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Love your videos! I’ve been following your directions pretty faithfully, but I’m still having trouble removing the edger lines. We did 36 grit on each drum and edger, followed by 60 grit on each. I’ve been trying to remove the edger lines and it doesn’t seem possible. The scraper hasn’t removed anything (?) and going back to 36 grit on the Makita also didn’t remove them. What did we do wrong and can we fix it?
Hi Sarah Whenever possible try to start edgering with a higher grit, like 60. You may need to use more paper but it will be easier to remove those marks. Since you started with 36, then 60 you could do 100 grit next, realize the abrasive on 100 grit breaks down very quickly on hardwood and continued use with paper that has worn out abrasive will result in heating of the floor and the wood will turn purple or black once it heats up. You will need to spend a fairly long time using a palm sander to remove the edger lines but it will remove them. I am assuming it's red oak you're working with, if its a harder wood like maple you'll need to be patient and thorough when palm sanding to remove all the parks. Good luck.
Thanks so much! I don’t think we have this scraper at our Home Depot. I think I bought an anvil wood and paint scraper. Looks like the both have the convex edge? I think maybe I just don’t know how to use it. I’m trying to get rid of edger marks, however we are not staining so I’m not sure how much of this is important. I do need to get rid of the finish from the corners and doorways. I found you videos very helpful! I used the drum sander and have no chatter marks that I can see. Now we are going to rent the OBS-18 for the final grits.
So, since I have tongue and groove red oak unfinished floor boards, I deduced to go that route since I'm poor. It's ok not to use a foam or waterproof paper of some kind underneath the new section. Since I am planning on using glue and pin nails, I may just go without--like you did?, Thanks for your generosity
I am dealing with a floor that looks just like this...the old pine boards and the mess all over it. I've already removed as much tar as I could with contractor's solvent and am now starting the sanding. It's good to kind of see what I am going to end up with. This is the best video I've seen that deals with my particular issues. Thank you!
I had the local sawmill (in East Texas) cut 6"x10' tongue and groove pine flooring. They kiln dried the wood and I installed it in a 100 year old building (I removed the original, damaged, oak flooring). The room measures 12'x30' exactly. The floor installation was completed by me and I had a professional carpenter sand, stain and poly the floor. The stain was applied one day, and within 24 hours the first coat of Minwax super fast drying Polyurethane for floors (semi-gloss) was applied by pouring the poly on the floor and spreading it with an applicator. The instructions state that you can re-apply a second coat of poly in 4 hours. The first coat was blotchy, a little too much here and not enough there. The second coat was applied one day later and it had the same splotchy issues. It was easy to see where the second coat was too thick and too thin. A third coat was applied the next day and it took forever to dry (four weeks and it never fully dried). Also, it developed large bubbles and soft spots where the poly was applied too thick and the outer layer was somewhat hard, but the first and second coat were still gummy and liquidy underneath. Finally, after waiting one month, the floor was walked on by hundreds of people during a grand opening for this building, and the polyurethane did not fair well. The large bubbles popped and the poly went everywhere, also the poly tore up in several places. I need to remove the poly coat and start over. What method would you recommend for removing 3 layers of poly coat? I don't plan to re-stain the wood. Thanks.
Sorry to hear of this. There are several things concerning to me..1st off I don't use that product as I've used it in the past and it didn't dry in 4 hours as they claimed, it also wouldn't harden properly but rather felt rubbery even after a couple days so I couldn't screen sand it between coats...also several years ago I was called out to correct a job by another contractor as the homeowner told me the guy poured a gallon of the Minwax semi on the floor and simply used an applicator to spread it telling the homeowner that the poly will "find it's own level". She freaked out and fired him, then called me. When I checked it out there were some areas 3/8" thick and other areas less than 1/16" so it didn't "find its own level" as he told her it would. Also you're in Texas so I imagine at this time of year it's at least 100F, and likely humid..the poly won't dry properly in high humidity. Also if the floor was stained first its integral to do a white cloth transfer check the following day after staining - preferably 24 hours later. Press a white cloth onto the stained floor, if any of the stain transfers onto the cloth you can't apply poly. The stain needs to be totally dry before applying poly. You can try screen sanding it first to abrade the existing finish, you may need to manually so you don't go through the poly and remove the stain. Try starting with 180 screen if its not working, or gumming up to quickly, you can drop down to 120 or lower, if that fails you'll need to sand it all off and redo the entire job. Good luck and thanks for watching!!!
