Bicycle Tool and Tech News (& Entertainment) focused on bringing the latest information to bicycle mechanics before they need it! Also home of the Bike Tool Finder, a searchable database of thousands of bicycle-specific tools accessible via membership to neutralsupport.net.
I don't understand why I just discover your channel just right now. I love bikes, I love tools, I love to learn and understand. Your channel is amazing. It's fun, clear, interesting (would even say fascinating). if only all teachers in the world had these qualities... The dark side of that is now I am aware that there's not only Park Tool, Enduro Bearing, Abbey, Wheel Manufacturing... so many great tools waaaaaay too expensive for my garage. But I want them all, they are too beautiful and well made... Do I need two kidneys 🤔
Great video. :) My thinking out loud: Fact 1: No shop in my city has a torque wrench as far as I know (except one, where I gave them that as a gift for opening - LOL). Fact 2: I've worked for decades without a torque wrench. And still I would not recommend working without one, especially on modern light stuff (not to mention carbon) - and definitely not as a pro mechanic (liability risks in case of any problems). Relja
Love your level of detail and subscribed. I love the overview, I spent like 2 hours trying to compare spoke wrenches with image alone and people liking the only tool they own. I am very poor, so I cant afford buy tons of wrenches. I building wheel at home, I work part time as bike mechanic at the city keeping bicycles alive so they transport around. We have the park tools one at work with wheel stand. It is better then all size fit round chrome circle one. I was mostly look at spokey design.
Thanks! If you are working on lower-end bikes or bikes left outside, 3 sided wrenches like the Park will fit more spoke nipples with various levels of rust etc (that's also why they slip and round off spoke nipples too). In Sweden for four sided, the Spokey style is super easy to get and they've reinforced the bottom now (I think maybe Cyclus is the one...) so they fit super tight. That's not to say Monolith can't ship you some, but probably an extra $25USD or so on top of the cost for the import and extra shipping. Lots of good choices on the market!
So, as a maintenance QC Inspector for a U.S. Major Airline of 24 yrs, one of our jobs in QC is to re-calibrate and certify all of the Torque Wrenches issued to the mechanics, for work on our Aircraft, by our Tool room. Proper Torquing IS a big deal, is Required to be done In Accordance With the manufacturer's specs and is Required to be witnessed by a QC Inspector, for a specified group of maintenance items called out by the FAA. All U.S. Carriers use this same list of Required Inspection Items (the RII list). This is a good subject to know a bit about, especially when working on such specialized hardware and equipment as Bicycle's have become. That said, some items are too delicate to put a Torque Wrench to, as damage will occur. You did well here in explaining & warning of the problems & issues caused by Over-Torquing & Under-Torquing as well as the mechanics behind how Torque Wrenches work, BUT, you never explained what Torquing a screw actually does. Torquing a screw essentially has the same effect as adding a Locking Washer under the head of the screw, or adding Loctite to the screw threads with metal-on-metal screws. Torquing a screw actually Stretches the screw within a fixed thread pitch which causes physical binding between the screw & the base metal threads or nut. This serves to lock the screw in place. Torquing screws is simply a method of binding screws to their threaded base metal or nut. That said, there is a narrow limit to stretching a screw before it reaches its "elastic limit". Often the base material is too soft or not strong enough to allow a screw to stretch (be torqued). Just something to be aware of, more Torque isn't better. Torquing a hardened steel screw into soft aluminum, plastic or some composite material will usually damage the threads of the base material. Only Torque what is called for, meaning you're dependent on your calibrated elbow for the softer materials. For what it's worth, Beam type Torque Wrenches are almost Always the most accurate, because of their simplicity. That's followed by "click" types which are easily damaged if used to loosen stuck or over-torqued screws. Torque Wrenches should never be used as a substitute for a Ratchet Wrench or simple wrench, that's what usually causes the calibration to change. Since Torque requirements for bicycles tend to be on the "low" side, you're far better off w/ a "fine" ratchet on your Click type Torque Wrench vs a coarse rachet. Usually the cheaper Click type torque Wrenches will be a fairly coarse type ratchet, so look for that. The finer the Ratchet on a Click type, the easier to work in a tight spot. The "slip" type of Torque Wrenches are the least accurate, so get a good name brand if you can, it'll be the most accurate. In the aviation world, it's sometimes required to measure the "running Torque" of a bolt or screw, iow, the amount of resistance or friction on the bolt shank before it's begun to tighten. You add the running torque to the specified finish Torque setting for an accurate actual Torque. So, if a screw or bolt has a lot of resistance while rotating before it's reached its tightening phase, it's possible to under-torque that screw if you go the min Torque setting.
