If anyone is curious as to why the thumbnail shows gray laces (but the video does not), it's because I didn't receive them until after the video was finished.
Great video! I have the Spruce and Cumulus kudu from Parkhurst and the asfalto horsebutt. Love the brand. I'd love to try one of the stitchdown versions, and this review was very informative.
I like the shape of the new last. I, too, have been a little frustrated with availability. I have a pair of Grant Stones in the Leo last. How would the Leo last compare to the 618 last, in your opinion?
The Leo is more like the 602M last, but with a lower instep. The 618 wider than the Leo at the ball, but has a narrower heel for sure. Instep room is similar to the Leo. I take the same size in each of those lasts. That's my opinion.
618 has a tighter heel and waist than the Leo imo. Forefoot is wider than D width Leo, but the quarters on the Allen stitchdown are smaller than the Diesel and especially the Edward. So when laced up they don't reach the point of touching which is great for my low instep and skinny ankles. I prefer 8.5D in GS Leo, heel is very slightly loose, forefoot is just that bit snug which I like. I have also 8D Leo, but those are too short and snug at the ball, but heel is nice. So with Parkhurst, based on Andrew's sizing advice, I went 9. Was worried at first that it might be too big. But yeah just a day of wear and I could tell that this last really suited my feet. The low toe volume, snug waist and heel made the extra width a good thing. Secure yet no squishing of the toes. Not much more I could ask for. It fit so well imo that I purchased another 618 Allen Stitchdown. So will have the Tempesti Veg Tan and Inferno Rambler
Very nice review. I just received my Inferno Rambler pair today and yes this new last fits a little wide but I don’t mind. I wish, I would’ve known this before and ordered these a 1/2 size smaller.
@@chalkboardshoes Not yet but I’ll take that back, they fit perfect actually. I just wore them around the house and they fit great. The smell of the leather is amazing!
@Will-yp6ny yes I have B width foot and sized down a full size. There's some wiggle room in the ball, but with the waist and heel so secure, the slight bit of room at the toes is actually welcomed. Once the boot molds and creases to your feet, it's just a super comfortable boot. Mine are the tempesti veg tan which is very supple. I'm waiting for the inferno rambler as well.
Great comparison of the two lasts. I have one of the prototype stitchdown models from earlier this year but that last was still very much a work in progress. The sizing was very generous. Even going a full size down I'm still looking for ways to take up some of the extra volume (kilties and thicker leather laces so far). The 602M fits me better than the 602 which I have to wear thinner socks with. I think I would really like this final version of the 618.
Interesting. I saw Bootlosophy's video on the last in progress and I could tell it looked quite different from the final version. Having said that, I do fit better into the 602M last as well.
If you think Diesel’s are heavy, try the Brass Boot. They’re over 2 pounds 😅 Your take on GS’s being tanks, stiff and needing tight lacing is spot on. You have to cinch the lacing tight all the way up and let the leather yield to your instep. I own an Edward in Color 8 and wore them with a navy and grey suit everyday. They broke in beautifully. The weight is still there. Not like kicking around in my Higgins Mills. But I still prefer the heftier leather and solid build construction of GS. Really enjoy the great detail and pacing of your review videos. Exceptional!!
