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the only thing you have to do to cut s.st. is slow down. a hard additive like chrome will make a soft alloy. s.st. is soft but sticky. a soft alloy like lead will make a hard alloy like bronze. hard and brittle. no heat=no coolant needed, sticky materials need lube. overheating will make your drill stick to s.st. part ans harden it(a hard facing). because high speed steel is very easy to harden. yes a drill bit can melt and stick to your part even tho you can't see it. smoke---->too late, it's done. i often compare s.st. to plasticine.
The video shows applying di electric grease to the electrical contact sufaces of the wire and the plug. Why would anyone put an insulating grease between two conductors. Make the connection first then put the grease on to protect it.
What would you recommend for a rub rail? I'm restoring a 1976 Bayliner Bucaneer. Major leaking from the rub rail. I have it all prepped to reinstall. I am not sure what sealant to keep the water out.
I’m sorry, good video, but why does everyone start diagnosing at the sender? Think simple, work from key to gauge to sender, then complete system is checked. Turn key on, check for power and ground at gauge, if good then ground out gauge on back, gauge should peg. If no power/ground, fix first. If gauge doesn’t peg gauge is bad. NOW go to sender, ground out with key on, if it pegs sender bad, if it doesn’t wiring to gauge is bad. There, simple complete system diagnosed. Again sorry, but there are more videos on RU-vid that they all start at the sender. And just for info, there are rare times the gauge will peg but still be bad. Retired 40 year marine tech.
I agree it is good to start at the source, in this case I started at the other end, the source being the sender, as I knew I had power. The sender is often the most likely fault and easiest to do a quick check. A simple grounding of the sender wire at the sender will confirm the wiring and meter are good. Thanks for your input it will help others
Your videos are very helpful. We just started our rehab on our boat. Any ideas you may have will always help. Please keep creating. Cruising Carolina is our name.
Those plungers work but I also suggest getting a detachable mop and using it as an agitator I use a swiffer jet and just took of the mop part and it works pretty good.
The water is serving as a lubricant, but as you mentioned, it serves as a great coolant. It takes a lot of heat to flash water into steam and oil doesn’t go through the same phase change as water and it is the phase change that really absorbs the heat.
Thank you Captain Wayne ,it was very informative. Some issues I did not know: The wiring thickness measuring ! Making no curves and calculating only 50% of the capacity of the pump.... that is something no commercial web site tells you. From the Netherlands : Dank U.
With all the wires to the battery terminated at a central fuse block, it's a simple process to remove the block from the battery if the battery ever has to be pulled or replaced. Pop in the new battery and make one connection for all the circuits.
I’m amazed you still respond to the comments This video was 8 years ago And I must say You did a wonderful Job The holes make a big difference Thanks for your video
Why don't just tie the dirty clothes about 4'-5' behind the propeller, the propeller acts as an agitator. Do your laundry when you plan to do some boating around, that way, you can kill three birds with one stone because you can save money on your laundry detergent as well.
Part of that depends on the application but if using silicone make sure the label says it is mildew resistant as silicone seems to be the worst for mold growth. Good luck
I’m getting ready to install a new tilt trim motor on my boat. Even though it has a oring I also want to apply a sealant around the flange for extra sealing from salt water. Which brand and type do you recommend to use
I am thinking you are talking aluminum to aluminum so I would suggest a good quality marine silicone. Not West marine brand, 3M and boatlife have a good product. Good luck
Ok thats not bad, but did I miss the finished job pics? Ive done this on my headlights before and they look awesome when finished but Ive never used this product or kit so Id like to see the results. Cheers.
Most of this is actually misinformation. To begin, there are lots of different alloys of stainless steel with different compositions. And... using water as a coolant (not a lubricant) generally results in microfractures at the cutting edge, shortening tool life. And... HSS (especially with cobalt) has extremely good hot hardness. Only carbon steel is likely to lose its hardness under ordinary use with handheld tooling. Please understand what you're doing before you give, or accept, any advice about things like this.
I’m a carpenter and I hate that vinegar smell from some silicone products. Now I know they’re inferior!! I had a feeling lol smells nasty. Cool info man 👍🏻
Hey! I tried to email you about a year and a half ago I’m a boat builder and found your videos very helpful at the beginning of my journeys as a marine technician. Glad to see you’re doing well, congrats on your new book. I’ll be sure to get a copy
The key to cutting stainless is a sharp bit, keep it cool, and drill slow. If you don't see metal shaving coming off of the piece, STOP. Once you work harden it, you are hosed.
Hi Capt Wayne. Great video and thanks for posting! My boat had terrible looking backing plates and the seacocks frankly scare me, so I'm changing them all out (1975 Westsail 28). Everything I know about seacocks and thru hulls, I learned from youtube and trial by fire. Here's my question: Do I need to gel coat the outside hull if I sanded some of it or can I 5200 that when I'm installing the new thru hull? I sanded because there are lots of layers of bottom paint and I didn't think it would be so great to try to bond the through hull over top of all that paint.
You're really good at this. It's so rare to find this breadth of information in such a concise explanation. Eight years later, this video is still fantastic.