Short adventures taking "ran when parked" cars back to road use, mileage tests, conventional improvements. Not to mention my own dead cars that deserve to be roadworthy. Ideally pre 1965 vehicles but there will be exceptions along the way.
Thank you for this! I just bought my second corvair and it STALLED when i would come to a light. Drove GREAT on the hwy but once I was decelerating it would just die. I am thinking it could be as simple as an idle adjustment. Any suggestions would sure be helpful!- laurie
Often it is something small but on Corvairs a small vacuum leak will do that either on the balance tubes or one of the caps on the carbs.. But the carbs need to be balanced per the shop manual. Then adjust the idle speed screws.
The spacer you removed from under the carburetor is not a factory it is a California mandated smog retrofit kit that also included a temperature controlled vacuum advance. At one time defeating the systems was a game for California car guys.
I didn't think you could mix synthetic and DOT-3 brake fliud(?) I worked with a gent for 35yrs and always flushed his '28 and '51 Packards with green rubbing alcohol. And then back with DOT-5 synthetic. Never had a problem. And these cars would sit for YEARS! And run the Amsoil 100:1 2 cycle in the gas tank. Or diesel fuel mixed with 87oct gas. But really flush it first! You don't want to varnish up your rings!
Just got the gas tank totally refurbished and have a new master cyl for the brakes. It turns out that enging only had about 400miles on it when I pulled the valve covers off it was obvious. Now doing a new headliner and floor pans. Yes - that AMSOIL DOT3/4 has to by law be totally compatible but anything this old the brakes need to be flushed as I do it anyway every two years.
I think i will be trying this method tomorrow along with the coil compressor, just cant get it quite compressed enough to put on the the new, thank you very much!
What were you trying to do? HW-8 is only a CW Transceiver. The manual antenna matching unit won't do anything unless you apply a signal to tune for minimal SWR. It's not a passive preselector.
@Sprocket2 actually it is a passive pre-selector. It's not a one way process - when the antenna circuit is tuned to resonance for transmit, it's also tuned for resonance for receive. You simply adjust the antenna tuner for maximum signal on receive and bingo!
Thanx for creating this video. I own 3 corvairs and it is always an adventure keeping them running good - or keeping them running at all :) I learned when I owned VWs to always change the condenser when replacing the points. Amazing how such a small inexpensive part is soooo important.
I just took my 64 Corvair on its first spin in 35 years. My grandpa laughed at me from the sky when I accidentally started in 3rd and flooded it, but it sure was fun anyway.
I always buy my points sets at napa better quality and no plastic on points And fuel I use marvel mystery oil in fuel it helps lubricant everything And Delo 30 oil
Question for you, I see this was a year ago, but hoping you still are around, I'm looking at a 1966 Pontiac GTO Coupe 389 V8 to purchase but the present owner noticed that 2 frost plugs had pushed out. How long of a repair is that, and what is the approximate cost? I am in WA, it is in IN so if I buy it, I would fly out and take possession. I was planning on driving it back but if I have to get those fixed before I drive it back, that could be an issue, depending on how long it takes to perform the repair. It was a frame off restoration which has about 1200 miles on it after restore. Thanks in advance for any answers.
If the block is one with two large ones on either side then the issue is getting the exhaust manifold off to reach one of them or making it easy for both. So that's what you have to do and soak it well with some sort of penetrate (Kroil, etc) because you don't want those bolts to break!! If you have the correct tools to remove stuck plugs, clean and re-cap I'd say 4-6 hours if you are organized..
@@grillsandaxlegrease3578 I'm looking at a GTO on an auction, "You are bidding on a 1966 Pontiac GTO Coupe. 2421767132878. TITLE. This is a fully restored car that has been in storage. There are few miles on the restoration. It was in storage and not climate controlled. Upon removal, the brothers noticed that 2 frost plugs had pushed out." That's from the auction site. The current bid is $10,500, but the live bidding isn't until the 17th. It's about a 7hr drive away. It might end up going above what I can afford, but I'd like to drive it back instead of putting it on a trailer, but may have to do a trailer if it doesn't go up too high. I appreciate the info. I have a 65 impala SS which I still need to finish. Thanks
when you said it was the condenser, remember many years ago, when my Corvair was very hard to start, it was the condenser to blame!!! great video, thank you, thumbs up and a sub from me! mike
I have a pink 1960 I believe a Windsor and I was offered a 1960 imperial for the same $300 either car and I still kicking myself for not getting the imperial the ones that was nice but for some reason one day I decided to not go, and I ended up losing it, of course
Does your 1960 have the horn slots up front? I had a wagon that sat since 1972 and I removed all of the tins, top and bottom. I use a nice drywall saw. and you can clean all the fins better than new. I like your videos, I think I will do one for my van!
I had car number 348 (00769W100348). Lots of unique parts even Clark’s didn’t have back in the late 90’s. Lost that car 20 years ago. Still have a box of random parts that fit only 1960. My car had the first edition parking brake with the little release lever that popped out, seemed much stronger than the other Corvairs I had after that.
My engine ran ok at idle, but very weak power on the road. Checked all the obvious things, like carbs, timing and ignition components. Replaced all fuel filters and check carb bowl fuel levels, all were good. I did a final valve lash due to ticking noise, but it did not go away. I thought it was the fan pulley clicking because the belt jumps. WHILE looking for the noise with a screwdriver to ear at each pully, I eliminated the belt circuit. THE FUEL PUMP WAS NOT LOCKED DOWN, SO IT PUMPED MINIMAL FUEL, problem is gone!
It seems you went around your elbow to find your butt. Points are always the first thing to check. People have a habit of leaving the ignition switch on when the engine is not running and that burns the points. What can be really bad is replacing the points/capacitor only to get a bad capacitor in the kit. The other interesting thing was the choke pull off vacuum leak, which has near no effect on how the engine performs. After watching your video i checked mine and had a bad one, i just plugged the tube. I would like to know more about the diagnostic steps you took such as timing, vacuum at idle at each side, idle adjustment, mixture adjustments and if the plugs now appear normal. There is more conflicting information about these engines than truth. I have 0 vacuum at idle, but it is near normal at 1500 rpm, carbs/gaskets, timing and valve timing appear to be correct. Has anyone else seen anything related to poor engine power with another solution? I have already gone to electronic ignition, so points and capacitors are not considered. Both performed the same with poor power and sputtering.
Very cool. I myself have a '60 700 four-door that I bought from a relative in Minot, ND It was likely a farm car, but was in a better condition than yours. I still haven't gotten it running since I got it last June, but I'm almost there. The body is in excellent condition and some of the paint is still very shiny. The interior is livable. The engine bay was as bad as yours, with a huge mouse nest under the shroud. I'm STILL cleaning that all out. The underside of the car had a lot of mud and gravel from it's rural life. I keep finding more every time I get under there. '60s are underappreciated as Corvairs go.