I like your videos, but there are some biased and incorrect information in this one.. Kudu leather is definitely softer and more supple than CXL leather. I have several kudu shoes/boots, and they are softer and lighter than the CXL, and required no break-in. I'm also not a fan of your and other American vloggers' efforts to idealize the construction of GS boots. It only shows incompetence and activism. The fact that all parts of the shoe are leather does not have to be a sign of a higher quality GS shoe or their construction compared to e.g. AE Higgins mill boots. The manufacturer combines various materials in order to produce a shoe with such features that he knows from experience that his customer demands and appreciates. Not everything is motivated to save on materials. By the way, the leather is heavier and less flexible also due to the fact that the skin of an older animal is used. Such leather is of lower quality and is also cheaper. And GS does not provide such information anywhere. For example, the leathers that GS used for their Edward Natural Minerva or Cap toe British Tan Calf boots are very hard/stiff, inflexible, and even after 1-3 years of wear, they do not soften and are not really comfortable. I wouldn't be surprised if it was a second grade hide from an old animal. In these cases, I don't really care how "quality" the construction of the shoe is. Most of the shoes/boots I have are from Tricker`s, AE, GS, Loake and Sanders, but I have also tried (and returned) boots/shoes from other manufacturers (see below). And it is interesting that boots from Tricker`s and other English manufacturers are mostly lighter than GS, while their construction is just as strong, they are tankers, using the highest quality materials. I feel that you American vloggers only present popular manufacturers with strong marketing, thus limiting yourself to comparing only about 10 American manufacturers (GS, AE, Caswell, Parkhurst, Alden, Nicks, Red Wing, Truman, theoakstreet.., or low-quality Thursdayboot ).. Under this influence, you often spread simplified stories, for example, obsession with the stitch density, all-leather construction, singing the praises of CXL leather, etc. It would not hurt to look, for example, at English or Italian production, and recognize their great tradition and quality. Anyway, thanks for your video reviews and fingers crossed!
Well, I will say that I am a huge fan of British constructed shoes and boots. I have been trying to get my hands on Trickers for a while. I know they are made as well any other company out there. It's just hard to find something in my size that is available for a reasonable price. Having said that, I do have a video in the works on a Trickers model, but we'll see if it happens. I have several videos I'm working on right now. Thanks for watching even if you don't agree with my opinions (I never said my videos are unbiased). :)
Thanks. I'm currently looking into Trickers a lot. They have some interesting options. Price is tricky, but occasionally good deals can be found. I almost ordered a Robert in gray suede last year that was on clearance, but it sold out.
I saw that, but I really want a gray suede (not the sand). But I want to ask you, is the Robert last very roomy at the instep and ball? There's a pair on Ebay in gray suede, but it's 1/2 size larger than my usual size. It's a very good price, but not sure if the fit will be too large.
@@chalkboardshoes The honest answer is I don’t know. My shoe size is UK 9 and my tricker Stows fit perfectly, as my feet are flat and wide, with plenty of room at the instep and ball. I do believe that there will be plenty of room at the instep and ball and that perhaps the 1/2 size larger than your normal size maybe too big for you. Trickers in general fit my wide feet really well.
Yeah, if the AE store was going to make the effort of helping you get a lighter pair, that’s on them to make sure they have it right, even if some time goes by. If it sold, they should have told you so.
Another excellent video! When revenue is low, employees lie to make the sale. Here's a thought. Are you willing to pay AE $700 USD for 1980's shoe quality standards? There are more frugal buyers in the marketplace than the buyers willing to spend $700 USD without hesitation. Demands by buyers effect how a company will adjust itself to survive. Mike
Good points. I don't think most would be willing to spend that kind of money now. However, some people would. Alden still gets a lot of business at their prices. But there's no way AE could produce the level of quality needed with the current high output.
@@chalkboardshoes I think AE can still make 1980's shoe quality through their customization shop. Currently charging $525 USD for suede and smooth leather. This made-to-order method can reach the buyers willing to spend money for quality. In addition, they can still mass produce your favourite shoe (dress sneakers). Just kidding about the dress sneakers remark. :-) Alden is different can of worm. My size is not in their inventory. The Seattle shop for Alden never got back to me, so I took my business somewhere else. Good to have options.
Love your videos! I have a pair of 1992 Richmond Burgundy long wings that were practically brand new for $25! I absolutely adore them. Thank you for all knowledge in regard to Allen Edmonds as it has taught me a lot. I have about 5 pairs at the moment! I tend to look for good used condition shoes on places like eBay as, even though I’m only 23, I prefer traditional welted shoes whereas AE’s current catalog is slowly turning into more cemented constructed shoes.
What an absolute score, bro. Congrats. I have a pair of late 80s McAllisters in the black polished cobbler and I can say that they even fit a little “better” than modern counterparts.
@@chalkboardshoes Yes, exactly. I just sold 2 pair of contemporary McAllisters on eBay (10eee) because they felt too tight. Totally weird. I have other pairs from the same period that fit fine. Definitely more variance.
