This channel is about mostly cars, with some of my other interests sprinkled in. I'll be covering my experiences and opinions of many cars, including internal combustion engine vehicles (gas/petrol and diesel), electric vehicles, hybrids, etc, as well as performance tuning and driving. It will also include some of my experiences as a (former) professional automotive technician.
I installed on 2023 Bolt EUV. THANKS THANKS for the video, gave me the confidence (and a number of hints) to tackle it! I'm a middling backyard mechanic. Once I assembled all the tools - took 2 hours. - I didn't jack up the car. No need. - To make the clearance between wheel and the T15 screws inside fender, I got a 1/4" ratcheting combination wrench so my (1/4") T15 bit would fit in the space. There's only enough space for the bit between wheel and screw. $6 for the combo wrench vs. the power right-angle nut driver you have. - As you say, those 3 fasteners at top (just below the taillight) are crux. I pried and yanked (carefully), no luck. My success was creeping up the inside along the rear gate molding to first break free the inside fastener. Once that was freed, it opened the way. Thanks for posting!
Can’t thank you enough for this video and the hitch install video. I wouldn’t have had the confidence to pull it off, so you essentially saved me the $400 U-Haul would have charged for the labor. THANK YOU!
Happened to me. Dealership service said nothing wrong with battery. Died again a few days later, then several times in one day. They will do anything to avoid replacing battery under warranty.
Wow!! Saved my but in Sparks, Nevada. Dat and watched 3 other cars pull up and charge with no issue. My wonderful wife googled “Charging problems with E/A Station and 2019 Chevy Bolt “ and your video came up. So Thanks so much!!!
Thanks for the great video! I'm doing my install this weekend. Looks easy enough. Definitely not a 10/10. Maybe a 5 in my opinion. I guess it all depends on your experience working on cars! Possible to do the cutout before bumper removal, and then avoid disconnecting the wiring harness just to speed things up a bit? I may try this approach. Thanks again for taking your time to help others.
Had the exact same problem m, I don’t believe it’s a faulty 12v battery problem, Hyundai obviously know that is an issue, but will not recall Ioniq5s for repair. Personally I think that sucks and in the long term they will loose customer confidence. I love the car, but a serious problem like this should have been acted on.
Hopefully Tesla don’t change the superchargers to,suit other vehicles with charge port on the wrong side, in order to deter them from using our chargers
It won't deter anyone. It will just piss off Tesla drivers trying to charge but can't because another vehicle is taking up two spots because it's on the "wrong" side.
That’s not really a good way to look at it bud. I have two teslas. I don’t care if other cars need to charge at a supercharger. We need to not get into brand camps again like the old Chevy and Ford days. A car is a car. I more think it’s silly that Kia, being a Korean car company, would put the charge port on the opposite side of the driver. I’ve always thought it’s weird to put even a gas tank port on the opposite side of a driver.
@@shadir007 it’s the right way to look at it while the availability of superchargers is often limited. Once superchargers and charging duration is on parity with fuel pump to car ratios, I’ll be happy to share.
There are many problems with this to begin with….the EV9 will not go above 80Kw on Tesla Superchargers , this is well known in documented. This is a KIA problem not Tesla. These manufacturers should have decided on a standard before building out these cars AND had a standard on where the charge ports would be. Unfortunately poor planning on everyone part. For today, unless you have a Tesla, it make sense to only buy an EV if you plan to charge it at home 90% of the time.
@hp-fx9pv This is too simple of a conclusion that skips a lot of the market place reality and history. The 500+ volt EV9 is well suited to go above 200Kw charging except with Tesla Superchargers. Tesla is one of those manufacturers that did not settle on a standard until 2022 models. (On 2021 models or older it's a not free hardware retrofit to comply with the standard) CCS is the standard communications with J3400 and until 2023 no agreement existed with any US manufacture for interoperability. Charge port location can be tricky with a trailer using the tesla layout practice, pull through stalls seem to remedy the charge port location issue, but rarely found in the US. I have never used a tesla V3 charger and have had no issues this year on cross country road trips. So any EV choice is sound in 2024.
It’s easier to charge a Tesla than pumping gas. Take out cable, plug in, walk away. No fumbling with app, no using a credit card machine at the pump, no having to walk into the gas station and tell them $80 on pump 9. When done, unplug, hang cable, leave. No putting a gas cap back, and shutting the door. It automatically opens and closes the door.
95 of charging is usually done at home. Park in carport/garage, plug in, walk away. In the morning unplug and go with a full battery. Absurdly easier than visiting a petrol station and far cheaper.
