Lady Crockett Crafts explores crafting techniques and creates tutorials utilizing the Glowforge laser printer and Silhouette Studio Business Edition design software. Come learn and explore with me!
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Prying the timing bet off the wheel is not a good idea. It will eventually lead to stretching the belt. It is better to use an Allen wrench (2.5 or 3mm) to loosen the wheel and let it slide toward the left to remove tension and allow the belt to fall off. Reverse to put the belt on.
Yes, that is another way of doing it that users may want to consider so thanks for the detailed information. My instructions are from the Glowforge user manual but other methods, such as the one you mentioned, are often used with success too. Some people have issues using the Allen wrench method and not being able to get the belt taut again, for anyone considering between the two ways. I have not damaged mine with the videoed method in the 4 years having my GF fwiw. It slides off rather easy because it isn't really prying, it's just getting the belt off track as it turns naturally.
Hello, do you know if I can connect the inline fan to a fume extractor? I don't have the option to vent outside & the fume extractor I have isn't strong enough by itself to extract all the fumes.
Hello, love your videos they are alway so helpful!! I'm really struggling with making my glowforge recognize what parts need to be cut and which need to be engraved. But everytime I upload my svg files that I've converted to svg from Silhouette Business edition my glowforge only recognizing them to cut. and I know I can just change it in the glowforge software but some of my files i'd like to sell and I'd prefer them to be color coded so it is clear to whomever purchases my files what the design was meant to look like without confusion for them.
Most files I have purchased come with a separate file with the instructions indicating to the purchaser which color should be set to cut, engrave, score. I have some also where they add text on the file in a 4th color that the purchaser can opt to delete or ignore when sending it to the GF. Also, sometimes if the area for engraving is filled in on your file it will auto recognize that to engrave when imported. Shapes with just an outline and no fill should be recognized for cutting. There may be some complications getting it to auto recognize though if you have multiple layers of cutting and engraving on top of each other. One of the first two options is probably best, but experiment with your particular file. Hope this helps!
I wipe mine down gently with a warm damp rag to get most of it off the outside then clean as in the video for the internal parts. I will also wipe down the outside of the head again if needed at the end with an alcohol wipe.
thank you so much for this clear video. I have had my glowforge for many years and my husband always has to put the belt back on because I couldn't figure it out. Your video made it so easy!!!
@@LadyCrockettCrafts I can't thank you enough for how easy you made this for me. Thank you for all of your time for these videos. They are a lot easier to understand than the GF ones.
I probably missed something. When you did the name you have it in the red outline. I get that for where you want to cut or engrave. But when I do the subtract. I lose the red around the city and state. Any ideas?
Hi Lisa! Great video! Thank you! ImagR and Glowforge Pro newbie here. Getting married on Saturday and wanting to put engagement pics on 1/8 proof grade acrylic for a lighted table signs and have a couple of questions. 1) I like the results of the "see on material" views after using the software and reducing the gamma on settings but hat DPI, LPI and glowforge settings should I set for speed, power etc? 2) To mask or not to mask? 3) Which CO2 setting is best or should I select another? 4) Why did downloaded .png print the square and not just the cropped circle below? (Imag-r question). Thank you in advance for your speedy replies. It's crunch time! John
I've done everything identically to you, any tips on why when I saved it as an svg in Silhouette Studio and then uploaded to GF the MOM letters are just outlined? I made them the color black. I'd like for them to be engraved, but it looks like it's just going to engrave the outline of the letters...? Thanks!
Glowforge updated the user interface since this video. If it is showing outline in blue when you upload the file, then that should indicate it is going to engrave correctly. I suggest trying one before running a batch to be sure!
hello!! thank you for making this video! what if I am trying to fit two pieces that aren't square (i.e. abstract circle) how does kerf come into play with those types of shapes?
I am still having the dotted lines when uploading to GF. Where did you upload the LLAMA from, your library or your downloads? I am not sure what I am doing wrong. I am uploading from downloads already as SVG (purchased in Sih design store) and then I trace, delete the old one and then do your steps. Still dotted when I upload =( I am not getting the error that says it will be dotted but it still loads dotted.
The current Glowforge interface uses red dotted lines until you select a material. It doesn't sound like you are having an issue with the SVG itself, so make sure you've made a selection for your material then the lines will turn solid. Also make sure it is in the printable area, not too far off to the sides or it will show as dotted. Let me know!
