it seems they just get too heavy with a HD system while the 75mm and up is a good platform. That said, I'm just too new to give my own opinion on this topic. The tiny whoops are a lot of fun and happy to see more people getting into flying them :) Greatings from Norway. 👋
Thanks! Walksnail is a bit too heavy for these drones. It’s because of this I’m selling again analog in my shop, but just in tinywhoops. Ciotti knows his things but it’s difficult to find his knowledge in a condense form. His videos are all like 2 hrs long 😂.
@@NordFPV It is indeed. I'm having problems affording all the digital stuff. Just too expensive. So, I personally will stick to analog. Also, analog is still good enough and a good entry level I think. :) Oh yeah, that's the biggest drawback with his channel. Although, some of his videos do have timestamps. I also see people add timestamps in the comments. But yeah, still need to look for it in an nontraditional way.
A very good selection. I would add getting isopropanol and a toothbrush for cleaning, since I end up doing that a lot, not only of solder joints but general cleaning.
A good soldering wire is important as well. I don’t know how many times I have helped people with soldering problems and a good soldering wire did magic for them.
I build and repair quads, and i also enjoy repairing electronics in general. Thermal camera, psu, air station, good and powerful solder station, stereoscope 10x, etc, all good tools to have
I use a cheap digital microscope from Ali and it's really good for the basic tasks I need to do. Yes, a stereoscope is better, but also a lot bigger, heavier and more expensive, and not needed for basic soldering and troubleshooting.
I’ve heard and seen a few reviews on a couple other soldering irons which looks better than the hakko, but I think the important part is to go over the threshold of “cheap” soldering station. I love my hakko, no need for me to change it. It really was a game changer.
I have a couple of problems with this dryer that keeps me from buying it and they are the price, how cheaply made it is and the fact that they should have used textured rubber for the rollers to keep them from skipping and I do wish that they used magnets in the base to hold on the lid and I don't like the cheap display, it scratches easily and bubbles appear like on a poorly tinted window. I think i will just get the Sunlu S4
The sunlu S4 definitely has a more polish look. I made another video where I presented the S4. But the sunlu is huge!! You really need to have space for it. Do you have enough space?
@NordFPV I live in a 1967 city transit bus converted into a RV and I plan on building a Qidi Tech Q1 pro and the drier into a custom cabinet. I spend a lot of time in cold weather
Hey NordFPV, thanks for this nice video! i just bought the same like yours, ELRS 2.4G version, but is it compatible to my Dji controller 2? I can't seem to make it work. After installing the 03 unit from my pavo pico to the Darskstar, i set it to to the right Ports plus Serial(via UART) and SBUS. But until now it's not responding to any stick movement. Do you have any suggestion? really appreaciate it a lot.
Hi. Thanks. Normally the missing part is the SBUS and GND cables from the O3 to the AiO. Do you have them? The ELRS version has a stripped down harness missing those 2 cables. If you do have them, check the port configuration and check that the SBUS is actually connected to the right port.
@@juancgallardo ok so it gets complicated, haha i do not know a single thing about soldering, guess i need to go to any electronic shop here and get it done. thanks though!
You may want to try just to add the cables to the harness. Check if someone has the cables already crimped and get them from them. That will be a very easy way to fix it IF you have those cables. Otherwise I will recommend you to start learning to solder, you will do it a bit in this hobby and it will get expensive quick if every time you need to solder you go to some service.
Yeah. At the end I had to read the manual, and even after reading it I had troubles. A good UI should be self explanatory and shouldn’t need you to read a manual.
Which lens protector is the newer version? On 'printables' website the one with the more recent date (December 23) is bigger and the older (July 23) is smaller... Which do you recommend as best?
@@neilfpv cool. I like this very much, adn I don't think I need anything beyond what this offers. It's a shame they don't produce it anymore, but I'm sure someone should have some stock with it somewhere if you look.
The Pavo is more modern and the prop guards are thinner and with a different shape. Is it quieter? I’m not sure. It’s definitely a different pitch. Durability looks like Pavo can win too.
@@NordFPVIt seemed to me that Pavo 25 v2 is more powerful than cinelog 25 and for indoor flights, for example, for shooting commercial videos, cinelog 25 is more suitable. how do you think?
@@NordFPVyes, I have pavo25 v2. I tried to run it in an apartment. with smooth minimum throttle it is already very nimble. very difficult to deal with indoors. So I wanted to ask you: is it worth switching to cinelog25 for such purposes?
@@user-mn3pu2zq2h I don't think so. They are quite similar. They are for indoor, but not a small apartment indoor size. If you want to fly in your apartment you may want to look into tinywhoops.
