Hey Y'all, here at Red Clay Traveler you will see videos of my camping and exploring trips along with videos about my projects and many other hobbies. I love the outdoors and I go camping as often as possible. I also have a passion for history and you may hear me tell a story or two from time to time. I also have a passion for Willys Jeeps of all kinds, so the channel will mainly be about different Jeeps I am working on or building. I want this to be a fun and hopefully educational experience for all involved. I may occasionally review products that I am using while out on a trip or working on my old truck, but this is not a product review channel. I hope you enjoy and if you like what you see, please consider subscribing. Thanks, Dean
I totally understand. I keep thinking that before long I will have replaced every major possible fail point. lol If my full video would load y’all could see what my conclusions were on the trail. I believe my coil or the module under it is going bad. I ran the jeep hard on the highway and I think my coil got to hot in the top of my distributor.
I hear you loud and clear brother, I sell on FB Marketplace too and I'd say about half of all buyers are some kind of like you're describing, just have to roll with it.
It’s definitely part of the business but I swear it seems to get worse all the time. lol Sometimes it gets to me, but at least I finally sold the bike. I appreciate your comment!
@@redclaytraveler1949 ok. For now with your description I'm going to guess carburetor. A good cleaning with cleaner and air compressor and a new kit should do it. Those are good carbs. Also check fuel filter.
Carb was perfect. Fuel filter and fuel pump were fine. I believe my coil or the module is going bad. The carb doesn’t have enough hours to need a rebuild, they are good carbs for sure! I have been very pleased with mine.
I wish that was true buddy. lol I’m just doing the best I can and like they say, a blind hog roots up an acorn every now and then. lol I appreciate your support buddy!
I built a f700 log truck with a pto cable loader and boom, but when I lift the logs I have to have a guy push it on for the swing action. Your rig would save me time and money. How does the cables swing it your boom? 2 sprockets on pto?
It’s cable driven to swing the boom back and forth. It pulls the cable around a drum and pulls it either direction. I need to film another video showing how it’s setup, it’s hard to explain but it’s a simple system.
@@redclaytraveler1949 thanks, I seen that it cable swing on drum, but there has to be a way to segregate that turn cable from spool cable that probably has 100 ft of cable, that's what I want to learn. The loader a built has a pto shaft to sprocket and chain to sprocket I welded on a yoke of limited slip rearend , one side has spool on axle other side a brake master cylinder. The boom is drill steam pile and a axle bearing housing and a manually swing logs on, have to park with passenger side lower for gravety to help, some logs are 42" by 18.5 long oak/pallet wood down here in Mississippi
I’m sorry, I did a horrible job answering you. lol so it has a short cable on each side that an attach to hydraulic cylinders. Pull the lever and the cylinder pulls the cable and rotates the boom. I’m definitely going to film a video for you when I get a chance. This big stick design comes from a company that made them in Mississippi strangely enough. We have found others like it for sale from time to time in Mississippi and Alabama. It’s works pretty good and isn’t too hard to maintenance. Your build sounds very interesting, I wonder if you could adapt the design my brothers big stick uses to your setup.
@@redclaytraveler1949 exactly what I want to do, the build I did was common in south Mississippi, I have been cutting, loading and hauling wood since the early 1990s. And down here I never seen or heard of bigstick loader.
I apologize, my first comment was snarky in response to your comment. I read your comment wrong. So if you see my first comment I apologize. The carb has something strange going on, I couldn’t find anything wrong with it the few times I dissembled it. But to be honest I wasn’t super invested in it. lol The guy that was jerking me around I highly doubt could fix anything in 30 minutes. lol
Been there, it's a terrible job. I replaced all the steel lines too, let me tell you the crossover line in the front is brutal. You can get the wrench over that spring covering, angle the open end of the box wrench into the spring (not straight on, but at a steep angle where the wrench is approaching parallel to the line), pushing the two sides between the spring, it will spread open and let the wrench pass over it. On the steel line bolts, once the brake fluid runs out (flammable), heat and PB will get it free eventually. Oh, the retainer clip, I'm not aware of a special tool, but I used a punch with the hammer and spun the clip vertical, as it's rectangular shape will then stick out over the top surface of the bracket and pretty simple to tap it down with the hammer. You got it done and lived to tell the tale.
