Great video thank you very much! One question, do you know where the coolant bleed valve/plug is on the engine? I did a cooling flush but could not find the bleed point location that I know should be near the cylinder head to bleed the air out of the tubing. Now the car is overheating with a water not circulating, and I've searched all over the Internet and the all the information available is only for the gasoline engine not the diesel. Thank you very much😊😊😊
CAUTION: The timing chain must be installed with the single plated link aligned with the dot and or paint marking on the camshaft sprocket. The crank- shaft sprocket is aligned with the dot and or paint marking on the sprocket between two plated timing chain links.- 2004 Dodge Ram Factory Service Manual 5.7
These are the worst pieces of SHIT I've ever owned....I am repairing mine and selling it immediately. NEVER EVER buy an English vehicle again, they make the worst cars/trucks I've ever seen.
I have Doscovery Sport 2018, engine is 2.0 diesel 150HP. So far, he has driven 247,000 km and there are no problems with the chain in the engine. There are no strange sounds, everything is ok. But, that car was driven mostly on the open road, auto road...
It's called regular oil changes, checking, and top offs.... Unfortunately our cell phones are not capable of that so it's become a lost art. Most cars dont even tell you if your 4 quarts low on a 5 quart system. stupidity reigns supreme in the land of humans.
My timing marks are identical your alignment.. I have reset timing multiple times and it consistently lines up like you have in the video.. Did you let it ride or find a resolution? Any feedback is greatly appreciated!
Mine just started doing that, today. Really pssd me off. But I suppose if I get a new turbo I'll get a bit of power back again. I think it's been dodgy for a while. If it's not one thing it's another
sounds like a chain .... Yeah it is time consuming job.... check on your one using diagnostic tool live parameters (timing synchronisation between camshaft and crankshaft) when starting cold car also on running engine....
This is not for the butter fingers guys.. I’d drop it in the engine bay within minutes with the screws 😂 Would like to have a go with connectors as not working anyway wat I got to lose. Got 5 faults so very likely it’s relay. They want £100 labour and £150 parts.
Hi im planning to do same operatrion want just to ask if you have to lower the subframe or to remove something from the steering/rack column...many thanks
@@alessandrosega1508 yes normal should be 3, there are posts about this exact issue (that is extremely common in diesel smart cars) on clubsmartcar, is the thermostat that for a design issue doesnt fully close and always let a tiny bit of hot coolant into the radiator not allowing to reach operating temperature, you could either place a restrictor plug that create counter pressure allowing the thermostat to seal or i have fitted a petrol smart car thermostat that is designed with a restrictor already built in, you can read about that on clubsmartcar, the only issue is that with both options you need to lower the engine to reach the thermostat so is not a 30 minutes job, If you make that mod I also suggest to block the egr, in the long run the engine will thank you and will stay cleaner
Hello, does these 2.0 tdi injectors have copper seals/washer? I know the 1.9 Tdi does but I’m not sure on the 2.0 tdi. Because I took mine out and there isn’t one…
hello thank you for this video great job i have a range rover evoque with the same motor and i need to change the chain but i dont have the tools can you give me just the dimension of the camshaft tool thank you so much
Do you have a chance to add mileage to your video? We have Jaguar E Pace with the same engine. The question is - how to understand when do we need to change it to be on a safe side ?
not remember exact mileage but i think it was around 120k kilometres, the symptoms was noise on cold start up also on hot engine if you let it stay for longer before starting up, also sometimes fault code comes for camshaft and crankshaft timing .... I have seen one with same symptoms even worse with 88k kilometres on clock ....
Hi i have a BMW e60 530d 2004 model with the same problem. Firstly i was thinking that was the exhaust manifold and i did replace for a new one. Then they told me that was the turbo and i also replaced for a new one. The noise still remain. Please help because i am lost and don't know what to do.
it is hard to say anything without proper looking , if manifold and turbo replaced (to new ones) than something else making noise, did you try remove drive belt and try without belt? How about dpf filter and catalyst , maybe blocked and gases go out trough place like gasket where do not have to ?
