Not to be a dick buddy rolls but what good is that,, acrylic is far too brittle The X-Max alone will break the basket not to mention the weight of the motor, I'm confused
@@MrM_Full-Send The variable shape surround is the almost the same as a cone/surround TC worked on and made but never patented. Quite a few were sold on forums and stuff. Basically the old high roll but ribbed a bit differently that the usual ribbed surrounds you see. Theres even a sub for sale locally with the tc surround. Almost wanna buy it just to say hey this was done in the early 2000s just not patented.
@@666nacirema666 References as prior art? TS was a true innovator 😢 I’m ashamed at the lack of credit and respect he gets for his contributions from the bass community as a whole. As a side note, Making things bigger and modifying something someone else designed is not designing, innovating or engineering 🤷♂️IMO.
Good video, but I concern myself with the continuous blowing off a what looks like a really dirty cone without any cover over the coil pocket.. could just be stuck on crap idk, Liked the video great job with the stitching especially the last stitch being a difft color. For some reason, I really liked that extra little something that I feel showed a bit more care in the assy side.. again the Older HX2 15's were beast.. I have 15" T2's now, they sit in the closet, but still miss the HX2's.
I had the prior HX2 model in 15"s and loved them!! They were absolutely beast for the time, on an 800a2 on each.. beat the shit out of the daily, without issue!
How much of a difference does power really make in a subwoofer design? For an 18 inch subwoofer for example What if you created a larger motor with a 10 inch voice coil made from full carbon fiber for the strength and made a 10k Subwoofer full Carbon Fiber and Nomex Spiders. Increase stroke capability to 6inches. Would it truly be able to make 150db with .5% distortion from a single subs? 3db per 1k watts. Going off a basic Dayton UM18 with 1k RMS can hit 122db with one so 3db per 1k watts would be 150db. Thoughts?
well… it depends i guess… efficiency is also a consideration up to a point… dB and power are intertwined. at lower dB and wattage a more efficient sub that isn’t able to handle as much power will be louder but at a certain point more power is required to overcome the fluid dynamic limitations of the environment etc at that point, more power is required to produce higher dB in order to handle more power efficiency is inevitably sacrificed. the 10” VC is heavier and is subsequently less efficient. in order for a cone assembly to achieve 6” of excursion its maximum frequency would be extremely low. the faster the cone moves (at the same power) the less excursion will be observed. IMO is all about balancing goals and variables to achieve a desired outcome 🤷♂️
@MrM_Full-Send Awesome thanks for the reply and info. Keep learning more and more since finding your channel. I know a lot generally but the fine details I always love to learn. Was thinking of dipping my hand into the subwoofer design world. I got these two Harbottle Carbon 18 drivers which are extremely efficient 3k RMS from 5hz-100hz but per Harbottle they have two other drivers which are even more efficient 5hz - 150hz and tighter and 4400rms but cost even more. They cost double basically. I thought maybe I could create a comparable sub but more powerful. 🍻
would you be interested in selling a recone kit for a 10" type r like this one? i have one that makes l ittle noise due to coil and need to rebuild it and i like this idea good job!
That is a fantastic idea . I have not done spaced spiders unless it’s been with a drop in recone but that’s a great idea is to order a triple joint ring to add an extra landing
I'm replacing the voice coil in a 15" Dayton Audio Single 4 ohm 800 watt rms 1600 max Reference sub that has a gap measurement of 63.6mm inner and 69.5mm outer, 58 mm deep. The voice coil that came out of it was pretty messed up but measured 64.2 inner, 67.5 outer, winding height 35mm, and the total height was 78mm, but that may be off a little because of how badly damaged it was. My issue has been finding a voice coil that works because they're all either too big or too small, and I've looked all over the planet for one. Even eBay, Lord of Bass, and Dayton Audio themselves don't sell the parts to these woofers and my best option has been getting one made in China, but they want me to buy a minimum of 25 of them and I only need 1. The spec sheet says they're 64mm voice coils but that's the only measurement it gives, and it's all anyone can tell me the measure. The problem is there are no voice coils out there that fit its description. Unless it's a 63.6 mm voice coil but I don't see how when that would be rubbing up against the center of the motor structure. Got any advice?