It’s always more of a job than I plan. lol The spring wrap was stuck on the drivers side but on the passenger side I was able to pull it back and use the line wrench finally. lol My hard lines still look decent but I do see patching in a new flare and nut in the future if I have to mess with them again. lol Those clips were damn near welded but they fought like they had something to lose for sure. I should have cleaned them up and painted them but I wanted to get on with it and not wait on paint to dry. lol I’ll definitely try that wrench technique next time, thanks buddy!
Can't find my rollmaster yet so googled thrust bearing for dob roll timing chain. I was thinking right on machining differences. But don't stress that. The bearing is used for roller cams along with cam buttons. Not normally used for flat tapped cams. Exception big block Chevy which I have so I had a cloudy memory about the bearing. Bearing does lead to some depth issues. On someone saying it doesn't fit I thought of one thing. Make sure and use a gasket on timing cover and not just silicone. Could be why somebody had an issue.? I removed my oil pan during this as thought I got antifreeze or something in there
I’m hoping to not drop the oil pan completely, I have read that it is doable but sometimes you have to loosen it a bit when reinstalling the cover. Which gear has a bearing? You are saying I will need to remove it when I do the install? I’m sorry, I’m not with the kit and I have forgotten a lot of what we discussed previously. From what I understand, my engine should not have a bearing on either gear, it should be a normal installation just like I did on the Dauntless, if I am remembering correctly.
@@redclaytraveler1949 correct no bearing. On roller cams they use them on cam gear along with cam button but you don't have roller cam I assume so delete bearing. On the oil pan you were talking about cutting the gasket which may be ok. On mine I dropped the pan. Had to remove one motor mount to do that. In your video you said I scared you on fitment but my concern was with the bearing. I also mentioned Chrysler high performance said the double rollers won't fit and won't work but they are wrong. I found that interesting when I had no problem. My buddy that died had mentioned that people in the forums had said they had problems with the 1 piece rear axle kits. I do know of a quirk there to look out for but don't know the problems they were having. I felt it was probably the installer but don't know. As always if you have questions or concerns yell out.
Oh don’t get me wrong buddy I’m not accusing you or anything, I appreciate your help! What I meant was I was concerned about overall fitting, including the bearing situation, not just it physically fitting. It wasn’t the best choice of words. I would like to do it without dropping the oil pan because I already did that in the past and it is sealed up nicely with a new gasket. What I meant in the video was I planning on doing it with out cutting the oil pan gasket. The guys on the forums say they did it without cutting the old gasket and putting the small one in that comes in the gasket kit. They said they just carefully removed the cover and when they reinstalled they dropped the oil pan a little in the front, added permatex to the gasket and reinstalled the cover. That’s what I’m hoping to do. I checked my front differential and it wasn’t low enough to matter, I added maybe a couple table spoons worth before it ran out. I assume the knuckle is just grease. I haven’t had any issues with my rear axle since I changed the seals and bearings. I appreciate your help buddy! More than you know!
It’s something just sweating getting the tools together before I work on anything. lol my family has been in the deep south since before the revolution and I still ain’t use to it. lol
@@redclaytraveler1949 My family came to Minnesota from Sweden shortly after it was admitted to the Union, so I come from a long line cold blooded people who have no ability to deal with temps above 80. We're a strange group of people up here who like to sit in silence and stare into a fire for a few months every year.
Best thing you can do is those front rubber lines. Great to hear Napa has the rear. For years all the parts stores told me not available. Got mine from 4 wheel parts. If your brakes pull to one side it usually means the opposite side is not working. On the timing chain the only issue is that bearing. Still need to check if mine came with one. I'll go look now but I'm sure you won't use it. Sorry about concussion. Mentally I was putting it in the wrong place anyway. My goof. The chain and gears will fit and work again my number is 913 709 9673 if I can help.