Hi. Which TPU part? I have everything I design in my printables profile. Just search for Nordfpv at printables.com. But if it’s a part that GEPRC sells, you may have to search for equivalents.
I use the Sunlu S1 and the first thing I realised is that the humidity from drying out the filament wasn't going anywhere, so as soon as the heating goes off, the filament would re-absorb it. What I do now is place a freezer block on the top of the lid (on the outside) and that causes the condensation to collect on the under-side of the plastic. Then every hour or so I just wipe off the moisture. After a while you start to notice a decline the amount of water collecting.
Thank you for the video. It seems like you had a lot of fun implementing it. I went a simple way and I just got a computer turbine blower as JB advised. BTW, I believe that the key factor for a noise is a fan itself. You could try a more quiet fan.
I think you are expected to download it before to your phone. I actually don’t like to do firmware upgrades from the phone (or wirelessly). I connect it to the computer for that. Otherwise almost everything else from the phone.
Why did you not compare it to the sunlu s4 ? As that is the most current solution available. Seems like you picked the competitors so you can make this weird never heard of dryer looks like something
Hello. I have not have the chance to test a Sunlu S4, that would be the main reason why I didn't mention it. Even if I had the chance to test the S4, that is a 4 spool beast, not sure it will be comparable to this. I have been lucky to have bought all those dryers that you can see in my RU-vid channel, and of course, I use the experience of using them as my base to compare this "weird never heard of" dryer :D .
@@NordFPV your taking dryers that dont compare to your unknown dryer and compare it. If you had taken a SunluS4 you found out your solution is janky and over priced. Just like the two spool dryer you dont have to use all 4 spots..
@@TheOneAndOnlySatan Kid it's evident you're coping hard. Sunlu temp control is all over the place and you have to hack and crack the box to fit a 3kg spool in it and even then it wont roll good because the roller wont have bushings. It's a big nasty box with cheapo fans and a peltier element. I'd rather get a food dehydrator.
Hey, thanks for the video! Any recommendation for soldering wire? If I understand correctly in Europe is only available the lead-free one, but I am not sure about what to buy 😅
Ciao Matteo. There are some regulations around the soldering wire, but if you look closely, and specially in Germany and Italy, you can find lead one. For what we do it won’t be a problem. We solder very little amounts. 60/40 is what you want for easy soldering and nice and shinny solder points.
Yes, that should work, as it will work with many other drones. My concern/idea is to find BNF drones with walksnail, mainly so new FPV pilots can get their hands on Walksnail devices without having to do much work, work they may not be ready to do, or yet trained to do.
This is a good option then. As I said, I liked it quite some. The problem is just to find it in stock. You have also the flywoo 2S, which is not 100% a freestyle drone, but quite some ripper and very good flyer. I have a review in the channel for it if you are interested.
Regarding your flight time- did you use the included betafpv charger only? As far as I've understood it, the charger charges at 1A so about 2C for the 550 mAh batteries. I've got the whoopstor charger for my 330 mah batteries and my flight time has gotten up significantly. Maybe something worth to consider :)
Thanks for the tip. I actually used both, the included charger and an external charger with a vifly board. I was missing to charge to HV on my vifly board but I’m still not getting the times other are getting.
Hey I have a question aubout the FC/ESC. You sad you couldn’t find a name of it or something. Is it possible to buy a new one if the one you have will break?
Hi. I couldn't find the name, but someone on the comments had it right. Yes, you can buy it as a spare, on their website, and you can find it in other places. Also, you don't always need to have exactly the same AIO if you ever have the problem.
Just use radiomaster 2s 5000mah li ion. Just 15usd buy 2 😂. Diy a xt30 to barrel connector cable. You got double capacity than 2s fatshark standard battery (18650 li ion).
I had problem with motorshafts breaking 3 times, switched to T-motor and and tune from betaflight. I like the the concept with topmounted battery. Thats all. I much prefere the Flywoo I bought from you.
I was very tempted to do a comparison with the flywoo 2S drone. I even took some videos of both together thinking I would compare them, but in the end, after flying many times this drone, I kind of liked better the darwinfpv drone. Was your TinyApe analog or walksnail? Did you buy it directly from them? How long did it take?
@@NordFPV it took 3-4 weeks for for both the analog and walksnail models, i did like it after adding toothpick tune from betaflight. But i think the flywoo firefly 2s is more to my likeing, more nimble I thnk and allmost the same flight time as the tiny ape.
Suppose that company was not first, as the initial idea of whoop was to utilize Bernulli effect that came actually from tiniwhoops .. at least it what I have found in google ..
yeah, you know, there's a lot of "I say this, you say that" in China. Who knows who was actually the first one. The reality is that in China there's no respect for IP.