Love the channel and all the great bike shop business content! Unfortunately, you absolutely can over-torque bolts with those slip-type torque wrenches. When they click, they apply an instantaneous force similar to how the hammer of an impact wrench works. Clicking it once is a non-issue, but continuing to click them will over-torque a bolt really fast.
I currently have two of their tools: Their impactless BB puller (perfect for Shimano's PressFit BBs) and disc truing tool (basically a lighter Park Tool DT-2) I have no idea if I'll ever buy their chain breaker since I already have one from Topeak. Not only can theirs peen Campagnolo chain pins, unlike almost all chain breakers in the market, the handle doubles as a 1/4-inch hex drive tool bit handle. This is basically more than one tool in one product!
They make some cool stuff! I'm always weighing whether a tool is an improvement to what I have or if I just want it 😂 I don't think I've used the Topeak tool myself...yet. I'll have to find one sometime.
@@NeutralSupportNews The Topeak All Speeds Chain Tool I have is a really good universal budget-friendly option. It can also peen Campagnolo chain connecting pins (I got to do this when I was building a bike with a Campagnolo groupset in a shop I used to work in, the shop's only chain breaker that can peen such pins has already been decommissioned, making me the only person in the shop capable of doing so) and comes with a chain hook & spare plunger pin inside the handle. Works up to 12-speed chains.
I'm too chicken to trust myself that the click type would be calibrated correctly when I go to use it, so I bought both of the Park Tool beam type. Pretty foolproof, even for this fool.
Love the channel :). The TorqKey (brand name can be seen on the shaft) preset torque wrenches like the Giant you showed and variations of it like Ritchey, Prestacycle, Trek, Sram, etc. are clic type wich you can overtorque :(. The Bike Sauce chanel as a nice vid about it ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-RNtWda7Ru2I.htmlPrestacyclePrestacycle
This one is a keeper! Best top level overview of common fasteners and proper torque tools ever and I am going to refer a lot of people to it. This was also the best woken and visual explanation of each of the most common tools a bike mechanic will encounter. Your discussion on proper storage of each type was essential and something very rarely addressed. A good follow on would be to cover electronic strain gauge based torque sensors and their benefits, but that is a bit OCD for bike wrenching. A deeper dive into the topic of how it is the “load path” and initial installation conditions that determine the optimum torque, not solely the bolt. It is the stress distribution of the load path that torque is being used as a proxy. This proxy assumes that all elements in the load path meet their relevant material specifications, correct initial conditions the proxy was based on, and that tool and technique are valid. Miss one of these (and maybe some I overlooked) and the connection is no longer fit for purpose.
That one is also a "slip" type (it's shaped like a click type but has a slip mechanism in the head) and you are 100% right it is SWEET! Solves the issue of higher torque slip type availability.
And today we're gonna torque about.... On a serious note I got my torque wrenches hanging right next to my hex and torx tools right behind my bike stand. There's no point for me NOT to use it. However, I did make an exception recently when I was going to remove tokens from my Fox fork and nobody in my country had a 32mm chamferless 3/8" socket which is why I opted for a 32mm chamferless 1/2" instead and just use a normal ratchet wrench for dismount and mounting. Some workshops told me they never used a torque wrench for it, so I thought to myself that it's probably fine. Just snug it up and no heavy force, and if there's no airleak then it should be golden.
Definitely not all-inclusive or it would have to be an hour of just bolts 😬 I'll leave the history of hex heads on old timey quill stems, seat clamps, and other bands for another day.
I so enjoy your wonderful videos. It's amazing that you have the ability to take the boring subject of torque and make it interesting and informative. BTW, I have a few acquaintances who volunteer at the Sacramento Bike Kitchen. Is there a backstory on how you came upon Bike Kitchen t-shirt?