Thank you so much for this video, i am due to change mine, looks like it will be extremely hard to do on the ground. How long did it take and did you replace vvt gear too?
yeap, on ground will be problematic , as need to remove bottom frame, gearbox etc....takes a bout full working day (working on lift) ..... And yes new VVT valve it come with a kit
@@demoniacRACING thanks for reply, what kit did you buy from jlr? Im looking at ebay kit, seems decent, 200 for chain and gear and tensioners but without vvt tho..
The torsion value is adjustable by moving the Inlet camshaft. Watch my video on camshaft setup. The value should be 0.0kw when at normal temp 90oC. Clockwise movement will increase the value anticlockwise will reduce. So turn the 18mm bolt a fraction anticlockwise to get your from 1 to 0. You have to undo the 3x 13mm bolts first then move the 18mm bolt literally 1mm is enough to move it Alot. You fuel consumption in measuring block 15 should be 0.4 to 0.6l/hr. Flicking between these values is perfect. This is done by adjusting the exhaust cam. Getting these value correct will make your pd tdi purr and run much better. Fuel economy is also better with good power and torque.
Just replaced the turbo, oil & filter and all is good again, no whistle noise and a bit more power too....yay. The play in the shaft didnt feel excessive on the old unit, seen far worse.
Hi, I had just completed 2,51,000 kms from my 1.9 tdi PD deisel engine. I am facing issue in Starting when engine is hot. When it is cold it get start smoothly but when it gets hot, it starts getting trouble in starting. I had checked the starter motor and ECM both are working fine. No any faulty code when i scanned. Could you please help me with the solution. I will highly appreciate your response. Thanks
Hi, have you checked timing? When changing timing belt correctly you need locking tools and loosen three bolts on camshaft pulley when tightening belt, but many garages ignores this and just swaps belt without any correction, sometimes this cause a problems .... Also you can check timing with diagnostic tool
This is the classic weak starter motor. When they get old they turn slower especially when hot, if the engine doesn't rotate above 250rpm when cranking you will not get any fuel injection command from the ecu so it won't start. Trust me I've had this problem many times on older tdi. You can log rpm on vcds and see what rpm it reaches to confirm this before spending money on parts. Your timing also needs to be correct or hot starts are difficult.
@@Righteouness he didn't say how he checked the starter was fine! Having no fault codes isn't a verification whether or not its OK. The only way to test a starter on the car is log the rpm when cranking. If over 250 rpm then it's acceptable. Also a battery drop test would be a wise thing to do. Aside from the cranking rpm, crank and cam signals need to be correct as well. It's possible heat is affecting a sensor but very unlikely. Hence the starter and of course a good battery with the correct ccc amp is a must to ensure good starting performance. Lastly cam timing slip can cause hot start issue and cold. The cam sprocket should be roughly middle of the slots and when checked on the measuring block 4 "torsion" translation in English is angle of crank to cam should be 0 degrees or as close as possible to it. If plus or minus too far ie more than 4 or - 4 you will get hard/difficult starting issues.
Unfortunately I had to watch video 6 times due to the first five times, I just ended up dancing to the musics. But I got myself under control. Good video
I have 30k with the balance shafts out. I'll keep you updated . Under 200km or 150miles and the age of these cars please just replace it and dont buy a new car. its worth it!
@@xiukn8 Lol euhm I use it for work a lot. After 20k kilometers as of my last post and two tire switches because of the winter. I can only say it just feels more like a diesel. What a beautifull engine. The revs at 3rd gear around 1700 just gives a slight rumble. .But other than that It feels a little less idle when speeding up. But really all i felt before and after was that my clutch trembled a little bit more. Its just the details. Above 2000CC I do not recommend it tho. Unless its 6cill because those are balanced by phsyics. TL;DR No drop off oil pressure without balance shafts in this engine. lmao.