Just a handy tip if you don't have an adapter that fits your hose perfectly. I see a lot of 3D printed ones that address this problem and I see a lot of videos of people using ugly aluminum tape by the pound. Don't tape it AFTER you connect, tape the male adapter end BEFORE with blue painters tape. The simple answer to most of these misfitting hose to coupler is just build up about 1/4" of blue painters tape on the male end of any duct adapter, now slide the hose over the tape and, poof, perfect fit. In many case, don't worry about the clamps, just put enough blue tape on the adapter to it fits super snug, but if you want to clamp, you have this nice semi solid seal of the blue tape. All this talk about gaping of the hose when you clamp is taken care of.
Great video and I was able to get the Glowforge squeaky clean. However, I had trouble putting the belt back on. Everyone in our family tried getting the belt back on following the official Glowforge instructions, and we were all unable to replace the belt. Finally found another video that shows you can get the belt back on by loosening the right wheel with an allen wrench, replacing the belt, and then tightening the right wheel again. That step can save a lot of headaches if you just can't get the belt back on after cleaning the fan. Otherwise, your video was great and gave me the confidence I needed to clean my Glowforge.
That's a method many people use also! If you ever have issues with your lines looking squiggly be sure to recheck that wheel to make sure it is keeping the right tension on the belt. That's the only issue I've heard of using that method. Whatever method works for you, it's such a relief to get it back on! 😅
I believe this project was the 1/8" which is the Medium proofgrade. I think it depends on how thick you want your final project to be or how many layers you want to stack. Thicker material or more layers means a thicker and heavier final project of course. Hope that helps!
Fabulous video! I really appreciate the detailed explanation. This has made me feel so much more comfortable with cleaning my GF. Can you please tell me - you mention to be careful of print head when removing and re-inserting the crumb tray. Is there a reason why not to remove the print head first?
I like to go ahead and remove the crumb tray so that I have a place to put my print head once I take it off and also so that I can continue from there to go ahead and remove the platform to get to the air assist fan. That was the order of the glowforge manual suggested so I've continued to do it that way. Of course there are times when I just do a quick clean of the print head lenses and for that I do not remove the crumb tray. I hope this answers your question! 😀
Yes! See what look you like the most, but I have used oil based paint pens to fill in the engraving from the back side. I have also applied vinyl to the front before. I've seen other ppl use resin too
Thanks for watching! No, I still haven't gotten into doing photo engraves. I'm not sure if this would be the best material for it or not. If you experiment, let me know! 😁
This video was a lifesaver for me. I’m new to this craft and was having such a hard time figuring out how to make all of the different layers work properly. Thank you so much!
Hello thank you so much for this video. I created a great ornament of my grandson recently by "HAPPENSTANCE" and could never create it again. I have a few request but I don't remember what to do. I have a question tho, does this apply to pictures that have a lot of background images as well?
If I'm understanding correctly, yes. If you use a photo you will likely need a separate cut file. If you have GF premium you can create the cut outline there.
haha well at this point it hadn't been used that much is the reason it's so clean :) I don't have a good method to recommend unfortunately. I know there are several methods floating around the GF community though. The chore is in cleaning it without causing rust and I don't want to recommend anything that I haven't tested multiple times.
Great video! Can’t wait to try it out. I have a question though….I received my Pro in April of this year (2021) and my top speed for engraving is listed as 1000. In this video your top speed was (Beta) 4000. Maybe they decided not to release this upgrade to the general user?
The file type determines the max engrave speed with raster bitmap files maxing at 4000 and vector files max at 1000. The faster engrave speeds will also reduce your useable space so keep that in mind too if you need to engrave over a large area. Thanks for watching!
Awesome!! I am glad my tutorials helped you make your decision 😁 Also, please be sure to use a discount code from a Glowforge owner to save $500 on your Pro. If you don't have one from a friend already, you can use mine and yes you can still apply a code even if you've already bought it (that's what I had to do). So exciting and welcome to the Glowforge World!
You Rock !!! thanks for putting out this video , quick question so are we suppose to keep track of the usage for every cut so we know when 4j0 hours is ?
If you follow the 40 hrs they recommend, then yes you have to keep up with it on your own because unfortunately there is no feature currently to see your runtime. I usually do it when my cut fails to go all the way through or otherwise every few weeks.
Is the I Love Glitter font the only one that you can use to do the attached heart? Or is there another hack for using with other fonts to get the attached heart?