Thank you! Almost every video, I wonder if I'm the only one who will think it was interesting 😂 I have SBK on my list as a rad place to visit when I am over that way! I got a super kind care package from a subscriber with some SBK swag a while back - I love what they do! So I advertise whenever possible.
@@NeutralSupportNews you satisfy our hunger for nerdy detail so much better than all the channels that just skim the surface. If you find it interesting, I think that most of your subscribers will too.
Fixed torque keys are my favorite. I use my 5nm, and 6nm torque keys constantly building bikes, and doing service. I use my Park click type wrenches for higher torque values.
Loved the history lesson, did not know about the robertson in the model T getting a jump start. Phillips(not jis) is designed to strip the head before breaking the bolt or parent material.
Great tutorial and overview. You reminded me of something that I've long wondered, which is why click torque wrenches specify storage at the minimum setting, not zero. My guess is that dialing it to zero could leave space between the parts, allowing corrosion to form more easily than if they were actually in contact. Do you, or any viewers here, know if that's it?
Bingo! When you unload a torque wrench all the way, there is room for the internal pieces to shift. When you tension the spring again, the pieces may have repositioned fractionally and that is what can cause the torque value to change. On the other hand, leaving the tension high wears out the spring.
It's actually all about the phenomenon called creep. When a material is under tension, that material wants to rid itself of the load, and gradually, over time it will. The calibration on a clicker torque is so precise that any appreciable load will change the calibration rather quickly. It's been my understanding that going past the lowest setting puts a negative load on the spring, therefore inducing creep. I could be wrong, but that's the way I understand it.
@@user-xd3sf5fp6u I'm not sure the spring is actually anchored in a way that it could be stretched when you adjust down too far, versus just becoming loose and rattling around.
Thanks for the video. I doubt you can patent cable pull ratios. Given that, I'm surprised that someone like Microshift doesn't produce a line of shifters that are easily cable pull and speed adjustable by a mechanic or a reasonably competent end user. I know you can do this somewhat easily with SRAM brifters. I'd love to see Shimano get screwed like this as I can't conceive of a good engineering reason to change the cable pull ratios.
Considering all of the aftermarket shifters, it certainly seems like you can't. It would be cool to have a more elegant solution than a Jtek or Tanpan to mix and match shifters with other derailleurs. Also a fun engineering problem 🤔
@@NeutralSupportNews I don't think so. Ratio Technology sells some conversation kits for SRAM. Btw, it seems like cues is running on 1.3 pul ratio. I think that's the same as SRAM exact actuation shifters. I'm not spending the $ to figure it out, but someone will soon I suspect.
You should consider doing a video on the best tools for bleeding. Quite a few different kits out there now, Shimano, Park tool, Jagwire, ezMTB and more. Best would be to compare different parts, e.g. maybe Shimano bleed cups are the best, but Park Tool has the best syringes etc. Somebody really serious would mix and match parts from different kits, choosing the best parts from each.
I actually bought tools to do just that, and I myself am a "mixer" but then time passed and more cool stuff came onto the market so I will have to budget ahead again for when I can get the best options!
Any correctly sized 4-sided spoke wrench should make it INCREDIBLY hard to round off a spoke. If the tension gets too high for the mechanical properties of the nipple, you're much more likely to twist it - but at that point it is no longer the wrench's fault 😆
Your video is on their product page for the Tutto II. Very cool, well deserved and gets a Rick Flair Woooooo! I'm trying to decide on which of the Apprentice, Shop or Pro model to get but they all seem to have the same replacement parts, but Apprentice and Shop can't peen.
Phillips drive is garbage. Typical American crony capitalism forcing junk on people and stalling technological progress for a century because some drunk rich guys made a deal over a poker game or some nonsense and here we are.