Thanks buddy, I saved your number. Yeah I’m glad I have a new set of hoses, makes me feel better on the road. Sounds like the timing set should be fine then, I just have to get the time to tear into it. I will eventually. lol
Jeeps are so much fun to work on, I like your channel I'm here to learn how to keep these things running. CJ2A, DJ5 RHD and a TJ RHD. and Happy Birthday Again, i think you helped me fix my DJ5's idle issue today, same thing you just fixed.
hahaha You got that right ,on most dont use them blinkers !! Ya may not believe this, but i found an unbranded HT for my 79 cj 5 , under 300 bucks , with doors too , just sit on there this evening . trying to find some tips on fitting everything !! just liked & subscribed !! Keep on Keepin on !!
@redclaytraveler1949 Pride Landing is a boat ramp on Tennessee River in Alabama, sites between Wilson Dam & Pickwick Dam. Got its name from the Pride Estates farm back in the 1900's.
Love the odd-fire Dauntless, all that low end torque and unique rumble. Ditch the hard stock fan and hit the junkyard for some electric ones. Just measure the rad and see home much space you have to cover, Many cars had two small fan units that you can wire separate depending on your running temp. Some are pusher but most are puller types. Keep after it!
I can sense the Red Clay Traveler's dauber is down, but I feel the rant has given him some wind back in his sail to attack the problems at hand. Good luck, my friend.
It’s helps to blow off steam. lol I’ll get the clutch figured out in a few days. Hey I’m still wondering what your comment meant on the wood splitting video. Why is it vanity?
@@redclaytraveler1949 Sometimes my fingers get ahead of my brain...that was intended to be a comment for a video I watched just prior to yours. I'm not the brightest bulb in the marquee sometimes. Sorry for the confusion on that one. Funny thing about it was I had taken a peek at that video that was intended for and figured I'd crossed the line and it got broomed. The Red Clay Traveler solves yet another mystery of the universe.
People are funny, aren't they? Bummer about the clutch, the good news is there's really not a lot of parts in there so if they're all moving back and forth the way they're supposed to, and there's no more adjustment to be made, then something in there is wrong or you're missing a spacer or something simple. That transmission came with the motor I think, so if you put on a new flywheel or whatever you'd see if there was a difference with the offset or something like that. I expect it's either something very simple or the wrong clutch. You'll get it figured out.
The only parts I changed were the clutch and pressure plate, but right now it appears nothing is moving. The clutch feels bound, but I don’t feel it move when pushing the pedal, it just stops. So obviously something is wrong. I don’t see how it could be the wrong clutch because it’s supposed to be spline specific and of course the pressure plate has to fit and when we did it everything fit fine. The only thing that was odd was the pressure plate did seem to be under a lot of pressure but I assumed it was because it was new and not worn out. I’m going to pull the thing out in a few days and separate it. Hopefully it’s a quick fix.
I noticed on the motor i just bought that the seller didnt remove it from craigslist. The guy is very busy but i thought that was strange. He said he would take offers but i just gave him what he asked. Probably freaked him out 😊 on your clutch i havent seen it but have a few ideas. Sounds like its not being pushed in far enough. Doesnt take much play to make a big difference. Is it the same style that came out of it ?
@@redclaytraveler1949 my input on this is very lengthy. Too much to type out. From my Chevy truck to my jeeps I have been through some crazy learning experiences on this subject. You may want to call me or I can type later. In the middle of a big mess with the irs at the moment. Get back with me after a couple of hours.
I will sir, I’m going to pull it out and see what’s going on. If I can’t figure it out I will be sure to contact you buddy. I’ll try to film it as well
The fuel supply line that would have come with it is a pre-bent thing that goes from the top of the fuel pump and bends around a few things and lines it up to the other pre-bent line that goes to the carb. You can get them both at Inline Tube if you want or you can make your own I suppose. I can send you a picture of mine if you want to see them.
That’s cool. So mine is nothing like factory it sounds like. Mine works fine, I’m just always curious about how things were originally. I appreciate the info buddy
I just did an order for 1200 dollars on t150 parts but they didnt show much on that transmission. I do have more stuff soon that is more up their alley. Not too long ago parts on t 150 were everywhere. I soon noticed not so today.
@@redclaytraveler1949 when they first started they were doing 76 thru 79 but then they seemed to do only 71 and prior. I should have called. On the t150 several things are out of stock thru crown and omix both. Second and third synchro assembly being the rarest. Cluster gear they show 200. Time to stock up on clusters 😆
It’s looks like getting parts is easier than ever before for a lot of Jeeps but for a few it’s impossible. I think it will continue getting better. Way to much interest in vintage Jeeps for the demand not to be filled.