unfortunately it’s kind of limited to what’s available. if you can measure the pole vent that would be the best way to correctly identify an appropriate coil ID in this case. i would need to check my shims but it i think an offset of as little as 0.15mm is adequate so a 64.2 mm ID coil would fit a 63.9mm pole vented motor (2x the offset)
@@MrM_Full-Send That's what I was worried about. Dayton Audio says it's a 64mm voice coil, but there are no 64mm or 64.2, .5, .8 voice coils. There are a few randos on eBay, but they're only 8 ohms with a coil height of only 18mm, and mine was a 4 ohm (resistance 3.4 ohm) 37mm height. Do you know Patrick from Robot Undergound? He's stripping down a voice coil from a dual to a single because the dual makes it bigger than the gap dimensions permit. This is the only option I have left besides buying a large quantity of them from China, or from Lord of Bass, but that's not really an option when I only need 1. If you find one, let me know, I'd be happy to still buy it from you.
@@Paulscole3 Patrick is very smart and he is an incredible sub builder. I have never considered removing the outer winding but conceptually there is no reason it wouldn’t work
@@johndoe..THE_REAL_JOHN-DOE yes. not from the website but the owner still sells them 🤣. motors too. the website wasn’t generating enough revenue to justify keeping it operating… it will be back 😉
I have a Type R that makes noise when I turn on the power. I thought it might be the defective coil, but it doesn't scrape. Could there be a problem with the cone or the spiders? Have you ever seen anything similar?
@@GabrielFlorian-hn6nr there are a couple possible places. it would be unusual but the spider flange could be rattling against the basket...or Less of a plastic sound but common with type r, the surround sometimes separates from the basket.
@@MrM_Full-Send I'm thinking about taking it apart and putting it back together again, checking the possible defects you told me about and seeing if it works normally. I hope it resolves. Thanks a lot for the help!
@@GabrielFlorian-hn6nr before you pull it apart. free air test it with a sine wave, if you can then try to locate the source. sometimes you don’t need to do a complete breakdown. could save yourself some work
Bro you should do a video on how to measure sub accurately to order parts for a recone.I think a lot of people miss that.Cone height.coil height. Coil diameter.spider material.progressive or linear
I got a alpine swr-1043d 10" and it needs a new surround. I looked at lord of bass and saw theres a "big roll" and "tall roll" surround. What should i get?
Question, how does the new power T1 compare to the old Power HX2? Like if I have dual 10’s T1 against a single 12 Power HX2, would the sq be better and louder on the newer Power T1 series?
i cannot answer this question with any certainty. i like the old ones perhaps due to nostalgia 🤷♂️. looser suspension but 2 10’s should be louder than a single 12… more cone area🤷♂️
I just purchased 2 pioneer premier 2007 models (subwoofers) on marketplace,the person told me one of them had a blown voice coil and was repaired by a local.We did the woofer test and came out fine. My worries are that the original voice coil was apparently a titanium one and not sure what he used also comparing them both at home,i peeped to look where the voice coil was sitting and was not at the same height as the other subwoofer🤔is it normal? Will it level out with time or was it installed incorrectly what do you think?
i would say the new voice coil is almost definitely aluminum. as far as height of VC goes, there could be two issues. 1 the height was not set correctly and so the Windings are not properly centred on the motor top-plate (this will be unlikely to correct over time) or 2 the wrong voice coil was used and does not have the correct winding height but is centred properly. either way the person who repaired it did it incorrectly🤷♂️. it should be built to match original as close as possible IMO
@@MrM_Full-Send thanks for clarifying! Man that sucks.. I've been looking to get these subs for a very long time.. I would love to get these repaired but it's a question of finding the right person to get the job done correctly 😞
unfortunately I have only rebuilt the one. if you can remove the basket and the motor bolts on then you can attach a different basket you just need to match the bolt pattern
@@kevint5440 I ve never tried. They are considered dangerous goods so some carriers may refuse to accept if I don’t hold a business account with them. (Fedex) not sure of cost but getting them here was $97 usd plus $136 cdn for customs 🤯.