I think it's commendable that you havent simply trashed a wonderful car, but rather, stayed objective about the whole thing...even going as far as saying you might be the unlucky one. Thank you for the short but informative video. Hope your car gets sorted out somehow and that you get to enjoy driving it again. NB : I have a 2024 std range that has been assembled in Singapore. Just been told my car is not affected by the ICCU recall...but it did get a bunch of software updates last week.
Thanks for the video. It gave me the confidence to do mine. I just completed it a couple days ago. I'm 76 and don't move very fast but I had the trailer hitch on inside of two hours. While I had the bumper fascia off, I went ahead and installed the wiring kit, following your experience in your video on that subject. The wiring took me far longer, but I pretty much followed all your examples. I got everything back together with no left-over parts. Everything works. Thank you so much for sharing your experience.
I found your video to be more informative than the instructions. Etrailer has this wiring harness from Curt, part #C45ZV or Curt#56521. It appears to be identical to the one you use in the video. My car is a 23 EUV Premier built in mid '22. When I went to empty out the "trunk", my car has Super Cruise, so the forward portion of the pit has electronics for the Super Cruise. Between that and the hatch threshold is a rigid foam tray that makes it difficult to get a grip on the lower edge of the threshold cover. A single T-45 torx screw holds it in place. I had to use a couple plastic pry tools to move the edge of the threshold plastic out of the way and then the foam piece comes straight up. Then, pulling the lower edge of the threshold plastic toward the front of the car and then straight up, it comes out nicely. I followed your example of routing the wires through the passenger cabin to under the hood and duplicated your connection to the power lug on the fuse block. Grounding the trailer wiring was easy, as looking forward behind that driver side panel where you mounted the black box, there are two ground lugs that are very reachable and the ground wire from the black box easily reached those. In my car the two grommets that are on either side of those one-way air exhaust vents were untouched. The kit connectors for the blinkers would not fit through those holes, so I cut those wires (green passenger side and yellow driver side) and poked them through those grommets and then used shrink wrapped splices to complete that portion. I had a piece of 1/4" ID rubber fuel line, so used your idea of splitting it and protecting the wiring from the edges of that square port, as you did. My car has a pop-off port cover about 3-4" square in the driver side panel, so I used that to bring the 4-flat connector wiring through. When the trailer wiring is not in use, I bundle that 4-flat wiring with a piece of velcro and stuff it back in the hole. Fits nicely and is easy to retrieve. Thanks so much for the videos. I used your video to add the trailer hitch also. And after watching both videos, I did the wiring project immediately after the hitch install when the bumper was still off the car. That made the only reason to go under the car was to remove those two black nylon push-pins that hold the lower part of the bumper fascia in place. Incidentally, does anyone know the exact size of those two black nylon pins? Being unfamiliar with how they work, I pretty much destroyed them when removing them.
Have the same problem, but with the hyundai santa fe plug in hybrid. I've turned off every electronic thing. Like electronic key, electric charging port locking and so on. I thought of using a solar trickle charge panel plugged into the twelve volt accessory port. But when you shut the vehicle off, that port is shut down. I use a 12 V USB charger with a digital display. Plugged into the twelve volt accessory port to show what the voltage of the battery is. When the voltage gets low, I use a twelve volt charger to charge the battery.
I’m opting not to share that since I don’t want to spread information that allows people access to locked vehicles, but it is a common method used by roadside assistance personnel for lockout situations.
I had assumed the KIa EV9 would have adopted a Lithium battery for the 12volt system, but if it is that standard lead acid like the one I had, which the dealer told me was fine after 5 completely dead discharges, then I would not both having them replace that battery with another cheap standard lead acid battery, but what I did was get a decent 12Volt Glass Matt (AGM) battery that was 3 years ago for me, which has never had an issue since. Strange they go for such great tech but than on one of the most important items cheap out on it.
There seems to be a rumor that the EV9 uses a lithium battery. Mine definitely does not, it’s identical to the battery that was in my Ioniq5. That said, if the battery was bad, it would be dead again after sitting for nearly 2 weeks, but it wasn’t. Something discharged it while sitting at work. An AGM or lithium battery would have suffered the same fate. This is an issue with poor 12V battery energy management.
Hard to say. Tesla designed the Cybertruck to be able to charge at high speed on their superchargers by essentially splitting the battery in half and treating it like 2 400V batteries (way oversimplified description) using hardware on the vehicle itself, so there isn’t much incentive for them to fix their current superchargers. My understanding is that the real V4 (CCS2) Superchargers do support 800V but the “V3.5” NACS chargers we’re getting over here don’t. I’ve not verified that info though, so take it with a grain of salt.