Good video series. I wouldn't count QBP out just based on their "stated" requirements. I contacted them, told them what I bought (Ford Transit Connect) and that due to where I lived I wouldn't be able to wrap it, magnets only. They were fantastic to deal with and I've had an account with them for more than 5 months now. I was also able to do the same with JBI. I am so happy to have these guys on board and it's allowed my business to grow from day 1. Moral of the story is...find a way! Thanks for the videos
This is really an amazing review. It had all the important points I had questions about (even how the crimpers crimp whaaatt!!?) In my opinion there's no better one out here on RU-vid... Thank you very much! I've got smaller hands so will buy the icetoolz, look like some nice cutters :-)
Great video, but why didn't you use it to cut housing and show how hard it was and what the cuts/ crush looks like. I watched the whole video and then realized you didn't cut housing😢 just cable. Now I'm going to try and find a video like this where they cut housing😭
I found you through Bikegremlin so he's probably done you a big favor ! Reviewing stuff you actually use is a good strategy. A trap that many youtubers fall into is reviewing things in a day that should take weeks / months. That's often the price of selling your soul to marketing departments, so good on you that you've not done that . Don't be afraid of making mistakes , as long as you correct them. Never do a chain waxing video unless you are feeling brave ! Relja tried and although he usually puts out good vids I had some reservations on that one. Even from bike shops they rarely get it right. It looks from the background of one your vids that you deal with Muc-Off. Zerofrictioncycling have lab tested some and they perform poorly compared to the top products. Your better looking at their website but there is also the youtube vid ... Episode 20 Muc Off Files - Cycling’s most dishonest Marketing??? I deleted my original comment with a link as youtube ' hides' them , but as Adam Kerin can turn a 15 min vid into hours , start at 238 seconds. In summary he thinks Muc-off have used a testing procedure that is not the way chain lubes are used in the real world which makes their competitors products perform poorly. The good thing with Adam is he does not need the money , is former law enforcement and makes his own mind up, based on evidence. He is an expert on what he does as he does testing for the lubricant manufacturers. Edit : Crazy YT still hid my comment so I'm putting the link back ... ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-OsbkCsptxYU.html If you don't read this ... well ...
RU-vid 100% hid this comment - but I saw you mention it on the other channel so dug it up. I won't say I'll never do a chain lube related video as it pertains to bicycle mechanics, but it's not really my thing. Most of the choices for chain lube for my customer base were all about ease of use - even if they weren't using the LEAST friction choice I was just happy if they used something at all. If the optimum choice is too complicated (chain waxing or most ceramic lubes are great examples), most people won't do it or won't do it right. All in all, this argument is similar to "what motor oil should I put in my motorcycle?" And the most common answer is "some" 😆 I only explore the top tier for clients that asked or are in competition. I have a good relationship with the guys at Muc-Off - they are solid and I appreciate the focus on environmental impact. But most of the stuff I still have came from closing a shop space out and ending up with the remaining shelving etc.
@@NeutralSupportNews Your right, the best customer options are those convenient to most people and affordable. I don't currently use it but ' Effetto Mariposa Flowerpower ' is a product you probably want to keep an eye on. It's about as environmentally friendly as you can get and performs really well for a wax drip lube 🙂 . I made an assumption with the products on your shelving and I shouldn't ! Muc-off is just one of many companies in ZFC's Shonky Awards vids. His PrestaCycle One vid ( the lube thats also a polishing agent ! ) is a classic. You may not be amused at this but I LMAO at this section ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-uU4K5hZNorU.html . Prestacycle still sell this stuff.
I wish I had watched your video 2 years ago before I bought my cutter. Luckily I got the Icetoolz 67A5 🙂. It also has a ' reconditioner ' for opening up the ends of the housing after cutting, which your other reviewed tools lack. I considered the Park Tool CN-10 but read it was difficult to use unless you have giant hands. I have no idea if you can adjust for tool wear on the Icetoolz like you can with the Park but I don't run a bike shop so I doubt that's an issue. I appreciate it's difficult to test blade durability. Probably the only realistic way would be to feed brake cable into cutters in small increments and repeatedly cut potentially thousands of times ? The manufacturers will have a QC test.
For sure, decent manufacturers will have run the tools through machine-based total control testing to failure to see what the results are - then of course never tell any of us 🤣
What a great video! I'm building a wheel for the first time, this weekend, did all the measurements and calculated the spoke length-wow! I have so much more respect for mechanics. And all of you who share your knowledge, thank you all.
Danielle, thank you again for taking the time, it was great talking with you - and I must say that you did a great job with editing this video. :) Stay cool. Relja
