Hola. Unfortunately I haven’t test it. But I doubt most people feels the difference between different configurations. You have to be an extremely good pilot to feel them. I know I don’t do it myself and I have been flying for several years and have tested many drones.

You are welcome

you can just buy these now

​@@charlie9074 making it is half the fun 😊

Thanks!

Hi. Thanks. What kind of suggestions? It works out of the box. Supports are no as complicated to remove as other filaments. You can play with the Z distance depending what you are printing

Yes. But it has some kind of special Communication with the DJI equipment and the cable just work between DJI.

​@@NordFPV ok so if I plug the "vintage telephone cord" barrel to usbc to a pd powerbank it should self regulate and work fine?

@@samuelevinti unfortunately not because your powerbank is not DJI. A DJI cable works only with DJI batteries.

Hi. They are compatible as long as you buy the right versions. Like a ELRS radio and a ELRS drone. About goggles, do a good research. There are too many. I still use my old fatshark HDO2, but I think there are better options these days.

@@NordFPV ok thanks for replying, ill just do a research for a goggles.

This build is quite tight. And you should put the capacitor on the back next to the power pads. Use a small one, and make your best effort to push it in without breaking anything else.

Good tip. Thanks

I sell it in my shop www.nordfpv.com

Great!

Good one lol

Thanks! Not necessarily 4.2v. You don’t need to simulated a fully charged battery. In fact I normally use 16v for most of my tests despite I can be working with 6S drones. The current is more important. You can see in the video I used 0.5A and it was enough to hear the start beeps but it got into current protection mode. That happened with this drone which draws a lot of current. If I were to test the motors for example that 0.5 won’t be enough. So the answer is: it depends on the drone. I normally start with something between 0.4 if it’s a small drone, or 0.7 if it’s a 5”, but to test motors I have to go normally over 1amp.

@@NordFPV Thanks for the information!

Thanks! Walksnail is a bit too heavy for these drones. It’s because of this I’m selling again analog in my shop, but just in tinywhoops. Ciotti knows his things but it’s difficult to find his knowledge in a condense form. His videos are all like 2 hrs long 😂.

@@NordFPV It is indeed. I'm having problems affording all the digital stuff. Just too expensive. So, I personally will stick to analog. Also, analog is still good enough and a good entry level I think. :) Oh yeah, that's the biggest drawback with his channel. Although, some of his videos do have timestamps. I also see people add timestamps in the comments. But yeah, still need to look for it in an nontraditional way.

Yeah. I missed that. Good catch!

Where do you normally get it?

A good soldering wire is important as well. I don’t know how many times I have helped people with soldering problems and a good soldering wire did magic for them.

@@NordFPV Amazon

Oh the magnifier… yeah… I thought it was only me and my bad eyes 😂

@@NordFPV and mine! 100%

I use a cheap digital microscope from Ali and it's really good for the basic tasks I need to do. Yes, a stereoscope is better, but also a lot bigger, heavier and more expensive, and not needed for basic soldering and troubleshooting.

​@@lazyhominid it seems like a good idea, actually.

I’ve heard and seen a few reviews on a couple other soldering irons which looks better than the hakko, but I think the important part is to go over the threshold of “cheap” soldering station. I love my hakko, no need for me to change it. It really was a game changer.

Just use a no clean flux :)

I do have one in my toolbox. But I wouldn’t call it one of my favorites. I actually use it less than what I should.

The sunlu S4 definitely has a more polish look. I made another video where I presented the S4. But the sunlu is huge!! You really need to have space for it. Do you have enough space?

​@NordFPV I live in a 1967 city transit bus converted into a RV and I plan on building a Qidi Tech Q1 pro and the drier into a custom cabinet. I spend a lot of time in cold weather

Something “no brand” I had laying around, and I bought in my local electronics store for a few dollars. Works really well though.

@@NordFPV Is it wide angle?

@@dog2bert yes

Hi. Thanks. Normally the missing part is the SBUS and GND cables from the O3 to the AiO. Do you have them? The ELRS version has a stripped down harness missing those 2 cables. If you do have them, check the port configuration and check that the SBUS is actually connected to the right port.

@@NordFPV you're right, there's only 4 cables 2 are missing. But, can i still make it too work? do you have any suggestions how?

Of course. You just need to install those 2 missing cables. Either in the harness or soldering outside.

@@juancgallardo ok so it gets complicated, haha i do not know a single thing about soldering, guess i need to go to any electronic shop here and get it done. thanks though!