If you find something you want and you don't jump on it when it's available, you lose. Waiting until the next sale shouldn't be a strategy if getting something so hard to find is at issue. I agree completely that the store shouldn't jerk you around and/or lie, but you also should have bought what you wanted when you knew they had them. You can lighten them up with some acetone to strip off much of the factory finish and re-dye them in the shade you actually want. It's not hard nor expensive to do. Only when you get into patinas does it get challenging. That having been said, I'm done with Allen Edmonds dress shoes. The last pair of Strands that I bought were atrocious. Not factory seconds and not on sale either. I bought a pair of navy blue shell cordovan Strands and a pair of suede Strandmoks. The Strandmoks were fine, but the shell cordovan Strands looked like they were made by an amateur. Flaws in the cordovan, crooked stitching and crooked seams. It's unfortunate, but they just aren't the company they were years ago and their quality and workmanship have gone down the toilet. I have several pairs of Allen Edmonds I got new back in the 80's and 90's when they were known as a true luxury brand and something any well dressed man would aspire to own. As you pointed out with your 1987 McAllisters, they are no longer the same shoes. I actually do like their new line of casual shoes with the sneaker soles (the slip-on's and not the oxford styles) and I have several pairs of them in both suede and leather. I particularly like the Randolf slip on sneakers in both the penny loafer form and the bit loafer form. Have them both in a few colors. Same with the Hayes and Sebastian. I'm completely satisfied with the quality of these shoes and they are hands down 10 times better than the similar looking offerings from Cole Haan, Aldo or other similar brands. I also bought them on sale. Doubt I would pay full retail for them, but they are worth it when they are $250 or below. I paid less than $200 for all of mine but 1 pair. I have switched to TLB Mallorca, Carmina and Crockett & Jones for my dress shoes (oxfords and loafers) now. TLB Mallorca, in particular, is a major bargain when you can have a pair of their main-line shoes made to order with your choice of leather or suede and your choice of soles, stitching, etc all for just over $400 and the Artista line for under $500, plus the quality & finishing are downright amazing. I think Alden had the right idea.......keep quality the same and raise the prices. It would be an interesting exercise to see you do a side-by-side comparison of your 1987 McAllisters and a current day pair to show the changes and obvious differences in quality. It really shows in the stitching and finishing.
@@chalkboardshoes That and they just look off to me. Almost flat. I still like them but wish they had just the basic eyelets that come one heritage type boots
My brown CXL Diesels are super broken in and I have no heel slip. They are my best all day, 20,000 step a day boots. I have a new pair of Vibergs that may beat them, once they break in, but GS is incredible value. I think the all leather construction just takes time. Totally worth it. The only GS product that I have that is resisting break in is the tan calf cap toe boot. That is a stern leather. My saddle tan Diesels broke in very well. The forest kudu cap toe can pinch my toes but I have that issue with most cap toes. I just think it’s a pinch point for me.
@@chalkboardshoes no, they call it Crimson, but I believe that is just Horween Brown CXL. I have a couple things in natty CXL and I just don’t find it to be a very versatile color. Whereas I can hike in mine and brush them off and go to a nice dinner.
Totally agree with the heel slip, I have the black cxl with leather outsoles. i really have to have them snug. If it's too loose my foot shakes around and if too tight it's just uncomfy
I have the same 2 pairs of Grant Stone boots as shown & discussed in this video, the Edward & Diesel boots in Natural Minerva & Navy CXL respectively. My GS Field boots are in dark burgundy Kudu. I ordered the Edward first, 1/2 size down from my Brannock size and they pinched in the toes, had to exchange for 1/2 size larger, my true Brannock. I ordered the Field boots next in my true Brannock but they were significantly loose. I could not exchange them since they were purchased as a B Grade but they fit well using a foam insole and thick socks. The Kudu leather was soft & supple. It's odd that you found them stiffer than CXL. I have had no difficulty or discomfort breaking in any of them, although that's still ongoing. In conclusion, FWIW the GS Floyd last (Field, Brass boots) is considerably more roomy than their Leo last (Edward & Diesel) and it was a mistake to assume that I needed the same size in each type. I purchased both the Field and Diesel boots as B grade and it is virtually impossible to identify any defects in either. GS B Grades are superb value at around $240/pr., just make sure you know your correct sizing as they are final sale.