Completely agree. Since so many manufacturers are now moving towards the Tesla connector (in the US anyway) its likely that they will be designed to work with Superchargers, not only the connector but also the location of the connector on the vehicle. That said, it doesn't help the hundreds of thousands of people with EVs that were not designed with Tesla Superchargers in mind. Of course, we also must consider that Noth America is no longer the biggest market for vehicles in general, certainly not for EVs, are we are the only ones using NACS, and so that may have an impact on what vehicle manufacturers choose to do.
It's completely unrealistic to expect simplicity and seamlessness in a technology that is essentially in its infancy. People need to adjust their expectations regarding the transition from ICE to EV. If you don't want to be an early adopter, and all of the complications that go with it, then don't. Just wait to get an electric car until all of these things have been worked out to your satisfaction - maybe 10 years. In the meantime, there's no reason to complain about those of us who enjoy being on the bleeding edge of new technology. This is going to take a while. The end result will be well worth the pain of the transition. Relax, watch us struggle (and have fun doing so), and then step in when you think its become easy enough.
Thanks for the explanation on power limit to Hyundai\Kia\Genesis cars. I was excited when I first heard about Tesla Magic Dock chargers being available to an Ioniq 5 on our main road trip route. But now I think I'll have to think of them as backup chargers if EA fails. Will Tesla V4 sites have the same voltage limitation? Even if they solve the problem, they are still in the relatively long term future.
Correct. As long as Superchargers are limited to ~400V, this will be an issue for any vehicle that uses > 400V batteries (which is not just HKG vehicles)
Your video was a great help with my installation. Same Tekonsha kit on 2023 EUV. I put on my hitch about a month earlier (Torklift) and removed the rear bumper cover for that. I ended up removing it again for this job because those GM electrical connectors drive me up a wall! I cannot get the connector to release and pull apart unless I have two hands on it. Anyway, the second time removal of the bumper cover was a little easier than the first because I was more confident on where to pull and how hard to pull to release the fasteners but I probably didn't save any time...just reduced frustration. Getting the bumper cover to release from directly under the tail lights is always challenging until you get the "pop". Your tips and comments were helpful. I took more time than I expected to run the power wire to the front and feed the rear connectors through the air vent. The connectors had to pass through a certain way because of their size and they are zip tied already. Thanks again!
I just picked up my leased 2024 Ioniq 5 Limited RWD yesterday. $10,000 off directly from Hyundai. Both the dealership and the salesman were very motivated. They were both way behind their February quotas. They had 15 Ioniq 5’s on the lot. More are on the way. The also had 4 Ioniq 6’s on the lot. There is currently more supply than demand in Tucson and Phoenix, AZ. Although, that doesn’t stop some dealers from still trying to mark up their current inventory.
12V batteries typically last 5-6 years even in ICE vehicles that have a much, much greater demand put on them. This was a highly premature battery failure, hence why Hyundai covered it under warranty.
@@wrenchingfool5284 OE batteries are 24 month batteries, not retail 60 month batteries. My last three new vehicles needed new batteries before 22 months. Please don’t insert comments on topics you know nothing about.
I followed your video and installed the draw tite on my euv in about 1.5hrs. I watched and zoomed and rewatched to get a good grasp on where the bumper clips were. Getting the clips by the lights to disengage was the hardest part. I recommend getting those plastic car part removers to assist with the wheel well clips. Thx!
I installed a trailer hitch on my 2017 Bolt (Curt 11457), it went "without a hitch" :) My use is a bike carrier and it handles it fine, don't worry about it not being 'rated for towing'.
Ditto... still try'n to solve the problem. I wonder ( as said below), if I just change the battery myself to a Die Hard it would solve this issue. Any thoughts on this ?
You only have a piddly 13,000 miles. I hope you have no issues. My last ICE car had 152,000 miles with zero issues and now has 205,000 miles in the hands of a friend. Also still with zero issues.
Gee, 2011 Nissan Leaf with 87,000 miles only need two cooling pumps replaced. Other than shocks at 52,000, a new 12V battery at the 6th year point, and parking brake service, car was perfect. 2022 Hyundai Ioniq 5, approaching 14,000 miles, zero issues. A friend has a 2018 Tesla Model 3 and only repair was in 2022, a speed sensor was replaced. Seemingly locking on a few hiccups here and there is quite appropriate to be sarcastic and negative?