You may want to try just to add the cables to the harness. Check if someone has the cables already crimped and get them from them. That will be a very easy way to fix it IF you have those cables. Otherwise I will recommend you to start learning to solder, you will do it a bit in this hobby and it will get expensive quick if every time you need to solder you go to some service.

I didn’t use it because it’s very tight in space and since it’s a 4S I risk it. It’s not ideal, and I will recommend you to have one.

@@NordFPV thank you very much for your answer

Yeah. At the end I had to read the manual, and even after reading it I had troubles. A good UI should be self explanatory and shouldn’t need you to read a manual.

@@NordFPV that is right.

The smaller is the best one in my opinion. Remember to use TPU to print it, 95A or 98A preferably.

@@NordFPV Definitely! Thank you very much for confirming.

Thank you for watching!

QuadGuard BP X1. It’s an old bag, I don’t think they produce it anymore. Small, but works perfectly for what I used it.

@@NordFPV I like the looks of it. The one I have is big and is hard on my back. I'll keep looking. Thank you.

@@neilfpv cool. I like this very much, adn I don't think I need anything beyond what this offers. It's a shame they don't produce it anymore, but I'm sure someone should have some stock with it somewhere if you look.

The Pavo is more modern and the prop guards are thinner and with a different shape. Is it quieter? I’m not sure. It’s definitely a different pitch. Durability looks like Pavo can win too.

​@@NordFPVIt seemed to me that Pavo 25 v2 is more powerful than cinelog 25 and for indoor flights, for example, for shooting commercial videos, cinelog 25 is more suitable. how do you think?

@@user-mn3pu2zq2h Yes, I agree with you. Still, if you own a Pavo25 V2 and you want to do some indoor shooting with it, it should work pretty well.

​​@@NordFPVyes, I have pavo25 v2. I tried to run it in an apartment. with smooth minimum throttle it is already very nimble. very difficult to deal with indoors. So I wanted to ask you: is it worth switching to cinelog25 for such purposes?

@@user-mn3pu2zq2h I don't think so. They are quite similar. They are for indoor, but not a small apartment indoor size. If you want to fly in your apartment you may want to look into tinywhoops.

It’s a valid option. I just find that original antenna annoying. And this mod has worked wonderfully for me since I did it. I’m very happy with it.

Hi. Which TPU part? I have everything I design in my printables profile. Just search for Nordfpv at printables.com. But if it’s a part that GEPRC sells, you may have to search for equivalents.

That’s unfortunate.

That sounds like a lot of work. Why not opening a hole or keeping the lid a couple of mm open?

Hello. I recently started to test some new HS TPU. In thinking about doing another video on this when I have enough data.

Yeah. I think you are right. I’m doing a second prototype to make this wireless and got a different fan. Much quieter, also less powerful.

I think you are expected to download it before to your phone. I actually don’t like to do firmware upgrades from the phone (or wirelessly). I connect it to the computer for that. Otherwise almost everything else from the phone.

I’m glad I could help.

Thank you!

Thanks. Yes, the best is to do projects with what you have laying around.

Hello. I have not have the chance to test a Sunlu S4, that would be the main reason why I didn't mention it. Even if I had the chance to test the S4, that is a 4 spool beast, not sure it will be comparable to this. I have been lucky to have bought all those dryers that you can see in my RU-vid channel, and of course, I use the experience of using them as my base to compare this "weird never heard of" dryer :D .

@@NordFPV your taking dryers that dont compare to your unknown dryer and compare it. If you had taken a SunluS4 you found out your solution is janky and over priced. Just like the two spool dryer you dont have to use all 4 spots..

@@TheOneAndOnlySatan Eibos is superior to Sunlu s4

@@Kurnazify your a prime example what filament fumes can do to ones mind.

@@TheOneAndOnlySatan Kid it's evident you're coping hard. Sunlu temp control is all over the place and you have to hack and crack the box to fit a 3kg spool in it and even then it wont roll good because the roller wont have bushings. It's a big nasty box with cheapo fans and a peltier element. I'd rather get a food dehydrator.

Ciao Matteo. There are some regulations around the soldering wire, but if you look closely, and specially in Germany and Italy, you can find lead one. For what we do it won’t be a problem. We solder very little amounts. 60/40 is what you want for easy soldering and nice and shinny solder points.

I used 28AWG, but whatever you find small enough is ok, the amount of current you are going to be used are minimal.

@@NordFPV Thank you for your reply)

Hi James. Thank you for your kind words.

Yes. I believe it fits.

Gracias 🙏