I did this job a couple months ago and everything seems fine. No leaks that I see. I did find one valve that was a touch loose but it doesn’t make noise so I left it alone for now
Picked up my first California Jeep 6 cyl yesterday. It has a Holley reman Carter yf carb. Didn't know Holley did that. Put a microguard on my mom's blazer. All they had that day. Normally on my jeeps and welders I use fram. A lot of people frett filters but I say they aren't doing anything anyway. Only two I've seen a problem with are a Baldwin and an AC Delco. They both fell apart internally. Element was rattling severely end to end.
I believe it's important before buying or selling anything that I inform myself a lot before engaging in the actual sales/purchase process. I think that's how I came across you, if I'm not mistaken, while I was researching a local truck. Knowing that I know what I need to in order to make an educated purchase/sale, I don't engage with the other parties too much to the point where it gets personal. The way I see it they have something I want, either to buy or I want their money, so I don't get into arguments with them about anything. If I'm trying to make a purchase and they're way high, well I know they aren't going to sell whatever it is, so I give them an honest assessment of what it's worth and tell them I hope they get what they want, but if they find they can't sell it it and they do some research, they might see I'm giving them a good offer. The two most important things I can suggest to someone looking to make a purchase is, aside from knowing what it is they're looking at and what things are worth, is to be ready to make the purchase immediately (you have the money and any permission you might need to buy it already) as once the process starts it moves fast. Second is to not want it more than the person selling it, you have to be able to walk away no harm done. Something is only worth what someone is willing to pay for it at a price someone else is willing to part with it. Seems simple but when people get involved, nothing is simple.
It's getting there! If you're looking for opinions about the luggage rack, I think if you put something on a vehicle that serves a function that is actually used, then it's appropriate, and thus looks exactly the way it's supposed to look. I see a lot of stuff tacked onto trucks that you know are never actually going to be used, those things look kind of "poser" if you know what I mean. If you're going to carry stuff on it, then just say "nice rack" and move on with your life!
The Red Clay Traveler has a way of capturing the frustration we all seem to encounter when wading into the world of online buying and selling. I've become resigned to the fact that a good 30-40 percent of online buyers or sellers are huffing large amounts of aluminum spray paint just prior to hopping online or texting. Keep the content rolling, its high entertainment!
I've been all over the southeast looking for a willys wagon, I've come across the same nonsense. Marketplace should make these take an IQ test. I saw pictures of a restoration
Looks right. No keyway slot in middle hole with a small hole off to the side for the pin sticking out from cam. Not sure if mine has the bearing. Still in the box and not near it now. The cloyes doesnt come with bearing. At least the last one didnt. Interesting.
@@redclaytraveler1949 yeah all we have to do is figure it out 😆 the spacing between gear face and cam or gear to block face will enter into it. May have to make a call to australia to check. No joke. I will check the one I have but that doesn't say it is machined the same or if it even came with bearing. If you call please tell me what they say. My guess is to delete but then why put it in the box?
@@redclaytraveler1949 not the other AMC sixes they are the same. I would call them. I will see if I can come up with any facts but I doubt it. Cloyes probably can't help as it's not there unit.
I don’t know, I haven’t been around any other AMC sixes. I don’t know what the bearing situation is, my Dauntless didn’t have a bearing when I did its chain. As usual it would appear I am over my head. lol I did read that you sometimes have to clearance one sprocket for an oil passage or something like that. I’m not with the chain or I would check. The instructions seem straightforward and nothing strange, but I don’t know
I’m getting excited! We do have a clutch issue though and it looks like we are going to have to put it back out and figure out why the clutch isn’t releasing
I'm glad to see you getting some stuff done, I know filming adds double or more time to doing the work. I had to give up on mechanical pumps for my cj7 and put in an electric one. I prefer mechanical ones, but I just kept replacing them and they kept letting me down and I just don't trust the parts you can get anymore. Electric ones work great, but when they quit they just kinda quit and leave you stranded, which is also not great. I'll just carry a cheapo electric if my Facet pump dies to get me home I guess.