@@HardwoodFloorRefinishing101 Thank you - the contractor said he would "fix it" and I just wanted to get another professional opinion about what should be done. The poly was applied to the floor the first week in April, 2024. It has completely dried as of now. Some areas are flaked up like corn flakes or potato chips, and other areas look like moon craters where the bubbles burst. There are many shoe and boot prints in the poly, as it was soft and squishy on the grand opening day - we had to open - it couldn't be helped. Thank you for your advice. I'll follow-up with an up-date once we get the problem corrected. One final question: if you don't like the Minwax product, then what poly coat do you recommend? Thanks.
After sanding with square buff i get pretty small pigtails. You have to look closely to see them. Is this acceptable since you dont seem them whike standing? Probably even after sanding, you wouldn't see them unless you look close. Thanks
Basically if he buff or use square buffs that type of wood flooring is very soft which will buff off the stain and finish to much so doing it by hand is the go here👍
You are the man you explain shit awesome. Just wondering what grit sandpaper you orbital sand with to smooth the whole floor out before staining and finishing? Again great video.
LOVE your videos! When buffing after a drum sander with 36/60/80 on red oak, what grit do you use with the large buffer to smooth the floor prior to varnish? 100 or 120 sanding screen?
I normally finish sand with 80 on the OBS 18, but you can finish with 100 or 120 if you like. I screen sand 220 between coats to get a smooth as glass finish. Thanks for watching!
Wow, what a surprise at the end, looks terrific. My floor is pine in the kitchen and red oak dining room. Removed the wall and was just searching the world over to find a way to cut both floor off with a jig, This is an idea worth considering
If the surface is smooth you could, however a light sand with a 220 grit screen is recommended. Vacuum then wipe with swiffer or damp cloth before next coat. Always follow manufacturers directions on label. Thanks for watching!
I never pour water based onto the floor in puddles like this video shows. You are asking for trouble. If the finish seeps down between the planks and can cause the edges to curl. I always use a bucket and dip my roller in the finish. I’ve never had problems with the finish drying on the side of the bag.
Thank you! The first guy I spoke with for the parts of my house that have original century wood told me it couldn’t be refinished and I needed new. It’s in rough shape and is pine but it felt off. He pointed to a few spots where someone had face nailed. 🤦🏻♀️. Thanks for the videos and education!
Great work! We've been refinishing our pine floor. We have sanded and stained and on the weekend we applied the first coat of water based poly. Unfortunately we ran out of poly part way through the application. If we finish the first coat, screen sand and finish 2 more complete coats with screen sanding in-between do you think you will still be able to see a dry line where we ran out of poly on the coat?
When I stain furniture I always apply the stain liberally, let is soak a few minutes, then remove the excess with a clean rag so that there isn't really any stain on the surface. If I ever let it sit too long the excess stain on the surface is very difficult to remove. When staining floors, what technique is used to keep that from happening. I didn't really catch any removal of excess step, but maybe I overlooked it. Any advice?
Saturate the floor using penetrating oil based stain, remove stain with sponge mop and rags if needed. Please see this video ... ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-E7_JUpwW0NU.html ... for complete stain process...thanks for watching!!
I’ve been using loba for years .. there is no need for the bag in the bucket . Just use the bucket and won’t have any drying problems..also the 120 micron roller is designed to absorb the proper amount for applying a 36 square ft area .. much better results ..imo