my biggest concern is the basket. I would have used ti v2’s with 6 spokes instead of the 4 spokes v1’s but… they were not an option when I was ordering parts 😒
I only do car speakers 🤣. yes it is the same method for all speakers however there are some variations for different motor styles. overhung and neodymium are a bit different. same principle but additional items to consider
@@Saeidcaraudio the enclosure is critical. if not ideal start there. typically Subs are designed to optimize performance within the ability of the parts being used. this means there are limited opportunities to increase their performance. Not always the case but more often than not.
we have a basket and motor. i need to spool the VC, make a cone and surround and spider. got back burnered for other projects but we still intend to finish this monster
you need to know what basket and cone you are using. and motor to figure out where the coil will be positioned and where the bottom of the cone is. then you can determine how long the former needs to be… basket has two critical heights. surround seat to spider seat and spider seat to mounting flange. add the two basket heights. then subtract cone height. this gives you the distance from the motor top plate to the underside of the cone (provided you are not using spacers). take that number and add x-max and motor top plate thickness. now you have the distance from the bottom of the voice coil to the bottom of the cone. add 3/4” to 1” so your former is long enough to pass through the cone and have enough length to glue the cone to. contact me on FB or Instagram or email and i can send a picture to clarify this explanation
i’m not sure if they exist but i would start with Springfield Speaker Repair. if they don’t have any you can usually find all of the parts you need on Lord of Bass
Hey man, loving the way you go about your videos and sharing your knowledge. Be nice to holler at you if it’s possible, I’ve got a few things I need a hand with.
Awesome video, i was looking at either the Sa v3 8 or x8 v3 subs from directronix. You think the x8 v3 is way better sub then the sa v3 8 or jus handles more power basically? I heard the sa v3 8s sound better more musical then the x8. Im looking to put 4 ported under the seat of my truck. I have 3.5cu net to work with. Also i seen options with the x8 v3 you can get the yellow v2 spider or red v3 alomg with v2 cone or v3 cone, is there a major difference going with v2 spider cone then v3? Gonna have a Salt 3 pushing which ever 4 subs once i decide. Trying to hit atleast 140dbs
Sa will be more efficient but your maximum output will be limited by power handling. i’m a big fan of the bullet profile surround (V2 i believe). sundown always improves something with each version. not always based on necessity.. without evaluating each component between versions i cannot really say what would make the most sense for reaching your goals. ideally comparing the ts parameters and purchasing whichever works best for your application
@MrM_Full-Send do the soft parts need to be cut through in order to remove the magnet/motor and then a recone is required or can the magnet/motor be realigned without destroying the soft parts? The sub is a wolfram hg 12 And I'm located in the Toronto area.
@@akuma4u well… it can be done depending on whether or not the shift crushed the coil… if the cone assembly is locked as a result of the shift that would indicate that the top plate has shifted towards the pole vent and the coil probably did not survive… i can usually reuse everything else and just replace the coil and maybe the spider. reuse cone and dust cap… but hard to say for sure
@@MrM_Full-Sendeverything is seized up solid. Where r u located? I had a buddy recone this using directronix parts I believe he used the sundown u cone and I forgot which spider but it sounded absolutely amazing! Sadly it lasted a week until this magnet shifted.
@@MrM_Full-Send figures as much. maybe i can watch enough videos to rebuild a 12" alpine type r lol. idk if it would be worth sending to you for repair or not. wdy thing lol? thanks for the response
Hi! Thank you for what you are doing! The only source of information on the repair of subwoofers of this type! There is a question, did you have to disassemble the magnetic system on swr 1022d? How can I remove the aluminum protective cover of the magnet? On a working subwoofer. I want to reduce the installation depth of the subwoofer for installation in a stealth box.
I have never removed the protective cover from a type r. my guess would be that the vented disk on the back is glued to the ferrite but i’m not sure 🤔.