I want to mention one thing - you said no other manufacturer puts as much leather in the construction as Grant Stone does at this price range. I would argue Parkhurst is comparable, and maybe even better in some regards (e.g. external heel counter cover is actually a cover).
I'm surprised you found the Kudu tougher to break in than CXL. Both the reverse Snuff and Storm Kudus were more supple than CXL to me, although all are quite soft and comfortable, especially compared to GS's calf and Minerva offerings. Only the suede and Kangaroo options are softer in my experience. Haven't tried the bison but I hear that is also very soft.
Leo is one of the most comfortable lasts for me. And GS us one of my top 3 favourite brands , solid bang for the buck. Especially their B grades which are brilliant. I have multiple pairs from GS and pretty much enjoy all of them.
Wait you said this video was a sponsored video but then you also said #3 @ 2:13 you said “is this my favorite pair of GS boot you bought so far.” I’m confused. Did you buy these or were they given to you? Not a big deal but I had to play it a few times because I was confused. Thanks in advance!
Good review. For me it all about the last. GS is not best for me. Only boot I need E width to be comfortable. Probably my fault but I can't stop my tan Essex diesels from squeaking in the sole after got them wet.
@@chalkboardshoes I know. Guess all feet are different. Big toe gets pushed in on leo 10D but a 55 lasted Nicks in 10 C is good. I only buy one brand of boot now. Not Nicks.
@@chalkboardshoes Rose Anvil is doing a collaboration with them, however, I don't know much either. I just bought a pair of Higgins Mills in the light brown suede and the Landons in nubuck. So I won't be making any additional purchases for a while...I do love the Trumans in Olive Wax. Please have a great Sunday!
The appearance of the last is as important as the comfort. AE is as common as Wolverine 1000 mile, Alden, and GS. There is no excuse for an ugly last when these mass produced companies can do it.
HELLO, FYI, TRUMAN BOOTS HAS A BEAUTIFUL, OLIVE WAXED FLESH AVAILABLE NOW...slightly different style and a cap toe, however, i think they are excellent boots.
I just bought a pair of shell cap toe derbies from Moulded Shoe on the Modified last. It fits well for my spade shaped foot. You are absolutely right about the Barrie compared to the Modified. I had to actually go true to size on the Barrie because when I went 0.5 down, my toes were crushed, the heel was a bit tight and the shoe just felt short overall. I am glad you have pointed this out because it flies against common thought around sizing the Barrie.
Interesting. I noticed that too about the discussion about the Barrie, but my experience is similar to yours. It works for me 1/2 size down, but true to size also works most of the time for me. I definitely cannot get away with he Modified in my usual size.
I forgot to mention that this version of the boot contains 2 speed hooks. I much prefer having speed hoots on a boot to none at all. Just want to make sure people are aware of this improvement.
The Lisbon had some changes at some point, like shifting the quarters a bit, so while it could be sizing variation I think the Lisbon 2.0 is supposed to have more room at the instep than the 1.0
The most noticeable change on the Lisbon II from the original Lisbon design is the stitching pattern. The one-piece backstay has been replaced with a short backstay and counter cover, while the cut top of the shaft has been replaced with a rolled top. The quarters have been resized to provide more room between them when tied, which allows people with low volume or narrow feet to more securely tie the boots without the quarters touching. The Celastic counter and toe puff have been replaced by leather board. The steel shank thickness has also been increased for improved support and durability.
The insole is the low quality split portion of the hide. It is NOT fibre nor leather board. Though there is an easy solution. Just go to your cobbler and let him cut and put a soft chromexcell insole on top of it or some thinner high quality full grain soft leather. It won’t wear down then and it will be even more comfortable. The midsole and heel stack is leather board.
Yes, I wish I could redo this video, but I did mention it in a later video that I made a mistake. But I like Alden insoles for their feel, so it doesn't bother me.
